Hi,

I see these "Harley" headlights advertised that have several different lights in the one housing.

To be a straight 'bolt in' to your bike, each different 'bulb' must have its own -ve and +ve wires/terminals, and nothing can 'ground' through the lamp itself.

Most don't have that; however, if the main/high and dip/low LED have a common -ve and separate +ve wires/terminals, it's possible to make some small wiring changes to your bike and connect the headlight; however2, you'd always have to remember the non-standard insulation colours connections.

expect I'm running the weaker alternator, and LED makes sense.

Not really. Fix the problem, not a sticking-plaster over the problem - fit a more-powerful alternator, replace the Tympanium on the bike now with a better reg./rec.

LED
likely put them in the turn signals as well, I have experience with LEDs and have resistors on hand.

Doesn't make sense:-

. turn signals are something used only intermittently, LED will save the proverbial "ten per cent of bugger-all";

. additional resistors with LED turn signals reduce the total resistance so you can use a relay for incandescent bulbs; however, by definition, those resistors consume the power the LED saves; either fit incandescent bulbs or a relay for LED.

Hth.

Regards,

 

Hi, To be a straight 'bolt in' to your bike, each different 'bulb' must have its own -ve and +ve wires/terminals, and nothing can 'ground' through the lamp itself. Most don't have that; however, if the main/high and dip/low LED have a common -ve and separate +ve wires/terminals, it's possible to make some small wiring changes to your bike and connect the headlight; however2, you'd always have to remember the non-standard insulation colours connections. Not really. Fix the problem, not a sticking-plaster over the problem - fit a more-powerful alternator, replace the Tympanium on the bike now with a better reg./rec. Doesn't make sense:- . turn signals are something used only intermittently, LED will save the proverbial "ten per cent of bugger-all"; . additional resistors with LED turn signals reduce the total resistance so you can use a relay for incandescent bulbs; however, by definition, those resistors consume the power the LED saves; either fit incandescent bulbs or a relay for LED. Hth. Regards,

You don’t need resistors and shouldn’t use them. If your flasher circuit doesn’t work (which it likely won’t) replace it with an LED-compatible flasher for a few $ from ali express or amazon or wherever you shop. You may also find that the wiring is reversed if the LEDs don’t light up, easily dealt with. For a headlight you might be able to fit a generic round LED headlight in your bucket-just check the current draw is about the same as your existing headlight. or try the replacement bulb as mentioned above.

 

I have been using this LED to replace my H-4 in my Hinckley Triumph. Fits straight into the H-4. The issue with H-4's behind the stock lens is the LED shapes the light pattern, whereas with the H-4 the lens does that. [An LED must also be indexed correctly in the light housing]. If you put an LED bulb only behind a stock lens, the lens needs to be free from fluting. If you use the complete drop in system with it's own lens, you will see that the glass has no fluting for the reason I mentioned. As for LED turn signals, I would not bother. They are not on long enough to save that much current usage. ...J.D.

 

I have many LED lamps on my Triumph but not the indicators or the headlight. Just not worth doing. Indicators hardly use any battery power on a ride and many LED headlights do not focus that well or have range so i stick with sealed beam or i use a headlight reflector and halogen lap. If i was going hundreds of night miles, i might want a better light but usually, i would be on my twin headlamp new bike for that distance. i would be interested to see how you get on buying an LED lamp for a headlight reflector designed for tungsten which will also have beam deflectors built into the glass front.
Don has found a lamp that suits his bike and has experimented to find the right one

 

Finding right one is the problem. Cars are the same way.

 

At Kempton park Today, there were some LED headlight lamps with good dip. They were projector type so would need a plain glass for the light to shine through. £10 each with 2 LED portions. One dip and one main

 

Are there none that come as a unit, with glass?
Do the Harley headlights fit?

 

There are some complete headlights on sale but not found out if they are any good. I see a few on Triumph Rocket 111 bikes but i prefer the very bright standard halogen i have on my R111. Having 2 headlights, it is a great riding at night bike. It runs both for dip and high beam so 120watts on high beam and 110watts on dip

 

I just want to be very careful about not exceeding my alternators capacity.

 

My standard very old alternator has managed to cope with its 60watt main beam. Normally i am riding at over 4000 rpm with the lights on so the alternator copes well. You might struggle if stopped in traffic for long periods but road use going places it should work. These bikes used to ride 100s of miles and for several days back when they were new. Not sure i heard anyone say the lights went dim.
I will use my tungsten sealed beam for this year but might put another Halogen lamp in a new reflector next.

 

Hi Geoff,

My standard very old alternator has managed to cope with its 60watt main beam.
These bikes used to ride 100s of miles and for several days back when they were new.

Not with 60W main-beam (nor a 55W dip), they didn't. When pre-'71 bikes with 12V electrics were new, the headlamp bulb was 50/40; '71-on, it was reduced to 45/35 (according to the parts books, 45/40 according to Lucas). All filaments drew around an Amp less than either 60W main/55W dip.

Also, when the bikes were new, most car, lorry, etc. headlamp bulbs were the same as/similar to the bike headlamps, not 60/55 quartz-halogen.

Normally i am riding at over 4000 rpm

Precisely.

Not sure i heard anyone say the lights went dim.

My T160 I bought brand-new had the '71-'77 BPF headlamp and bulb. It (the headlamp) was sh1t (I've posted that more than once ).

Hth.

Regards,

 

My 76 TR7 still has its standard alternator and was fitted with a Tympanium Reg/rec by the PO.
I fitted a “New Lucas” lens/reflector that takes an H4 halogen bulb, I used an Osram Nightbreaker 200+, standard wattage but much brighter than normal halogen and good throw and beam pattern. I’ve ridden at night and had no trouble at all with charging.
I use an Eagle Eye LED (as suggested by the fellows on this forum) in the pilot bulb position which is bright white and extremely visible over a wide angle of view in daylight, like a modern DRL, riding in daylight is all about being visible so I can confidently ride without headlight during daylight hours.
My bike came without indicators so I fitted some eBay bullet types which i converted to LED to make them brighter. I also use LEDs in the warning lamps for the same reason. The indicator warning lamp needs a bidirectional LED as it has to pass current in both directions.

 

I decided to use a left and right warning for the indicators so drilled an extra hole. Recently put some small LED lamps in the instruments. I used LEDs with wires attached and just put them through the old lamphoder so they stay put in the dials. This standard instrument lamps are relatively high wattage and changing them is a saving.
Riding at night with orange 9 watt Leds is a bit dazzling though but not often i need to indicate at night.

 

Yes, i have just taken out the 45/35 for this year as i need to see when going home from the bike nights. I am going to try out this setup and see how it copes using the higher power sealed beam. It soon becomes apparent if the battery is getting low as indicators fail to flash. I am also going to ride at night with the LED strip and see if it dazzles or annoys others. That strip might be enough to see the road far enough forward.

 

Instead of another one thread, thought I'd ask here.
Anyone have a good wiring diagram of a 67 650?
My Hanes manual sure doesn't.
If it has turn signals and such, even better.

 

http://www.classicbike.biz/Triumph/Repair/1970s/70-Triumph-Repair-Manual-63-70.pdf

Page 209 onwards.

You’ll have to look at a later diagram for indicators, in 67 we were still using hand signals..

Classic Motorcycles, including Triumph Bonneville, and Norton Commando, also Triumph Trident, Daytona, Tiger, and Norton Dominator

www.classicbike.biz

 

Hi Nessmuck, The problem is Triumph installed the “weakest “ alternator they could get away with. If you ride in open areas you can get away with 60w incandescent headlight. If you ride urban areas 60w will progressively bring battery voltage down to the point EI will loose spark. Points will loose spark also but at lower volts. Obviously turning off lights gives big improvement, in USA law is headlights on. Night time, of course you can’t turn off lights. In extended urban riding incandescent turn signals use enough current to be concerned about. The stop bulb does as well. As Stuart stated you must use electronic flasher, NO RESISTORS. You’re voltage concerns are justified.

The real cure is high output 3 phase alternator & 3 phase regulator. The rotor magnetism must be up to speck as well. There is a test for rotor & it’s not picking it up with a wrench.

Any other approach is a bandaid. However if your headlight expectations are not too high the LED bandaid works quite well.

The problem is it’s nearly impossible to get real life evaluation of a complete headlight insert using original 2 wire alternator. I know that’s what you are asking.

Also the truly bright LEF unit takes some current in its own right. Plus… space for the heat sink. The heat sink space can be a problem. Maybe mount where the zener was on later from yoke?

My experience with all stock bulbs driving with lights on, using turn signals like you’d want. Roads not flat where I live, so brake light on as long as you are stopped. If your alternator is original it’s slightly less output than mine. In my horrid city & commute traffic I was ok up to 30 minutes. 45-60 minutes I’d have to keep rpm above 2500 at stop or motor would start loosing spark at idle. I can’t turn lights off at night.

I’m out of town until Wednesday. I post photos of the only LED bulb that will focus in BPF base headlight. It’s not perfect by any means, but at least works. I’ll post photos when I get home.

I know exactly what you want, but does it exist? I don’t know it does.
Don

 

LED headlight bulbs themselves can be inconsistent in how they mesh with the stock lens, and they also tend to take up more space. On top of that, some generate a lot more heat (which is why a lot of them come with heat fins). LED indicator bulbs are usually a good idea for a weakened charging system, as long as you get a proper relay to go with them.

After fussing around with my lighting for a while, I've settled on a sort of sealed-beam LED headlight from a company called Revival Cycles. (Revival Secret LED 7" Retro Vintage Headlight).

It's an LED headlight that kind of disguises itself as a traditional headlight, draws less power, has its own glass lens so it has an effective spread, and it fits into the headlight bezel without any modifications. I gave it some extra padding with some spare gasket sheets just to be safe, but I haven't noticed and shift in the alignment at all.

As for indicators, I went for just LED bulbs that fit into my regular indicator housings. I needed a new relay that was meant for LEDs, but after that, I've had no issues with them.

 

Hi,

settled on a sort of sealed-beam LED headlight from a company called Revival Cycles. (Revival Secret LED 7" Retro Vintage Headlight).
It's an LED headlight that kind of disguises itself as a traditional headlight

Mmmm ...

. All the motorcycles in the video have 'negative ground' electrics; unless there's also a 'positive ground' version, you have to at least change some connections in pre-'79 Britbike electrics.

. As @Tritn Thrashr posted the last time this was linked, you can buy a high-output 3-phase stator, reg./rec. and plug for less than the $185 and, ime, then run a 100W main-beam quartz-halogen bulb ... no faffing about in the bike's lighting connections ...

Hth.

Regards,

 

Link me to that hi output alternator please.

 

Hi,

The Wassell Lucas version is available from several sellers, enter "lucas 47244" into your preferred internet browser to compare prices.

The Bonneville Shop also have the now-out-of-production British-made version, but you're looking at approximately 50% greater cost.

Also consider a new alternator rotor - their magnetic strength directly affects how much the stator can generate and attenuates with age, although not at a set rate. Only one available new, by Wassell Lucas.

You'll also require a 3-phase regulator/rectifier to replace the bike's current Tympanium; cheapest to most expensive but all reliable:-

. 5Pin Regulator Rectifier 31600-MY7305 31600-MV4010 for HONDA CB CBR 600 900 1100 813517939622 | eBay plus https://www.ebay.com/itm/203608516424;

. Podtronics (enter "podtronics 3-phase reg/rec" into your preferred internet browser to compare prices);

. Tri-Spark MOSFET reg./rec. (note the displayed price is Oz dollars ).

Hth.

Regards,

 

I believe I have a couple of the 3 phase regulators off of Suzuki 4 wheelers I've stripped.
Thank you.
Even if I end up not meeting, I'd like to know it's done right and good for a long time.
Even drained of oil for weeks, it's still showing drips. True British.