Hi all trying to rewire my 593TA as loom wires were all over the place & falling apart , i have a new loom but the colours are not strictly matching up plus the wiring diagram does not say what wires go where on the rectifier the new loom wires are red, green ,purple light greenish & the rectifier is solid state , the bike is positive earth , i need to know what wires to to the +on the rec & the only other bit i can see says ac? Thanks
Triumph 3TA wiring help needed
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3TALAD
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New reg/rec wire colours are 2 yellows a black & a red , instructions state if you have a 3 wire stator it can be converted to 12 volt by
connect stators green /black & green/ yellow together & then connect to yellow on the reg/rec
connect the stators green white to the other yellow , my stator colours are dark green , light green , green/yellow , any suggestions ? thanks
connect stators green /black & green/ yellow together & then connect to yellow on the reg/rec
connect the stators green white to the other yellow , my stator colours are dark green , light green , green/yellow , any suggestions ? thanks
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Look at your workshop manual, you will see that green/yellow is the common return for all 3 coils, so connect that to one of the reg/rec yellows. Then connect the other two stator wires together and connect them to the other reg/rec yellow. You are still using the original stator and rotor? Good luck on getting sufficient output, you may need it.
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3,460 Posts
The coil has nothing to do with the charging circuit, though if you're using a 6 volt coil with a 12 volt battery, it will get VERY hot!
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15,675 Posts
Hi Dave, Mick,
), should make fewer mistakes, more progress.
...
Reg./rec. with only two Yellow (AC) wires is A Bad Idea ime - if/when you upgrade the alternator, you're stuck with a single-phase (two wires) stator. Otoh, select a reg./rec. with three Yellow wires (3-phase) if/when you upgrade the alternator, you can choose single or 3-phase stator.
Also, the 3-phase I linked for you is cheaper than the single-phase you bought ...
As I've posted for your already, 12V (or the old 6V) is simply the nominal Volts of the regulated DC, nothing whatsoever to do with the AC from any alternator (if you'd bought a 6V reg./rec. and connected the same stator to that, the DC would be 6V).
Imho, return that particular reg./rec., buy a 3-phase reg./rec.
. "earth" is to the battery, not "from", it's the battery terminal connected to the structure of the vehicle (frame and engine on a motorcycle) that determines that vehicle's "earth".
. Reg./rec. Red wire is connected to battery positive terminal specifically; the other reg./rec. DC wire is connected to the battery negative terminal.
. Harness Red wires are also to battery positive specifically.
Hth.
Regards,
NO! Absolutely not!
With respect, all the way back at post #4, I advised:-
... your bike hasn't got a wiring loom worth a light, how have you connected battery to coil? Why have you suddenly connected the battery to the coil?
Mmmm ... so why don't you ask questions before you do stuff? Then you'll have the correct answers (usually
), should make fewer mistakes, more progress.So why not buy the one I suggested?
...... has three Yellow wires ... one for each stator wire ...
Reg./rec. with only two Yellow (AC) wires is A Bad Idea ime - if/when you upgrade the alternator, you're stuck with a single-phase (two wires) stator. Otoh, select a reg./rec. with three Yellow wires (3-phase) if/when you upgrade the alternator, you can choose single or 3-phase stator.
Also, the 3-phase I linked for you is cheaper than the single-phase you bought ...
Instructions were written by someone with great knowledge - of perhaps cookery or gardening? - bugger-all of electrics, is complete cobblers.
As I've posted for your already, 12V (or the old 6V) is simply the nominal Volts of the regulated DC, nothing whatsoever to do with the AC from any alternator (if you'd bought a 6V reg./rec. and connected the same stator to that, the DC would be 6V).Imho, return that particular reg./rec., buy a 3-phase reg./rec.
Sort-of:-
. "earth" is to the battery, not "from", it's the battery terminal connected to the structure of the vehicle (frame and engine on a motorcycle) that determines that vehicle's "earth".
. Reg./rec. Red wire is connected to battery positive terminal specifically; the other reg./rec. DC wire is connected to the battery negative terminal.
. Harness Red wires are also to battery positive specifically.
Hth.
Regards,
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3,460 Posts
Apologies, my bad, but still nothing to do with the coil!
Most definitely will be making a diagram of what he does , i have rewired / customised/ restored many bikes mostly 70s Honda fours a couple of old Yam DTs & a Suzuki TS ER but although their looms had four times the amount of wires this little triumph has it had me stumped !!!!
Bike rewired , all lights work , wiring has Bladed fuse added everything was ok but the new coil got very hot even without engine running but with ignition on & then the bike would not start , adjusted points ,plugs etc had a spark & fuel but no start , took off coil put an old one i had & it started 1st kick, i suspect the coil that i bought that was advertised as genuine Lucas is in fact an EMGO one as it has a sticker underneath the lucas one & i fear it was faulty !!!
Hi
There has not been a genuine Lucas company since the 1990’s, the fake ‘genuine’ Lucas company just bought the name and appears to not care too much about the quality.
The aftermarket coils are often resin filled, where as better quality ones (including the original Lucas coils) were oil filled for more effusion cooling.
Tri spark coils are the only new ones that have traceable quality control. They are good but expensive.
regards
Peg.
There has not been a genuine Lucas company since the 1990’s, the fake ‘genuine’ Lucas company just bought the name and appears to not care too much about the quality.
The aftermarket coils are often resin filled, where as better quality ones (including the original Lucas coils) were oil filled for more effusion cooling.
Tri spark coils are the only new ones that have traceable quality control. They are good but expensive.
regards
Peg.
Thank you very interesting info , i got it from a very well known classic bike spares shop that was advertised as genuine Lucas ,the top plastic part actually says Lucas but when it got hot the Lucas sticker came away & underneath was another stating EMGO so obviously just a copy even came in a lucas box ! , i have reached out to them to see what they say so we will see , but i know EMCO has been mentioned on this forum before ref overheating coils.
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15,675 Posts
Hi Dave,
Emgo and Wassell collaborate to a great extent over a large range of spares for old Britbikes, the companies don't challenge each other in several markets, including Europe and the US.
Several possible reasons for the coil becoming very hot, likely centred around incorrect the primary resistance. You could ask the person who rewired your bike to check this, he should know the correct coil primary resistance ranges for the bike's nominal DC system Voltage (6V or 12V). Whatever the fault, would give you a cast-iron reason for demanding a refund from the seller.
Regards,
This.
Afaik, the rights to the "Lucas" name and branding are still owned by ZF? ZF just rents 'em to Wassell.
This.
"Genuine Lucas" is a concoction by Wassell; regrettably difficult to challenge as Wassell has been given the exclusive right to use the "Lucas" name/branding.
Emgo and Wassell collaborate to a great extent over a large range of spares for old Britbikes, the companies don't challenge each other in several markets, including Europe and the US.
Several possible reasons for the coil becoming very hot, likely centred around incorrect the primary resistance. You could ask the person who rewired your bike to check this, he should know the correct coil primary resistance ranges for the bike's nominal DC system Voltage (6V or 12V). Whatever the fault, would give you a cast-iron reason for demanding a refund from the seller.
Regards,
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