My T100 has been getting Rotella T6 since it was broken in. The motor still runs new with 30k on it.

I only use T6 in my V-Strom 1000 and my little CB350 with good results.


You need to read the back of the bottle the certifications. JASO MA means its rated for wet clutch motorcycles.

 

Didn't they recently change the formula and now it's no longer safe for motorcycles?

 

There are 2 grades of Rotella T-6, 5W40 is JASO MA rated, 0W40 is not JASO MA rated.
https://rotella.shell.com/products/full-synthetic-and-blend-oil/t6-full-synthetic.html


Rex

 

I know my most recent 5w40 no longer had that cert so I used it in my car instead.

 

Unless they have recently changed it, I've used it in multiple bikes for years with no issues

 

It was a pretty recent change. I'd double check your bottle.

 

I think the issue with it is that it doesn't have any sort of "S" rating meaning it is not spark rated.

 

What is "spark rated"?


Rex

 

Thanks for the replies guys.
I checked my jug and it is JASO MA rated. I'll make sure future jugs have it too before using it in the bike.

 

It means it's good for vehicles with spark plugs not just compression fired vehicles like a diesel.

 

There are two categories: gasoline and diesel. Category S is for “Spark Ignition”, for Gasoline and category C is for “Compression Ignition’, for Diesel. For both, the letter S or C is followed by another letter. For example, SM or CF. The higher the letter, the more recent the technology of the oil. For recent oil, the higher specification will supersede the lower letter grade. For example, if we have an oil with specification SN, it can also be used for vehicles which request API SM, SL and SJ; it is backward compatible.

 

What if people are using C only rated oil in a spark ignition engine?

 

Good question....and I do it all the time in my car and bike. Lawnmower and snowblower too for that matter.

 

The cost difference isn't worth the possible risk for me so I just get the correctly rated oil.

 

T-6 is JASO rated plus it is SM,SL, SH for gas aspirated. Not concerned in the least....and I've used it for years in all mentioned above.

 

Check the bottle because there's no "S" cert on mine.

 

Check the bottle because there's no "S" cert on mine.

Not surprised due to formula, bottle and label changes. When Shell reformulates as was the Rotella line from CJ-4 to the CK (since 2016) the cost of recertifying every specification is obscene not to mention the time involved. As the re-certs are completed new labeling etc takes time.

As mentioned in my previous post all JASO oils must meet API quality levels of SH

 

JASO is all that is required.

 

Double check your manual because an "S" Rating is required as well.

 

Here's a thumbs down on the Rotella T6 diesel oil. Why? I used T5 for many years in various cars and motorcycles. I soured on T5 the first time I heard bearing knock at idle from my SV1000S. ***? The oil was fresh and the bike had only approximately 17K on the engine. I later confirmed that even MA rated diesel isn't a good choice for a motorcyle. One of my sources was - https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/20/motor-oil-wear-test-ranking/ . I switched oils and there is no more bearing knock on the SV now at 24K miles. I'm running Mobil 0W40 European oiil designed for high revving turbo engines in both the SV and my TT600 with no clutch slippage. If you've ever seen an SV clutch you'd know there's nothing that could make it slip anyway. I'll take my chances on a clutch slipping in the TT in exchange for superb engine protection (see 540ratblog). Clutch plates can be rehabbed or replaced without too much trouble. Rings, bearings, etc. not so much.

 

So you've rebuilt motors before? believe me if a bottom end bearing "knocked" no oil would solve that, it means at BDC or there about the shell is worn and there is no metal to metal contact until the surfaced move, you don't want movement. Could have been cam chain or other internals but not the bottom end.

 

I have used Rotella T6 for years and never had an issue. I have ran it 5K and done an oil sample with no issues. It has the JASO rating so nothing to worry about. Most bike forums list it as their favorite oil. Lots and lots of bike riders use it without issue.

 

Hope this may add some insight:

https://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/JASO_MA_JASO_MB.php

In order for a motor oil to meet any of the above mentioned JASO standards it must be at least of one of the following quality levels:
•API SG, SH, SJ, SL, SM
•ILSAC GF-1, GF-2, GF-3
•ACEA A1/B1, A3/B3, A3/B4, A5/B5, C2, C3

 

So you're saying it needs to meet one of them? So unless that one is the first bullet point then it's still not to correct certification.

 

I did a little research and found that the issue seems that the elevated level of zinc and phosphorous are a little high for SN so rather than try and hurt the flat tapped diesel market they make two oils. As mentioned JASO is a gas spec.

If you want to see the difference side by side https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4490450/Shell_Rotella_T6_5W40_CJ-4/SM_#Post4490450

Bottom line if you have a new car or bike that is calling for a SN rated oil and you have a warranty you might not want to use it. If your machine is a little older and calls for an older spec then you are fine.

 

So again, the typical oil thread which gets everyone nowhere. I'll continue to use the correct oil. I never understood how someone could spend $11,12,13,14,000 on a motorcycle but then cut corners on oil. If an oil company can't afford the correct certification then I'm all set not using their oil. I get the correct oil on Amazon for pretty cheap and I don't even have to go to a store to get it.

 

So again, the typical oil thread which gets everyone nowhere. I'll continue to use the correct oil. I never understood how someone could spend $11,12,13,14,000 on a motorcycle but then cut corners on oil. If an oil company can't afford the correct certification then I'm all set not using their oil.

Look at my thread again. It isn't about affording the correct cert, it is about the EPA making changes in the oil and states like California not allowing older spec oils on the shelf. The current T6 has too much of some additive packages, though those are the same additive packages that people go after for metal to metal contact. (look into the flat tappet issues of about a decade ago) Diesel oil because of a lot of flat tappet applications is allowed higher amounts of those additives than SN rated oils. The debate is if those higher additive packages hurt catalytic converters or not. (I have a 30 year old pickup with over 200K that ran those high additive packages for decades and still has the original catalytic converter and still passes emissions with flying colors.)

I won't go into the debate that other additives can replace the zinc and the phosphorous and their effectiveness.

Basically what you have is a regulatory closing of a loophole. If you understand the chemistry feel free and safe to use the oil. If you don't or it does bother you to use spark rated oil then have at it. Do whatever lets you sleep at night. The reason I would still use it because I see it as a better oil than some of the "correct" oils.

 

I haven't gone over that with a fine tooth comb but, I'm seeing a date of 2013 at the bottom? There's a new formula since then.

 

If you were to go to my post #4 in this thread, click on the link to Shell's T-6 site and scroll down
you'll find the .pdf link to the 2017 brochure for 5W40 T-6.


Rex

 

2017 or not, there's still no "S" cert in that info. When push comes to shove and guys are trying to get stuff covered under warranty there's a good chance they'll be in trouble. I realize some of you aren't under warranty but a lot that lurk these forums are.

 

.......When push comes to shove and guys are trying to get stuff covered under warranty there's a good chance they'll be in trouble.

Please, are you telling us that a dealer can tell one oil from another?

Rex

 

Ahh, yes. Especially when you've done your own service. They'll want receipts and they'll also send out an oil sample. I worked in a Honda motorcycle service dept, the manufacturer wants a lot of information when it comes to covering warranty work like that.

 

Are you saying that YOU KNOW of HONDA paying for oil analysis, and not just a regular one, but to determine the BRAND of oil used to deny a warranty? No chance.

 

Yummy!



Rex