It's a savage way to test the product, but apparently this company does this test with all their bars.
None of these issues are related to high speed crashes.I’m not going to be crashing at high speed, these are for slow drops if that happens off road. Rather have to deal with cracked parts than painted parts!
looks good and beefy - waiting for the relocation kit for the oem fogs for visibility in traffic and went for Denali D4 for the beans đź’Ş
I didn’t install the hepco bars - and of course the frame will get damaged if there are no bolts holding it together.None of these issues are related to high speed crashes.
My Hepco bolts broke with no drop/no impact. As are many others experience....including catastrophic frame failure due to bolt breakage.
...and for the beak sub-frame...same thing, simple drops have caused breakage when upper crash bars are mounted underneath the beak..
My thoughts, too.Attaches to upper/front cylinder mount.... ^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Run like hell from using this mount point.
The other elephant in the room is....how much does all that steel tubing/bracketing and hardware weigh?My thoughts, too.
At least they're using a bracket on this product instead of directly mounting the tubular structure there, but after all we've seen do we really want to continue messing with that mounting point?
Also, gotta love these two massive spacers on a huge long bolt on the RH side. Nothing bad has ever happened due to this approach...
That said, between the bracket providing some deflection and the reinforcement of the peg mounts, it's something of an evolution. I can tell you guys that I would never mount this on my bike, though.
Why is there a phone number on the bars? Just gross branding on these imoThough I had not seen any comments regards issues with T-Rex product, I could no longer sleep at night worrying about the upper mount bolts so I swapped out for Akurat products. They have some minor design issues (mainly how the skid plate attaches to it's bracket), but they dont use the forward mount, and they are well made and finished. One pleasant result is a significant reduction in vibration at the grips.
First image is well tested T-Rex kit.
View attachment 806367
View attachment 806368
View attachment 806370
View attachment 806369
I did not understand the problemMy thoughts, too.
At least they're using a bracket on this product instead of directly mounting the tubular structure there, but after all we've seen do we really want to continue messing with that mounting point?
Also, gotta love these two massive spacers on a huge long bolt on the RH side. Nothing bad has ever happened due to this approach...
View attachment 806359
That said, between the bracket providing some deflection and the reinforcement of the peg mounts, it's something of an evolution. I can tell you guys that I would never mount this on my bike, though.
What have you seen that i did not? What other crash bars uses cilinder mount?My thoughts, too.
At least they're using a bracket on this product instead of directly mounting the tubular structure there, but after all we've seen do we really want to continue messing with that mounting point?
Also, gotta love these two massive spacers on a huge long bolt on the RH side. Nothing bad has ever happened due to this approach...
View attachment 806359
That said, between the bracket providing some deflection and the reinforcement of the peg mounts, it's something of an evolution. I can tell you guys that I would never mount this on my bike, though.
A lot of bars use that mount tans I think all of them have give problems breaking frames and or bolts tin the engine casing. I think it is perfectly documented under this thread and there are multiple more talking about the same.What have you seen that i did not? What other crash bars uses cilinder mount?
I droped and damaged the tank and fairingsI’ve dropped my Rally Pro twice now. Once at very slow speed(under 5kph) and once a bit faster (under 15kph). Neither drop damaged the tank but both drops broke the piece of crap hand guards that come stock on the RP. The faster crash also broke the end of my brake lever off at the built in weak spot. I’ve got Bark Busters coming. I will also be installing upper crash bars and replacing the fog lights with Denali’s
After that i think i wil continue with my 1100 atas dctTo add more fun to the discussion...
This from another board. The stock/OEM RP lower engine guard caused a total write off of the bike. I'm going to maintain that crash bars provide a false sense of security....
Quoted the jist of what happened here: "So my bike was written off and I was paid out after it slipped at approx 40-50km/h onto the RHS on a slippery bit of dirt road and the RHS engine protection bar (not the bar, the flat metal bit that bolts to the case), bent inwards and its corner pierced the corner of the engine block. By the time I got back home, my boot was covered in engine oil and it was a write-off. Not how I envisaged the OEM (bars come std with RallyPro) to protect the bike. There was very little other damage.
![]()
ProbablyI have Givi bars on my Rally, the thing that made me choose them over others is they’re mounted to 3 very strong points on the frame. They do use the upper front motor mounts, they just don’t attach directly to the mounts but connect via 2 brackets.
I still wonder why Givi bars for the Tiger 900s don’t have a cross bar bracing 2 sides together. I have checked multiple Givi bars for different bikes and they all have the cross bars, even the one for Tiger 800s have. Maybe they think those 3 points are robust enough or there’re something else making them not want to connect 2 sides?