The first one looks to be the diagnostic port. For plugging in a dealer diagnostic computer or TuneECU cable. The second one may be an alarm bypass connector.

 

So, yes and yes to above.

Stator wires to loom I say cut out the connector as it burns there if the joints degrade. Bare crimps and heatshrink.

No experience with Ricky but both those parts are on top of suspicion list.

 

So, yes and yes to above.

Stator wires to loom I say cut out the connector as it burns there if the joints degrade. Bare crimps and heatshrink.

No experience with Ricky but both those parts are on top of suspicion list.

This is what I was planning, it seems like every component of the charging system on this bike is a liability so I figured it would be best to just bypass whatever I can.

Thanks for confirming the other two, I'm not worried about the alarm, and if he other one is just a standard OBD port, it makes sense to be empty.

 

Ouch that thumb! Good luck, they’re great bikes,

 

Yep. Closed it in my car door a few weeks ago. Expecting the nail to come off any day now. At least it doesn't hurt anymore.

Updates for the electrical issue. I've diagnosed what I believe to be the only problem, which is the stator. I still plan to replace both it and the rectifier together in favor of an upgraded system, though. Check out the carnage- previous owner didn't torque a stator bolt down when replacing it the first time, backed out and shredded its own wires with the shrapnel.

Now.. what's the best way to remove metal shavings from a permanent magnet? I'm assuming I am going to be buying a new rotor too..

 

I always knew cars were dangerous. They bite!

Ooh, stator suicide. Those wires would have put strain on the whole system before it died. Check all upstream wires for burning.

 

Will do, thanks for the warning. Still planning to bypass what parts of the harness I can, doubly so now.

 

Apologies for this having been so long since I replied to the thread, but the bike is (mostly) back together!

I have hit what I feel is one last roadblock to getting it back on the road, and that is a check engine light that I can't seem to find the source for.

When I turn the ignition on, the bike will power up, but I am presented with a P1689 error code when I read the ECU.

The only thing I haven't tried yet is swapping the connectors on the fuel pump, as they are identical connectors. The only electronics that were unplugged during disassembly were the stator, rectifier, and fuel pump. I am 99% certain that the charging system is all connected properly, as the connectors on the rectifier are 2 and 3 pin, and they are matched to the appropriate plug. The stator is also plugged back into the original harness, I have not bypassed anything.

Fuel pump sounds like it primes when the ignition is on, though I suppose it could be running in reverse? Dash lights up and all other controls and lights are also working correctly. Check engine light is illuminated on dash when the bike is on, and when I press the starter, the solenoid will not trigger to spin the starter motor. I have cleared the code and it has not allowed the bike to start.

Does anyone have experience with this code? According to Google, P1689 is a generic engine fault code for a shorted sensor or circuit issue, which doesn't point me in any specific direction.

 

Apologies for this having been so long since I replied to the thread, but the bike is (mostly) back together!

I have hit what I feel is one last roadblock to getting it back on the road, and that is a check engine light that I can't seem to find the source for.

When I turn the ignition on, the bike will power up, but I am presented with a P1689 error code when I read the ECU.

The only thing I haven't tried yet is swapping the connectors on the fuel pump, as they are identical connectors.

So you got a 955? I thought it was a 1050. I guess that because the 1050 doesn't have any return fuel line.
Inverting the fuel lines shouldn't have any major effect.

The only electronics that were unplugged during disassembly were the stator, rectifier, and fuel pump. I am 99% certain that the charging system is all connected properly, as the connectors on the rectifier are 2 and 3 pin, and they are matched to the appropriate plug. The stator is also plugged back into the original harness, I have not bypassed anything.

If the battery is fully charged, even w/ the charging system unplugged from the battery you should be able to start.

Fuel pump sounds like it primes when the ignition is on, though I suppose it could be running in reverse? Dash lights up and all other controls and lights are also working correctly. Check engine light is illuminated on dash when the bike is on, and when I press the starter, the solenoid will not trigger to spin the starter motor. I have cleared the code and it has not allowed the bike to start.

Did you check all the fuses?
For the starter motor to turn you must have the clutch switch working properly (that brings the ground to the solenoid) and the crimp in the left sheath from the left handlebar shouldn't be damaged. If the horn works it should be good.
The side stand switch should be ok as well (the info is provided to the ECU directly).

Does anyone have experience with this code? According to Google, P1689 is a generic engine fault code for a shorted sensor or circuit issue, which doesn't point me in any specific direction.

 

I can't find that code in S3 or sprint 1050 workshop manual.

 

are you sure the code is P1689 ?
I couldn't find it my manual.