Hi - your link didn't work but found it

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=29975

Here's another feature to improve the longevity of the Regulator/Rectifier:

http://www.triumphrat.net/showthread.php?t=59592

 

Zam, DEcosse,

Thanks for the info. I will be doing the mod for safety to the electrical system.:goodpost:

TT

 

Thanks a lot Zam; very good info and post. I have found that my charging system isn't up to par. I am noticing that every time I start the bike the battery seems to have a little less juice (brand new battery.) The volt readings are also as you described. I definitely think this might be the fix. I'll go ahead and run the bypass this week.

 

It would seem that my bike overheard our discussion. I went out this morning to fire it, and it turned over once and then began the old solenoid clicking. The battery was down to 12.1V.

I just finished running the bypass. I didn't have any 12 gauge wire around, nor did I have an in-line fuse; I went over to Napa auto parts and bought one spool of red and one spool of black 12g wire and a heavy duty 12g in-line fuse. In all, I spent $18. I couldn't get to the regulator plug without taking off the tail fairings. The whole thing took 40 minutes, and that's including removing/installing the fairings and soldering the connections.

Prior to the bypass, I took some volt readings. At engine temp of 190F with the high beams on, the system was charging 14.2 +- at idle. As soon as I cracked the throttle open it dropped to 13.4 +-.

After the bypass, it is now charging at 14.7 +- and drops to 14.4 +- when the throttle is opened. Off the bat I noticed a difference in the way the engine ran. It is much more responsive and smoother when giving it gas. I'm going to do this to my TT600 drag bike next. Thanks again Zam!

 

:thumbsup: Excellent!
A great side benefit of this is how much cooler your regulator & stator will run (and last longer)

Like I said before, this mod cannot hurt...worse case, it'll do nothing but, I have never found a single bike (or car believe it or not - a car would take bigger wire) that this doesn't show at least some improvement on.

Your battery being flat @ 12.1 indicates either a tired battery or a small draw some where...watch out for that before it leaves you stranded.

 

I have never found a single bike (or car believe it or not - a car would take bigger wire) that this doesn't show at least some improvement on.

Trust me, this mod is well known in the car world. Ask any car audio enthusiast about the 'big three' and see what he says.

Big three: Extra, or replacement heavy gauge wires from alternator to battery +ve, engine block to battery -ve, engine block to chassis. At minimum I use 8ga.

First modification to make when building a high wattage system because the OEM wiring is barely adequate at best. Of course there are benefits to the whole electrical system including smoother running, less dimming of lights etc. etc.

 

technicalities not with standing...

I used the "touch" method .
Prior to the additional wires, my Regulator would heat up fast...
after, it didn't...at least not as quick.

Not saying your wrong, because technically, you're absolutely correct in every way.

in the end, do the mod, don't do the mod...makes no difference to me.

 

Zam70-

You seem to know a lot about the electrical stuff on these daytonas...where is the "grounding block" on them....I am use to seeing an actual block....where would this be located?

 

I haven't actually looked for that yet but I don't believe it is so much a block as a junction point.

 

Silver,

you have this information already it was posted in a very recent thread on the ground wire fix. It is a JUNCTION point only right below the seat on the BLOCK of the MOTOR.

 

Thanks TT missed that one.......

 

Mod done and improvement is evident, thanks for the info and help Zam.

TT

 

zam70: I just want to be clear on the connections;
1st: 12 ga. jumper between brown leads, then onto the + batt. terminal with a fuse holder between? What size fuse? That which equals the main fuse rating?
2nd: 12 ga. jumper between the black leads, then onto the - batt. terminal?
It sounds like this is the result Triumph was/is looking for by directing their techs. to install the extra ground wire (see other posts). I'm gonna do it tomorrow night!
Thanks for the info.!!

 

I would use a 30 amp fuse.

You're dead on for the rest.

 

I would use a 30 amp fuse.....

A minor nit-pick that I just realized when answering question on another thread .......
If you install a 30 Amp fuse in-line with the new bypass, you can actually flow 60A total - regardless of the preferred (lower resistance) path of the new bypass, current will still flow through the original parallel path. So potentially the bike could draw 60 Amps before the fuses blow.
Simplest way around this is to remove the 30A fuse (#2) from the OEM fuse panel (unless of course the original wiring is completely cut to the original fuse panel instead of wired in parallel).

An alternative which involves slightly more wiring would be to do this:

 

TT-

What improvements did you experience with the mod?

 

Same as Bombfactory, steady charging, no dimming under load, but haven't tested the smoothness or responsiveness of the bike yet. I am happy with the steady charging because I use accessories in the winter and am hoping this will help keep things at an acceptable level charge wise.

 

My buddy smoked his connector between the stator and the regulator. His stator died and when he replaced it, he didn't adequately re-coat the plug with dielectric grease; corrosion got him.

 

I did the bypass last night. I was shocked to see how the conductor sizes changed after the connector!! Their electrical engineer needs to retire! They went from what looked like 12 or 14 to what couldn't have been more than 18!!! My system showed 13.6 idling and dropped to 13.4 @4000 rpm. After the bypass it held a steady 14.5, idling, revving, whatever! Well done, Zam!! One of the best posts I've seen!!! Seven thumbs up!

 

Glad to help

 

I'm interested in something like this for my '98 t595... are the plugs and wires pretty much the same? I'll have to take a look at the wiring diagram, but my charging system definitely needs as much help as it can get. Thanks!

 

You have an integrated automotive style alternator on your bike.

 

most regulators are the same - the wires might be a different color but, the function & operation is the same -
If you have a meter, you just need to verify the voltage polarity -
common the 2 positive wires together and then common the 2 negative wires togetehr.

 

Last week I ended up with a flat rear tire. This happend while I was at my work. So, while I was working on that tire problem, I decided to do this mod. Now the throttle response is ike my R6 (may even be better). Also, the idle has straighten out, but that could also be becuase I replaced the air filter with a K&N. The other filter was done for. Now, the bike is happy

 

Right on Decosse - thanks for the clarification

 

Zam,
Can you explain the benefits in layman's terms? It sounds like aside from a power consumption benefit, there are benefits to engine performace?

And how did the bike handle before and after?
Thanks!
-Scott

 

basically, the longer the distance electricity has to travel, the lower the voltage will be in the end (increased resistance = decreased voltage).
to complicate things, the smaller the wire the voltage is traveling on over this long distance, the harder the alternator has to work to make the electricity move down the wire, this causes burnt up plugs, alternators, rectifiers etc...(same thing, increased resistance = decreased voltage)

Small wire can be used effectively IF the distance traveled is very short AND long distances are no problem if the wire used is a large gauge..
BUT - in motorcycles, space is at a premium and harness manufaturing and assembly have to be taken into consideration. Unfortunately, I don't think the bike engineers (any of them) take real world use into account...so on paper, the gauge and length of wire used is fine but, in the real world, it's not.

SO - the MOD I do - take a large wire, run over a short distance and all is better and working how it was intended...no bottle neck in the wiring

The only performance increase would be the bike now working as it was designed with proper voltage...It will REALLY effect ignition coils since they are a linear device (a coil multiplies its input voltage, so - lets say the voltage input is 12 volts and it increases the voltage 1000 fold, that would equal a spark voltage of 12000 volts, now lets get the input voltage up to 14.4 and now our spark voltage is 14400)

this is simplified but, I hope it helps explain things.

 

This is how I did mine
See the first diagram in my post above for electrical schematic.
I cut the plug off the regulator output (red & black wires), then soldered on a waterproof fuse holder to the pair of red wires and a 10 ga extender wire to the 2 black wires. The cable ends of the fuse-holder output & the black wire extender both got crimped ring lugs to connect directly to the battery posts.
The circuit through the fuse panel is already broken, since there is no longer anything connected to the regulator plug harness connector. I conveniently borrowed the 30A fuse from the #2 slot to use in my new fuse holder.
I soldered my wire connections & insulated with heat-shrink rubber tubing.

The fuse holder is easily obtainable at any auto-supply store - comes with wires already attached so only need one connection to make to the regulator output wires.

Here is the result - 12.6V is motor off, the 14.96V is with the motor at idle! (my battery is a bit lower than normal, bike hasn't been out in a while & didn't have my Tender hooked up)

You can also just make out my custom copper heatsink to which the Rectifier/Regulator is mounted.

Other pics including after-market Stator from Ricks MotorSport Electrics and my heatsink mod in My Charging Circuit Gallery