Okay, I know it seems a little overkill to have a DIY for a seat swap, but not all the T120 seats fit directly onto the Street Twin so a little modification is required.
The difficulty lies in the fact that the rear of the CS seat pan is a little deeper than that of the stock seat.
The result is that the seat pan comes into contact with the rear fender as you lower the seat, preventing the seat from being able to sit low enough to snap into the seat pin mechanism.
Of course, there have been other very helpful posts here about how to accomplish this task.
Among them is advice from "wbarnier" on how to modify the rear section of the seat pan.
Here is the link to that thread:
http://www.triumphrat.net/water-coo.../water-cooled-twins-talk/754442-street-twin-bench-vs-stock-seat-comparison.html
So I bought the CS and was prepared to follow wbarnier's process but thought I'd try fiddling before doing the surgery to the seat pan.
My first thought was to simply raise the seat pin locking mechanism.
It is easily removed by unscrewing the two torx bolts.
See "SEAT PIN BOLTS"
I then added a couple washers under the mechanism to raise it so that the pin would now lock.
See "SEAT PIN WASHERS"
Surprisingly, it only took about 2mm of washer height to allow the pin to lock. But I wasn't happy with the solution because it felt like the entire seat was now perched on top of the seat mechanism and the rubber pads on the seat pan were not in contact with the frame. The seat didn't feel too unstable, it just didn't seem like the ideal solution.
It then occurred to me that if I could actually lower the fender, I would be able to get the necessary clearance between the CS seat pan and the fender while also allowing the seat pan to be lowered down onto the frame.
The fender is attached to the frame by four torx bolts. These are easily loosened and when they are the fender drops down away from the frame.
So I removed the bolts and then put about 3mm of rubber washers between the frame and the fender. You'll need a washer that has a large enough opening to accommodate not just the width of the bolt, but also the width of the metal fittings through which the bolts slide. Fortunately, the bolts are long enough to allow for the additional height of the washers and still get a solid purchase in the threads. I always use blue Loc-tite on jobs like this for added security.
See "FRONT FENDER WASHERS" and "REAR FENDER WASHERS"
This approach has worked well for me and the fit seems quite solid.
I like the look of the seat much better than the stock seat and I especially like the added height.
The difficulty lies in the fact that the rear of the CS seat pan is a little deeper than that of the stock seat.
The result is that the seat pan comes into contact with the rear fender as you lower the seat, preventing the seat from being able to sit low enough to snap into the seat pin mechanism.
Of course, there have been other very helpful posts here about how to accomplish this task.
Among them is advice from "wbarnier" on how to modify the rear section of the seat pan.
Here is the link to that thread:
http://www.triumphrat.net/water-coo.../water-cooled-twins-talk/754442-street-twin-bench-vs-stock-seat-comparison.html
So I bought the CS and was prepared to follow wbarnier's process but thought I'd try fiddling before doing the surgery to the seat pan.
My first thought was to simply raise the seat pin locking mechanism.
It is easily removed by unscrewing the two torx bolts.
See "SEAT PIN BOLTS"
I then added a couple washers under the mechanism to raise it so that the pin would now lock.
See "SEAT PIN WASHERS"
Surprisingly, it only took about 2mm of washer height to allow the pin to lock. But I wasn't happy with the solution because it felt like the entire seat was now perched on top of the seat mechanism and the rubber pads on the seat pan were not in contact with the frame. The seat didn't feel too unstable, it just didn't seem like the ideal solution.
It then occurred to me that if I could actually lower the fender, I would be able to get the necessary clearance between the CS seat pan and the fender while also allowing the seat pan to be lowered down onto the frame.
The fender is attached to the frame by four torx bolts. These are easily loosened and when they are the fender drops down away from the frame.
So I removed the bolts and then put about 3mm of rubber washers between the frame and the fender. You'll need a washer that has a large enough opening to accommodate not just the width of the bolt, but also the width of the metal fittings through which the bolts slide. Fortunately, the bolts are long enough to allow for the additional height of the washers and still get a solid purchase in the threads. I always use blue Loc-tite on jobs like this for added security.
See "FRONT FENDER WASHERS" and "REAR FENDER WASHERS"
This approach has worked well for me and the fit seems quite solid.
I like the look of the seat much better than the stock seat and I especially like the added height.