If the chain loses one o-ring it's pretty much time to replace it. I tend to get 30-35k miles out of a chain, lubing every 500ish and lubing and cleaning every 1-1.5k. There's something wrong if you're going through them this quickly, and I honestly can't remember losing o-rings inside the sprocket cover ever. What kind of chain? Does it have enough slack? How often do you check the slack?

My last chain only lasted about 6,000 miles, but I'm blaming that on the manufacturer (JT). X-rings are massively better than o-rings.

Cheers,
-Kit

 

If the chain loses one o-ring it's pretty much time to replace it.

Absolutely!

My last chain only lasted about 6,000 miles, but I'm blaming that on the manufacturer (JT).

Try not to write JT off just yet. I have 25,000km on my Z1R 525 and still going well on the 1290. For me they work out as an economical option because I can get a complete set for around US$110.

I'm missing a few. Name brand chain, can't remember which brand. I don't scrub my chain, so they are disappearing on their own. I just make sure I get oil into those links when I lube. The chain is fairly low mileage and I have no plans to replace it because of this.

The chain is toast!

The rings keep the grease in and crap out. No amount of lubing can save it and now the pins will just flog out inside the bushings.

When they snap, they just lay down on the road...if you're lucky.

 

Are you cleaning using a coarse brush?

 

I'm missing a few. Name brand chain, can't remember which brand. I don't scrub my chain, so they are disappearing on their own. I just make sure I get oil into those links when I lube. The chain is fairly low mileage and I have no plans to replace it because of this.

 

I'm using a grunge brush to clean the old lube off with kerosene as the cleaner.

I lost a ring withing the first 1000 miles of the new chain and didn't realize what it was at the time. The recent ones have collected in the front sprocket cover and they might be an x ring. I'll take a closer look when I get home tomorrow. It's a RK chain I know that.

I haven't measure the slack otherthan a quick eyeballing so I'll do that as well. The bike sure feels smooth too though...

 

I cleaned using a Grunge Brush and kerosene ONCE and ended up buying a new chain shortly thereafter.
In the future I'm just going to wipe down with an oily rag.

 

I stopped using the Grunge brush as well. If I need a brush, I will use a used soft tooth brush carefully. To be honest, I don't do much cleaning. Just a rag with some kerosene. A rag as well with some 30W non detergent motor oil to lube. Just keeping the plates free of surface rust. For years in Boston my bike sat over the winter outside cocooned under a tarp. I would cover the chain with marine bearing grease and then clean off in the spring with kero. Never had any surface rust.

 

These guys here can hook you up.
http://www.triumphrat.net/sprocket-...-center/811922-check-out-our-redesigned-website-and-forum-member-discounts.html

I went with the DID X-Ring chain on the Tiger when I Grunged Brushed the original chain to death.
Anybody want to buy a pre-loved Grunge Brush? Supplies are limited, ACT NOW!!!

 

it's only been 200 miles but given the missing ring I figured it's better to be on top of it than wait for something bad to happen. I've been going 400 mile intervals.

Just used kerosene and a rag and it seemed to work fine.

 

I use something a lot like a Grunge Brush, but with a stupid, punny, name, and WD-40 instead of kerosene as a solvent. Turning the rear wheel by hand to advance the chain; ain't gonna risk my fingers!

My JT chain didn't lose any o-rings, but at 6k it had loose and tight spots way outside of spec and was just generally done. I'll still use their sprockets happily, but at this point I don't trust them to manufacture anything more complex.

Cheers,
-Kit

 

Never had a chain lose an o-ring until the last chain I installed on my TT.

Always kept it clean and lubed. No grunge brush, just a rag in kerosene.

lost 5 o-rings in a row about halfway around the chain from the rivet link. All 5 links were burnt blue. Parked the bike that day and chucked the chain in the garbage. Might of had 500 miles on it. Can't remember the brand but replaced it with a JT chain.

 

measured my chain tension, stiffest spot has 3/4" of movement and the loosest place has 1 1/4" sounds like it needs a bit of loosening, yes?


[update] adjusted it to 1 1/2" of slack. now for a test ride....not that i know what to look for from a chain adjustment.

 

.not that i know what to look for from a chain adjustment.

Whoa, acceleration is much smoother! Last time I tried to adjust it things were frustrating and I wasn't successful. This time it was much easier (apart from the fiddly wrench). Hooray for new wrenching skills!

 

I've never used a grunge brush. Always seemed counter intuitive to use a stiff brush on a rubber 'o' ring and seems very possible to actually force crap past an 'O' ring and into the rollers. WD 40 is what i clean with using a 3/4" soft bristle disposable paint brush. Usually I just re-spray with WD, wipe it off and call it a day. I know WD 40 is not really much of a lube but that's what the grease being sealed in with the 'O' rings is for. I don't think actual chain lube does much to lube the sprockets anyway as it all gets pretty much beat right out after just a few miles. I think kero or WD, either one will do a good job of keeping the 'O's slippery. Also if only one ring is gone I'd just replace the link with another riveted master link. A correctly installed one is as dependable as the others.

 

WD-40 is a great cleaner, but not much of a lube. I like the Teflon stuff myself, or whatever version of PTFE is out there.

Riddmkidd, your chain is shot and it's because it was too tight. An inch and a half of slack at the tightest point as measured halfway between sprockets on the lower run; measured straight up and down with the bike on the center stand or parallel to the side plates of the chain on the side stand. They spec it that way so you can measure it, but it's nice and tight with you sitting on the bike and the shock compressed. Any tighter than the spec and, well, you start losing o-rings from the chain getting over-tightened...

Cheers,
-Kit

 

Riddmkidd, your chain is shot and it's because it was too tight. An inch and a half of slack at the tightest point as measured halfway between sprockets on the lower run; measured straight up and down with the bike on the center stand or parallel to the side plates of the chain on the side stand. They spec it that way so you can measure it, but it's nice and tight with you sitting on the bike and the shock compressed. Any tighter than the spec and, well, you start losing o-rings from the chain getting over-tightened...

Cheers,
-Kit

bummer, thank you for the verdict, Kit. bleah...maybe i can get the 18 front sprocket installed since the 17, while epic in the twisties, isn't cutting it for the longer slab runs.

 

I wonder if a 17 would help me keep my speed a little closer to what those people with the blue clothes keep telling me it should be...

 

I have started to grow tentacles with the new gearing. Ymmv etc.

 

Only just started?

Cheers,
-Kit

 

heh, this is the fastest bike i have owned. started on a cruiser, then went to sport Touring, now at SPORT touring.


new chain acquired plus up a tooth to 18 in the front. much more balanced with gearing. took her up in the hills in napa cty via wooden valley rd and past the glory hole at lake berryessa on 128. rawr!


i mean, there's quite a headwind this time of year...

also, dang the 280.00 bill was painful. definitely going to learn how to do it myself next time.