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DaveM:AustralianFlag

 

The HID seller is saying I'll need a CANBUS kit but IF the lighting circuits carry no CANBUS signals I don't see that it'll be required.

You dont need any CAN parts.
Just get 2-3 ordinary H7 Xenon sets with mini ballasts.

Check my singature. I have Hids too.

 

Not a 'CANBUS' vehicle. I just used H7 kit for the dips and after that you cannot even tell the main is on? Well I can just tell sort of fills in a little bit with a yellow glow. I actually used full sized ballasts and slipped them down each side of the fairing at the front under the 'top side' panels and fixed them in.

On the tiger (H4 kits) there was a ballast sized slot beside each side of the tank near the steering head. But I have managed to blow them. I had problems with a worn out battery and I think it upset them so I had to take them back off.

 

I used a kit from DDM Tuning on my Bandit, planning to do the same thng on my Sprint. They work great and the 55w bulb is blinding.
Here's a link to what I used.
https://www.ddmtuning.com/products/101/

 

Anybody have any problems with heat? I'd think the HID bulb would run a ton hotter.. and what with all the plastic....

 

Only internally, they actually dissipate less heat than a standard bulb !

 

Thanks, that's a point I wasn't aware of... I find the sprint lighting to be good enough myself, but I'm all for more lighting.

 

Macduff,

Don't doubt the HID's are a big step forward but worth searching for this thread-

"More headlight stuff - Philips X-treme bulbs"

I changed the bulbs and although it's not a perfect solution it was relatively cheap (£40) and the improvement is good enough to let me ride at night on the odd occasion when I need to.

Tartan-Sprint :beerchug

 

Macduff,

Don't doubt the HID's are a big step forward but worth searching for this thread-

"More headlight stuff - Philips X-treme bulbs"

I changed the bulbs and although it's not a perfect solution it was relatively cheap (£40) and the improvement is good enough to let me ride at night on the odd occasion when I need to.

Tartan-Sprint :beerchug

Not worth it...
I paid the same of my 2 sets of xenons, less than 60 usd.

And hids are even cheaper with ordinary ballast´s.

 

I figure it would put a ton of stress on the electrical system ie; rectifier

 

Don't understand why it would stress the system? The HIDs (well 35 Watt ones) Take ... 35 watts whereas a dip head bulb is 55 Watts. So two standard bulbs would take 110 Watts and HIDs 70 watts.

You do have to worry about in-rush current at start up. Most suppliers seems to claim slow start that keeps the inrush down to 15A for a short time 50mS. But once started they take less power.

 

Here is a link to DDM Tuning tech page. Download the pdf titled Ballast Compare Chart( too large to post here).http://tinyurl.com/2daxezb
Most HID ballasts have a starting current of 6 amps +- and a running current of 3.2 amps.

 

Even better than I thought! Very interesting reading.

Thanks for the link. I got the slow start 15A off a car HID comparison site but must have been a bit old and now out of date.

 

Even better than I thought! Very interesting reading.

John
There are many fine HID threads in this forum.
Here is a good one:http://www.triumphrat.net/sprint-forum/118569-1050-lights-again-ad-nauseum.html

 

Macduff
I bought these from ebay, UK seller and delivered in 2 days

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/H7-4300K-HID-...336415092?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5639c53d74

Took a fellow biker around 40 mins to fit,everything plugs straight in and put the ballasts in the hole behind the screen. You do need to cut the rubber bulb covers to allow the wires to come out from the bulb

 

Thanks for this. Recommendations are always good.

Think I'll give them a try. Did you just to dipped or main beam too?

 

Am I the only one who finds the stock headlights not only acceptable, but actually pretty bright? They put out a nice, even and wide spread, pretty bright...I dont see the issue. Yeah, when you lean in a curve, the beam leans with you, but its not *that* bad.

 

Am I the only one who finds the stock headlights not only acceptable, but actually pretty bright?

Yep, guess you are!

 

I'm sure the straighter the roads, the lesser the problem, but on the windy roads around here night riding with the stock 1050 lights is not pleasant at all. Disconcerting in fact.

I can't believe how poor these lights are compared to my '01. What were Triumph thinking, who tested them prior to commitment to the design, and why has it taken so long to correct (assuming the '11's lighting is much better of course)?

Do the HID upgrades so popular in here dramatically improve the spread sufficient to be comfortable for cornering, as well as the light output?

 

Lets be honest here , the sprint lights suck. The setup doesn't suit bikes at all and anything to make them brighter is just a bandaid solution to a light setup that simply does not work.
Whats needed is to transplant the new GT lights to the ST. I for one , living as I do in the yarra Ranges and riding often at night hope this can be done.
I cant believe anyone who rides at night thinks the sprint lights are any good at all. I love my sprint , but wow, I hope I can get the GT lights to fit .

 

Correction K8 the Sprint ST 1050's lights suck.

DaveM:AustralianFlag

 

If i were dissatisfied with the stock projectors with xenon bulbs, i would definitely go to this way.
http://xebritehidsystems.webs.com/bprsystem.htm

Imagine two or three 50w bi-xenons.

My friend has pair of those in his bike. /Honda

 

If i were dissatisfied with the stock projectors with xenon bulbs

You're totally happy with the straight HID install into the stock projectors?

http://xebritehidsystems.webs.com/bprsystem.htm

Am I seeing things? Their standard HID kit and their Bixenon Projector Replacement HID kits (with Angel Eyes) appear to be the same price (US$350 for slim ballasts)?

An interesting aspect of the BPR kit is the choice of bulb type, so it becomes possible to use, say, H4 rather than H7 bulbs.

The voltage protection system sounds nice too...

 

HIDs arrived today!

Not had time to check them but will try to fit tomorrow night.

 

Quite a few cars (Audi for one) have bi-xenon projectors and seem to be OK. Although they all have tungsten hi-beams to suplement the HIDs. I think that's more to do with being able to flash the headlights

Anyway, HIDs have been fitted so now I just need to see what they're like at night. With this being summer (I think!) in Scotland, it's daylight until well after 10pm so I'll have to have a later rider to test them out. It's supposed to pour tonight and my rear tyre is verging on illegal so I'll probably give tonight a miss. Getting a new pair of Roadsmarts tomorrow evening so will try them out then

Was fairly easy to fit the HIDs. Ballasts are in the void above the high beam. Trickiest bits were getting the wires for both down the narrow gap behind high beam and also cutting a nice hole in the rubber covers. I'll need to use some silicon seal to ensure that they are watertight.

 

2010 Headlights on a 2006 ST.....

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/2006-TRIUMPH-SPRINT-ST-1050-PACIFIC-BLUE-/290448584623?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item43a015afaf

I think I like that .... I think .....

Not too many 2010 donor bikes around I'm guessing

Neo

 

Argh!

Must be coincidence but my indicators, brake light and horn have all stopped working. Fuse blows as soon as the ignition is turned on

I've checked the wiring and can see nothing that was disturbed when I fitted the HIDs.

Must be a short somewhere but this could take some finding. Has this happened to anyone before?

 

HIDs do draw a lot of current on start up and this may be the reason you are blowing the fuse. You may need a relay set up although most people seem to get away with using the standard wiring.

I would replace the fuse and reconnect the HIDs one at a time. This will identify whether one is faulty or whether you are drawing too much current on start up.

 

Headlights are going through a different fuse so can't be that. I've disconnected them anyway for now but the fuse still blows. Can't see any problems with the wiring around the area I was working. Going to remove the HIDs completely for now try to work out *** is going on.

Going to book it in as well just in case I can't fix it.

 

The plot thickens

Sorry, it's an 09

Had a look again tonight. My thinking was something in the LHS handlebar as it all happened when I cancelled the indicators. Thinking back, I remember accidentally catching the horn and that's the last time horn, indicators or brake light worked.

So, I opened the switch to take a look but couldn't see anything obvious. Didn't want to dismantle too far since this could be a warranty job. Tried the ignition again and the main 30A fuse blew.

So, I think something major has gone wrong with the wiring for the bar switch. Can't see how that could be anything to do with the HIDs but who knows.

 

Modded Projectors

I bought a couple of projector units to fit in my Sprint and these have a solenoid in them that moves the cut-off shield in the projector down when high beam is on, these give a far better light on low beam and a brilliant high beam. Since taking these pictures I have also added HIDs to them and they are now fantastic.

 

Details?

I bought a couple of projector units to fit in my Sprint .

G'day,

Can you provide some info on where to get 'em and price?

Cheers John

 

Macduff
You really need to stop digging around in the electrics and get that bike to your dealer before things get very expensive.

 

Given the reputation of the dealer I have to use, it'll be expensive and badly done anyway. However electrics aren't really my thing. Give me mechanicals to work on any day.

 

Hi Markovich,

Yes I replaced both the low beam units. The cut-off shield is hinged and is connected to the solenoid. This in turn takes a feed from the high beam so when you switch to high beam, the solenoids pull the cut-off shield down giving you all 3 lights operating as a high beam instead of 2 dip and 1 high. This means you actually have a high beam that you can see down the road with instead of just a blue light on the display.
The light output from these projectors on dip beam is also vastly increased over the standard beam, giving a greater spread and brighter light, although these still have a very defined cut-off as per all projector lights.

 

...all 3 lights operating as a high beam instead of 2 dip and 1 high.

Thanks for the info. Now that's what I wanted to hear!

This means you actually have a high beam that you can see down the road with instead of just a blue light on the display.

Know what you mean...the blue light blinds you more than high beam blinds oncoming cars.

...although these still have a very defined cut-off as per all projector lights.

Whoever thought they ever belonged on motorcycles should be shot!

So the final choice is either these projectors (as a great sounding improvement), or retrofit the new '11 lighting system/cockpit cover (after hearing that they actually are a good or better improvement). I suspect your solution would be the more economic of the two.

BTW, I couldn't find more than a text reference to projectors on Furore Cars' site. How did you identify them? I need to speak with him directly for the low-down on these?