It's a savage way to test the product, but apparently this company does this test with all their bars.
Hi Hogar, it does not appear that they would work with risers since they attach at the top of the handlebar clamps and the ends of the bars. I am attaching a couple of photos. View attachment 778212 View attachment 778213 View attachment 778212 View attachment 778213
Even with the bolt break I had, I think that the Outback Motortek bars are probably the best option for the Tigers. I am, however, going to look at things and see if just the lower bars make sense. I think the only possible issue would be if the lower bars rely on the upper bars for some of their strength. I doubt; it is probably the other way around, as the uppers mount to a filet plate on the lowers.Has anyone considered running just the outback motortek lower bars?
Appreciate your feedback. I'm on the fence. As of now I opted to remove the upper bolts and check them. They looked fine, so I reinserted the bolts with some medium thread locker. The thought is that perhaps they can back out a little, which causes vibration and excess wear. SW Motech recommended thread locker in their instructions, so [emoji1745].Even with the bolt break I had, I think that the Outback Motortek bars are probably the best option for the Tigers. I am, however, going to look at things and see if just the lower bars make sense. I think the only possible issue would be if the lower bars rely on the upper bars for some of their strength. I doubt; it is probably the other way around, as the uppers mount to a filet plate on the lowers.
For whatever reason, the upper engine to frame mounting point seems to be an issue that is independant of brand of upper bars. Though, again, the OM seems to be the most compact design.
I'll let you know what I find.
Good point, I did do them one at a time with the fear of the engine shifting on me. I was able to loosen part of the side fairings to fit my torque wrench in there and I could properly torque the bolts. Previously, I only snugged them up to an approximation.I know zero about this, but I would be very careful about taking both of the upper bolts out at the same time (long story about stupidity on my part to be inserted here). I think the torque is the thing. The OM install video misses a lot of info but they do, if I recall correctly, give a torque value for all the bolts, and I think it is within a couple of Nm of the recommendations by others.
Not quite answering your question. I have the standard engine bars but also have the he-co Becker upper bars, high sided when going uphill about 50kph front wheel dropped in a big rut going round left hand bend and went splat on the uphill side, definitely hit the upper bars and scraped them a bit, glad i had them, brake lever broke at usual point just below the ball on end and pierced through the handguards and broke glass in right side mirror. Other than that no damage to bikeHave any Tiger 900 owners dropped the bike with the factory engine protector installed but absent any tank protectors?
As in, just a stock Rally Pro been dropped?
I am curious to know if the tank touches the ground on drops. And if not, then what the value of a system like Outback Motortek really provides.
Sorry to hear about your failed bolt. Did your upper bars vibrate a lot before the bolt failure and was it noticable? How long did you have the bars installed? Did you happen to to use antisieze? I'm trying to narrow down a root cause.I just returned from doing the Smokey Mountain 500. I took a fall after making a novice decision while negotiating through a rocky section. All seemed fine but looked like the left side on my OM crash bar was slightly bent in.
When I got home I tried removing the crash bar and sure enough, the upper bolt had sheared. I wrote to OM and waiting for a response. I'll let you know how that goes.
Before I made the purchase, I contacted OM and voiced my concerns. He basically said that folks seem to complain on forums and no directly to him. He stands by his product. Well, we'll see.
Regardless, I do not believe ANY crashbar that uses the engine as a mount point is a 'best option'. I know there are limited mount points on the Tiger, so it's a matter of weighing pros and cons. Thankfully I can do it all over again so it's a choice between SW, Givi, and T-Rex but leaning towards SW.
Meanwhile, if anyone is in the market for a used set of OM crashbars, let me know.
No vibration. I've had them installed for about 3 months. A couple light falls in sand with no issues. I did not use loctite or anti-seize.Sorry to hear about your failed bolt. Did your upper bars vibrate a lot before the bolt failure and was it noticable? How long did you have the bars installed? Did you happen to to use antisieze? I'm trying to narrow down a root cause.
The frame design is so similar to the 800s and I don't recall bolt issues there so its perplexing. I know the 800s use a bolt and nut up there verses a threaded bolt, maybe that is something, as mentioned before.
Right now I'm in the camp of no upper bars using that bolt until we have a clearer picture of why it fails.
Could it be the bolts themselves? Not the right strength or type for the application? Does anyone know why the OEM bolt is fully threaded and the aftermarket bolts aren't? Perhaps it may be worth trying different bolts?
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Maybe you got a kit for the Rally Pro?I have had two issues fitting the OM crash bars on a Tiger 900 GT Pro. One of which I haven't seen mentioned before and I'm afraid it's the final nail in the coffin of using these bars.
1. The right side lower bar needed a little bit of "suggesting" to slide the tab into place on the forward-most mounting position. I used about 10" - 12" of leverage on a crowbar wrapped in tape to avoid scuffing. A lot of hand hammering in to place and it fit. I followed these steps based on email from OM and I was happy with results.
2. When everything was finally complete and tightened to specs, I was re-assembling the brake pedal foot peg assembly as the final step. I was met with a brake pedal that hits the crash bar. UGH. This is the same bar I had to suggest into place but after that everything was lining up okay on this side. It needed little leverage and the part that hits is not possible to bend it must have come from the factory with the mounting plate holes in the wrong place or something causing it to sit further back towards the pedal. There is practically no more adjustment to lower the brake pedal and honestly it's already too low I would prefer it higher. Crash bars should not be limiting my brake pedal adjustment anyways.
Contrary to some other experiences in this thread, I have received very good communication from OM on both the delays to my order and a resolution to item #1. I just emailed them regarding item #2 I will update however I move forward.
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