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955 Sprint ST headlights

16K views 27 replies 13 participants last post by  bwal74  
#1 ·
I have done a lot of reading about headlights on this site, and there's a lot of good discussion (much of it concerning the 1050, which is very different from the 955), but no definitive answers, so I thought I would contribute some thoughts.

A fast-ish night ride in poor conditions a few nights ago led me to resolve to do something about the lights. 98% of the time, average to acceptable; 2% of the time frighteningly poor. The beam pattern as the bike came to me (9 years old, 3 owners) was as follows:

Dipped beam - good side-to-side spread, poor range but good enough for moderate riding with other vehicles about. Huge dark hole in the middle of the beam, right in front of the bike. Like someone with a gap in their front teeth.

Main beam - nice white cone, but hits the road 50ft in front of the bike and too narrow. As soon as the road gets curvy, main beam disappears and dipped beam is actually the better of the two. Any significant corner has you riding into a black space.

The dipped pattern suggests to me that the beams are set too far apart and don't overlap. The main beam suggests the opposite - too much overlap. My plan of action is to get the beam pattern as perfect as it can be with the original lights before I consider expensive upgrades. That way I will know I am not wasting my money.

I took off the cockpit fairing (mirrors, infill panels, 2 screen screws, 10 allen bolts) first. I had already successfully changed a bulb without taking it off, but the adjusters are just too inaccessible for my big hands, so off it came. I lined the bike up about 20 ft from my garage door as the light started to fade. I put some permanent marker spots level with the bulb tips and marked a line about 3" below this. (If you haven't done this before, there is an excellent how-to here).

What I found was that the LH beam was about right, perhaps a little low, but the 'flick' up to the left (we ride on the left here) was in the right place. However, I could not see any beam from the RH lamp, even when I covered the LH with some cloth. And yet it looked quite bright to the eyes ... Then I looked again and realised that the RH dipped beam was set so low it didn't even hit the garage door. It was lighting up the ground. I adjusted it so that it was level with the LH beam, and moved both of them left and right, but I could not replicate the 'black hole' in the middle that is so obvious on the road. So I left the horizontal adjustment pretty much as it was.

All went back together the next morning (don't forget to reconnect the indicators and pilot lamp) and the following day I tested it on the way into work. It is much, much better. The dipped beam is a solid mass of white with a good cut-off, right where it needs to be, although there is still a slight dark spot in the middle. I thought I might have set them a little too high, but nobody flashed me, so perhaps it's OK. The main beam is also quite good in terms of distance, now that it is pointing where it should be, but it is still far too narrow.

It seems to me that the problem here is not light intensity but the pattern of the lenses. My ST1300 had the same set-up (2 x H4) but the lights were stunningly good, as good as my car's, so it's not the power that is lacking. This leads me to think that increasing the light output of the bulbs isn't a solution, as you will only get a brighter version of an imperfect pattern. Perhaps HIDs throw the light differently - I don't know. But I suspect that the perfect solution for me will probably be very precise alignment of the existing set-up, maybe replace the bulbs with high-efficiency alternatives (those that are sold as '+50%', '+80%' and so on) and two additional spots to the sides to light up the areas either side of the cone of main beam. Dipped beam is now acceptable for me, it's only main beam that I need to improve. I'm not keen on adding ugly additions to a very sleek bike (if I wanted that I would have bought a BMW), so something very small, discreet and powerful will be what I am looking for, perhaps mounted below the indicators or the mirrors.

Any other thoughts very welcome.
 
#2 ·
If you find some sleek little lights that are bright, let me know. I'll spend a little time looking at the alignment of my lights soon. Mine are pretty good, but the low beams, or as you say the dipped beams, (my new favorite description) seem too low and the highs seem to weak, or too high. Thanks!
 
#4 ·
Main/dip is standard terminology in the UK - I can't claim the terms as mine :) I rode to work in fog this morning, when you can see the beam patterns very clearly. Left dip is much brighter than the right-hand, and the dark spot between them is still there. That's either the RH lens diffusing the beam more, or an issue with voltage drop. Main beam is pretty good in a straight line, but poor to the sides. More work to be done!

or small spots where the indicators go, then integrated indicators in the mirrors...
That is not a bad idea. Not bad at all ...
 
#8 ·
Just use the mirrors from the 1050 Sprint ST, it has integrated turn signals. Probably has matching connectors too. Bolt on and plug in.

I hated the lights on my 2001 955 Sprint ST until I put a DDM Tuning HID Hi/Lo kit in. Best thing I ever did. I went with the 35 watt kit because the reflectors are plastic and housing is so small. If it had lights the size of my 97 VFR750, I would have gone for the 55 watt setup. But I'm perfectly happy with the 35 watts in each.
 
#12 ·
Picking up on this old thread as I've run into the scary night driving scenario on my '02 Sprint RS. Those of you who have made modifications, what do you think now several years later? Is light adjustment sufficient, or going for new bulbs, even new systems (Nightbreakers, eg) the ultimate answer?
 
#13 ·
Night Breakers are just bulbs; they're what I'm running these days. They seem fine to me, but I never really had a problem with the lights.

Cheers,
-Kit
 
#16 ·
... Also, I would like to upgrade the light system wiring (I am thinking of doing the whole loom).....
http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/120338-headlight-performance-improvement.html

This is my Speed Triple however the wiring scheme is virtually the same on the Sprint of that generation - details in the thread above.
This image below shows the composite before/after for improved wiring plus better bulbs (& those were 'only' +80 bulbs - you can now get +130 with Philips Xtreme Vision; night breaker unlimited are +110)

Image
 
#15 ·
I installed different bulbs but don't remember what they are, maybe Sylvania night breakers? Anyway the big improvement in my headlamps was spending 3 different evenings properly adjusting them.
 
#17 ·
Thanks for chiming in folks. Looks like the best place to start (cheapest at least) is with adjustment; then the bulbs; the wiring loom may be above my pay grade, though.
 
#21 ·
I realize yellow bulbs will not give full lumen output, and I am okay with that. I still have the other headlight.

No one around here worries about running a higher wattage bulb, from a legal standpoint. As far as "illegal", our state statutes do not say anything about the wattage of bulbs and lots of BMW riders have ran 80/100 for years.
 
#20 ·
Definitely adjustment. I had read of problems with the headlights and my first night ride was nerve wracking with the lack of lighting. Found out my headlights were turned almost fully down. Adjusted the vertical screws and man, what a difference! I can easily get in trouble with a radar gun before over riding my lights now. I still have stock lights on my 01 st955 and see no need to mod. YMMV of course.
 
#22 ·
What's your goal here? Lumens are a measure of light and that's what you use to see; watts are a measure of heat and not directly related to light output. If you want better lighting, you want more lumens.

If you really want yellow, well, look for the most lumens you can get from yellow bulbs.

Headlight bulbs are federally regulated. I don't have the patience to wade through the actual regulation, but my understanding is that somewhere in FMVSS 108 it says your DOT spec headlight assembly no longer meets DOT spec if you've upped the wattage of the bulbs.

All legal issues aside, BMW riders have been melting their headlight wiring with 80/100 bulbs for years, too. The headlight assembly in the 955s does not run cool with standard bulbs; I would not recommend pushing it with higher wattages.

Cheers,
-Kit
 
#23 ·
What's your goal here? Lumens are a measure of light and that's what you use to see; watts are a measure of heat and not directly related to light output. If you want better lighting, you want more lumens.

If you really want yellow, well, look for the most lumens you can get from yellow bulbs.
Yes, I agree. I was just wondering for those that have used them, where did you get them?


Headlight bulbs are federally regulated. I don't have the patience to wade through the actual regulation, but my understanding is that somewhere in FMVSS 108 it says your DOT spec headlight assembly no longer meets DOT spec if you've upped the wattage of the bulbs.
I am not worried about the FED. They do not inspect my bikes, neither does the state. They are the same entity that mandates those cheesy reflectors that riders remove.

All legal issues aside, BMW riders have been melting their headlight wiring with 80/100 bulbs for years, too.
Not the smart ones. They add relays and heavy gauge wiring direct from the battery.


The headlight assembly in the 955s does not run cool with standard bulbs; I would not recommend pushing it with higher wattages.

Thanks, that is good to know.
 
#25 ·
Chewing the fat here ... looking at the light pattern of those LEDs, the do appear to be much brighter in the middle, but the perimeter is about the same. My difficulty with the lights, as some have said, is not being able to see into a corner, maybe your higher intensity lights would help that, but direction adjustment would still be good.

Do the LEDs have a lighter load on the battery? Easier on the wiring too?

Best lights I've seen were on a gen 6 VFR. Man, those are fantastic lights!
 
#26 ·
Hi,

I fitted the LED lights yesterday. The fitted ok, but I had to leave out the rubber boots because I think the LEDs may have overheated. There's a internal fan and a rather big heatsink on the body but covering it up with rubber might not be a great idea.

On the road the lights work really well. The light isn't projected forward as much as I hoped but the light spread is about the same as a small car's. I didn't adjust the lights in the housing, it's something I'll have to in the future. The high beam is much better than the standard/low beam but still usable. But overall I'm pretty happy with the result. I might had spot lights next.

Ben
 
#27 ·
Hi,

I fitted the LED lights yesterday. The fitted ok, but I had to leave out the rubber boots because I think the LEDs may have overheated. There's a internal fan and a rather big heatsink on the body but covering it up with rubber might not be a great idea.
Ben
Interesting, I thought one advantage of the LEDs was less energy lost to heat, so more energy efficient. I guess the LEDs themselves are cool but the transformer (regulator? converter? I'm no engineer, as you can see.) needed heats up?
 
#28 ·
In regards to the heating up issue. The actual body of the led has a (what I think) a big heat sink and a internal fan.

We fired up one light whilst holding it to see if it actually heated up much, we only did it for about a minute and it did heat up - not that much though.

The rubber boot completely covered the heat sink so we decided to err on the side of caution and leave them off.

Time will tell if its a good idea.

Ben.