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I am very happy with the GIVI bars on my GT Pro. They have been tested on concrete and off-road and passed with flying colors. Along with the SW-Motech handlebar guards, they provided great protection. Both investments have paid for themselves by preventing scratches to the tank or engine covers, broken levers, or broken plastic hand guards.
 
I don't want to be Mr Buzz Kill.....but those Hackjob and Breaker hand guards are not a good product. Seems to be the norm for all of their products.

From another board: "So I thought the H.B. hand guards were a good design and stout, apparently not so. Went up a very steep track this afternoon that ended up having mud under dry leaves, needless to say the stock tires quickly found their limit. In the process of doing a foot pivot 180* on a side slope the bike tipped and laid down. Stock engine guards and HB hand guards protected everything on the bike but the hand guards wilted like warm cheese. Deformed in three places with powder coat failing (see images). Given their gauge they must be made of chinesium. I’ll see what I can get from hepco since this was a stationary drop onto soft ground. Not even a scratch to the paint where they touched down, just where the metal bent. "

Post and pics here:


Hi Hogar, it does not appear that they would work with risers since they attach at the top of the handlebar clamps and the ends of the bars. I am attaching a couple of photos. View attachment 778212 View attachment 778213 View attachment 778212 View attachment 778213
 
Speaking of risers, anybody watched this?
If I understood well, rotaring handlebars are more benefitial than installing non pivoting risers. Any thoughts?
 
From ADVRider..... Another victim.

People need to remove upper crash bars that mount to the front/upper engine to frame mounts. How many more of these stories do we need?


2020 Tiger 900?

Apparently it’s my turn for sheared off crash bar bolts.

In the mountains of Mexico, 50 miles from anywhere, both top crash bar bolts sheared off, and the crossbar smashed into the bottom radiator guard bolts and cracked both radiators.

Luckily a guy had jb weld and we got the holes sealed up, holding water. Found a nearby river and was able to get enough water to get it back to town.

I’m missing the top two engine bolts, and I’m in Mexico, and everything is closed.

I have to ride the bike two hours back to the border tomorrow.

Slightly stressed.

[IMG]
 
Has anyone considered running just the outback motortek lower bars?
Even with the bolt break I had, I think that the Outback Motortek bars are probably the best option for the Tigers. I am, however, going to look at things and see if just the lower bars make sense. I think the only possible issue would be if the lower bars rely on the upper bars for some of their strength. I doubt; it is probably the other way around, as the uppers mount to a filet plate on the lowers.

For whatever reason, the upper engine to frame mounting point seems to be an issue that is independant of brand of upper bars. Though, again, the OM seems to be the most compact design.

I'll let you know what I find.
 
Even with the bolt break I had, I think that the Outback Motortek bars are probably the best option for the Tigers. I am, however, going to look at things and see if just the lower bars make sense. I think the only possible issue would be if the lower bars rely on the upper bars for some of their strength. I doubt; it is probably the other way around, as the uppers mount to a filet plate on the lowers.

For whatever reason, the upper engine to frame mounting point seems to be an issue that is independant of brand of upper bars. Though, again, the OM seems to be the most compact design.

I'll let you know what I find.
Appreciate your feedback. I'm on the fence. As of now I opted to remove the upper bolts and check them. They looked fine, so I reinserted the bolts with some medium thread locker. The thought is that perhaps they can back out a little, which causes vibration and excess wear. SW Motech recommended thread locker in their instructions, so [emoji1745].

I still might decide to remove the uppers and just run the lowers. I do think that they would be strong enough on their own, even without a cross brace. Either way, I'll still be able to use the outback motortech skid plate which I like.

I figure that if one or both of the upper bolts break I can repair it and just run the lowers.

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I know zero about this, but I would be very careful about taking both of the upper bolts out at the same time (long story about stupidity on my part to be inserted here). I think the torque is the thing. The OM install video misses a lot of info but they do, if I recall correctly, give a torque value for all the bolts, and I think it is within a couple of Nm of the recommendations by others.
 
I know zero about this, but I would be very careful about taking both of the upper bolts out at the same time (long story about stupidity on my part to be inserted here). I think the torque is the thing. The OM install video misses a lot of info but they do, if I recall correctly, give a torque value for all the bolts, and I think it is within a couple of Nm of the recommendations by others.
Good point, I did do them one at a time with the fear of the engine shifting on me. I was able to loosen part of the side fairings to fit my torque wrench in there and I could properly torque the bolts. Previously, I only snugged them up to an approximation.

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I wanted to share something else too. When I installed the bars I discovered that the left side upper mount doesn't sit flush with the engine case because of the way the case is cut. Someone else mentioned this in OM's YouTube install video. This would cause the bar mount to be angled and put strain on the bolt. I fit a couple of washers between the case and crash bar mount to make the area flush and then installed the bolt. Unknown if this is a bullet dodged or not, but I think it can only help.

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Hi Guys!
I just bough used 900 Rally Pro as my first bike:), actually driving licence should get only in a month, but was too good deal to do not buy the bike earlier :) Searching for some upper crash bar. Read whole this theard and found only one post about knees touching crash bars issue. I'm quite tall - 190 cm (~6'3"). And if I try to sit as much as possible in front (seat in higher position, even not sure if I might want to lower it as a starting rider) and just put my finger at the end of bended knee it looks like I would be touching most of crash bars hardly. Please check the photo:
Image


I understand that sitting in very front might be not the most common sitting position, but at least my friend doing a lot of offroad told that when sitting in offroad corners you need to try to sit as much as possible in front. Another aspect is safety - if I crash into something, knees most probably might be broken.

So anyone here tall as me having crash bars which they are not touching with knees? Or at least anyone could recommend which brand to look best for taller guy?
 
Have any Tiger 900 owners dropped the bike with the factory engine protector installed but absent any tank protectors?
As in, just a stock Rally Pro been dropped?

I am curious to know if the tank touches the ground on drops. And if not, then what the value of a system like Outback Motortek really provides.
Not quite answering your question. I have the standard engine bars but also have the he-co Becker upper bars, high sided when going uphill about 50kph front wheel dropped in a big rut going round left hand bend and went splat on the uphill side, definitely hit the upper bars and scraped them a bit, glad i had them, brake lever broke at usual point just below the ball on end and pierced through the handguards and broke glass in right side mirror. Other than that no damage to bike
 
I have had two issues fitting the OM crash bars on a Tiger 900 GT Pro. One of which I haven't seen mentioned before and I'm afraid it's the final nail in the coffin of using these bars.

1. The right side lower bar needed a little bit of "suggesting" to slide the tab into place on the forward-most mounting position. I used about 10" - 12" of leverage on a crowbar wrapped in tape to avoid scuffing. A lot of hand hammering in to place and it fit. I followed these steps based on email from OM and I was happy with results.

2. When everything was finally complete and tightened to specs, I was re-assembling the brake pedal foot peg assembly as the final step. I was met with a brake pedal that hits the crash bar. UGH. This is the same bar I had to suggest into place but after that everything was lining up okay on this side. It needed little leverage and the part that hits is not possible to bend it must have come from the factory with the mounting plate holes in the wrong place or something causing it to sit further back towards the pedal. There is practically no more adjustment to lower the brake pedal and honestly it's already too low I would prefer it higher. Crash bars should not be limiting my brake pedal adjustment anyways.

Contrary to some other experiences in this thread, I have received very good communication from OM on both the delays to my order and a resolution to item #1. I just emailed them regarding item #2 I will update however I move forward.

Image
Image
 
Just a quick input. On my 850, I also had to 'persuade' the right side lower bar to align comfortably with the mounting point in the engine block. Not a lot, but more than I expected. But that could be the flaw with expectation. A 5 lb sledge and a few love taps, and I made it work. But, I don't think I should have had to do so.

The 850 has a different brake / footpeg mount than the 900's, and required some additional removal and fussing, not mentioned in their videos. I did not get the same kind communication with Lorry Gombos that you did. But who knows what was going on. I did not, however, have any problem with the brake lever coming into contact with the bars. That is surprising, as I do think the OM bars are well designed overall.

One question: do you have the OM skid plate as well? I ask because I think (emphasize think) that the mounting hardware for the skid plate was integral to the crash bar mount. I'm probably confusing things here, but wanted to throw that out anyway. I'll check my bike tomorrow and see what the clearances are.
 
I do not have the skid plate. Have not heard anything about that being required. Can anyone provide a comparison picture of the brake pedal? With or without skid plate. I feel like something is way off it shouldn't even be that close. I have tons of room on clutch pedal.

My communication has not been with Lorry, he replied to my very first email regarding shipment delays but handed me off to another employee that I have been corresponding with since then.
 
I just returned from doing the Smokey Mountain 500. I took a fall after making a novice decision while negotiating through a rocky section. All seemed fine but looked like the left side on my OM crash bar was slightly bent in.

When I got home I tried removing the crash bar and sure enough, the upper bolt had sheared. I wrote to OM and waiting for a response. I'll let you know how that goes.

Before I made the purchase, I contacted OM and voiced my concerns. He basically said that folks seem to complain on forums and no directly to him. He stands by his product. Well, we'll see.

Regardless, I do not believe ANY crashbar that uses the engine as a mount point is a 'best option'. I know there are limited mount points on the Tiger, so it's a matter of weighing pros and cons. Thankfully I can do it all over again so it's a choice between SW, Givi, and T-Rex but leaning towards SW.

Meanwhile, if anyone is in the market for a used set of OM crashbars, let me know.
 
I just returned from doing the Smokey Mountain 500. I took a fall after making a novice decision while negotiating through a rocky section. All seemed fine but looked like the left side on my OM crash bar was slightly bent in.

When I got home I tried removing the crash bar and sure enough, the upper bolt had sheared. I wrote to OM and waiting for a response. I'll let you know how that goes.

Before I made the purchase, I contacted OM and voiced my concerns. He basically said that folks seem to complain on forums and no directly to him. He stands by his product. Well, we'll see.

Regardless, I do not believe ANY crashbar that uses the engine as a mount point is a 'best option'. I know there are limited mount points on the Tiger, so it's a matter of weighing pros and cons. Thankfully I can do it all over again so it's a choice between SW, Givi, and T-Rex but leaning towards SW.

Meanwhile, if anyone is in the market for a used set of OM crashbars, let me know.
Sorry to hear about your failed bolt. Did your upper bars vibrate a lot before the bolt failure and was it noticable? How long did you have the bars installed? Did you happen to to use antisieze? I'm trying to narrow down a root cause.

The frame design is so similar to the 800s and I don't recall bolt issues there so its perplexing. I know the 800s use a bolt and nut up there verses a threaded bolt, maybe that is something, as mentioned before.

Right now I'm in the camp of no upper bars using that bolt until we have a clearer picture of why it fails.

Could it be the bolts themselves? Not the right strength or type for the application? Does anyone know why the OEM bolt is fully threaded and the aftermarket bolts aren't? Perhaps it may be worth trying different bolts?

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Sorry to hear about your failed bolt. Did your upper bars vibrate a lot before the bolt failure and was it noticable? How long did you have the bars installed? Did you happen to to use antisieze? I'm trying to narrow down a root cause.

The frame design is so similar to the 800s and I don't recall bolt issues there so its perplexing. I know the 800s use a bolt and nut up there verses a threaded bolt, maybe that is something, as mentioned before.

Right now I'm in the camp of no upper bars using that bolt until we have a clearer picture of why it fails.

Could it be the bolts themselves? Not the right strength or type for the application? Does anyone know why the OEM bolt is fully threaded and the aftermarket bolts aren't? Perhaps it may be worth trying different bolts?

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No vibration. I've had them installed for about 3 months. A couple light falls in sand with no issues. I did not use loctite or anti-seize.

It could be the bolt itself, but again, mounting the crash bar to an upper engine casing sounds like a bad idea from the start. The SW bars mount to a lower, more solid part of the engine and to the frame, then to each other with a crossbar.

Trying different bolts is not an option for me. The risk of damage should be left to the R&D department. Probably would save a lot of customers from this issue.
 
Thanks for letting us know of this failure, @Kikdrum. @flyingburritobrother had more than a few emails with Lorry, and a very public discussion on the ADV forum.

I personally emailed him about the fit issue and received relatively dismissive emails in return; basically saying that I complained more than anyone else. When I emailed him to inform him of the bolt failure, he never responded. I was never rude or demanding, as that is not the way I like to communicate. At least not until there is no other option. BTW, I did have very nice communication and service from Dual Sport Plus, who sell the bars in Canada.

I don't recall if I ever followed up with a post on ADV but maybe now is the time for the Tiger owners here to speak up. And absolutely, I don't want this to be a situation where there is no good solution; I want there to be a really good, solid crash bar system. For now, I'm leaning strongly to removing the upper bars, and keeping the lower set and the skid plate.

Attached also are a few pics of the lower bars and brake lever for @TigerArms. No clearance issue as far as I can see. No wear on the paint of the right bar.

Image

Image

Image
 
I have had two issues fitting the OM crash bars on a Tiger 900 GT Pro. One of which I haven't seen mentioned before and I'm afraid it's the final nail in the coffin of using these bars.

1. The right side lower bar needed a little bit of "suggesting" to slide the tab into place on the forward-most mounting position. I used about 10" - 12" of leverage on a crowbar wrapped in tape to avoid scuffing. A lot of hand hammering in to place and it fit. I followed these steps based on email from OM and I was happy with results.

2. When everything was finally complete and tightened to specs, I was re-assembling the brake pedal foot peg assembly as the final step. I was met with a brake pedal that hits the crash bar. UGH. This is the same bar I had to suggest into place but after that everything was lining up okay on this side. It needed little leverage and the part that hits is not possible to bend it must have come from the factory with the mounting plate holes in the wrong place or something causing it to sit further back towards the pedal. There is practically no more adjustment to lower the brake pedal and honestly it's already too low I would prefer it higher. Crash bars should not be limiting my brake pedal adjustment anyways.

Contrary to some other experiences in this thread, I have received very good communication from OM on both the delays to my order and a resolution to item #1. I just emailed them regarding item #2 I will update however I move forward.

View attachment 781961 View attachment 781962
Maybe you got a kit for the Rally Pro?

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