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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
She's here!

Freed the clutch and she started first kick, checked oil return and took her for a quick spin around the block. There's quite a bit of tinkering needed, the bike pulls to the right and the whole fork was skewed to the right during the ride.

The clutch needs adjusting, obviously the front tyre needs to be changed straight away but the engine feels a LOT more potent than the 500. It only has 200mi on it since an engine rebuild 7 years ago. I've got loads of invoices and a breakdown of what the PO has spent on the bike since he's owned it. And the tank obviously needs a repaint!

I've got gold seals on the front and roadrunners on the back. Swap for K70s on both like the T100C? They've been holding up well and look the part.

It's a good project bike with a lot of the hard stuff already done. It's great because having the 500 allows me to know what it should feel like to ride and it's not there yet...

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Idling after first startup, before my test ride:

 

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Looks good. Go for RoadRunner2's over the K70. I did this year on my 73 Tiger 750 - a whole world of difference. You'll enjoy the bike on modern tyres much more.

I'd swap that Zener and the rectifier for a modern reg/rec - they are only around £30. Leave the Zener in place for effect though!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Looks good. Go for RoadRunner2's over the K70. I did this year on my 73 Tiger 750 - a whole world of difference. You'll enjoy the bike on modern tyres much more.

I'd swap that Zener and the rectifier for a modern reg/rec - they are only around £30. Leave the Zener in place for effect though!
Thanks Andy

Currently running 4.10x18 on the rear and 3.50x19 on the front. The rear wheel isn't filling the wheelarch at all, is the 4.10 a low profile tyre?

Looking at new tyres in 4.00x18 for the rear and 3.25x19 for the front as per the manual.

Podtronic rectifier on the shopping list too, thanks !

Best

Eli
 

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I think Andy means the Avon Roadrider MkIIs

Or try the Conti Classic Attacks, I’ve had a few sets of Trail Attacks which are similar and they’re amazing, if I’d known about the Classics a few months ago I’d have fitted them to my Tiger.
 

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It’s unbelievable that a 1970 bike these days is over half a century old already, where did time go.
nice classic triumph, lucky U! …FTG
 

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Hi Eli,
is the 4.10 a low profile tyre?
Yes. :) Classic mistake by the PO, thinking "4.10" will be physically bigger that a "4.00".

Looking at new tyres in 4.00x18 for the rear and 3.25x19 for the front.
Sizes available from several makers, as well as Dunlop (K70), Avon (Roadriders), Conti, Michelin, Bridgestone, etc. Only thing you have to watch is "4.00" and 3.25" are "section widths", not overall widths, Triumph wasn't generous with space between rotating tyres and not-rotating other bits and modern-design tyres are wider overall than older designs - e.g. K70.

Roadriders are good but a European or Japanese brand might be easier for you to obtain?

If you go for Conti ClassicAttack radials, you'll need 110/90x18 rear, 100/90x19 front. However, be aware, unless the front rim has been changed for a 2.15 width, original is 1.85 or equivalent WM2, no tyre maker says you can fit their 100-width tyres to a 1.85/WM2 rim. (n)

Podtronic rectifier on the shopping list too,
Ime, don't rush to f--k with the wiring unless either rectifier or Zener has failed - as with any electronics, they work 'til they don't, no reason to automatically assume they'll fail imminently and you're doing yourself some sort of favour replacing them while they still work. Ime, I sooner suspect other electrics - e.g. red- and blue- (and yellow-?) insulated bodger's terminals - will give problems before a working standard rectifier or Zener.

Hth.

Regards,
 

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I'm with Stuart on this one. No need to just automatically replace the zener and rectifier. If they're working, they're working. Run them until they don't. I have several vintage triumphs still running the original zeners and rectifiers. If they fail, I'll replace them with something modern. Use your money for more pressing concerns.

Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Is there something bent at the front or will it respond to loosening the yoke pinch bolts and axle and giving it a wiggle?
Roadriders are good but a European or Japanese brand might be easier for you to obtain?

Ime, don't rush to f--k with the wiring unless either rectifier or Zener has failed - as with any electronics, they work 'til they don't, no reason to automatically assume they'll fail imminently and you're doing yourself some sort of favour replacing them while they still work. Ime, I sooner suspect other electrics - e.g. red- and blue- (and yellow-?) insulated bodger's terminals - will give problems before a working standard rectifier or Zener.
I'm with Stuart on this one. No need to just automatically replace the zener and rectifier. If they're working, they're working. Run them until they don't. I have several vintage triumphs still running the original zeners and rectifiers. If they fail, I'll replace them with something modern. Use your money for more pressing concerns.

Rob
Thanks

The front wheel will have to come off to fit a new tyre so I'll have a good hunt around while the bike is up on the stand.

I've ordered the road riders from the UK this morning (3.25*19 and 4.00*18), along with a new slimline tank, UK style handlebars, new cables and a few other bits (but no podtronics for now ;)).

Hopefully the parts will turn up before the end of the Xmas holidays and I can have the bike ready to ride safely by early Jan.

I've got a stage 1 kit for the mini to fit so I've got a project for the Xmas break
 

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Hi Eli,
I've ordered the road riders from the UK
along with
... shows bodged oil tank top mountings - the important anti-vibe rubber bushes are obviously knackered and the centre mountings through them are some sort of hex. bolts - the correct parts are 82-7510 "Screwed peg", which are two different diameters inside the bush.

While you're at it, check the oil tank bottom mounting is all present and correct? I had to have one of the T160's oil tank mountings brazed after it cracked; if a triple can do for a poorly-mounted tank, a 650 twin definitely will! :(

Btw, the beautifully terminated/heat-shrinked Red wires connected to the oil tank mounting bolts are the electrical equivalent of the proverbial chocolate teaspoon ... :sneaky:

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Hi Eli,


... shows bodged oil tank top mountings - the important anti-vibe rubber bushes are obviously knackered and the centre mountings through them are some sort of hex. bolts - the correct parts are 82-7510 "Screwed peg", which are two different diameters inside the bush.

While you're at it, check the oil tank bottom mounting is all present and correct? I had to have one of the T160's oil tank mountings brazed after it cracked; if a triple can do for a poorly-mounted tank, a 650 twin definitely will! :(

Btw, the beautifully terminated/heat-shrinked Red wires connected to the oil tank mounting bolts are the electrical equivalent of the proverbial chocolate teaspoon ... :sneaky:

Hth.

Regards,
Thanks Stuart, I've ordered the correct parts.

I'm also looking to buy a tricor oil filter kit which I'll swap with the Norton filter style one currently mounted on the 500.

The engine had new pistons and valves fitted 8 years but only 200mi ago. The PO retorqued the head bolts recently but advised me to check again in a few hundred miles. It doesn't seem to be smoking so the rings should have bedded in OK.

Should I be careful for the next 300 or 800mi or consider it run in and just enjoy it?
 

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Hi Eli,
buy a tricor oil filter kit which I'll swap with the Norton filter style one currently mounted on the 500.
Whichever bike you're planning to fit with the Tricor filter kit, advise when you order - the frames can apparently have slightly different diameter tubes, Andy apparently does slightly different clamps for the two.

Btw, the more I study your photo. I linked in my previous post, I realise the battery, carrier and mounting aren't correct:- :(

. The battery appears to have its vent directly over the edge of the oil tank; does it have a vent pipe attached? If not, the sulphuric acid in the vented vapour isn't going to do any good to the surrounding paint or ultimately the underlying steel.

. The battery appears to be a Yuasa? If so and it's a 12N9 or 12N7, while I'd also fit one with the terminals towards the rear and negative terminal beside the oil tank, those batteries are available in two versions, vent on different sides relative to the terminals ...

. A Yuasa 12N9 or 12N7 or equivalent should pretty-much fill the standard carrier that hangs between the front and rear "straps"; it shouldn't need to be packed out with bits of white plastic. However, it's possible the bits of plastic are there because:-

.. there's something weird with the "Rear strap" from the drive-side of the frame to the oil tank - if you enter "triumph 82-8028" into your preferred internet search engine and look at the returned images, you'll see what I mean; unfortunately, I'm not sure what else is wrong because I'm away from home so can't look at my bikes; :(

.. the battery carrier isn't the correct 82-8024, because of that weird "Rear strap".

. You might want to confirm the battery is sitting on a 82-8091 "rubber tray" for vibe isolation?

. Note the stud attached to both front and rear "straps"? One should have a special 82-8034 "Spigot nut", so it can be screwed up tight against the battery carrier but still take the 82-8032 "Battery strap anchorage" (buckle to you 'n' me ...); the other end of the 82-8033 rubber strap threads through horizontal slots in the battery carrier; when secured at both ends, it pulls the battery on to the aforementioned "rubber tray".

. Finally here, the original battery carriers had two strips of thin rubber - 82-8031 - one each at the top of the front and rear of the carrier - whichever way you fit the strap and buckle, when tightened, it pulls the battery against the 'buckle side' of the carrier. My T100 has exactly the same bits, I wasn't impressed by the standard carrier front and rear anti-vibe strips, I used stick-on thicker closed-cell foam that held the battery more tightly, stops it tipping towards the buckle when the strap's fitted.

new pistons and valves fitted 8 years but only 200mi ago
doesn't seem to be smoking so the rings should have bedded in OK.
careful for the next 300 or 800mi or consider it run in and just enjoy it?
Mmmm ... imho, maybe as long as "enjoying it" doesn't include checking its absolute top speed for a few more hundred miles ...?

Hth.

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks Stuart. I've got a new "maintainance free" battery here ready to fit.

The oil tank mounting and brackets alloy seem fine.

The rear lamp holder is fugly. I might have a spare assembly for the t100 knocking around in the shed.

I received the new paint today, it's going to look very smart!


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