Looked up the fault code in Haynes... “CAN-bus network communication fault with immobilizer ECM”

Feels like the issue is with the immobilizer. I wonder if there’s a way to bypass it?


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Sounds to me like a bad connection between ECM and the immobilizer. 1st thing to try is making sure all connections look secure. Turning the ignition switch numerous times may be making the bad connection good temporarily. So I’d look in that area too.

 

Has yours had the fix for the wiring by the headstock/handlebars, apparently the wires can rub through thereabouts.

 

I’ve had it in for the headstock fix/recall. Wires all look good around the headstock.

I’ve got the tank off and pulled the immobilizer out. Connections all look good and secure. I even opened it up to see if maybe there’s a little battery in there or something. FYI: There’s is not.

I’ll keep following the wires along the harness to make sure it looks good... might have to hand this one off to the dealer to figure out.

The inside of the immobilizer looks like this if anyone was wondering.

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Possible fix found here... T120 immobilizer wouldn't disengage

Tried spraying electrical contact cleaner in the ignition and that allows me to start the bike. Not sure if it’s a permanent fix or if it’s just temporary. Not sure I trust it enough to turn the bike off far from home.

I did find a spot on the wiring harness near the headstock that has rubbed a small hole through the harness wrap. But there doesn’t appear to be any damage to the wires underneath. At least I should be able to ride it to the dealer to have them look it over.


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Hi Dan,

Did you ever get your situation straightened out? I'm following along to see if I can learn from your situation. I just purchased a '19 Street Twin that was in a minor accident. Bent forks and broken front wheel. Everything else was undamaged. While replacing the bent stuff, I turned on the key, and it won't crank over. I think I hear the starter relay click, but nothing else.

I did the "hold I button down and turn key on", and got the codes P1521 and P1650. So I'm searching for solutions to those problems. Also too, the little wrench is blinking on the instrument display.

Thanks much,

 

Bear in mind they could be old codes, you really need TuneEcu/dealertool to clear the codes and see if they re-appear.
does the fuel pump run initially when you switch on?
Check the clutch switch wasn't damaged in the accident.

 

For me, spraying electrical contact cleaner in the ignition helped, but the starting issue eventually returned. I took it to the dealership to figure out and now they’re replacing the wiring harness under warranty... I won’t get the bike back for a few more days, but I’ll let you know how it goes.

 

Dan,
What exactly does the immobilizer do when it is working as planned? On mine, I put the key in, turn it on, and everything on the gauge blinks, goes through its speedo sweep, etc. But, when I move the red start switch to the Run position, I don't hear any clicking or whirring of the fuel pump.

I thought the immobilizer would not allow anything to turn on.

Thanks,

 

when I move the red start switch to the Run position, I don't hear any clicking or whirring of the fuel pump.

Are you stopping the motor with the kill switch as a normal procedure and then leaving the switch in the engine stop position? The engine should be stopped with the key only, so that the ECU has a chance to go through it's complete shut-down cycle.

That said, my riding buddy likes to kill his Thrux R with the side stand switch. No adverse effects yet that I've seen, but that's really not how it should be done.

 

This afternoon I checked all of the basic items... starter solenoid, clutch lever switch, on-off-start switch, battery, and it seems the immobilizer is "on" (?). The little bell symbol is lit up on my dash when I turn on the key, and it does not go off. Plus the fuel pump does not cycle on, and it won't crank over.

Now it's pointing to the immobilizer, and I have only one key, so what can I do about it? Can I clear the immobilizer myself? Can the dealer clear it or re-program it? Can I unplug it and just go without it?

Any thoughts from anyone that had these issues and how did they resolve them?

Thanks,

 

I would remove the tank and check the immobiliser first, if its had a front impact serious enough to bend the forks/wheel then it could have dislodged a connector or something.
Was it bought private or from a salvage yard, there has been cases of places removing parts or swapping them around between bikes without realising the consequences.

 

I did remove the tank and check everything out, and all seem fine. The black plastic antenna around the ignition switch is fine and so is the wiring. I took the immobilizer out and checked plugs, etc., and they are solid too.

I've seen a few old posts about people wishing to remove the immobilizer and installing some jumper wires to make the bike think it's still there. But, I have not seen any of them respond back to report that they were successful or not. I'm afraid to try that... worried about frying something costly.

When I get the forks and wheel back on, I'll probably visit my local dealer. Unless... someone does report back with some kind of success .

Thanks and have a Happy Halloween!

 

I've seen a few old posts about people wishing to remove the immobilizer and installing some jumper wires to make the bike think it's still there

That was on the older bikes, I think the alarm is linked out with jumper wires if its not fitted but the standard immobiliser as you probably know is a module on the CANbus and can't just be linked out.
It may be something with the CANbus wiring rather than the immobiliser itself because you have an ABS module CAN fault as well, its unlikely both units are faulty.

 

I see. Every time I see posts about that crazy immobilizer, I learn a little more.

Thank you,

 

Just a thought... isn't there a "tip over" sensor on these bikes that might not react well to a crash?

 

Yes, there is a tip-over switch. I'll have to check that. Any suggestions, or are you familiar with it?

Thanks,

 

Sorry, I've never tipped over... on a bike.

 

Thanks scrambler4me,

I just came back from my local dealer and had a good talk with the service guys. They said the tip-over switch simply resets any time you turn the key off-on. Plus, they said the immobilizer is controlled by their OBD tools, and can be re-programmed. So when I get the replacement wheel back on the bike, I'll take it to them and let them work their magic, and reset things with the one key I have (and probably a replacement one too).

Thanks,

 

Just to add to this discussion:

I have 2020 Speed Twin with 10,000 miles on it. This morning I started up the bike and rode to work. I noticed that one of the warning light was on. The bike rode fine. When I got to work, I found the thread to show how to retrieved the fault code, and it was P1650. BTW, I didn't notice the blinking wrench light. When I start up the bike to ride home, the light was not there anymore. I hope it's nothing serious. I'll report if it comes back on.

 

Hi Dan, How you fix it,
I'm having the same problem with my Street twin.

Thank you

 

i have a street cup with the same problem, today dont start, the ligth bell is on.....p 1650 and p 1695 codes are in the tune ecu

 

Replacing new Immobilizer Ignition Ring