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Weird front axle problem on wheel removal...

6.8K views 19 replies 10 participants last post by  Kikdrum  
#1 ·
So I am at a track yesterday and have the bike on the stands and normally (like with the other 8000 bikes I've worked on), removing the front wheel to get a tire changed is entirely undramatic.
But not on this bike.
So it has 1500 miles or so on the ODO and most of that was done by previous riders (it was a demo bike). Serviced entirely by dealership staff.
It was INCREDIBLY difficult to get the front axle out. Yes of course I removed the pinch bolts.
It was also really difficult to unthread... I was afraid it had been cross-threaded by a hamfisted mechanic and his too strong impact gun... but that wasn't the problem.

It turns out the right side aluminum spacer had been galled- it was out of round and had basically seized onto the axle. We finally got it out by fashioning a punch out of a 1/4" drive extension and suitable diameter socket... and beat it out with a hammer.

The axle is perfectly straight.

The left side spacer slides on and off perfectly. The bearings and centering dowel between them are all good.

It's just the one spacer. My micrometer showed a difference of wall thickness of .4mm in various places, and the diameter varied up to .8mm. The part that was too narrow for the axle got marked, and I worked on it with a half round file, and then heavy scotchbrite and finally 0 then 000 steel wool. Re-Mic'd it and it was nice and round, and it slipped right over the axle like the other one.

I put the axle in without wheel or spacers just to test the threading -- and it screwed in without resistance as it is supposed to do.
I put it all back together and torqued it down to spec and it's perfect now.

But it really had me worried.
 
#2 ·
The spacers should be just spacers. They don't align anything really, so as long as they aren't binding and are still the same thickness, I wouldn't worry about them. Good job getting the spacer cleaned up.
 
#3 ·
Yes.
"just spacers..." Made from a too-soft material that galls/warps and binds on the axle. I get they wanted to keep the unsprung weight as low as possible, but there are more resilient lightweight metals/alloys that will hold their shape under the loads this front end is capable of generating.
 
#4 ·
I don't think you can blame the material, its the hamfisted previous owner or mechanics fault.
If you're changing wheels regularly maybe replace them with a new set of captive spacers.
 
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#9 ·
The captive part is the relative bit, same material, some find them easier for frequent wheel changes especially the rear.
Still maintain there's nothing wrong with the OEM parts, just clumsy owners, or previous owners in your case.
 
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#6 ·
The same exact thing happened to me last month - 2020 RS. Tried removing the front wheel and it was extremely difficult ultimately requiring a hammer. The one spacer was too narrow on the one side. I suspect the axle was over torqued by the shop that did the tires previous when I brought the bike in. I had to sand down the inside corner of the spacer to get it back on. PITA
 
#12 ·
Why, so someone can overtorque the spindle and not damage the spacer, but damage the spindle or forks instead, just do the job properly and there is NO issue.
 
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#16 ·
It's POSSIBLE the aluminum used by the Thai factory for these spacers is of a softer/cheaper/crappier alloy. It's POSSIBLE also that the wall thickness of these spacers is too thin for the type of alloy and when the specified torque is applied, these engineering-fail factors are "squishing" them, and it is all exacerbated when things get hot down there. We are seeing some issues from the "let's make all these bikes in Thailand and use a lot of asian sourced products and services to do it..." Teething issues on the 2019/2020 bikes? Will they sort this stuff out? TBD. LOTS of other bikes have aluminum spacers with zero issues. So instead of steel, I might look to get thicker wall spacers made from an alloy like 7068 instead of 6061 or whatever they used...