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Installing lower engine guards on Tiger 900

17K views 48 replies 15 participants last post by  zolo  
#1 ·
Yay, first post for this group!

I attempted to install the lower engine guards on my Tiger 900 GT Pro over the weekend. Let me state that I have installed engine guards on a couple of bikes before this. I know all about not tightening the bolts before you have every bolt initially threaded and make sure everything lines up on both sides. That being said, I could never get the second bolt on the right side to begin to thread. I would even barely thread that bottom bolt with the spacer and the top mount towards the top and front of the bike would never line up to allow the second bolt to thread. It would hit the engine before I could even see the full bolt hole.

I even tried starting with the top bolt first and then doing the bottom one. No dice. I returned the bars to the dealer and asked for new ones. I feel they may fight me on it because a 'technician' did not do the install. I had my husband even look at it and he agreed the bars seemed slightly deformed. Has anyone installed the lower guards on the bike yet on any Tiger 900? If so, did you find everything lined up with no issues? This should have been a very simple install. I am pretty frustrated. Any help is appreciated.

Lynn
 
#2 ·
I'm going to go out on a limb and say that there probably hasn't been many people installing them yet. I wouldn't be shocked if the bolt holes didn't line up. If you have trouble again I think I might let the dealer try to install them. If they install them they then carry the full motorcycle warranty.
 
#6 ·
I received a new set of lower engine guards today along with some radiator guards. Both just popped on as easy as can be. That initial set was definitely deformed. The hardest thing about the lower engine guards was getting the bottom bolt on the left-hand side started because the radiator hose was right there. It took me less than 45 min to install both and that was because I took time to set up an evaporative cooler and fan. It is already 95 degrees in my garage. Yea South Texas!
 

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#7 ·
It seemed to me that you must have had a slightly malformed set so I’m glad that’s been rectified.

My Rally Pro of course came with them fitted but I did remove them to get them powder coated along with a set of the high bars. Mine obviously went straight back on but getting all the bolts threaded and that spacer in place was a bit of a fiddle in any case.

They certainly look better black, in my opinion. I just wanted to share a potential pitfall. The high bars mount onto the lower bars and to a new bracket under the top triple clamp, and it’s not a completely simple job, especially with freshly powder coated bars. Got everything hooked up, stood back and noticed I’d left the rubber sleeve off. :mad:
Not a completely disassembly but a partial redo of both upper and lower bars on one side that I could have lived without.
 
#9 ·
It seemed to me that you must have had a slightly malformed set so I’m glad that’s been rectified.

My Rally Pro of course came with them fitted but I did remove them to get them powder coated along with a set of the high bars. Mine obviously went straight back on but getting all the bolts threaded and that spacer in place was a bit of a fiddle in any case.

They certainly look better black, in my opinion. I just wanted to share a potential pitfall. The high bars mount onto the lower bars and to a new bracket under the top triple clamp, and it’s not a completely simple job, especially with freshly powder coated bars. Got everything hooked up, stood back and noticed I’d left the rubber sleeve off. :mad:
Not a completely disassembly but a partial redo of both upper and lower bars on one side that I could have lived without.
I'm considering powder coating my engine bars too. Any chance you could pop on a couple of photos of your black bars please? Thanks.
 
#10 ·
@dawsonstaffs You can see that I also was able to refit the original fog light mounts with just a small amount of cutting of the bracket where it bolts under the beak. The lights still can’t go there (Perhaps upside down) but it fills the gap and could be used for other lights if I wanted. Purely cosmetic at this stage.

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#20 ·
Looks like adding the upper crash bars on the Pro models will require an additional fog light install kit costing $400, is that true? Why couldn't Triumph think of a mount that will clear the lights? Heard that the Outback Motortek is working on their system.
 
#22 ·
Yes, lights had to relocated, but the kit doesn’t cost anything like that. I think it was $50. I agree it was unfortunate and a very small mod is all that is needed for the stock mount to fit - I have kept mine on for aesthetic reasons and possible future use with other lights - and the lights themselves hit the bars by only about 1-2 cm. A slightly different design would have enabled them to sit above rather than hang below the stock mount. Could have/should have been avoided.
 
#27 ·
I have exactly the same problem - picked up the lower engine bars yesterday and the top fitting on the right hand bar is out by about 2mm. It won't line up with the bolt hole on the engine. Trying to force the bolt could end up stripping the thread on the engine so I'm taking them back for a refund. I did exactly the same as you Lynn, also tried loosely fitting the top one first but then the bottom one with the spacer was way off centre alignment.
Very disappointed in Triumphs quality control - I think these accessories are manufactured in Thailand!
735633
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#29 ·
You’re not supposed to tighten any of the bolts until they’re all in a little. That margin of error In our pics surely isn’t going to prevent those going on with only a small amount of manipulating. All the Rally models are fitted with them and I’m sure that if there was an issue it with fitment it would have been rectified. When I took mine off for powder coating one side went back on easier than the other but without too much difficulty.
 
#30 ·
Hey @CanberraR3 I kept the lower bolt with the spacer loose and that small gap in the pics was after a lot of manipulating and colourful language! I would have needed to hit it with a sledge hammer to get it moving any closer to the centre of the mounting hole on the engine - the bracket hole should be dead centre on the engine mounting hole otherwise I'd risk stripping the thread. I've owned Triumphs for the past 18 years - this is my 7th and can't fault their commitment to quality over that time. So, this was disappointing. I've taken them back for replacement so I'll see what happens next.
 
#38 ·
The relocation kit is only $40 and in my opinion the lights actually look better in the new position with the upper bars. I’ve been able to retain the original mount bar and used it to fit some extra lights. Mildly annoying initially they had to relocated but having done it I’m pretty happy with the way they’re designed.
 
#39 ·
Took the phone tray out and replaced with the one from the basic 900, gives some usable storage space for the radio coms unit and puncture repair kit and power distribution module.

Much better than the IMHO phone thing. Why would you put the phone in there ! if connected as navigation. Also pain to keep undoing the seat to get the phone.
 
#41 ·
Just put the lower bar set on my Rally. Couldn't find instructions anywhere so I winged it. Luckily everything lined up perfectly. Only came with one spacer... could have used 2. Both on the left side. I used a small stack of washers on the lower left. 1 of the 4 bolts was shorter than the others and it went in the upper right. Seems like both the upper bolts should have been shorter. Oh well...