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T120 Comfort Seat on Street Twin DIY

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21K views 17 replies 12 participants last post by  bigloveben  
#1 ·
Okay, I know it seems a little overkill to have a DIY for a seat swap, but not all the T120 seats fit directly onto the Street Twin so a little modification is required.
The difficulty lies in the fact that the rear of the CS seat pan is a little deeper than that of the stock seat.
The result is that the seat pan comes into contact with the rear fender as you lower the seat, preventing the seat from being able to sit low enough to snap into the seat pin mechanism.

Of course, there have been other very helpful posts here about how to accomplish this task.
Among them is advice from "wbarnier" on how to modify the rear section of the seat pan.
Here is the link to that thread:

http://www.triumphrat.net/water-coo.../water-cooled-twins-talk/754442-street-twin-bench-vs-stock-seat-comparison.html

So I bought the CS and was prepared to follow wbarnier's process but thought I'd try fiddling before doing the surgery to the seat pan.
My first thought was to simply raise the seat pin locking mechanism.
It is easily removed by unscrewing the two torx bolts.
See "SEAT PIN BOLTS"
I then added a couple washers under the mechanism to raise it so that the pin would now lock.
See "SEAT PIN WASHERS"

Surprisingly, it only took about 2mm of washer height to allow the pin to lock. But I wasn't happy with the solution because it felt like the entire seat was now perched on top of the seat mechanism and the rubber pads on the seat pan were not in contact with the frame. The seat didn't feel too unstable, it just didn't seem like the ideal solution.

It then occurred to me that if I could actually lower the fender, I would be able to get the necessary clearance between the CS seat pan and the fender while also allowing the seat pan to be lowered down onto the frame.

The fender is attached to the frame by four torx bolts. These are easily loosened and when they are the fender drops down away from the frame.
So I removed the bolts and then put about 3mm of rubber washers between the frame and the fender. You'll need a washer that has a large enough opening to accommodate not just the width of the bolt, but also the width of the metal fittings through which the bolts slide. Fortunately, the bolts are long enough to allow for the additional height of the washers and still get a solid purchase in the threads. I always use blue Loc-tite on jobs like this for added security.

See "FRONT FENDER WASHERS" and "REAR FENDER WASHERS"

This approach has worked well for me and the fit seems quite solid.
I like the look of the seat much better than the stock seat and I especially like the added height.
 

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#4 ·
So after adding the rubber washers to slightly lower the rear fender, did you then remove the washers from between the locking mechanism and the frame that you had put in earlier? If those are left in, wouldn't the seat still not be touching the frame with its rubber bumpers? Good solution! Triumph ought to simply include some washers with their T120 comfort seat and market it to ST owners too.
 
#5 ·
Good question.
Prior to lowering the fender, and with only the lock pin mechanism spacers in place, I could get the seat pin to lock in if I pressed down firmly on the seat.
While considering your question, I realized that the problem wasn't that the seat was resting on top of the seat pin mechanism. Rather, it was the contact between the seat pan and fender that was forcing the seat to sit higher than it should, preventing the rubber seat pads from resting on the frame. So the pressure on the seat pin mechanism was actually upward pressure rather than downward.

Once I lowered the fender, the seat felt as if it rested naturally on the frame. And the pin, with the washers still in place, locked in with little pressure applied. I left the washers in place.

Hope that helps!
 
#6 · (Edited)
Thanks, got it...sounds like you could remove the washers under the locking mechanism if you wanted to, now that the washers that lowered the fender are installed so that it doesn't interfere with the seat pan. Very good simple solution vs cutting the seat pan to clear the fender as someone else had done.

Why on earth there is this difference between the ST and the T120, I guess only Triumph could understand (or explain). Triumph's marketing dept could broaden their fitment of the comfort seat to other bikes if they understood this. They probably don't know this! Good noodling and discovery. Thanks for clarifying. Cheers!
 
#10 ·
I have done this TWICE now on my Street Scrambler using a Corbin Gunfighter (for the T120) and now a T120 Black factory brown seat. No modding to the seat needed. Just simply lower the rear half of the fender by about 1/4" and that's all you need to do. nothing funny with the latch other than relocating it if you have a Street Scrambler like me. No permanent hacking needed to the seats. I used rubber washers
 
#12 ·
I've fitted a t120 comfort seat to my ST. Because I have a rack fitted I had to modify the seat pan a little which wasn't too hard. The seat is so much better than standard. I did find the bars a bit low after the mod, so I added some 1inch risers I bought through a facebook page, and it's bloody awesome now. Throw in the Gazi shocks and it's very nice.
 
#15 ·
Well the seat came today and found I needed 3 washers on each side on the rear fender bolts, to lower it even a little more. Was over .250" for sure, probably closer to .500" for me to get it to latch. A few things I notice: 1.) comfort greatly improved. The added padding or gel or whatever it is definitely is felt over the very hard stock seat. 2.) the increase in height does make my legs feel slightly less cramped. Not a lot, but enough to notice. A little less of an angle for the feet to raise to shift, that's nice. 3.) definitely feels like you're riding more on top of the bike, as I think others have mentioned. This will probably become second nature, but it's pretty noticeable. 4.) definitely more pressure on the wrists due to the more forward lean due to the added height. Not uncomfortable yet, but have only had it out for two 20 min rides...time will tell. Otherwise pretty happy with my $160 purchase (used). However, was hoping the white trim was thread so I could stain it black as I def liked the all black appearance of the stock seat on the cranberry red. With a black tank I think the white trim breaks it up nicely, but on the red it just looks a little out of place.
 
#17 ·
I wasn't aware that Triumph is now using key locks for their seats. My Ducati GT1000 has the same exact lock latch as Triumph's and the key mechanism has given me nothing but fits from day one. The key locks would jam making it nearly impossible to turn the key. I would have to fish around under the tail of the seat with a spring removal tool (T-handle with fish hook end) to grab the cable lever to pop the latch.

I've tried all forms of lubricants. I've adjust the cable to have the post latch just barely grabbing the post. Nothing has worked reliably.

/M

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