The next thing that we need is to populate the data-base with OEM tunes

Perform a 'read-map' and save, noting in the 'Map Infos' the basic details of the Map you are saving
e.g std Bonneville; arrows; Thruxton, etc

Send these maps to Tom for inclusion in the data-base
(use the same format for the file-name using the 'tune' number)

This way it becomes simple for those to get access to the 'after-market', Arrow 2-1, Arrow 2-2 OEM Map variants for download without requiring trip to the dealer, if they install pipes etc.

Custom Tunes are also welcome!

 

I'd also suggest putting the model year in as well. It seems from some other posts that the 2010 mid-model update has a different standard map to previous years bikes.

james

 

Fantastic news and thanks to all those involved.

It's worth taking notice of this piece of advice on Alains site http://www.tuneecu.com/ :

2. Resist the temptation to fiddle before you know what you are doing!

I'll start gently at first by just using the software to turn off my O2 sensors. They've been removed already and by-passed with some resistors but I'll sleep more easily if I can turn them OFF altogether from within the ECU.

 

Or maybe first you can save your standard map per the request in post 2.

 

See what you mean. I was just going to jump in there. I'll do that.

 

DEcosse.......

You sooooooooo need to buy an EFI Bonnie and tune the nuts off it.

Go on. Ahhhhhhhhhhhh go on.

 

father decosse?



Go on - is that a reference to:

 

This opens up capability for anyone to do this now Prop'

I'm sure we'll start to see some custom tunes being available as time goes forward.
It will make more dyno operators keen to utilize because there is no prohibitive license fee before tuning even starts
i.e. better for operator AND the customer - someone more likely to look at doing this now vs considerable additional cost from PC hardware or TuneBoy license making it prohibitive.

And of course add your own Wideband logging capability and you don't even need the dyno!

 

AWESOME! Thanks for making this available! Appreciate all the hard work.

H.

 

Just sent to Tom a "20230 Thruxton with aftermarket exhaust" (pulled from 2009 model).

Also noted a MINOR bug in the TESTS section.
Tacho test is grayed out and does not work. Last version that worked was 1.6.8. (just confirmed with 1.6.8, 1.6.99b and 1.7.1).

Have submitted a bug report.

maps on Thruxtons...woohoo!!!!!!!!

 

I see Tom has created pages on the TuneECU site specifically for Twin Maps

OEM Twin Maps - http://www.tuneecu.com/Twin_OEM_Tune_list.html

Custom Twin Maps - http://www.tuneecu.com/Twin_Custom_Tune_list.html

(Empty at time of writing but know he has already received some & I'm sure he will populate as/when he gets them)

 

Seems there are lots to choose from on eBay, but here's a good "Buy It Now" deal on the recommended cable:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180557105881
its $9.50, w/free shipping.

 

Some insights into TuneECU map edit

Well, today we have a General Strike here in Spain that the Unions have organised to protest against certain budget cuts and changes to Labour laws. I tried to pop into work today and found an ugly mob of pickets in the street threatening anyone brave enough to turn up for work by "informing" them, (with baseball bats mainly).

As the owner/director of one of the companies in the area, I bravely got off my bike and...joined the ugly mob for a little while and did some hearty shouting with the rest... As I'm a bit scruffy and don't fit the usual look of a factory owner, I got away with it. The beard helps, in Spain a beard is taken as an outward sign of being Left-Wing, which I'm not.

So, a few minutes later, I quietly scarpered and went to my garage instead where I tried the new 1.7.1 version of TuneEcu.

Some preliminary observations:

The software worked OK, with just a little difficulty with installing the cable. I did it before on a laptop and that worked OK but this time I used my Netbook PC. Did it in the end using the version CDM 2.06.00 as advised on Alains site.

I checked that the Diagnostics feature worked OK, as before, and then gingerly pressed the "Map edit" button on the top RH side, followed by the "ECU" drop down menu button on the left. Chose "Read map" option and waited.

Now reading the map takes a very long time for it to be displayed on your screen, and together with the learning process of dealing with a new program with the ignition turned on during all this time, my advise is to hook up a battery charger capable of supplying at least 4 amps otherwise the battery will run down.

Alternatively you can remove Number 9 fuse to estinguish the headlight. Unfortunately the engine won't start with that fuse removed as it's wired to the starter relay. For map editing and downloading it doesn't matter as you can do that with the engine OFF. For diagnostics you have to start the engine.

My advise is also to keep the computer powered by the mains. The average battery could run down and upset the process. My own particular Netbook seems to get upset when waking it up from its power saving mode, so I turned that off as well during the process.

The thrill of seeing the map contents clearly displayed on the screen for the first time is difficult to describe. No more buying "keys" at inflated prices, special programs, etc. Your fingers itch to start fiddling and become the master. A sort of revenge for all that time when you didn't know what was going on in that silicon brain while the smug carbed bike owners laughed at you and waved those jets and needles in your face.

Take your time. Note the map number, serial number of ECU, and it also gives you the last 6 numbers of your bike's VIN.

Follow D'ecosses's advise and do a map "save" now, just in case. Choose "file" and "save map file" option. The existing map will be saved as a .hex file (whatever that is).

After all my initial enthusiasm and posturing I have to confess that I nearly fouled my pants at the sight of all those different screens (12 in total...!) full of figures. The knowledge that I could change anything I wanted was too daunting for me at this time, and declined to touch anything...

The only thing I thought I dared do for now was the turning OFF of the O2 sensors. They show up on the bottom of the screen both on the diagnostics mode and map edit mode, but I'm afraid that feature doesn't work, or I'm too thick to make it work. Any advise on that score would be gratefully received.

If you do any changes to the map that's being displayed and press the "download" button on the top RH side of the screen, it will prompt you with a "are you sure, etc". I daren't, yet.

 

....Follow D'ecosses's advise and do a map download now, just in case. Choose "file" and "save map file" option. The existing map will be saved as a .hex file (whatever that is)..

Just a quick correction in term here Forchetto:
(I always felt the terms were actually 'reversed' myself - it follows the TuneBoy convention I guess)
'DownLoad' is when you actually write to the ECM.
So conversely, 'Read Map' would be Upload.

.... The thrill of seeing the map contents clearly displayed on the screen for the first time is difficult to describe. No more buying "keys" at inflated prices, special programs, etc. Your fingers itch to start fiddling and become the master. A sort of revenge for all that time when you didn't know what was going on in that silicon brain while the smug carbed bike owners laughed at you and waved those jets and needles in your face....

After all my initial enthusiasm and posturing I have to confess that I nearly fouled my pants at the sight of all those different screens (12 in total...!) full of figures. The knowledge that I could change anything I wanted was too daunting for me at this time, and declined to touch anything.......

I LOVE your writing style Forchetto - always gives me great pleasure to read your posts; they never fail to have great entertainment along with the obvious Technical Value you add!

Just think how much fun you could have with a WideBand Logger now that you have something to affect change with that generated data!

 

Comrade Forchetto!

ehhe.. Yes my understanding is that the map will take a while to read when there is no base map preloaded.

Subsequent reads would be faster as now there is a base map.

My initial read took at least 10-15 minutes. The headlight was on for several minutes (but the voltage didnt drop from 12 volts at all) but thought I'd pull Fuse 9 anyway.

To disable the 02 sensor..try doubleclicking on the box next to the item to select or clear the box. No harm if you mess that one up.

 

Big warnings on both the TuneECU site and in my sticky thread regarding inhibiting the headlights when using the MapEdit 'read map' or 'download'
One of most common questions asked is 'can't I just use a trickle charger?
Well as Forchetto correctly observes, headlight takes much more current than a 05-0.75A battery maintainer can make up for in shortfall.
The problem obviously much greater on the twins where you are looking at 10A drain.

As alx observes, the reason the initial 'read map' takes so long (as much as 20 mins) is because there is no map loaded and it has to build every feature.
In future, if a Map of the correct 'family' is already loaded in the program, then it will be MUCH quicker to retrieve the map.
i.e. once those have created the OEM Triumph maps, and these are published, open in the program before 'reading' your own map.
That will go MUCH faster.
You can see this by simply trying another 'read map' with your saved map already loaded and you will see the difference.
There are already some maps (Bonneville & Thruxton) in the TuneECU data-base.
So load a map into the program first THEN read your own map.
If your Map is not in the data-base PLEASE send it in to Tom after you retrieve it!

To un-check the O2 sensors Forchetto, that is a MapEdit function (not Diag or Test) - you must uncheck, (double-click or 'mouse' over the box and select 'disable' - or 'enable') ;save the Map (with new name!), then 'DownLoad' it from the Green Button.
The download should actually be quite quick.

A quick summary overview of the Map Edit Tables:
F1 & F2 are the Fuel Map Tables - the values are actually Air Mass values (not fuel). Each cell corresponds to a specific TPS to RPM region.
Air/Fuel is the 'target' A/F ratio.
The Fuel is derived from the ratio of the corresponding A/F table to the Air value.
So changing either the A/F value or Air value, will change the amount of fuel delivered.
L1 & L2 - these are also Fuel tables (again air mass values), but those are when ECM is using the MAP sensor vs the TPS sensor.
F-L Switch is how the Program transitions between the F & L tables
F Trim is a delta to the primary F table. (this is a good table for making changes without doing anything to the primary table values - easier to avod getting 'lost' from what you started with) - normally all zeros.
I are all Ignition tables. (Best left alone!)

Additional details are in the User Guide

 

Big warnings on both the TuneECU site and in my sticky thread regarding inhibiting the headlights ....etc etc
The problem obviously much greater on the twins where you are looking at 10A drain.

As the twins have a single headlight (and I assume it's only a 55W for low beam) it should be less drain than the twin headlights of, say, the twin headlights for just about all the other range (ie daytonas/955/675/ Speed/Street Triples etc).

Probably a smaller battery capacity in the twins but my observation was that with a healthy battery that the voltage didn't drop at all during the lengthy read. So the single headlight didnt seem to chew into the battery discharge profile much at all.

I understand the 675's are quite heavy on the battery ...probably a small battery but with twin (55w each) lights chewing it up.

 

Wow! I'd been lead to believe the Bonneville and Thruxton maps were the same but, by loading my map 20188 and comparing it to 20230 (file - compare - select file - hold F6 to show the compared map) I see they are different!

So the download of 20230 went smoothly and I'm now running a Thruxton map

My plan is to try my new mapping as is, then do the 20 minute auto tune up and see if there is any difference.

TuneECU ROCKS!!!!

 

TuneECU ROCKS!!!!

It certainly does. We now have 5 OEM maps donated to the TuneECU site:

http://www.tuneecu.com/Twin_OEM_Tune_list.html

 

6! - First Speedmaster map is now up!

 

I gotta get me a cable, I'm missing out!

 

This is glorious really, I was completely giddy seeing the maps load for the first time tonight.

I have an ARK sitting on a shelf which will no go in much sooner than I expected.

I sent the 20229 and 20268 maps from a 2010 Thruxton over to Tom/Alain, can't wait to see a Predator/ARK map show up...

 

So I have a question, maybe something for Forchetto to try . But on the map edit screen - not only is there a check mark box for the O2s, but also for SAI ... does this mean we can do away with the resistors now when removing the AI?!

Also, when disabling the O2s, is there anything that needs to be done to the map or is that it (and bolt sizes for those O2 bungs would be nice)?

I would've tried it myself, but I just ordered my cable :beerchug

 

... there a check mark box for the O2s, but also for SAI ... does this mean we can do away with the resistors now when removing the AI?!

Not yet - SAI device part is not yet functioning (hopefully future)

 

Appreciation to all who have contributed to the collection.
Just a quick note - check the database to see if 'your' map is already there - if so, no need to send multiples.
Also, to re-iterate for first-time users, if you open a 'family' map in the program first, your 'read map' will go a whole lot quicker! - so get one from the database before you start.
(I believe any of the twins maps would be considered same 'family' so any will suffice to open up-front for the 'read map' purpose.)

 

Wow what great work and response time DEcosse

One question that wasn't clear from the guide:
"Reset TPS (Keihin)
After downloading (Fig. 12), a reset of the TPS is required.
Turn off the ignition, wait ten seconds and turn ignition back on.
With connection re-established with TuneECU proceed"

So after every tune download do you have to reset the TPS? The reason I ask is because Fig.12 that is referenced is actually showing what it looks like after an ECU recovery - not reprogram.

Apart from that - if you ever need any help - I'm a software developer by trade. I'd love to peak at the source some time if there's ever anything I can work on.

 

Oh and thought I'd share:
http://www.gadgettown.com/Car-Diagnostics-USB-OBDII-409-Interface-VAG-Com-Cable.html

$15.99 ... free shipping ... use the coupon CARTAST2 for 10% off of that... and it ships out of Brooklyn, NY - so a heck of a lot faster than from china or hongkong.

At least I'm hoping Vag-Com 409 and 409.1 and ISO9141 and ISO9141-2 are the same things (or atleast compatible). They list the same models of cars that they're compatible with and from all the googling I can't find that there's a difference.

 

Great deal on the cable jnance50, good reference!
Looks like that one should work :thumbsup :thumbsup

Just to be clear in case of any misperception - I'm not the developer - just the 'messenger' - Alain Fontaine is the brains behind this!

 

Hi,

Subsequent Tunes are now on the list:

Bonneville: 20188 and 20264

Thruxton: 20228, 20229 and 20268

America & Speedmaster : 20183

Many thanks to: Al, Forchetto, Alx, DEcosse, Derek, Pedro and Eric

Some Tunes I've received several times.

Direct link to the database of Twins: http://www.tuneecu.com/Twin_OEM_Tune_list.html

BR, Tom

 

Map comparisons

Hi,

Thruxton: 20228, 20229 and 20268

Direct link to the database of Twins: http://www.tuneecu.com/Twin_OEM_Tune_list.html

BR, Tom

Interesting to compare the tunes, especially the "air/fuel" targets. Huge difference between the Thruxton'd Arrow 2-2 (20268) and the Triumph aftermarket exhaust (20230). And a chasm between the 20229 standard tune.

refer the online manual but a summary of comparing maps:-
Select Map Edit mode (top right)
Load 1st map File Open Map File... and select a valid .hex map file
Load comparison Map: File Compare.. etc
Check Status bar at bottom for currently displayed map.
Switchbetween maps by press/hold F6 key.
Press F5 to switch between graphic and matrix mode.
From left side, select the air/fuel mode. See that huge economy/lean hole (matrix mode) in the midrange for the Triumph aftermarket pipe!
The Arrow map is basically 13.0 everywhere. Seems a bit rudimentary.
The standard map is a big slab of economised 14.5 ratio.

Toggling between 20229/20230 and can see one derived from other, retaining the cruise/economy blob in the light-mid throttle openings and midrevs range.

Dumped the afternarket map and having a go with the arrow map.

 

haha, that was a great story Forchetto about the strike business. Very familiar to those that come from the other iberian country :]

I have been comparing various maps too, but there is only one for speedmaster/americas (the one I uploaded) so my comparisons are a bit biased...
I can only assume that OEM maps for standard pipes are as mild as puppies. Looking at AFR and Fx tables, it's painfully obvious that any slight change in the intake/exhaust takes the system immediately into lean territory.

Anyway, as it's been referred before, a proper wide-band A/F gauge would be the killer add-on for us fiddlers :]

One question comes to mind though. Could the famous pieman's ignition advance remaps be applied in the ECU ignition maps instead of in the igniter?

Now on for my 1/year keep-your-warranty-good-service and next new pipes + remap :]

 

One question comes to mind though. Could the famous pieman's ignition advance remaps be applied in the ECU ignition maps instead of in the igniter?

I was wondering about that. The consensus is that those 3 degrees of aditional advance that Pieman adds to the carbed bikes igniter make a hell of a difference to performance.

I've looked at my 20264 Arrow maps timing table but I wouldn't know where to add the extra degrees. This is what the RPM against Throttle position table looks like. Another mod that can be done very easily is the RPM limit, it's at the bottom left hand of the chart:

 

Quick update on O2 sensor disable - that is not working on Twins in the 1.7.1 - Alain has already resolved on the yet-to-be-released 1.7.2 so hopefully you will see that soon.

 

Whats the issue with bypassing the O2 with resistors and not in the ECU? I ask because i have a module i got from dobeck performance (for helping them get a model working for the Tbird via pics and data) which is a piggyback device, and it uses dummy plugs with resistors to take the place of the O2 sensor. The company is headed up by the originator of the power commander/dyno, so i imagine they know what they are doing. Is there some reason there seems to be worry among some here about doing it this way?