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K&N has marked the box that the filter comes in pretty specifically as to wrench use.

As to torquing an oil filter...stop it!
After you have your new filter filled with fresh oil and the O-ring seal coated with a light film of oil,
screw the filter on to the engine until the seal contacts the mounting surface.
then tighten the filter, by hand, an additional 1/2 to 3/4 turn.

Triumph has an entire crew of OCD manual writers who have a specific torque for EVERYTHING!
Note the torque value for the plastic windscreen screws used on my Tiger 1050.

Rex
About 45 years ago I re built 650 Triumph twins without having a torque wrench, never any problems.
 

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I have been in the parts business over 40 years. I have ran K&N Filters for years...Including at least a dozen on my Triumph. I have NEVER had a problem with their product. I have many problems with FRAM. Defects can happen in Anything manufactured. I am sure the "weld" failed from using a wrench to tighten it. Never Ever Ever use a wrench to tighten an oil filter. Hand Tight...means Hand tight. If you tighten the filter with wrench, you get what you deserve. I will no longer buy or sell K&N not because of the quality of the product but their anti competitive pricing policies. Be advised K&N makes lots of Filters under different names...that sell for a lot less then the name brand.
 

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I have been in the parts business over 40 years. I have ran K&N Filters for years...Including at least a dozen on my Triumph. I have NEVER had a problem with their product. I have many problems with FRAM. Defects can happen in Anything manufactured. I am sure the "weld" failed from using a wrench to tighten it. Never Ever Ever use a wrench to tighten an oil filter. Hand Tight...means Hand tight. If you tighten the filter with wrench, you get what you deserve. I will no longer buy or sell K&N not because of the quality of the product but their anti competitive pricing policies. Be advised K&N makes lots of Filters under different names...that sell for a lot less then the name brand.
If one uses a filter that does not have a nut welded on then the chances of the nut weld leaking is ZERO.
 

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If one uses a filter that does not have a nut welded on then the chances of the nut weld leaking is ZERO.
OK...You dont like nuts...dont buy it....oil filters can fail for many reasons.....I have seen them all...from bad o-rings, warped bases, blown out shells, fubar threads, puncture wounds and failed bypass valves. The welds failed because the end user used a wrench.
 

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OK...You dont like nuts...dont buy it....oil filters can fail for many reasons.....I have seen them all...from bad o-rings, warped bases, blown out shells, fubar threads, puncture wounds and failed bypass valves. The welds failed because the end user used a wrench.
Agreed... anything can fail for all sorts of reasons and a loose nut turning a wrench on an unnecessary nut on an oil filter is one of them. In the instance of nuts welded onto oil filters the manufacturer introduced an unnecessary failure point.

Wish I has a penny for every oil filter that has even been changed that didn't have a nut welded on since they went to spin on filters.
 

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OK...You dont like nuts...dont buy it....
That's why I use Mounds filters, not Almond Joy.

I've used K&N products for a long time. More air filters than oil, but I've never seen one of their products with less than excellent build quality, But any company can burp out a problem now and then. Ask some Brits about Honda camshafts.

Speaking of Honda, one of the first upgrade parts I ever bought for a motorcycle was for my 1980 CB650's oil filter housing. The stock nut is tiny and easily stripped. Somebody made a 17mm replacement that is much better. That experience makes me like seeing a nut on the end of a filter, even though I put them on by going hand tight with one hand, then two-handed grunting for another half turn. But I've had to use the screwdriver trick to take a couple of filters off, so again, nut on the end is good.

It's also really easy to imagine some K&N employee taking their bike to the track for the first time, yadda yadda yadda, the execs get convinced that a safety wire mounting point is a good thing. Now, once you've decided that, how are you gonna do it? Weld a tab? A drilled nut is a better option. A tab can get broken off more easily than something broad and flat - that also keeps you from ever having to use the screwdriver removal trick.
 

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That's why I use Mounds filters, not Almond Joy.

I've used K&N products for a long time. More air filters than oil, but I've never seen one of their products with less than excellent build quality, But any company can burp out a problem now and then. Ask some Brits about Honda camshafts.

Speaking of Honda, one of the first upgrade parts I ever bought for a motorcycle was for my 1980 CB650's oil filter housing. The stock nut is tiny and easily stripped. Somebody made a 17mm replacement that is much better. That experience makes me like seeing a nut on the end of a filter, even though I put them on by going hand tight with one hand, then two-handed grunting for another half turn. But I've had to use the screwdriver trick to take a couple of filters off, so again, nut on the end is good.

It's also really easy to imagine some K&N employee taking their bike to the track for the first time, yadda yadda yadda, the execs get convinced that a safety wire mounting point is a good thing. Now, once you've decided that, how are you gonna do it? Weld a tab? A drilled nut is a better option. A tab can get broken off more easily than something broad and flat - that also keeps you from ever having to use the screwdriver removal trick.
All those Japanese oil filter bolts were made of silly putty like their #2 Philips screws.

You can do it like Norton did in the 70's... a tab that runs along the filter then a worm drive clamp, that can be safety wired, to hold the filter. MV Agusta does in pretty much the same way.
 

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They are not #2 Philips [ US ] Cross points - there is the base of the problem. Wrong tool for the job. They are JIS #2 [ Meteric ].
 

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They are not #2 Philips [ US ] Cross points - there is the base of the problem. Wrong tool for the job. They are JIS #2 [ Meteric ].
Excuse my senior moment.. of course JIS #2. In fact, the Kawasaki shop I worked at in the late 60's ordered a case of JIS #2 screwdrivers and JIS #2 hex bits.

The fact remains that all those JIS #2 screws and the oil filter bolts were about a 1 on the Rockwell scale.
 

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My guess is that most riders, when they see a nut, will apply a wrench. If it wasn't meant to be used, then why is it there? Of course the directions from K&N say to ONLY use it for removal, but really, who reads directions to change an oil filter if you've done hundreds of them in your lifetime without any issues. I thought about a one way nut, like tamper proof screws that only allow you to turn them one way, but then people would just use Vise Grips or Channel Locks. It's one of those things that sounds like a good idea, and it would be if executed properly, but in this case the execution/manufacturing is poor. It could be fixed for $ .30 per filter I'm sure, but we live in a world where marketing trumps quality I'm afraid. Caveat Emptor!
 

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Been using K & N Filters on my bikes for 30 yrs so far so good, I like the idea of not having to buy new filters, I have the K & N filter cleaner and recharging filter oil. It cost a little bit up front but the savings are fantastic compared to buying a new replacement one between $75.-&100. It’s easy to clean and recharge a reusable filter like the K & N,s and get your performance and moneys worth.... FTG View attachment 744628
We're talking OIL FILTERS
 

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I have been in the parts business over 40 years. I have ran K&N Filters for years...Including at least a dozen on my Triumph. I have NEVER had a problem with their product. I have many problems with FRAM. Defects can happen in Anything manufactured. I am sure the "weld" failed from using a wrench to tighten it. Never Ever Ever use a wrench to tighten an oil filter. Hand Tight...means Hand tight. If you tighten the filter with wrench, you get what you deserve. I will no longer buy or sell K&N not because of the quality of the product but their anti competitive pricing policies. Be advised K&N makes lots of Filters under different names...that sell for a lot less then the name brand.
My K&N204 failed, I fitted it correctly (tightened by hand) K&N recalled the filter - what is there more to say on the matter? They ----ed up.
 

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Oh man I need to get new prescription glasses soon, holy moly, I highly apologize my bad I didn’t catch that part, thank u scrambler for pointing that out!
I will save the air filter lube topic for another time then , sorry! if the mods want to remove it that would b fine, thnx..FTG
 

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Regardless of all the "I've never had an issue" and "it's your fault for using the bolt" arguments, for a time K&N had an issue with this design where some of their filters leaked used straight out of the box, simply because the spot-welds perforated the shell. Using the 'bolt' on the bottom exacerbated the issue, but it was a blatant construction issue that they have apparently since addressed.
Check the official recall for this filter here: Safety Recall Notice
 

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Oh, and I particularly liked this part of the recall:

If so, please contact K&N immediately at (800) 643-6320 or at [email protected] to make arrangements to obtain a replacement oil filter at no charge, or, at your option, to obtain a refund of the purchase price of your recalled filter (with proof of purchase)
So they will refund you for the filter, but you have to cover the cost of new oil and labour yourself.
 

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Oh man I need to get new prescription glasses soon, holy moly, I highly apologize my bad I didn’t catch that part, thank u scrambler for pointing that out!
I will save the air filter lube topic for another time then , sorry! if the mods want to remove it that would b fine, thnx..FTG
Big 10/4 on K&N air filters... lots of people like them.
Oh, and I particularly liked this part of the recall:



So they will refund you for the filter, but you have to cover the cost of new oil and labour yourself.
And the cost of a new engine or the damage from crashing due to oiling the rear tire?

No nut = no problem... nuff said.
 
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