What year /model is the bike?

Don't you have a monaural?
If you are new to britbikes then trying to do anything without a manual is risky

 

Sorry about that. I thought it was posted in my info.
It's a '67 T100 Tiger.
I have a manual I found online but the procedure doesn't make much sense to me.

 

Did you remove the locking ring? I think it's left hand threads. Be sure to loosen that little black locking screw with the allen head on it. On my 650 model I had to dislodge the center distance piece after removing the locking ring and then come from the other side and knock the bearing out. You have to dislodge the center distance piece in order for your drift to be able to catch the inner lip of the grease cup. You end up destroying the grease cup but sometimes you can straighten it out with a hammer when you get it out.

There was a thread started back on 10-2-2014 titled Rear Wheel Bearings 1970 T120R where I posted some pictures of the rear wheel assembly minus the center distance piece. Go to post #9 of that thread and you can see some photos of the assembly of parts. It might be a good idea to read the whole thread....Gary

 

Thanks. I'll take a look.

 

I just did this same job last week on my '70 T100R. My rear wheel locking ring was normal thread. Front wheel ring was Left hand thread and had a big "Left" stamped on it.

Remove the allen screw, then use the right pin wrench to back out the locking ring. I put a piece of threaded rod through the hub with some large washers to hold the tool tight into the pin holes. I used a some penetrating oil overnight, then a propane torch to heat up the outside of the hub and the ring came out easily. I bought a slide handle gear puller, heated up the outside of the hub w/ propane torch and the bearings popped right out. There is a spacer tube between the two bearings that prevents you from easily using a drift to drive the bearings out from the inside.

Lock ring tool: http://www.ebay.com/itm/400365866588?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Bearing puller: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B016W8GSQ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some people have mentioned being able to use a Rawl bolt to drive the bearings out, but I couldn't find one in the right size at any of the local hardware stores.

Good luck!
M

 

You don't need a special puller just knock the center distance piece out (the manual says to "dislodge" it with a drift) of the way with your drift and then take your drift and come from the other side through the hub and knock the bearing out....Gary

 

I tried pretty hard to knock it out of the way and just couldn't get a good angle on it. It was wedged pretty tightly between the two bearings. I tried prying sideways with a brake spoon and also tried knocking with a brass drift. I was pretty sure I would find other uses for the puller and the job was so easy once I had it.

M

 

mmanasas: I tried pretty hard to knock it out of the way and just couldn't get a good angle on it. It was wedged pretty tightly between the two bearings. I tried prying sideways with a brake spoon and also tried knocking with a brass drift.

Maybe the 500's are a little different than the 650 rear wheels.??? I was looking at my 650 manual so there could be a difference. My 650 manual showed a picture of them knocking that distance tube out of the way from the same side where the locking ring was before it was removed. The manual said that the inner grease cup would be damaged while trying to dislodge the tube. It was about 4 years ago that I did mine but I kind of remember having to hit it kind of hard to dislodge it.
If Part_Timer has the time and money to get a proper puller or extractor of some sort he might want to go that way. I have a tendency to be impatient sometimes. That has also cost me a lot of grief and money at times.
I really like those 70 500's! They're cool little bikes!!! Wish I had one.....Gary

 

I managed to get the lock ring off without too much difficulty. But I can't seem to move the spacer tube between the bearings. I'll try again later, but it looks like I'll be finding a bearing puller.

 

I was just looking at a pick of the hub after I got one of the bearings out. At the far side you can see the grease retainer. The spacer tube rides inside the grease retainer. I can't remember which end of the spacer tube I was trying to pry aside, but it's pretty obvious from the photo there was no way I was going to pry the non-drive side off center. The grease retainer was holding it in place. If I had tried tapping / prying the spacer end near the drive side I might have had more luck.

M

 

I got the bearing puller but there was still no room for the jaws to hook on. So I gave up on being nice. I jammed a crowbar into the hole and gave it some love. The spacer moved and after that it all came apart easy. I did, however, damage the washer/grease retainer. I can see that the one side was much easier to deform than the other.
Now I am at peace....at least for another 5 minutes.
Thanks for all your suggestions

 

Hey Part_Timer - Do you have your wheel back together? I finally started rebuilding mine and have run into an issue with the speedo drive rubbing against the hub. It's almost as if the short distance piece needs to be 2-3mm longer.

Did all go OK for you?

Regards
Mark

 

I've been caught up with my daily driver and some other projects. Haven't done much work on the Triumph lately. I'll look at it tomorrow and let you know what I find. Hopefully I can give you some insight.

 

Looks like I won't be able to tell until I put it all back together with new bearings that I don't have yet.
Sorry.
Good luck!

 

Hey Part_Timer - when you do get back to this you might want to check out my writeup of how I fixed my speedo-drive-rubbing-on-the-hub-issue.

Good luck!
Mark