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Eastern Beaver PC-8 with 30A relay kit?

4.1K views 10 replies 4 participants last post by  Felony  
#1 ·
When I bought my 09 SE, it had (and still has) a battery tender cable directly attached to the battery. I then added a Garmin 590, which had a fused harness, so I attached that directly to the battery as well. Later, when I wanted to make a November run down to the NYC Marathon, I added a fused cable for heated gear (65W jacket and pant liners, which are actually used very rarely (once per season maybe), but when I want them, i want them now). Upon attaching the heated gear, I found that the battery terminal bolt would no longer reach far enough into the terminal to engage the nut inside the post.... my first hint that I needed to find a better system.

I have just purchased a Scottoiler e-system. This is the electronic version, that purports to use only a few milliamps of power. it is meant to be attached directly to the battery.....

I am now looking at Accessory Fuse Blocks and am interested in the Eastern Beaver with a 30Amp relay (I think that there is not enough power in the bike to drive the 50A). There is possibly enough room on the ledge behind the battery, or I might be able to find a sheltered spot underneath the battery box near the main fusebox (The airbox has been removed).

I have two questions: Is there a better way to do this?

For those who have installed accessory panels on your Bonnies: where did you put it. We are just not blessed with the same room that the V-Strom has in Eastern Beaver's installation guide. :headscratch
 
#3 ·
Fitted a fuse panel for my Bonneville SE a while back. Quite straightforward in the end, and used heavy gauge wire throughout. Definitely worth doing I think. I also fabricated a mount for a cigarette lighter socket and power outlet.



 
#4 · (Edited)
Plantbi;8626817 I am now looking at Accessory Fuse Blocks and am interested in the Eastern Beaver with a 30Amp relay (I think that there is not enough power in the bike to drive the 50. :headscratch[/QUOTE said:
The amperage stated on the relay for a particular voltage tells you how much power(watts) the relay can safely handle at that voltage. A 30A rating at 12VDC will give you a power rating of 360 watts. The 50A at the same voltage would be 600 watts. It's not a matter of driving the relay but how much power all your accessories will add up on the switched power circuits of the fuse panel. The Eastern Beaver setup uses a remote relay vs many of the other switched fuse panels have an integrated relay soldered into the circuit board. It's easier to replace the relay if needed for the EB than the others, but that is not the only criteria for picking one fuse block over another.

On my Ninja, I'm using this EB fuse block(3 circuit solution) since I only have three accessories that are hot all the time.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/3_Circuit/3_circuit.html
 
#5 · (Edited)
Thanks Mic for the photos. Your box looks significantly smaller than the EB one. Do you mind telling me which one it is?

And thanks to you Felony.... I have read in different places that there is not a lot of overhead between what the generator produces and what the bike uses. I want to be cautious about this, but the 50 amp would definitely be preferable as I anticipate having 4 empty fuses. Are you saying that adding a 50 amp should not cause overload problems down the road? (My four inline fuses currently add up to 28 amps (15+7+3+3)).
 
#8 ·
#6 ·
You are correct that the bike's charging system produces just so much power and there is a finite amount leftover for powering accessories. You still have to add up the power requirements of all your added on accessories(down the road) to determine if this number exceeds the leftover from the charging system. And, what the relay can handle. You probably will not be using all accessories at once so that is something to consider as well. And, some of the accessories might draw very little power. Heated clothing and grips tend to draw the most power. So, picking the 50A relay is not going to hurt anything as long as the accessory power does not exceed what the bike can handle. The relay itself is not drawing 50A. The relay coil uses very little power to operate. Look at all the accessories that you have now, locate their power draw and add them up. You are not going to be using the battery charging cable while riding. Seems like that you would be using the Scottoiler and Garmin most of the time, with adding the heated gear at some point. Add up the max power requirement and go from there.
 
#7 · (Edited)
Thanks again Felony,

Good advice. I may move it up to the 50 amp, just in case, but you are right, the 7 amp fuse is my battery tender, either provides power input when the bike is tuned off, or sometimes charges my cell phone, which does not draw anywhere near 7 amps, when in motion.

Still need ideas on where to mount it. :unsure
 
#9 ·
Thanks again Mick.

The EB is a little wider than the rack that you have yours mounted to, but it might fit. I'm not brave (read knowledgable) enough to do this peacemeal, but I really do like the size of your panel and I really only need 5 or six fuses total... 8 is a bit overkill.

To anybody: Is there a smaller panel set, perhaps from a different supplier, that would offer me 35 to 40 amps, a relay, and 5 to 6 fuses (at least 1 unswitched?)

I know I'm asking for a lot, but somebody knows if this thing exists.

Thanks in advance
 
#10 ·
FWIW I used the EB panel you are looking at on my R12GSW . Plenty if room under the passenger seat. What is nice about it is it can have a couple fuses hot all the time and the others switched through a relay. The battery tender is non switched. I use a SAE to coaxial adapter to plug my heated jacket to the tender pigtail.
It's a great fuse box. Sorry I can't help with info on where to mount it on a Triumph. My only electical accessory on the scrambler is the occasional use of my heated jacket. Plugs into the battery tender.

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