I have not done anything on my front...yet.

But the ZRX shocks I put on the rear of my 2014 made a HUGE difference. Same weight as you, have preload adjusted to 2nd setting and rebound on #2 also.

I plan on doing the front forks possibly later this year.

I also find that moving my weight around really helps the bike to turn, more so than many other bike, but I'm ok with it and feel comfortable doing so. It's what Total Control training teaches you to do anyway. But it does seem to make more of a difference on the Thruxton than on more "modern" suspended bikes.

 

After 8 years I've got the Thruxton suspension pretty sorted. It came with Bitubo WME on the back so that end was sorted but the front end needed sorting.

Put Hyper pro straight rate springs for my weight (90 kg) from memory .92mm/KG and YSS emulators. Set up that works best for me was 2 turn preload on the emulators, 20w Motul fork oil, 35mm static sag (no rider). Also drilled an extra bleed hole in the emulators to help with compliance over ripples.

Dropped the forks 10 mm in the yokes and fitted a pingle steering damper.

Run the tyres (Shinko 712s) at 37 psi rear 32 psi front.

This gives me a refined ride that handles well for my somewhat relaxed riding style.

Only down side with emulators is the occasional clunk over sharp bumps especialy when braking over bumps. Internet wisdom suggests it's caused by the emulator being pushed off it's seat on the damper rod by the compression pressure and making the noise when being pushed back into it's seat on the damper rod.

The rebound does also vairy with temp as the viscosity changes.

If I was doing it again would probably go for one of the cartrige kits. Can be had for about twice the price of the emulators and springs but is more easily adjustable.

 

200lbs , Matris cartridge kit ebay half price Hagon 2810 shocks , but by far the biggest improvement was changing wheel sizes to run far better tyres . 120/70x17 front 160/60x17 rear . Usually used for hunting sports bikes down on twisty roads . I have to say that if the cartridges had not come cheap I might still be running stock forks . Also no need to climb all over the bike to turn .

 

I have Sonic linear springs up front .85 kg. In the back a set of Hagon 2810's. I'm still sorting things out. When you buy your shocks, springs make sure they are set for your weight and riding style.

 

CBR600 F3 cartridge forks w/ single rate springs in front/YSS emulsion shocks in back. About $800 total cost. I scored some used ohlins to put in back...those were nearly the cost of what I had in all the rest combined.

Cheers,

--Rich

 

F3 frankenfork front, Ohlins sp36l in the rear, Dunlop Roadsmart 2s. Works quite well for me.

 

Ohlins 36PL piggybacks on the rear, and a shiny Ohlins FKS208 cartridge kit ordered today for the fronts...(hurrah!)

Until then, just progressive springs up front - which I haven't been super happy with.

Dunlop Road Smart II Tires - 170/60/17 rear & 110/80/18 front on 5/17 and 2.5/18 rims

 

When I owned my '05, I had Racetech springs up front, .92 linear rate with 20W oil. I weigh about what you weigh. I bought a pair of used Gazi shocks from a forum member. I ran Activ bias tires in stock sizing. I can't say that I got the suspension fully dialed in, a bit too stiff up front, but overall good. I think that I could have gone down a bit in front spring rate, but maybe my sag was not quite right. The bike handled fine, with no wobbles at speed that some seem to complain about. Roads here in NJ not exactly race track smooth. I liked to hang a bit off the seat in the curves, but not a necessity. I only sport ride, so riding at a good clip. I wouldn't be concerned with using the same company for front and rear unless you are maybe going the cartridge route for valving. Name brand front springs are generally made from the same quality stock. I suppose the handling of the later models may be different from my earlier model. It never did anything annoying.

 

Thanks all for sharing your Thruxton suspension set ups. Still on stock OEM but closing in on a solution. I have adjusted my front forks to 5 out of 6 rings (6 is softest) and they are much better, so concentrating on rear shock options, set at softest currently. Still as hard as all speeds and bouncy as heck at higher speeds - no surprises. Decided I really like the OEM look, pic attached. This look is a little harder to match with the all silver/chrome finish and the piston rod at the top. Most have rod at the bottom! Also really like the half round shrouds that is actually only about 1 3/8" high, long way from half!

So far...Hagons - Classic 1 in all silver unavailable at moment. Determined none available in all silver - Ikons, Tech.

That leaves the YSS Bravos and some pricier options from Bitubo. Any others I should consider??? Looking to stay at stock or close to stock length - 14.25" and as I say, close to OEM look as possible. Willing to pay a little more to get the looks to match!

Help appreciated!

 

Thanks all for sharing your Thruxton suspension set ups. Still on stock OEM but closing in on a solution. I have adjusted my front forks to 5 out of 6 rings (6 is softest) and they are much better, so concentrating on rear shock options, set at softest currently. Still as hard as all speeds and bouncy as heck at higher speeds - no surprises. Decided I really like the OEM look, pic attached. This look is a little harder to match with the all silver/chrome finish and the piston rod at the top. Most have rod at the bottom! Also really like the half round shrouds that is actually only about 1 3/8" high, long way from half!



So far...Hagons - Classic 1 in all silver unavailable at moment. Determined none available in all silver - Ikons, Tech.



That leaves the YSS Bravos and some pricier options from Bitubo. Any others I should consider??? Looking to stay at stock or close to stock length - 14.25" and as I say, close to OEM look as possible. Willing to pay a little more to get the looks to match!



Help appreciated!

YSS makes a good shock, Hagon nitro shocks are silver.

 

See what Wilbers has to offer.

 

Thinking seriously about the YSS Bravos, but wondering if they are really only a marginal improvement to the OEMs. Thoughts anyone???

They are a good match based on the looks and also reasonably priced, but only have spring tension adjustment like the Thruxton OEM.

I think the Hagon Nitros have to be installed piston rod down, so won't take the shroud. Maybe wrong?

 

Thinking seriously about the YSS Bravos, but wondering if they are really only a marginal improvement to the OEMs. Thoughts anyone???



They are a good match based on the looks and also reasonably priced, but only have spring tension adjustment like the Thruxton OEM.



I think the Hagon Nitros have to be installed piston rod down, so won't take the shroud. Maybe wrong?

I would think the bravo has better damping.
The Nitro is rod down. They will shroud any shock for you.
http://www.hagonshocksusa.com/hagshocks.htm

 

Big fan of Ikons. Just order them direct from Ikon, USA and have them built for your weight, not off the shelf. Plug and play and work as well as this chassis can be expected to work. http://gallery.leica-users.org/d/353092-1/Workshop-T-100.jpg Decent control and very comfortable. Will demonstrate the shortcomings of the fork. Unless you do Intiminators or similar, going from 10W to 7W might help on the cheap. (The stock 10W is subject to hydraulic lock.)

 

Update having started this thread, but still undecided....please help!

I decided I really want to stay with the stock OEM look on the shocks of my 2013 Thruxton. The bikes overall look played a major role in my reason for buying. The OEM looking shocks are all silver/chrome (no black) with piston rods at the top, and are topped with a short chrome shroud.

Focus first is replacing the shocks for comfort/relief, and later on the front I will try switching to 5W fork oil, and perhaps Intiminators if that doesn’t do it!

I intend to remain at 360-370 mm (14.25”) for a match to the stock length.

From my research, Gazi can’t match the look, so I am left with the lower end of two other brands plus a more costly option. You will recognize the brands…

1. YSS Bravos – appear to be a good match, $265 plus $25 S&H, but only pre-load adjustment.

2. Hagon Classic 1 – to get the look to match I must import directly from England. Local distribution in USA has dried up! Cost is 198.75 plus 55 GB pounds S&H about US$330. Also only pre-load adjustment.

3. Ikon 7610-1507-SP8 – these match the look and have both pre-load and 4 position rebound damping. But BIG hike in price at $580 plus $25 S&H - total $605. Well up there!! Far as I can tell there is not a more affordable Ikon that looks similar to my OEM. Have an email in to see if there is a more affordable option.

So, yes I know, you get what you pay for. Question - Should I go all the way to the Ikons? Will the Hagon Classic 1s or the Bravos work for me, or just be “a bit” better? Is it worth the extra money for the Ikons??? I need to act fast or garage my bike as my back is starting to kill me….tragic at this warm weather riding time of the year. I commute, don’t track but enjoy fast runs when the mood hits. Do I need rebound adjustment in addition to pre-load on a Thruxton?

Trying to gain feedback/info/confidence in the Hagons Classic 1 or YSS Bravos before pulling the trigger. Will they be significantly better and give me the relief I am looking for - primarily more of a comfortable ride on the potholed, patched and uneven Michigan roads vs. the OEMs. Once the fix is in I won’t play much. Just want to get it right the first time! Please share your knowledge and experience, and thanks in advance for your input.

 

Update having started this thread, but still undecided....please help!



I decided I really want to stay with the stock OEM look on the shocks of my 2013 Thruxton. The bikes overall look played a major role in my reason for buying. The OEM looking shocks are all silver/chrome (no black) with piston rods at the top, and are topped with a short chrome shroud.



Focus first is replacing the shocks for comfort/relief, and later on the front I will try switching to 5W fork oil, and perhaps Intiminators if that doesn’t do it!



I intend to remain at 360-370 mm (14.25”) for a match to the stock length.



From my research, Gazi can’t match the look, so I am left with the lower end of two other brands plus a more costly option. You will recognize the brands…



1.YSS Bravos – appear to be a good match, $265 plus $25 S&H, but only pre-load adjustment.



2.Hagon Classic 1 – to get the look to match I must import directly from England. Local distribution in USA has dried up! Cost is 198.75 plus 55 GB pounds S&H about US$330. Also only pre-load adjustment.



3.Ikon 7610-1507-SP8 – these match the look and have both pre-load and 4 position rebound damping. But BIG hike in price at $580 plus $25 S&H - total $605. Well up there!! Far as I can tell there is not a more affordable Ikon that looks similar to my OEM. Have an email in to see if there is a more affordable option.



So, yes I know, you get what you pay for. Question - Should I go all the way to the Ikons? Will the Hagon Classic 1s or the Bravos work for me, or just be “a bit” better? Is it worth the extra money for the Ikons??? I need to act fast or garage my bike as my back is starting to kill me….tragic at this warm weather riding time of the year. I commute, don’t track but enjoy fast runs when the mood hits. Do I need rebound adjustment in addition to pre-load on a Thruxton?



Trying to gain feedback/info/confidence in the Hagons Classic 1 or YSS Bravos before pulling the trigger. Will they be significantly better and give me the relief I am looking for - primarily more of a comfortable ride on the potholed, patched and uneven Michigan roads vs. the OEMs. Once the fix is in I won’t play much. Just want to get it right the first time! Please share your knowledge and experience, and thanks in advance for your input.

For the Ikons, you can get the 7610 for cheaper without all of the options. If you decide to go with these, we can help you on pricing a little.

Another option could be the works steel trackers. They are a great shock in the same price range.

 

I went with the TEC rear shocks. Definetly not of the same quality and customization as the other ones you have listed but at under $100 for the pair it fit my build.

 

You have repeatedly mentioned you wanted an OEM-looking set of shocks, but with an improvement in performance. Nitro's, 2810's, Wilbers, Ohlins... they're all "shaft-down" designs that do not lend themselves to having dust caps.

It's great that you're seeking advice from end-users of various shock brands. Just keep in mind that each rider is as different in terms of bike set-up/use/budget/etc. as are the brands and models they recommend.

Suspension, like most speed equipment, should be sourced from suppliers who know your bike, not merely their product line specs.

/M

PS: You weren't that green Thruxton that blew by me on Sheldon road yesterday? I need to sell you mufflers too.<g>

 

Agree with BellaCorse - They've always been very helpful and knowledgeable for me as I've purchased numerous items over the years - they know these bikes inside out.