In the process of replacing the steering bearings on my 08 speed 1050 and I've gotten all the old parts out. My intention is to replace the ball bearings with tapered ones. My thinking was I'd just measure the inside and outside diameter of the assembled bearings and get a set of tapered bearings to match.however... The races were compromised during removal and I'm not sure if I could get an accurate reading with a mic. I know even several thousandths of an inch could be a big deal here. Does anyone have the measurements I'd need? Or would it be possible to use the numbers on the bearings to cross reference to a tapered set? Insight appreciated.
Headstock bearing conversion help needed
B R I A N
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I'd have to look that info up. But it was no big deal in either case. I just ordered what AllBalls listed for my bikes.
The first swap was a TLS set onto an 06 ST. The other swap was an 07 GSXR set onto an 05 SV1K. Let me know if the part numbers for either will help you and I will then dig them up out of the receipt stack. Remember, I don't do much, but it takes me a long time.
The first swap was a TLS set onto an 06 ST. The other swap was an 07 GSXR set onto an 05 SV1K. Let me know if the part numbers for either will help you and I will then dig them up out of the receipt stack. Remember, I don't do much, but it takes me a long time.
Got my bearings in yesterday. I've had the races in the freezer all day and will put everything together tonight. Upon initial inspection the new bearings appear to be just the right size......We'll see.
One problem I forsee...I had the lower clamp and stem assy in the back of my truck for a couple days thinking I would need it to take measurements from....Long story short the threads on the end of the stem for the top finisher nut got a bit chewed up at nd I can't get the nut to thread back on. I'm wondering if I can even buy a die for something that large to clean up the threads? anyone know what the thread size/pitch is?
One problem I forsee...I had the lower clamp and stem assy in the back of my truck for a couple days thinking I would need it to take measurements from....Long story short the threads on the end of the stem for the top finisher nut got a bit chewed up at nd I can't get the nut to thread back on. I'm wondering if I can even buy a die for something that large to clean up the threads? anyone know what the thread size/pitch is?
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Unfortunate parts handling, but interesting question. The pitch is 1.5, but the diameter is 24. If you can find a die that size I expect it will be expensive.
You can Google "thread file tool" and select one that has 1.5 as one of the sizes.
Or you can use a needle file and take your time to get it correct.
One thing to keep in mind is that the stem is machined and then hard surface anodized. The anodization serves to prevent corrosion in the threads.
You can Google "thread file tool" and select one that has 1.5 as one of the sizes.
Or you can use a needle file and take your time to get it correct.
One thing to keep in mind is that the stem is machined and then hard surface anodized. The anodization serves to prevent corrosion in the threads.
Unfortunate indeed. I am usually overly cautious about that sort of thing. I wrapped the lower clamp in a towel and taped it up so that the painted parts wouldn't get damaged but overlooked the threads getting buggered. It really is very minimal and only on the last thread or two. If I could get the nut started I'm sure it would thread on smoothly. I've never had much luck cleaning up threads unless chasing with a tap or die, but we'll see...
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Thread file is a no brainer to use. There are eight pitches per file, depending on the file size. I have two of them that I've used for over forty years. I also have two extensive tap and die sets and find that I will always go for the file when doing minor thread repairs such as yours.
Got everything put in last week but had to get married and go on a honeymoon so didn't have a chance to post...
Everything went together beautifully and the bike feels immensely better. Only snag is that as mentioned the new upper bearing is slightly wider and as a result the ceneter decorative nut doesn't thread on as far now. No big deal but a narrower bearing would be prefferable.
Everything went together beautifully and the bike feels immensely better. Only snag is that as mentioned the new upper bearing is slightly wider and as a result the ceneter decorative nut doesn't thread on as far now. No big deal but a narrower bearing would be prefferable.
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1. What dimension of the upper bearing would you change, and to what dimension?
2. How did you search allballs' site to locate the part nos. you found? I don't see a place to do anything other than to choose your bike, etc.
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Congrats on both .
I may consider this upgrade this winter.
I may consider this upgrade this winter.
Thanks for the wishes
I don't have any idea how the bearings got trashed so soon. I bought the bike used with 900 miles on it and the bearings felt 'loose' from day 1.
Others have accused me of not having them adjusted properly. I guess that could be the case but I really dont think so. I had the front end apart several times lubing and adjusting the OEM bearings with no improvement.
I never liked the original ball bearings anyway. I finally decided since they weren't the proper bearing for the application anyway (IMO) I'd just replace them and be done with it.
New setup is a 100% improvement.
Only dimension that I would change is the upper bearing should be 25/52/15 not the 25/52/16.5 I used. I couldn't find a readily available 15mm width bearing, though, so the 16.5mm is an acceptable substitute.
I don't have any idea how the bearings got trashed so soon. I bought the bike used with 900 miles on it and the bearings felt 'loose' from day 1.
Others have accused me of not having them adjusted properly. I guess that could be the case but I really dont think so. I had the front end apart several times lubing and adjusting the OEM bearings with no improvement.
I never liked the original ball bearings anyway. I finally decided since they weren't the proper bearing for the application anyway (IMO) I'd just replace them and be done with it.
New setup is a 100% improvement.
Only dimension that I would change is the upper bearing should be 25/52/15 not the 25/52/16.5 I used. I couldn't find a readily available 15mm width bearing, though, so the 16.5mm is an acceptable substitute.
Your installation and subsequent observation seems therefore to agree with my concerns and suggestion in #7 above. Hence, the better option (for those reading this thread) would be the Koyo 30205JR 25x52x15 Narrow Section T/Roller Bearing or similar.
Correct, the Koyo p/n you referenced would be an OEM size replacement, but I see little disadvantage to the 16.5mm bearing vs the 15mm. The seal provided with the new bearing covers everything nicely, the OEM dust cap is only 1.5mm higher, and the decorative top triple nut has 1.5mm less thread to bite into.
Minimal differences really, but you are correct that the 15mm would probably be a better choice. I just couldn't get my hands on one as quickly.
Replacing bearings in steering head.
Top bearing is 25x52x15; bottom is 30x55x17
I replaced with tapered roller for both top & bottom
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p43...duct_info.html
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p14...duct_info.html
(Thanks Decosse)
As you can see I have the tapered bearing races installed.
The bottom race sits flush, I think it will seat inwards when I torque everything up ( cant remember how the original sat) while the top race projects to form a lip. (As discussed in this thread)
Taking off the bottom bearing race was the hardest as I don't have a machine shop nearby. Destroyed the dust seal mostly.
Anyhow now I am at this stage I can work out what seals I need.
The bottom one which sits on the triple tree is a replacement of he OEM but god knows if i can buy it from bearing supplier) presumably just to stop grease washing out. On a similar project on a piaggio I used ends of bakebean cans but hey where completely covered by fairings!!!
A seal to retain grease for the top bearing is ID42 OD52. Think a depth of about 5mm will work with this space.
Please let me know your thoughts.
Top bearing is 25x52x15; bottom is 30x55x17
I replaced with tapered roller for both top & bottom
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p43...duct_info.html
http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p14...duct_info.html
(Thanks Decosse)
As you can see I have the tapered bearing races installed.
The bottom race sits flush, I think it will seat inwards when I torque everything up ( cant remember how the original sat) while the top race projects to form a lip. (As discussed in this thread)
Taking off the bottom bearing race was the hardest as I don't have a machine shop nearby. Destroyed the dust seal mostly.
Anyhow now I am at this stage I can work out what seals I need.
The bottom one which sits on the triple tree is a replacement of he OEM but god knows if i can buy it from bearing supplier) presumably just to stop grease washing out. On a similar project on a piaggio I used ends of bakebean cans but hey where completely covered by fairings!!!
A seal to retain grease for the top bearing is ID42 OD52. Think a depth of about 5mm will work with this space.
Please let me know your thoughts.
Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com Free App
The bottom seal is a Koyo HX055NI
A German forum indicates
"For this purpose, the following note : SKF also has the d30 32006 with dimensions in the range D55" I am still looking for the correct profile.
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