The T120 runs too lean stock like most today to get emission control. You need a tune for that reason. The pods and the exhaust honestly don't flow much better than stock. So you don't need a tune for the pods and exhaust.

 

Interesting, I've heard rave reviews about the pods over stock for the 2016-2020 models. Either way, thanks for the input

 

That proves how hard it can be to evaluate what you read. Especially when the one asking the question obviously doesn't know the answer. What do you do when you get opposing solutions?

I just use my best judgement on who I listen to.

I like my DNK tune. I think it was the best couple of hundred bucks I spent on my T120.

 

That proves how hard it can be to evaluate what you read. Especially when the one asking the question obviously doesn't know the answer. What do you do when you get opposing solutions?

I just use my best judgement on who I listen to.

I like my DNK tune. I think it was the best couple of hundred bucks I spent on my T120.

What other mods did you do in addition to the tune?

 

At the risk of not knowing what I’m talking about, the catalytic converter is the biggest restriction in the intake-outtake system. Adding slip ons after the cat or pod filters before the cat isn’t going to move significantly more air through the system. If you want more power, open up the intake and exhaust, get a PCV and have it properly dyno tuned. Perhaps DNK has already done this.

 

I think I agree, although the slip-ons really improved the sound IMO. Until I'm ready to do a cat delete (not sure how I feel about it from at least legal, environmental, and sound perspectives), I'm sticking with just slip-ons. A bit of a let down because I love tinkering with the bike haha

 

'Retuning' means I changed the original factory tune to one that was modified by DNK. The parts I added are as I listed. In that order of installation. After these parts were added is when I changed from the stock tune to the DNK one. Does that clear it up?

 

Yep, but I think it also supports avoiding the tune unless I'm gonna de-cat

 

“whereas the tech said the tune is bad for the Euro 5 (2022+) models.”

This sounds like BS. DNK sells tunes for the 2022 T120. You specify the mods you made and the tune is supposedly tailored to them. This includes the completely stock bike. You will have to decide how well your bike runs but I doubt that the tech has even seen a DNK map. When I bought mine from DNK, it was unlocked. I could look at it and edit it. I hear the DNK tunes are now locked - you can load them but you can’t even look at them.

 

“whereas the tech said the tune is bad for the Euro 5 (2022+) models.”

This sounds like BS. DNK sells tunes for the 2022 T120. You specify the mods you made and the tune is supposed to be tailored to them.

I can see why you'd say that but the tech refunded me for the tune and pods because I didn't want the x pipe, so I don't think he was trying to upsell me. He said "DNK has never tuned for that specific configuration, so it would just be a guess on their part"

 

I cannot speak about Euro5 compatibility. I'd contact Danielle @ DNK. She's the one that does this shi...stuff.!!

The x-pipe raised the volume a little more. The volume raised a lot more after the mufflers went on. I did like it.. I know this doesn't really help you, but pretty hard to describe in words.

 

IMHO there is more than enough power and torque in the standard T120 set up for 99% of riding on the road. I have left the engine alone on my 2019 T120 Diamond except for a booster plug, Sleeper Pro slip-ons and removing the snorkel from the air box. The mods that made the biggest difference to my bike was changing the rear sprocket from 37 to 40 teeth and putting a decent set of tyres on it (Avon Sprint ST's); makes the bike much more tractable in the urban environment where I do 80% of my riding. There are plenty of ways to improve the bike without mucking around with the donk; tyres, suspension seat and other farkles can take up lots of time and money are almost universally totally reversible. That's my $0.02 worth.

 

I really appreciate your $0.02. I think I'm going to leave it as is. I don't think I can do the booster plug with a Euro 5 bike, and anyways, I haven't been experience any of the low-throttle snatchiness people complain about (and it's not for lack of trying - I live in Manhattan).

Curious what the reason for the increase in rear sprocket teeth was?

 

Here is a recent post from a thread called "Sprocket". You can search in this forum for sprockets or gearing and get all the info you want. Basically it is pretty well agreed that the T120 is over geared for urban riding; I got sick of having to change down all the way to first gear to go round a right angled corner, and our Nanny State speed limits meant the bike would not sit at comfortable revs at 40, 50 or 60 kph.

You can change the front sprocket for a 16 tooth which is standard on the Thruxton or change the rear from a 37 to anything between 39 and 42. The effect is to lower the gear ratio (confusingly making it higher numerically) so that the bike revs higher for a given road speed. This in turn has two benefits: 1) the motor can make its power earlier on in when accelerating and therefore (theoretically) make for quicker off the line response; and 2) makes the bike more tractable around town, eg allowing you to make right angle turns in second gear rather than having to downshift to first . I run a 40 tooth rear and stock 17 front after a bit of playing around as it just makes the bike nicer to ride at low urban speeds.

My $0.02 worth. Attached is a comparison chart I did a couple of years ago. Column 2 is the final drive ratio, Column 3 is the increase over stock.

 

Thanks! Have you found that gearing it towards urban riding had a detrimental effect when cruising at highway speeds?

 

The lower gearing has meant an increase in revs throughout the range, but here in Nanny Land you can’t legally exceed 110kph (about 70 mph) on the road. That equates to about 3200 rpm, as I recall, which the bike will comfortably do all day. If you are going to cruise at higher speeds, say 80 mph or more, regularly you should still be between 4000 and 4500 revs which again shouldn’t be problematic, all things being equal. There will also be a slight increase in gas mileage, but if that is a real issue you’re on the wrong bike.😬

 

Thanks for the info. I checked yesterday - I was at 3400 rpm at 80 mph. I prioritize comfortable cruising so I think I'm going to stick with it for now, but again I appreciate the input!