[moreteavicar]

Thanks all, this is turning into a barrel of laughs! I removed the whole assembly earlier, didn't take long once I figured out how to split the connector block (didn't have to lift the yoke much), will have a go at dissassembly from the @chickenstrip thread to see if I can poke up from the bottom... let you know how it goes!

 

[moreteavicar]

Look up "key extractor" on the web (usually in a locksmith forum). They make a few different kinds of them, one is like a serrated wire on a handle which is inserted along the side groove (broaching) of the key. You bend it slightly sideways to allow the serrations to grip the key as you gently pull it out. Once it is even a little bit out of the cylinder, it can be grabbed with needle nose pliers and removed. The other type looks something like a gaffing hook and once you see an image, you can easily make one from an old hacksaw blade with a grinder and some patience. This type is usually inserted along the top edge of the key and may take a little rocking motion to lift the pins/tumblers as it makes its way past each one. You can usually hook one of the key cuts and gently withdraw the broken piece. In both cases, it is imperative that the lock cylinder is in the same position it would be in when the key is to be removed. If you can rotate it to this position, you are almost guaranteed success. I've even seen welding torch tip cleaners (the kind that are folded up like Allen keys or a pocket knife) be used. If you can find a friendly locksmith, they may even loan you the tool with a monetary deposit. Good luck- it's actually easier than it sounds. Be sure to post up your success story once it's out!

Actually I do have a lock picking set I picked up on Amazon yonks ago, if I can find it amongst the clutter in the garage I might try that before trying to remove barrel

 

[moreteavicar]

I know from experience how darn frustrating it is getting that lock to turn to the fork locked position. I struggle with it almost every time I ride. It's the only mechanical operation of the bike that doesn't work smoothly. It's a real pisser.

Thanks for the heads up. I will start being a lot gentler with it.

Haha yes and these things always happen at the worst possible time... I was just rocking up to a first date at a country side pub... still I've not long done a 150 mile round trip to see my mum in hospital, so still usable as it is

 

[moreteavicar]

OK well the short story is - I'm going to get a SH ignition & fuel lock set off ebay - seen one for 955RS - looks identical to the 1050...

Long story - You can't get anything past the broken key to pull it out - locksmith said just drill it out. Being curious I got as far as disassmbling the switch, not as far as grinding off the clamp part holding on the lock. Somewhere I thought I read there was a hole with a rubber plug that allowed access to the pin holding the barrel in - maybe a different Triumph, these locks have no access to the barrel... [as martinw06 states]

Anyway it so happened I wanted to refuel my bike and then discovered the pair of "spare keys" that didn't fit / unlock the fuel cap - after searching around in the bag of bits from the bike's previous owner, I found a set of three new Triumph key barrels which the keys worked with... "wahoo" I hear you cry. Well, after removing the barrel in the fuel cap they are not alike due to the 2 pin(s) at the bottom as - you can see in the pic below (fuel lock has a short stubby pin, and as I found last night it is equally impossible to remove the filler lock barrel without going medieval).

I've offered one against the ignition lock so you can see where the bottom locking pin coincides with the protuding part of the aluminium housing shaft. With careful drilling it should be possible to access that pin to remove the barrel (1st rotate so pin is not in line with drill bit), but thats a rainy day job to satisfy my curiosity (using this as a guinea pig).

The amazing thing is, with a £10 lock picking kit from Amazon and 5 minutes practice, I was able to unlock my fuel cap in less than 10 seconds (and I'm not kidding or trying to brag!)... so it seems pointless making it near impossible to access the lock barrel in the first place! The kit I got is something like this, probably worth having handy somewhere... under lock and key Lock Pick Set with Transparent Training Padlock,Premium Practice Locksmith Tools Lock Picks and Credit Card Lock Picking Tool Kit for Training Practice Beginner and Pro Locksmiths : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

 

[moreteavicar]

Those three lock barrels are for panniers and top box, sold with the bike from new.

The normal process for removing those from a damaged pannier is to drill down beside the keyway close to that locking tab. Then insert a small wire like a lock pick with a bend at the end, rotate the wire and use the bend to push that lock tab inwards. Drilling where you suggest will be much neater than is possible on a pannier.

Thanks - strange the bike never had panniers, no rails to mount them, so not sure why the previous owner had them then!

 

[moreteavicar]

I would just try the crazy glue. I never needed to try it on a bike but I have done it on a door lock and it worked.

Maybe, but without spare key to unlock the filler (strangely I didn't fancy using the picking kit every time I refuel), I had no choice to replace both ignition and filler assemblies, which turned out to be quick and easy.

 

[moreteavicar]

For future ref - anyone wishing to access the ignition lock - you don't need to raise or remove the yoke. You just need to steer handlebar to give enough clearance for the allen key to start undoing the bolts, then flip to the the longer edge (shorter lever) until they can be rotated by hand. Plenty of room below to drop the ignition assembly out.

 

[moreteavicar]

Mine ('02 RS) had 'security bolts', not allen head.

They include the keys with a new bike whether you ask for them or not. The owner might decide later on panniers, or subsequent owners.

Well I be bashed to death by a giant pig on a stick... checked my other Sprint, and sure enough that had security bolts... I'd wager the previous owner might have had a similar problem, hence the spare keys not matching! (My other Sprint has panniers, so didn't know about spare barrels!).

Regarding removal of security bolts - just a thought - looks to me a stud extractor socket would work on them (on the end of a ratchet) - so again ought to be possible without removing the yoke... hopefully I won't need to test that iea for a very long while....