[StuartMac]

Hi Eli,

number plate bracket with less offset

82-6850

If you fit the two brackets the other way up - "less offset" under the lamp, "more offset" at the bottom of the plate, the plate will be angled for less wind resistance ...

New housing

You'll have realised the Red wire out of the lamp isn't the "earth" ... As there are two wires and two bulb filaments, "earth" is actually a copy of original Lucas "magic earth" (i.e. it works by magic ... ); for long-term reliability, I advise a third wire beside the other two under the mudguard between the lamp and existing Red 'earth' wires under the seat:-

. if you can get the lamp end of the new wire into the lamp itself beside the existing two, solder its bared end to the lamp holder;

. if you can't get the new wire into the lamp itself, connect it under one of the Allen screws in your photo.

Hth.

Regards,

 

[StuartMac]

Hi Eli,

reverted to a UK style rear lamp

Aside, strictly-speaking, it wasn't. The lamp itself was originally only on '66-'70 US-market models ('66/'67 on a smaller polished ally housing without reflectors, your housing is '68-'70), wasn't fitted on UK models before '71 except to the triples. '66-'70 'UK & General Export' models except the triples continued to have the earlier pressed-tin numberplate mounting and lamp.

Nevertheless, are you planning to fit the reflectors to the sides of the ally housing? If yes, be aware the standard mounting bits are For the same ally housing on my T150, I carefully levered the edges of the tin reflector mountings 'til I could remove the reflectors themselves, took out the crappy mounting 'bolts', replaced 'em with short stainless coach bolts, refitted the reflectors in their tin mountings and squeezed the edges back over the reflectors. As the coach bolts are threaded, I could then use ordinary stainless nuts 'n' washers to mount the reflectors on the housing.

Hth.

Regards,

 

[EliTR6]

Saw those long bolts off inside the mudguard. looks like they could contact the tyre if the bike is loaded

Cheers Replaced with shorter bolts

There should be a second number plate bracket with less offset that secures the bottom of the plate, you’ll probably find the plate will flap around and break if just secured at the top edge. It will also make a dreadful racket rattling against the mudguard at certain RPMs 😂

View attachment 864226

I think I've got a second bracket somewhere in my spares box. Thanks!

Hi Eli,

82-6850

If you fit the two brackets the other way up - "less offset" under the lamp, "more offset" at the bottom of the plate, the plate will be angled for less wind resistance ...


You'll have realised the Red wire out of the lamp isn't the "earth" ... As there are two wires and two bulb filaments, "earth" is actually a copy of original Lucas "magic earth" (i.e. it works by magic ... ); for long-term reliability, I advise a third wire beside the other two under the mudguard between the lamp and existing Red 'earth' wires under the seat:-

. if you can get the lamp end of the new wire into the lamp itself beside the existing two, solder its bared end to the lamp holder;

. if you can't get the new wire into the lamp itself, connect it under one of the Allen screws in your photo.

Hth.

Regards,

Yes, good idea. Will sort shortly. Thanks!

Hi Eli,

Aside, strictly-speaking, it wasn't. The lamp itself was originally only on '66-'70 US-market models ('66/'67 on a smaller polished ally housing without reflectors, your housing is '68-'70), wasn't fitted on UK models before '71 except to the triples. '66-'70 'UK & General Export' models except the triples continued to have the earlier pressed-tin numberplate mounting and lamp.

Nevertheless, are you planning to fit the reflectors to the sides of the ally housing? If yes, be aware the standard mounting bits are For the same ally housing on my T150, I carefully levered the edges of the tin reflector mountings 'til I could remove the reflectors themselves, took out the crappy mounting 'bolts', replaced 'em with short stainless coach bolts, refitted the reflectors in their tin mountings and squeezed the edges back over the reflectors. As the coach bolts are threaded, I could then use ordinary stainless nuts 'n' washers to mount the reflectors on the housing.

Hth.

Regards,

I will eventually. Apparently some of the repro reflectors fit OK and some of them are utter cack. I hope I don't have to do your mod, sounds like something I would easily break!

I've readjusted the front mudguard, it's not perfect but it's better than it was!

My little helper is back, she found the best seat in the house to eat a chocolate biscuit. Please excuse the mess!

 

[rambo]

Looks like the helper has been getting a knee down on corners

 

[StuartMac]

Hi Eli,

repro reflectors
Apparently some
fit OK and some of them are utter cack.
hope I don't have to do your mod, sounds like something I would easily break!

The standard reflector mounting bits are the "utter cack" - obviously done just to save a few pennies, bugger the owners!

The metal surrounds to my T150's reflectors were thin sheet steel - "tin" - bent easily first to get the reflectors out to change the bolts then back again around the reflectors to clamp 'em again.

In years to come, say you want to remove the reflectors to polish the housing; coach bolts, nuts 'n' washers'll need a standard spanner, 82-8195 "Push fix" (aka "starlock washers") and standard mounting 'bolts' will have to be destroyed ... necessitating either the mod. I've suggested or new reflectors ...

Hth.

Regards,

 

[EliTR6]

Quick question, how many evenings should I expect (hope?) to spend replacing the prt seals and rocker gaskets?

I've got a set from Norman Hyde I bought a while ago but never got around to using.

Thanks!

 

[rambo]

Quick question, how many evenings should I expect (hope?) to spend replacing the prt seals and rocker gaskets?

I've got a set from Norman Hyde I bought a while ago but never got around to using.

Thanks!

View attachment 866101

Its a fair bit of work with the cleaning and perhaps grind in the valves plus clean pistons. Normally if i have the head off i change piston rings and base gasket too. This job might take 16 hours.
The exhausts have to come off, tappets to adjust. Putting all the tools back and cleaning up. There was a time when i would do it in about 10 hours working non stop . Last engine build took 4 and a half days from in the bike, remove fit new crank, build and put back. 10 hour days but now, i could more than double that. Age slows it all down.
You do know the head has to come off ?

 

[EliTR6]

Its a fair bit of work with the cleaning and perhaps grind in the valves plus clean pistons. Normally if i have the head off i change piston rings and base gasket too. This job might take 16 hours.
The exhausts have to come off, tappets to adjust. Putting all the tools back and cleaning up. There was a time when i would do it in about 10 hours working non stop . Last engine build took 4 and a half days from in the bike, remove fit new crank, build and put back. 10 hour days but now, i could more than double that. Age slows it all down.
You do know the head has to come off ?

Hi Rambo, yes head off but I won't go as far as removing the crank.

Pistons and valves have only a few thousand miles on them so shouldn't need attention.

Working to your time estimate, I could prep and strip next week over a couple of evenings and tackle ressembly in the mornings on the weekend, starting early so I don't neglect the kids too much.

Thanks!

 

[StuartMac]

Hi Eli,

so I don't neglect the kids too much.

Empty cupboard, packet of biscuits.

Hth.

Regards,

 

[EliTR6]

Hi all,

The usual suspects conspired against me so I have decided to wait until later in the year to address the prt seals.

This evening I washed the engine and chain, drained the oil and fitted a new filter.

Not even a drop came out of the primary drain hole but there is oil in there, I dangled a wire down the clutch adjustment hole. It's a 1970 model so primary and engine oil are shared so I think the oil will eventually be renewed with the bike running.

I also took the opportunity of easy access to change the swing arm grease nipple to an angled one and pumped it full of fresh grease.

I then realised I have less than a litre of 20w50 left so I had to move on to another project, the reflectors on the rear light unit. I followed @StuartMac's instructions and bent the tabs back, then tapped the holes in the housing and used some fixings I found in the big pot of random bits.

 

[StuartMac]

Hi Eli,

drained the oil
Not even a drop came out of the primary drain hole but there is oil in there, I dangled a wire down the clutch adjustment hole.

The primary gasket is wider than the crankcase and primary cover mating surfaces. The drain plug is in the primary cover. The oil hides on the engine side of the gasket. After the first time you remove the primary cover, you never forget to put a long drain can/bowl/whatever under the full length of the primary ...

1970 model so primary and engine oil are shared so I think the oil will eventually be renewed with the bike running.

Uh-uh, it just festers there, putting more and more engine cack and clutch bits in the chain. Buy a cheap garage-type engine oil removal pump, suck the old primary oil out.

another project, the reflectors on the rear light unit. I followed @StuartMac's instructions
View attachment 866750
View attachment 866751

For any following reader, I replaced the standard bolts with stainless coach bolts (for the square part under each head fitting in the square holes in the reflector base plate), used standard nuts and washers on the coach bolts protruding inside the ally lamp mounting.

Hth.

Regards,

 

[EliTR6]

Hi Stuart

Cheers. I have a syringe type pump knocking around somewhere, will have a look this evening.

I added washers and nuts to the rearmost bolts, my fingers couldn't reach the front ones

Best

Eli

 

[GrandPaulZ]

Gotta love a QD rear wheel!

 

[EliTR6]

The garage elf is back!

Tappets set (by ear), plugs cleaned and gaps checked, tyres pumped up a smidge (28/30 instead of my usual 26/28 to compensate for my stupidly heavy tent and sleeping bag ensemble) and I went for a 10mi ride to warm up the chain before greasing it. I couldn't find a tube small enough to fit past the clutch assembly so left the primary as it in afraid.

The PRT seal is leaking quite badly, although land rovers and triumphs have taught me that puddles of oil generally look worse than they really are.

I've wrapped a rag around it so I don't drench the road in oil. I hope it doesn't ignite, I've read that the cylinder head shouldn't be hotter than 120degC and the flash point for 20w50 is 250degC so science says it will be OK.

Can I overfill the oil tank to anticipate some for oil loss? I was thinking an extra inch over the full mark on the dipstick.

At least my rear brake still has a full lining, unlike my riding buddy's!

 

[StuartMac]

Hi Eli,

tyres
usual 26/28

None of the tyre makers have recommended pressures that low since the 1970's ... Normal solo pressures should be 28/29 (2 bar) front, 32/33 (2.2/2.3 bar) rear. Then, if your tent/sleeping bag weight is similar to that of another human, +6 psi/0.5 bar in both tyres.

Hth.

Regards,

 

[EliTR6]

Hi Eli,

None of the tyre makers have recommended pressures that low since the 1970's ... Normal solo pressures should be 28/29 (2 bar) front, 32/33 (2.2/2.3 bar) rear. Then, if your tent/sleeping bag weight is similar to that of another human, +6 psi/0.5 bar in both tyres.

Hth.

Regards,

Thanks Stuart, I'll pump them up accordingly

Any thoughts on adding a bit of extra oil to the tank?

Cheers

Eli

 

[StuartMac]

Hi Eli,

extra oil to the tank?

Having dealt with the mess from a tank overflow (thankfully not just before or during a trip), I've always preferred to carry a litre bottle on a trip.

Hth.

Regards,

 

[EliTR6]

Hi Eli,

Having dealt with the mess from a tank overflow (thankfully not just before or during a trip), I've always preferred to carry a litre bottle on a trip.

Hth.

Regards,

Thanks

I always carry a half litre one stashed in the side panel. Will try to squeeze in another one somewhere.

Cheers

 

[StuartMac]

Hi Eli,

I always carry a half litre one stashed in the side panel. Will try to squeeze in another one somewhere.

I had the litre bottle only because the Duckhams I was using only came in either 1-litre or 5-litre. You'll know how much the bike is using; if at least the oil viscosity's available around where you're going, the half-litre could be enough?

Regards,

 

[EliTR6]

Hi Eli,

I had the litre bottle only because the Duckhams I was using only came in either 1-litre or 5-litre. You'll know how much the bike is using; if at least the oil viscosity's available around where you're going, the half-litre could be enough?

Regards,

We're off to a vintage car and bike Hill Climb so there should be plenty of oil knocking about but probably not for us. Plus we already have a camping spot to blag!

I've secured an extra litre on the back of the luggage rack, along with my tool kit and an empty fuel container.

I have space on the rack anyway as I wasn't happy with the weight (13kg) of the tent/sleeping bag/mattress so far behind the rear axle so I've ended up with an uncomfortable riding position but hopefully safer and with better handling.

Before

After

350mi to cover tomorrow afternoon!