Many sources I read online stated that you can simply ground the kill switch wire to the + side of the coil

The “many sources” probably meant with points ignition, not electronic.

 

When my Boyer unit failed. It just completely died with no warning and i replaced it. If you phone Boyer, they will give some advice and the phone staff do know what they are talking about.
When i installed the Boyer, i disconnected the kill switch as i saw no need for one. Easy to reach the key

 

The “many sources” probably meant with points ignition, not electronic.

The “many sources” probably meant with points ignition, not electronic.

There were a couple of different places that said it....they were all specific to a Boyer. Of course that doesn't necessarily mean they were correct. I used the kill switch several times without a meltdown....of course that doesn't mean that the cumulative effect of using it wouldn't melt it down.

 

Do you have continuity through the trigger coils?

Many internet sources say a wire sometimes breaks at the stator plate.

 

http://www.boyerbransden.com/faultfinding.html

 

Hi Bob,

1966 BSA A65
Boyer ignition setup. Ran perfect until this morning. Went out to start it and no spark. Battery measures 12.7v. White wire is energized.

Does this last sentence also mean you're seeing the same 12.7V between the Boyer-Bransden "Transistor Box" White wire connection and the battery positive terminal?

no faults in the wiring between the pickup and the module.

What test(s) did you do to determine "no faults"?

Do you have continuity through the trigger coils?

Not just continuity, you should be able to measure very close to 130 Ohms between the ends of the Black/White and Black/Yellow wires.

As a double-check, I measure both between the wires' ends at the "Stator Plate", reconnect them to the wires to the Transistor Box, measure again between between the wires' ends disconnected from the Transistor Box; if the meter readings are the same, there isn't any additional resistance in the wires between Stator Plate and Transistor Box.

Is there a voltage that is present between the black coil wire and the red ground wire?

No, assuming you mean between specifically the Transistor Box Black and Red wires.

Can I test it with a diode check between the wires?

So no.

Tested the ignition coil with a separate voltage source

Test it with the coil negative terminal connected to the Transistor Box Black wire, the coil positive terminal connected to the battery positive terminal. Voltmeter connected between coil negative and battery positive, the meter should indicate Volts/no-Volts as you turn the engine over. Be aware, when the meter indicates Volts, the reading can be up to a Volt less than when measured between the Box White wire and battery positive.

Red ground wire has continuity to ground.

The Transistor Box Red wire is not "ground", it's the supply only to the Box electronics; standard "positive ground", the Red wire should be connected directly to the battery positive terminal, not any other part of the bike (although I appreciate that isn't what Ernie Bransden shows in his wiring diagrams).

Again assuming standard "positive ground", one/the coil's positive terminal should be connected separately either to existing Red wires in the bike's harness (that are connected to battery positive) or also directly to the battery positive terminal.

installed a kill switch. Many sources I read online stated that you can simply ground the kill switch wire to the + side of the coil

Sadly, many who post online about electrics, particularly Britbike electrics, don't have a clue ...

Lucas supplied handlebar-mounted "press-to-break" kill buttons when your bike was new. However, they were of two different types depending whether the points-switched coil/s was/were DC or AC. As you're talking about a Boyer-Bransden EI, the coil/s must be DC, the kill button or on/off switch must be in the White wire between ignition switch and B-B Transistor Box, the button/switch must simply break continuity in the White wire, it must not "ground".

Should I just buy a Pazon

No advantage and at least one potential disadvantage - in the US, Britbike parts wholesaler Coventry Spares in MA can test all Boyer-Bransden-type EI, including B-B, Pazon, Wassell, Sparx; however, CS can only supply spares for B-B EI.

Hth.

Regards,

 

Does this last sentence also mean you're seeing the same 12.7V between the Boyer-Bransden "Transistor Box" White wire connection and the battery positive terminal?

No. Voltage tester with the sharp point, probing the wire just before it terminates into the box.

What test(s) did you do to determine "no faults"?

A Fluke meter set to ohms testing from the pickup.

Test it with the coil negative terminal connected to the Transistor Box Black wire, the coil positive terminal connected to the battery positive terminal. Voltmeter connected between coil negative and battery positive, the meter should indicate Volts/no-Volts as you turn the engine over. Be aware, when the meter indicates Volts, the reading can be up to a Volt less than when measured between the Box White wire and battery positive.

Yes, did that. No volts.

The Transistor Box Red wire is not "ground", it's the supply only to the Box electronics; standard "positive ground", the Red wire should be connected directly to the battery positive terminal, not any other part of the bike (although I appreciate that isn't what Ernie Bransden shows in his wiring diagrams).

Again assuming standard "positive ground", one/the coil's positive terminal should be connected separately either to existing Red wires in the bike's harness (that are connected to battery positive) or also directly to the battery positive terminal.

I have a lug on the rear near the battery that is essentially the ground terminal for all components that are in the rear of the bike...that is where the red wire from the Boyer unit is terminated. The + battery terminal is fused with a 15 amp fuse is terminated there also. Are you saying that this is not correct?

 

Hello Stuart,
Bit of a hijack here, but I have a friend's Pazon (unknown parentage) that has no spark too, all power up to the module ok as per the OP on this thread. AIUI, the output from the module briefly turns on, ie the black wire goes to around -12 volts to ground (positive earth), which is why turning the ignition on then off should produce a spark - but doesn't? Still going to check the resistance between the disconnected trigger wires, but it'll be tomorrow, as the bike is a 30 mile round trip from here

 

Hi Mick,

turning the ignition on then off should produce a spark

A bit regrettably, the test has become unreliable with modern electronics. If the coil/s do/es produce a spark when you turn off the ignition (or kill) switch, Pazon Ignition Module is But, if it doesn't/they don't, no longer a reliable indicator of a dud Module.

Hth.

Regards,

 

Hi Bob,

Battery measures 12.7v. White wire is energized.

Voltage tester with the sharp point, probing the wire just before it terminates into the box.

no faults in the wiring between the pickup and the module.

Fluke meter set to ohms testing from the pickup.

How close to 132 Ohms between the Stator Plate Black/White and Black/Yellow wires' ends?

coil negative terminal connected to the Transistor Box Black wire, the coil positive terminal connected to the battery positive terminal. Voltmeter connected between coil negative and battery positive, the meter should indicate Volts/no-Volts as you turn the engine over

No volts.

Battery measures 12.7v.

I'd also check for that between battery -ve and coil +ve (if multiple coils, +ve of the last coil in the array).

If the bike has more than one coil, I'd check for expected Volt drop across each coil primary, no Volt drop between coils.

No fault found in the above tests, I'd pack the Transistor Box and Stator Plate off to Bransden Electronics (Coventry Spares is your case?) for more-detailed testing.

lug on the rear near the battery that is essentially the ground terminal for all components that are in the rear of the bike...that is where the red wire from the Boyer unit is terminated. The + battery terminal is fused with a 15 amp fuse is terminated there also. Are you saying that this is not correct?

Mmmm ...

That electrical components on old Britbikes can generate Voltage spikes when they're operated wasn't a concern 'til people started connecting aftermarket electronics. Connecting an EI to electrical components that can generate Voltage spikes is not a good idea.

Aiui, B-B Transistor Box electronics draw about 750 mA so connecting them to battery +ve through any fuse cannot serve any useful purpose but is two extra connections where problems are more-likely to develop. So most electronics engineers I know who are also familiar with old Britbike electrics wouldn't do that ...

B-B fitting instructions advise current drawn through the Transistor Box by the coil(s) shouldn't exceed 5A. If an ignition circuit component fails closed (e.g. coil primary failing low-resistance happens occasionally), the 15A fuse won't protect the Transistor Box. Fwiw, I always fit a separate 5A or 7.5A fuse in the Transistor Box White wire.

Hth.

Regards,

 

How close to 132 Ohms between the Stator Plate Black/White and Black/Yellow wires' ends?

132.2 ohms.

I'd pack the Transistor Box and Stator Plate off to Bransden Electronics (Coventry Spares is your case?) for more-detailed testing.

I guess the next question is: Does Boyer Bransden offer a deal on idiots who fry their black box if you send your old unit in?

 

Scanned the thread but did not see which
Boyer box you are using?

 

Scanned the thread but did not see which
Boyer box you are using?

Mark 3

 

When I dealt with Boyer I rung them, I don't recall much response via email. But as I said, it was years ago so things might have changed.

 

Hi,

When I dealt with Boyer I rung them, I don't recall much response via email.

Mmmm ... but Bob The OP is in the US, Mick's in GB, Pazon's in NZ ...

Ime, Bransden Electronics ("Boyer") is good with email answers but, if Bob needs to 'phone anyone, it's cheaper for him to 'phone the aforementioned Coventry Spares in MA (Massachusetts)?

Regards,