Hi,

Assuming your bike still has two separate ignition coils, one either side of the frame tube under the tank, I use the standard Triumph 60-2207 as fitted to the '71-on 500 ('71-on 650 are oil-in-frame, have the coils sited under the seat so use longer wires).

The wires should be insulated stranded copper wire conductor. The main thing to ensure is you're sold a set with coil terminals and plug terminals crimped to the wires, the terminals are then covered by separate plastic covers.

Ime, what you don't want is a set with separate plug caps screwed into the ends of the wires; these are an unreliable pita, always coming loose, every now-and-then you have to cut a bit off the lead so the cap screw tightens, eventually the plug leads are too short and you have to buy new ...

It's been converted to electronic ignition.

Which one? Photo. of the electronics "Box"?

The important thing to know is whether the bike has specifically any digital electronic components - this could be the EI and/or it could be the regulator/rectifier. Reason you need to know is specifically digital electronics are more susceptible to electro-magnetic interference, the HT is a prime source of EMI, digital electronics need a 5 KiloOhm resistor in each HT circuit to suppress the EMI - I prefer it to be the spark plugs, they must have an "R" in their code - e.g. Champion RN3, NGK BR8ES.

Hth.

Regards,

 

i buy stranded copper plug wire kits from the farm supply store. cut the wires to length, crimp the metal ends on, then slide down the covers. theyre designed for use on old magneto-driven tractors and generators and work well on my stuff. but i have all old mk3 boyers.

you need an actual plug wire crimping tool to do a decent job.

i used NGK B8ES plugs for many years. no longer available, so im trying out champion N3 stuff again, N3C this time around.

 

I use old type copper wire leads. Plugs, i have only ever used Champion N3C and they have never failed or fouled up. Not even any loss of electrode between changes at about 3000 miles

 

I only ever used Champion USA plugs. I change them not as regularly as @rambo maybe 10,000-12,000 miles I have never had a problem plug either.
I like the fact that there is no conversion for heat range, what is in the manual is what you order.

NGK the worlds largest spark plug supplier also make quality products, I don’t use them because I have to convert the heat range and because NGK have fallen foul of the people who produce fake copies of their products.
Regards
Peg.
PS. Champion resistor plug caps fall apart with vibration though, I use NGK plug caps, in black colour if you can find them.

 

Thank you.

 

I got lucky. Good heavy 8mm wires. Ordered 4 spare champion plugs and a cheap wrench.

 

I also found the champion plug caps to fail so use NGK black type. The type that grip the thread on the plug so you throw away the aluminium plug top part. The Champion plugs have always been low cost. Often i find them at what we call car boot sales and buy at 50 p each. I bought a job lot of N3C and N4C for my two old bikes and will never need to buy any more.
Be careful of cheap plug wrenches. You really need the rubber insert that holds the plug. At all cost, make sure the plug is screwed in with fingers first so its not crossed. That way, you will keep your head free from having to fit an insert. Apply a little copperslip grease to the threads and it will always be easy to take out. Even after years in place.

 

i stopped running champions years ago because the N3s always fouled.

even gold palladium N3Gs.

switched to NGK B8ES and never had another problem.

but the nonresistor plugs are gone, and like peg says, the NGK fakes have come around to visit. dunno about fake champions.

i havent run N3Cs enough to have an opinion, but so far they seem to work.

 

That might explain my NGK flooding and dead plug issues in my ATV.