I was hoping that someone with direct experience of the TR627's would chime in for you.

While I don't have experience with these particular Öhlins I have an öhlins monoshock on my 91 Kawasaki zxr750, the rebound adjuster goes quite stiff at max and as it is wound out the clicks become less noticable, but it's only the last few (half dozen) that aren't felt as definite clicks and only the last couple that have no resistance.
My guess is that your shocks are either not correctly set up for the fitted springs and thus inadequate damping or they are tired and need a rebuild with fresh oil and gas.

 

I'll relate what I've learned the last couple of days about shocks. To reset everything to ohlins stock, you need to lift the bike so there's no weight on the rear wheel, back off the preload to minimum, then zero the compression and rebound, and then dial in the number of clicks you need, then set the sag with your weight on the bike and adjust the preload so that the eye-to-eye length minus the compressed length is equal to the preload specification for your shock. (Dampers have a happy place in their stroke and the purpose of preload is to adjust the piston up or down to be in that happy place with your weight on the bike). It sounds to me like your compression damping is out of whack, or the preload is set so badly that the damper isn't doing its job.

(One does not match a spring to a shock - you match the spring to the rider's weight).

 

Mike and Little Miss,

My shocks act exactly how Mike describes, which does not sound right to me!!

The bike was set up for aggressive riding by a shop that is experienced in suspensions. I now live somewhere else. I wonder if it was set up too aggressive with "too" much spring for my "current" ... slower riding style. Plus the roads here in the UK, just plain suck compared to Houston Texas!

I will attempt to re-zero the shocks as noted above and start over. I don't think it will hurt. There is also an Ohlins dealer and suspension guru about 100 miles away. I might pay him a visit; post- Covid lockdown. Thanks for the replies above; they have helped!

 

Apparently many shops make the mistake of setting preload based on the sag of a fixed point on the bike say, a footpeg, instead of measuring it along the length of the shock. If the shock sits at 45 degrees, using a vertical measurement gives you double the preload! Or vice versa, this depends on the shock manufacturer too. I've looked through my ohlins manual and am none the wiser.

 

You might want to read my thread about setting the suspension sag. It should help you understand the preliminary adjustments to your suspension.....if the static sag and rider sag range can't be achieved then fiddling with your shocks/forks is just pissing in the wind.


Biker cc I'm inclined to agree with you, it sounds like stronger springs have been fitted but the damping valving hasn't been revalved to suit the spring, therefore putting the useable damping range at the extreme of the adjuster.

 

The springs should have a code printed on them to double check to see what type of spring is installed if you think its too stiff for your application.

 

My Ohlins seem to have no adjustment on rebound. The adjuster is very difficult to turn on both shocks. Once bottomed out to the right I can then turn the adjuster back with clear and difficult clicks at first and after a few the clicks are not discernable. There should be 15 clicks of adjustment. I am thinking these are pretty well screwed up! Ideas?

During riding the back end is too harsh; on flat tarmac it is very good; as soon as I hit your average pot holed B-road I have a hard time keeping up with anyone! My head starts shaking about and it gets difficult to hold on! Ideas?


Chris

Hi, have you figure out if there is some problem with your Ohlins? i have the very same issue, means I feel / hear just up to approx 5 click, but not even close to 15 clicks recommended in the Ohlins manual (no matter if on/off the bike). I'm not able to find decent setup in connection with my new Andreani cartridges, I would say it is worse than the stock suspension 12y/40k miles old. Unfortunately I bought TR 627 second hand, claimed with just few thousand miles, but not sure if it is damaged, or need some maintenance or it is common and I'm just lame with setting up the suspension.

If there is anyone with STX 36 Twin shock, could you check how many click do you feel?

 

Hi, have you figure out if there is some problem with your Ohlins? i have the very same issue, means I feel / hear just up to approx 5 click, but not even close to 15 clicks recommended in the Ohlins manual (no matter if on/off the bike). I'm not able to find decent setup in connection with my new Andreani cartridges, I would say it is worse than the stock suspension 12y/40k miles old. Unfortunately I bought TR 627 second hand, claimed with just few thousand miles, but not sure if it is damaged, or need some maintenance or it is common and I'm just lame with setting up the suspension.

Not lame, I'm sure. Normal, maybe. I have found through I'm-a-dumbass experience that very few mechanics even understand suspension. People talk about sag, for example, without understanding that all that setting does is divide the available travel between compression and extension, and the best you can do is pick the spot that will be the least wrong in most situations. The same applies to rebound damping... people choose a setting that will suit aggressive riding they rarely do, without accounting for the fact that the rest of the time, that wheel is going to get slammed back to the ground after every deflection. It's all compromises. Probably the most tiresome unsolicited advice I ever blather is, "find a suspension shop and pay them to set the bike up for you." It's amazing the difference it makes, as track rats will tell you.

 

My Scrambler 1200xc came with no two shocks set the same; similar, but not the same. I found the shock rebound adjustment knobs stiff to turn. I simply worked them all the way in, then all out, then all in and back out again. Then I did the settings according to the manual. Two weeks and a lot of rough bouncing later, I repeated the process. I found that there was a small section in the turns of the rebound damping adjuster much like as @pRst describes; it only allowed 4-5 clicks then got very stiff. This stiff section started almost all the way to clockwise. I had to use a little more force turning counter-clockwise to get through it. I worked back and forth through it a few times and it loosened up.

One thing that helped me with the rebound adjusters pointy star knob was an E-18 socket (Harbor Freight item #68016). No, I did not use a ratchet or bar; I only used the socket and my fingers. The bare socket helped get over that stiff patch in the turn cycle to continue counting up to the required 18 clicks. Mechanics gloves would probably have helped too, but they didn't provide the sensitivity I needed to feel the clicks.

Just a note in case someone is reading about this the first time: Öhlins Rebound and Compression adjustments start with the knobs fully clockwise, then backed out widdershins the number of clicks shown in the manual. Always check the manual before and after every adjustment to assure you got the count right.

 

No I actually sold the bike. I was quite unhappy with the Ohlins. I think I might have damaged the adjustment turning it full in and full out. But reading the above makes me think it was not me! I now have a Speed Twin; full Nitron set up ... much better!

 

Thanks guys, for your advice and remarks, I'll contact some Ohlins service shop and let you know if there was something wrong. If there will be anyone else with Ohlins Twin shocks who would try how many clicks they have on their pair, it's still much appreciated.