[qwandree]

031044 is the tune number for North American street triple 765RS for 2020+ models. That number does not change with updates. The 2020-9 is the version of the triumph diag software that contains tune files for all models. 2020-9 just means it was released in september 2020. The tech working on your bike needs to have logged into the triumph website and downloaded the latest diag software. The latest 031044 is revision 4, but I don't think the diag software actually tells you that, I found out from using the tuneECU app.

What a crap system. In any case I do have tune ecu. How can I determine the current update number(s) through that?

 

[dementedbrave]

If you have the tuneECU android app and a compatible bluetooth obd connector, you can connect to the bike's ecu and under information it will tell you the revision number.

 

[Tucka]

1000 kilometres and no stall issue , yet. I love this bike so I'm hoping I don't have any problems , I now have 10500 kilometres .

 

[zim32]

Just went for a ride this morning and much to my dismay the RS stalled TWICE...once on a 5-4 downshift and then on a 4-3 downshift (using the clutch).
I had the latest update as previously referred to by "dementedbrave" and all was well for approx. 200 miles...then this. I'm done...I have zero confidence when I get on this bike.
Having 2 stalls at 50+ mph within minutes has left me with no confidence in this bike and is a major safety issue. Was lucky no one was behind me.
Unacceptable...after three trips to the dealer for same safety issue. Sending the bike back to the dealer. I'm done

 

[daktulos]

Having 2 stalls at 50+ mph within minutes has left me with no confidence in this bike and is a major safety issue. Was lucky no one was behind me.

Out of interest, why is it a major safety issue for you? I've had two stalls, but as soon as I release the clutch it smoothly bump-starts. Clearly, it's not good, but seems easy to handle (and much better than a stall when up-shifting).

 

[424246]

You downshift to pass someone on a narrow two-lane road and the bike stalls just as you initiate the pass? Color my skivvies brown...💩

 

[daktulos]

You downshift to pass someone on a narrow two-lane road and the bike stalls just as you initiate the pass? Color my skivvies brown...💩

OK, I see - apologies, I thought the problem was only with zero throttle input. It's happening under acceleration, too?

 

[424246]

I have a 2019 R and thus don’t have the stalling problem, I was just pointing out a scenario where a stall could be real stressful.

 

[zim32]

1000 kilometres and no stall issue , yet. I love this bike so I'm hoping I don't have any problems , I now have 10500 kilometres .

Are you using the clutch to downshift or just relying on clutchless downshifts via the quickshifter?

 

[Tucka]

Out of interest, why is it a major safety issue for you? I've had two stalls, but as soon as I release the clutch it smoothly bump-starts. Clearly, it's not good, but seems easy to handle (and much better than a stall when up-shifting).

The safety issue is when you have some idiot close behind you and the bike suddenly stalls and you get rear ended. Or for me the bike has stalled going through a bend , which isn't that great either.

 

[Tucka]

Are you using the clutch to downshift or just relying on clutchless downshifts via the quickshifter?

The bike stalls , when just travelling at speed , say 80 ks . A guy on YouTube has filmed exactly what happens to me. But as I've mentioned the bike has been good since the service update.

 

[steved765]

Hey guys, I have a 2020 street triple 765rs and have had the engine cut out three times now. The first time was scary as I was in a round about and the other times was when i was in a eighty zone. I'm thinking if I take it to the dealer , they're not going to find anything , but I will get it checked as it's getting dangerous now. Has anyone had this issue.

I purchased a 2020 street triple R about a month ago. During the 600 mile break in it stalled 4 times always decelerating. It actually stalled right when I pulled up to the dealership for the 600 mile break in service. I told them about it and they said they would check it out and contact Triumph as well.

When the service was complete they told me that their was a new ECU update that they downloaded hopefully it would solve this. I now have 1300 miles on the bike and it hasn't done that since.

I wanted to let you know that as of November 5th when I had the service their is a new ECU update that is supposed to fix this.

Knock on wood so far it seems to have done the trick maybe it will help your issues as well.

 

[relaxnroll]

Hi, to all who have the "2020-9" (or newer, if that exists) version installed:

• How many km or miles since you got the update?
• Has your bike stalled again after the update, yes/no? If yes, how often?

Any input is appreciated, thanks

 

[steved765]

Hi, to all who have the "2020-9" (or newer, if that exists) version installed:

• How many km or miles since you got the update?
• Has your bike stalled again after the update, yes/no? If yes, how often?

Any input is appreciated, thanks

I had the update done when I had the first service at 600 miles. I now have 2500 miles on the bike with no stalling issues. Before the update the bike had stalled about 4 times in the first 600 miles.

 

[nigelpm]

About 2000 km since the update with no stalling. It had stalled twice prior.

Instead I can feel the bike is about to stall when the clutch is pulled in at slow speed low gear. But then it catches itself and the revs come up a little bit on their own.

 

[relaxnroll]

Instead I can feel the bike is about to stall when the clutch is pulled in at slow speed low gear. But then it catches itself and the revs come up a little bit on their own.

Good to hear, that it basically works, but it doesn't sound like the fix is perfect yet. Not sure, how much of an issue this "almost stalling" still feels like, or if it might even still fully stall under rarer conditions?

So as seen in the ECU tables in post #75, the values for 0 throttle input between 2400 and 5000 rpm were increased.

Do you feel, that increasing those values a bit more might completely resolve the "almost stalling"?

 

[xorbe]

My Z4 (car!) used to do exactly that, if I pressed the clutch at just the right moment while coasting, it would threaten to stall at like 400 rpms but recover. It never did stall, but it also was 3L and 6 cylinders.

My Yamaha R3 used to stall all the time (sold it) ... it was just too damn lean from the factory, and a tiny engine, no rotational intertia, and then they cut the fuel on decel, and bam the engine just mechanically stalls without enough fuel.

Kawasaki had to disable dfco on the Ninja 300 to cure stalling engines.

My '18 Ninja 650 coughs on decel and if I pull the clutch and it coughs, sometimes it'll stall.

My '18 Street 765 RS (sold it) stalled once when I pulled the clutch while coasting to a stop light around 800 on the odo, but only once in 6000 miles.

Zack's "daily ride" review of the new Ducati Streetfighter V4 ... it died on camera when he touched the throttle while the bike was parked and idling, same thing my Yamaha did.

My hunch is that these low rotational inertia engines do not appreciate dfco (dynamic fuel cut off) and should really have higher rpms to idle reliably, and are leaned out with ZERO tolerance to meet emissions. Probably the only solution is pc-v or something similar to rework afr manually.

With my Yamaha R3, because it was so bad, what I did was turn off the idle circuit, and set idle with the main butterfly, and also bumped the idle up from 1000 to 1400. WOW what a difference for low speed corners around town, so smooth engine response.

 

[relaxnroll]

if I pressed the clutch at just the right moment while coasting, it would threaten to stall at like 400 rpms but recover.

I believe there's a slight but probably significant difference here: In the cases mentioned on this thread, the bikes stalled, when the clutch was engaged (i.e. the lever not pulled in). That's quite a lot more dangerous, although even stalling while the clutch is disengaged can cause you big trouble when you're approaching an uphill hairpin turn on a bike...

(By the way, and off topic, as you mention BMW's inline 6, I'm curious which exact engine is it? I must say, that my two old BMW inline 6s (M54B30 and N52B25) always return to their usual ca 650 rpm very smoothly, although they do already have electronic throttles)

 

[xorbe]

I believe there's a slight but probably significant difference here: In the cases mentioned on this thread, the bikes stalled, when the clutch was engaged (i.e. the lever not pulled in).

Okay wow I missed that point entirely.

(By the way, and off topic, as you mention BMW's inline 6, I'm curious which exact engine is it? I must say, that my two old BMW inline 6s (M54B30 and N52B25) always return to their usual ca 650 rpm very smoothly, although they do already have electronic throttles)

'07 Z4 3.0 Si convertible with the N52 engine. Wonderful car, brilliant engine, but I sent it on to another enthusiast last year, as I simply didn't drive it much at all these days.

 

[nigelpm]

Good to hear, that it basically works, but it doesn't sound like the fix is perfect yet. Not sure, how much of an issue this "almost stalling" still feels like, or if it might even still fully stall under rarer conditions?

So as seen in the ECU tables in post #75, the values for 0 throttle input between 2400 and 5000 rpm were increased.

Do you feel, that increasing those values a bit more might completely resolve the "almost stalling"?

It happens infrequently enough that I’m not worried about it.
if the bike hadn’t stalled a couple of times on me in the past, I possibly wouldn’t even notice it was doing it.