[aakashdb]

Over here in India it's close to $500 for a valve check

 

[HunterSr]

3 exhausts were tight at 3000km:s, one having zero or even negative play. Then at 6000km:s i changed to TEC cam and had to change 3 chims again. Next check at 7000km:s to check if anything changed after the new cam but all were as i left them. Then again check last winter at 10000km:s and all good, no changes.
So the first check after run in was necessary i would say, either they were wrong from factory or had settled in. Would have burned one exhaust if i hadn´ t done that. The last check at 10000 was just for peace of mind but will probably keep checking them every other winter, not that i think it is needed as everything has settled now but i like to tinker!

I was also wondering if my intake valve lash was off from the factory? Or was it just settled in? My guess is it's the factory's fault, because the first time I checked my throttle body balance it was way off, and new from the factory. It's now been seven years since I first re-balanced the throttle bodies and they are still spot-on & in-spec with no more adjustments needed. That was for sure a factory FUBAR.

 

[HunterSr]

It is not like the DOHC model the single cam is so doable unless you are not that me technically inclined, the easy thing you can do pull the plugs get TDC and check your clearances , then if you need adjustments take it to the stealer.

The hard part is getting the valve cover off and on. Checking clearances and changing shims is easy after that.

 

[TRS666]

I was also wondering if my intake valve lash was off from the factory? Or was it just settled in? My guess is it's the factory's fault, because the first time I checked my throttle body balance it was way off, and new from the factory. It's now been seven years since I first re-balanced the throttle bodies and they are still spot-on & in-spec with no more adjustments needed. That was for sure a factory FUBAR.

Would be interesting to know if the factory actually measures and adjusts each engine or if they thrust their tolerances are so good that they just assemble with "standard" thickness shims and take a sample to check in certain intervals. Don´t think they would take the time to check them after teststart of the ingine in bench, or if they even teststart them before assembling to bike?
Knowing car industry well my quess is they use standart shims and take samples. Everything that takes time is a big red flag for factories.

 

[StreetTwin]

If their tolerances were that good, then the "standard" shims would all be the same size.

 

[oldgoldie]

Then, you'll know if they actually need adjustment and if so, the exact shims needed.

To determine the exact shims needed, the current shims will need to be removed and measured in which case it would make little sense to not get the correct shims and install them.

 

[J Man]

Let me just add a bit of info to this thread. I already posted the quoted amount I got for a valve check/adjustment during my annual service. As for doing it yourself, go for it, it's a lot cheaper. There was a day when I was young and broke and had lotsa time that I did all my own work. Rebuilt engines, clutch replacement, tire mounting, etc. But now I have more $ and less time, so when I saw the manual suggested 14K mile adjustment, I was like "What?". I asked the dealer who said that yes that WAS the reco for my 2020 T120, but that Triumph just changed it to 20K miles. In fact, the dealer told me he hadn't done it on his own bike already over 20K. So I decided NOT to do the valves yet. Then all the sudden, my bike started making a really loud bad noise, like a 2-stroke, or a rattle paint can. I immediately took to the dealer since I don't have time, and I was gonna be outta town 2 weeks. It had 14K miles, and guess what, the valves were out of adjustment. Dealer adjusted and added new shims, and all is great now. I find it odd that it happened right at 14K miles. Obviously a coincidence, but you know... What they charged for the adjustment was $

Here's the quote they gave me for my 20K mile service which includes a LOT more than just the valves. $900 USD which is likely $1200 CAD

Job:20K mile service
Triumph Bonneville T120 Black 2020 - SMTD40HL5LT972914
Check And Adjust Valve clearances, New Air Filter, New Spark Plugs, New Fuel Filter
Change oil, oil filter and crush washer. Inspect and adjust chain. Check brakes and brake fluid consistency. Check tires and inflation.
Check Coolant. Inspect all fittings, gaskets and torque settings. Perform diagnostic examination, updates and reset with Triumph diagnostic tool

Resolution: Recommended Repairs: Job Subtotal: $944.60

Let me just add a bit of info to this thread. I already posted the quoted amount above for a full service including a valve check/adjustment during my annual service. As for doing it yourself, go for it, it's a lot cheaper. There was a day when I was young and broke and had lotsa time that I did all my own work. Rebuilt engines, clutch replacement, tire mounting, etc. But now I have more $ and less time, so when I saw the manual suggested 14K mile adjustment, I was like "What?". I asked the dealer who said that yes that WAS the reco for my 2020 T120, but that Triumph just changed it to 20K miles. In fact, the dealer told me he hadn't done it on his own bike already over 20K. So I decided NOT to do the valves yet. Then all the sudden, my bike started making a really loud bad noise, like a 2-stroke, or a rattle paint can. I immediately took to the dealer since I don't have time, and I was gonna be outta town 2 weeks. It had 14K miles, and guess what, the valves were out of adjustment. Dealer adjusted and added new shims, and all is great now. I find it odd that it happened right at 14K miles. Obviously a coincidence, but you know... What they charged for the adjustment was more like $750 FYI.

 

[thepav]

3 exhausts were tight at 3000km:s, one having zero or even negative play. Then at 6000km:s i changed to TEC cam and had to change 3 chims again. Next check at 7000km:s to check if anything changed after the new cam but all were as i left them. Then again check last winter at 10000km:s and all good, no changes.
So the first check after run in was necessary i would say, either they were wrong from factory or had settled in. Would have burned one exhaust if i hadn´ t done that. The last check at 10000 was just for peace of mind but will probably keep checking them every other winter, not that i think it is needed as everything has settled now but i like to tinker!

Thanks for this important feedback. I will check mine if/when i have the tank off I think. Or if something sounds amiss