[NinjaRAT]

Thanks OnD, I'm honored. Admittedly, write-ups like Champ's (and yours) makes learning a whole lot easier, but I learn by doing and not everything can be expressed in a single posting. Somethings take experience and learning the hard way, of which I find too easily.

Also, working in IT, it drives me nuts when some colleagues throw around the "do it for me" attitude. I generally respond with a http://lmgtfy.com/ link (check it out...great site).

But seriously, I have to admit a little part of my motivation for learning valve adjustment was financial, but its pretty awesome to be able to say I did my own valve inspection/adjust.

 

[oldndumb]

Well, not only did you boost your self esteem but you probably did a better job than a dealer would. I'm not saying they would do a bad job, just that they do not have the luxury of taking their time to get everything as close to perfect as you do.

And Champ's write ups are the Gold Standard. I've not seen any as good in any forum. In fact, the next time I think about writing one, I plan on paying Champ to do it for me. I would not be surprised if he doesn't have another one being processed for issue.

 

[DaveM]

Yes OND is correct Champ goes to great lengths to help us all here with his excellent fech threads and posts.

Many thanks Champ

DaveM

 

[TimidTrail]

Thanks for the write up Champ--very helpful.

I have two questions I hope you can help with:

1) Cam shaft sprocket alignment: In your photo the arrows are not exactly parallel with the top of the cylinder head, they were pointed up slightly. Mine were also like that. Now when I go to reinstall my camshafts, will it be easy to make sure the arrows are in the exact same orientation as when I took them off? After I took my cam shafts out and laid everything on the table I thought my T1 mark wasn't perfect so I rotated my back wheel just a hair to make the alignment marks seem perfect.
I need to wait a bit for my shims to arrive so I'm just trying to think head.
2) when you measured the shim with your micrometer was the thickness off from what was printed on the shim?

Thanks!

 

[champ87]

Cam shaft sprocket alignment: In your photo the arrows are not exactly parallel with the top of the cylinder head, they were pointed up slightly. Mine were also like that. Now when I go to reinstall my camshafts, will it be easy to make sure the arrows are in the exact same orientation as when I took them off? After I took my cam shafts out and laid everything on the table I thought my T1 mark wasn't perfect so I rotated my back wheel just a hair to make the alignment marks seem perfect.
I need to wait a bit for my shims to arrive so I'm just trying to think head.

The first time I did valve adjustment I put it back together as shown in the photo - that's the way it came apart. However, it doesn't look right to me so over winter I re-aligned the cams as described in the manual. With the T1 crank mark aligned with the pointer the cam timing marks should be in line and parallel to the gasket surface. I was told that the difference should be noticeable - particularly at the top end. I didn't notice a big difference but it's hard to say because I made other changes to the bike.

when you measured the shim with your micrometer was the thickness off from what was printed on the shim?

If you don't have a micrometer then skip that part. The shims were pretty close to the marked sizes. There really was no need for me to measure them - but I didn't know that until I'd measured them to find out I didn't have to (uh!). Measuring shims was a personal preference and I'd bet the dealers don't do it.

 

[TimidTrail]

Congrats Yeemartin!


Re the cam chain, it's only the clutch cover that needs to come off to see the lower cam gear and check the timing marks (if you're concerned that the timing may have shifted - it absolutely musn't before reassembly!). The clutch cover is relatively simple on the 955's compared to 1050's, but will usually require a new gasket.

The manuals usually tell you to drop the oil to remove the clutch cover, but you don't really need to, only a bit of oil is lost. And if you put the bike on it's side-stand, you won't lose any. I mention this because is probably best to open it up if you have any doubts about timing etc, you'll have greater peace of mind in the end.


!

If the chain did come off lower gear, would it be neccessary to remove clutch cover to look at it? Or, from the way I see it, as long as the T1 mark and the arrows on the camshafts are in their proper orientation then you're good. My chain may have come off the lower gear because I failed to use wedge at the tensioner.

 

[champ87]

If the chain did come off lower gear, would it be neccessary to remove clutch cover to look at it? Or, from the way I see it, as long as the T1 mark and the arrows on the camshafts are in their proper orientation then you're good. My chain may have come off the lower gear because I failed to use wedge at the tensioner.

If the chain does come off the lower gear it can be re-engaged without removing the clutch cover. Working from above simply lift the chain slowly while moving it back-and-forth slightly until it re-engages with the lower gear. I don't know if it can be done with the cams in place - I would guess that you'd need at least one cam removed to have sufficient slack in the chain. However, if it came off with the cams in place then it shold go back on as long as it doesn't get snagged anywhere.

 

[TimidTrail]

If the chain does come off the lower gear it can be re-engaged without removing the clutch cover. Working from above simply lift the chain slowly while moving it back-and-forth slightly until it re-engages with the lower gear. I don't know if it can be done with the cams in place - I would guess that you'd need at least one cam removed to have sufficient slack in the chain. However, if it came off with the cams in place then it shold go back on as long as it doesn't get snagged anywhere.

Thanks Champ,

So there would not be a reason to remove the clutch cover and check timing marks on lower cam gear? I wonder what Markovich was referring to..

 

[champ87]

Thanks Champ,

So there would not be a reason to remove the clutch cover and check timing marks on lower cam gear?

No, you only need to remove the inspection cover to align the T1 mark to check/set cam timing using the marks on the cam sprockets. I think Markovich was referring to a 955i

 

[champ87]

A simple check

Last week I checked my valve clearances again. Before pulling the plugs and removing the cam cover I took a peek down the spark plug wells. It was almost a subconscious action – but I’m very glad that I often do things like that out of habit. Around the plug for #1 cylinder I noticed a slight trace of oil. It was nothing serious but oil shouldn’t be there so couldn’t be ignored. The other 2 plug recesses were clean and dry.

From closer inspection the trace of oil appeared to be coming from the joint where the cam cover seals against the cam ladder – or not quite sealing in this case. After removing the cam cover I looked at the 3 round seals that sit on the cam ladder to seal around the spark plug wells (see photo). I couldn’t see any damage but the seals felt quite hard and not as flexible as I thought a seal should be. Luckily my local dealer operates a system where he keeps stuff in stock (what!) so replacements were immediately available. It was difficult to relate the price ($12 each) with the actual objects but the new seals are much more pliable so that reinforced my decision to replace. While I was there I also took the opportunity to buy 6 new cam cover seals since the sealing lips on those were looking a bit shabby and waiting for oil leaks is a poor method for judging service life.

I’ve don’t remember seeing any posts about this before so it’s obviously not a common issue. I’ve posted it here though because it is so easy to check while the cam cover is being removed. Include a quick look down the spark plug wells and inspection of those seals as part of the valve checking procedure and it could help avoid problems. After the cam cover is replaced, checking seals and gaskets should be done as a matter of course – see item 20 of Post #4: Putting It Back Together.

 

[John R]

Thanks champ for a brilliant write up I'll be checking my valve clearances soon. Am I the only one who hit the link in the first part of the post. I nearly fell off the chair giggling. Small things for small minds as they say. For the curious...

http://disney.go.com/characters/#/characters/classics/mickeyandfriends/

 

[mad8vskillz]

any thoguhts on rotating the engine via the wheel-chain-trans rather than turning the crankshaft? Might save a few minutes of disassembly/reassembly?

 

[champ87]

any thoguhts on rotating the engine via the wheel-chain-trans rather than turning the crankshaft? Might save a few minutes of disassembly/reassembly?

That's how I've done it with previous bikes and is probably how I would do it with a 955 engine which, as I understand it, doesn't have the little inspection cover anyway.

For the 1050 it's hardly any effort to remove that inspection cover, it allows more precise rotation and also you're right next to the engine so you get a much better view of the camshaft lobes as you rotate. If the valves need adjustment then you have to remove that inspection cover anyway to see the T1 alignment mark.

 

[mad8vskillz]

That's how I've done it with previous bikes and is probably how I would do it with a 955 engine which, as I understand it, doesn't have the little inspection cover anyway.

For the 1050 it's hardly any effort to remove that inspection cover, it allows more precise rotation and also you're right next to the engine so you get a much better view of the camshaft lobes as you rotate. If the valves need adjustment then you have to remove that inspection cover anyway to see the T1 alignment mark.

cool, thank you for the input. i'll probably be doing the check soon, so i'm trying to gather info

 

[XL1200R]

So I finally got around to doing my first valve check. I've got it as apart as it needs to be... I have 5 out of spec, all on the loose side, so the cams came out tonight. 1 exhaust and 4 intake... I'm not thrilled about this - seems everyone thinks these clearances should only get tighter with wear, which leads me to believe they were at least this loose when it left the factory.

Some notes so far:
-If you're willing to take the chance, you can use an inspection mirror to look at the arrows on the cam sprockets without removing the side fairing. I decided to take it off anyway as I wanted to be sure the crank didn't move at any point for any reason. You can still use the mirror if you don't want to remove the relay bank.

-The cam cover was a b**** to get off on mine. Removing was probably the most challenging and frustrating part of the job so far.

I've probably got a total of 3-4 hours into this job so far, and that includes dilly dallying, messing with my phone, fighting the oil filter off, and figuring out how to remove the side fairing for the first time. I do all of my own maintenance on everything, but I'd even say that anyone who's willing to try the job could get it done in a weekend no problem.

 

[jbird231]

Awesome write up. This will be very helpful when I check mine next weekend

 

[merlot]

Can anyone tell me where to purchase the copper sealing washer for the tensioner center bolt? The manual specifies to replace it, but I can not find it anywhere! It was not included in my service kit either - just the tensioner holder gasket was there. Thanks.

 

[champ87]

Can anyone tell me where to purchase the copper sealing washer for the tensioner center bolt? The manual specifies to replace it, but I can not find it anywhere! It was not included in my service kit either - just the tensioner holder gasket was there. Thanks.

Most times you can get away with re-using the copper washer. As a precaution you could anneal it by heating it up and letting cool before re-use. Alternatively, you could get one from an auto parts store. Autozone have small packs containing a selection of different size copper washers.

 

[Clegg]

Is there any issue using 7.5mm shims instead of 9.5mm? my triumph dealer sold me 7.5mm it seems when I put them in. Just wanted to check to see if this is a common deal or if I need to find the 9.5mm?

 

[Clegg]

Disregard that question, I just ordered the proper shims. Now I am really questioning the quality of service the local Triumph dealer does if they don't carry the right shims for customer bikes! (I got these from the service dept since the parts dept was out).