It's an exe. A self-contained installer wizard that takes you through the install. Although I am comfortable using TuneECU, I think this is a good delivery platform as it requires no knowledge of TuneECU, you just need a properly installed OBD cable and the ability to follow on-screen instructions.

 

Quick question. Now that I have a TTP tune in my ECU and my bike has no SAI or O2 sensors, I obviously have no need for resistors in the SAI connector or O2 connectors. However, I still have a resistor in the SAI connector and dummy plugs in the O2 connectors. I should probably remove them, but do I need to bother? I expect these are doing no harm and they are all taped up cleanly. Can someone confirm?

 

I expect these are doing no harm and they are all taped up cleanly. Can someone confirm?

Apart from a little extra electrical load, I don't think there's a problem. The O2 sensors have their heaters energised for a few seconds on start-up, but the AI has permanent power applied to that resistor except at deceleration and idle speeds.

 

Great, thanks. I guess I will pull them out when I'm next under the bike doing another job. First test spin later tonight with the new tune. Oh yeah.

 

Just got back from a night ride through West London, round Hyde Park then Kensington and back home to Ealing. Not exactly the twisties I yearn for but an opportunity to test out the mods/tune. All I can say is wow.

Throttle is now like butter and it pulls like an ox. Not aggressive or spurty, just more power but under effortless control and so much more predictable and smooth. Slow speed manoeuvres or getting up to speed in a hurry, both handled beautifully. It's like a different bike.

I started out with my new bike (back in September) knowing that I wanted to do work on it but very cautious about the warranty. Now I am so glad I said balls to the warranty and did these simple but hugely effective mods. They will pay for themselves with the savings I will make by doing all future work myself. Anyone sitting on the fence should seriously consider whether they want to wait 2 years for this much fun. Pieman, hats off to you. Couldn't be happier with the results. If a pootle in the city can give me a grin this big, I can't wait to get her out on the country roads. My grin didn't even fade when testing out my new twin horns on a potential smidsy while going through Notting Hill. A quick parp!, a downshift and then silky smooth as I wound it on again. This tune really has done wonders.

 

…….pulls like an ox…..getting up to speed in a hurry…..

Its time to put these mag wheel pilots out of their misery. Time for a T100 record !

Publication............Pub-Date.........Tested...................1/4 mile secs & terminal speed
motorcycle usa.....May, 2013.....2013 Bonneville SE..............13.87 & 97
cycle world...........Sep, 2010......2010 Bonneville SE.............13.24 & 101

Get yours out to the strip (dry) and put down a number in the 12’s !

The stars are aligned, mate. The bike is nicely broken in (new ECU too !). The cool drizzly air in London is loaded with oxygen and H2O. That’ll carry a lot of fuel through the injectors . The hagons will control the speed wobble nearing the end of the quarter mile. Remember: chain freeplay 15-20mm, throttle cable play less than 1-2mm. Put an extra couple pounds pressure in the front, and a couple less in the rear, as the Metzlers represent your only weak point. Good luck !

Don't worry about warranty issues !

 

:beerchug

 

Sounds like it's running not too bad then ? evil3:badum

 

I took my bike out after uploading ttp #4, seems to run flawlessly, I'm very happy, bike had never even been ridden, I did all mods BEFORE I even rode it!!! Love the Scrambler BTW, only thing that bothered me was the "humming" of the semi know by tires, but the sound with the Arrow exhaust without baffles was worth the money!

 

- input on exhaust modifications & TTP tune

I have removed the airbox and installed K&N pod filters on my 2014 Thruxton. I am looking for any help you folks can offer on what pipe modifications and which TTP tune will give me the best bang for my bike... and buck.

I would like to do a complete bafflectomy to my stock pipes. Meaning- I am going to cut the pipe apart at the header end, remove the honeycomb baffle, drill larger holes in the baffles, and cut off the tend of the pipe to look "predator-esque".

My other option that I am considering is to purchase the TEC 2-1 system, and use just the headers. I would weld on a Cone Engineering performance muffler. I want the muffler to follow parallel to the frame/seat weight-line similar to the stock pipes. Drives me nuts that no aftermarket pipes do this (high enough not to scrape).

Would the bafflectomy with tune 11 or the TEC 2-1 modified with tune 11 2-1 be better/worse/indifferent?

Please don't get hung up in the pipe debate on this one too much... I will be honest- I just can't look at my complete bike and feel right in thinking that the exhaust pipes are worth more than 15% total cost of my new Thruxton (Arrow's are $1500 in Canada... maaaybe $75-100 in material ). But that is a separate thread- please don't attack - it is just my opinion.

Thoughts?

 

I have removed the airbox and installed K&N pod filters on my 2014 Thruxton. I am looking for any help you folks can offer on what pipe modifications and which TTP tune will give me the best bang for my bike... and buck.

I would like to do a complete bafflectomy to my stock pipes. Meaning- I am going to cut the pipe apart at the header end, remove the honeycomb baffle, drill larger holes in the baffles, and cut off the tend of the pipe to look "predator-esque".

My other option that I am considering is to purchase the TEC 2-1 system, and use just the headers. I would weld on a Cone Engineering performance muffler. I want the muffler to follow parallel to the frame/seat weight-line similar to the stock pipes. Drives me nuts that no aftermarket pipes do this (high enough not to scrape).

Would the bafflectomy with tune 11 or the TEC 2-1 modified with tune 11 2-1 be better/worse/indifferent?

Please don't get hung up in the pipe debate on this one too much... I will be honest- I just can't look at my complete bike and feel right in thinking that the exhaust pipes are worth more than 15% total cost of my new Thruxton (Arrow's are $1500 in Canada... maaaybe $75-100 in material ). But that is a separate thread- please don't attack - it is just my opinion.

Thoughts?

You've already modified the inlet side of your motor, so any open pipes you install will require a new ECU tune.

What pipes to go for? Well that's a very personal question and really only you can decide that. What do you like the look of, what do you like the sound of?

What I can say is that the TEC 2 into 1 or 2 into 2 full systems are beautifully made and superb value. This would allow you to keep your std system, standard. So at some stage in the future you can put them back on, come sale time.

The TTP tunes take into account inlet mods (known quantity) as well as exhaust mods (unknown quantity). They usually talk about short or long open pipes, not individual makes. That tells me that the open pipe selection is not THAT critical.

Good luck

Dave

 

It's why I chose NH Togas. Classic look and not too far from stock in looks (but nicer looking in my view) and not outrageously expensive. They also sound incredible. Rich without being farty and obnoxious. You can see my bike with them fitted in my recent What did you do...post. I would not bother with hacking your stock pipes. I doubt you'll be satisfied with them after all that effort anyway and you'd be better off selling them to offset some of the cost of replacements.

 

Thanks for input guys. Biglad- you bring up a neat point. Just wondering from the TTP crowd where the bigger contribution is found ? Is the "in" more important than the "out" ?

My butt-dyno prefers the feel of low-end grunt. Do the duel headers offer more low-end pull than the 2-into-1?

 

Hi Manny, re the "in" versus "out" modification road, you need to do both in balance really - it's all about getting more fuel and air through the engine, so to do this you need better inlet and better outlet characteristics.

re the 2 into 2 versus 2 into 1, I can't speak from personal experience, but an expert on here reckons that the 2 into 1 gives slightly better mid range and the 2 into 2 gives slightly better top end.

From the way the report was written it sounded to me like in real terms you might not even feel the difference.

Cheers Dave

PS Big open pipes just sound better too !!!!!!

 

Manny, here you go.

As you can see a 2-2 system with pods gives a much better torque curve than a 2-1 system.

If your butt-dyno prefers low-mid range grunt, you're going to need to replace your airbox and modify that. Here's a dyno comparing tune 11 and tune 2 2-1.

With airbox mods and a 2-1 exhaust system, you lose out above 6,000rpm compared to tune 11, but you gain loads of mid range torque that you'll use every time you ride your bike.

 

Thank you Mike.

I'm still a little confused by the "2-2 gives a much better torque curve" followed bu the "2-1 exhaust system, you lose out above 6,000rpm... gain loads of mid range torque that you'll use every time you ride your bike" - could you clarify for a dyno rookie which set-up gives the best short-shifting pull away feel?

I have already completely removed my airbox and installed pod filters on the bike (AI & O2 completely removed as well). All that it awaits is pipes and a tune.

I am leaning towards a 2-1 (as apposed to doing a bafflectomy that will constantly have me questioning if "I did it right"?). I know I am the odd one out- but I prefer the look of them.

 

Take a look at the top graph, the red trace is pods with 2-2 and the blue is pods with a 2-1. The 2-2 system gives a better torque curve everywhere except between 4 - 4,500rpm and above 7,500rpm.

 

Take a look at the top graph, the red trace is pods with 2-2 and the blue is pods with a 2-1. The 2-2 system gives a better torque curve everywhere except between 4 - 4,500rpm and above 7,500rpm.

The 2-1 looks better between about 3300 and 5500 (in the second torque graph) to me????

 

Yeah, but that's with the airbox in place with airbox mods, Manny has removed his airbox. I put that one up as he said he preferred low-mid range grunt and it shows how much of that you get with airbox mods.

 

Hey Mike - sorry if this is previously discussed, but your website offers "Tune Download Service" What is this exactly?

Like everybody else I plan on using the software on my laptop to install the new tune. Long silencers, Bellmouth, 02 delete, high flow filter.

Thank you sir!

 

Hi Ton - We provide this service for owners who don't have access to a Windows PC or who don't possess the required knowledge to carry out the reprogramming. It involves removing the ECM, sending it to us, plugging it back in when it is returned and then a 20 minute idle from a cold engine.

 

Oh and big thumbs up to PieMan!

 

Update on mods on my thrux. Bought bike new, it seemed to run fine but vibrated and ran really hot, thought I might have made a mistake buying that bike. Stock exhaust was waaay to quiet for me, had dealer install and remap Arrow 2 into 2 pipes at my first oil change.

Now it ran way too rich, fuel mileage dropped from 320km/tank to 240km/tank and it loaded up like a two stroke at low rpm. I bought a cable, installed a map myself that made the bike run better (still running rich though)+ I pulled the snorkel out. Things were definitely improving but I still had off idle throttle snatch that drove me nuts, I would use a higher gear at low revs to try to minimize it. Over the winter I pulled out the airbox baffle, put a DNA filter and TTP breathe cover on. AI tube got a marble zip tied in it, O2 sensors were removed and muffler baffles were gutted. I also loaded the TTP tune #3 for thrux....and waited for spring.

Finally got a chance to go for a 80km two-up ride and I am happy to report the bike is running much better. There is no bogging or hesitation while accelerating and the snatchiness is almost gone. With a bit more fine tuning on drive chain and throttle cable I believe I can improve it some more.

I cannot really tell if there is more power but the bike pulls hard right from low revs in any gear. I will need more time riding to determine if there was a horsepower gain but there is a definite drive-ability improvement. Along with the suspension mods I made this summer is shaping up to be a good one.


A shout out to Mike for his EFI map, it really has helped this bike!

 

.......................................................
Now it ran way too rich, fuel mileage dropped from 320km/tank to 240km/tank and it loaded up like a two stroke at low rpm.
.................................................A shout out to Mike for his EFI map, it really has helped this bike!

Hi Stoanee, can I just ask you to clarify the distances please, in particular the 320kms on a tank of fuel? That's way more than I have ever got. Normally the light comes on mine - with similar mods to yours - at about 200kms but the max on a tank for me is 270kms.

320kms/1.6 = 200mls

16ltrs /4.54 = 3.52 UK galls

so mpg is 200/3.52 = 56.8 mpg (UK)

Cheers
Dave

 

I am also wondering about milage to a tank. I have the aftermarket pipe dealer map on my Bonneville and although the bike runs well my fuel light will come on between 89 and 100 miles routinely. I keep hearing people getting way more from a tank and it's making me wonder if my bike is way too rich or if where/how I ride my bike uses a lot of fuel.

I am planning on doing a TTP tune 3 with the relevant airbox mods and it will be interesting to see what happens to my fuel usage.

 

The best mileage was bone stock on a straight level highway with a tailwind.;-) I am not sure what my milage will be now with the changes I have made, I need some good weather to put on some kms to verify what I have now. To verify, my first 4 or so tanks netted me an average of 55-56mpg. After the first exhaust change it dropped to 42-42mpg. I hope I can coax some better numbers out of the bike now, time will tell.

 

There have been reports of dealers downloading the E25 map as opposed to the E10 map, the E25 map gulps down fuel and isn't needed unless you are in an area that uses the higher ethanol blends.

 

You know, I am not sure if I recorded the tune my dealer installed after the pipe change, but it was a bad choice. I installed a map for E10 and that made things better but it was still too rich. The way my bike is running now suggests that Piemans map is spot on for my mods. Darn weather took a turn for the worst again so it will be a few days before I can get out again.

Yesterdays run will not yield any usable fuel data as I was flogging the bike fairly hard.

 

I am running TTP tune 12. Now and I have KN filters airbox removal and the other general mods. Running BC Shorty preds.. It's loud and I need to run stock mufflers for a wile. Will TTP 12 be OK tune or will there be a better suted tune for my bike when running whit out airbox?

 

Help Please -

How hot is too hot during adaptation reset???

TTP EFI TuneLoader -TPS LED will not illuminate - Help please.

Installing TTP Tune - Thruxton Performance Tune 11-2-1. Tune download works fine. When I run the bike in the adaptation reset- The green LED will not come on before the engine gets to 115-120 degrees Celcius. I kill the engine at 115C out of fear/concern. I have 2 household fans blowing on the motor during run and ambient temp is 8C. The thermometer only goes to 120 so I'm not willing to go further. It takes about 10 minutes of idle to get to 115C. I am aware that many posts say 20 mins for adaptation reset.

Bike: 2014 Thrux 2-1 TEC Airbox removed (pod filters) SAI Removed O2 removed BUT** I have DynoJet O2 Sensor Eliminator Plugs fitted (IS THIS MY ISSUE?) Pretty straight forward- Why is my light not going green??

Help please Thanks -

 

I've just replied to you with some info on that on this thread:

http://www.triumphrat.net/twins-tec...alk/570329-ttp-tune-reset-adaptation-will-not-work-help-please.html#post6346937

 

Few questions about my scrambler and if I'm missing something.

2010 EFI scrambler with mechanical odometer.

Breath cover, DNA filter, baffle removed, Zard low cross exhaust, SAI and 02 sensors removed.

I installed Tune 4 and no problems loading the tune, I also adjusted TPS and the throttle bodies. Bike idles, and accelerates fine.

However at around town speeds 35-45 mph I seem to be getting some surging mainly in 3rd and 4th gear. Not sure of the RPM's since I don't have a tach but I would assume below 4k. Oddly enough if I up shift into 5th when it is surging in 4th gear it goes away.

Is there any else I can check to smooth out the fueling or could it improve possibly with more miles?

 

Yeah, I'm experiencing the same thing. I'm on a 2010 LCD/Tacho Scrambler with TORS, no baffle, no Breathe (but the same diameter hole in the intake cover), no SAI or O2 and running Tune 3.

Although it is a huge improvement over the OEM setup, I still find it surges and snatches at really low throttle openings, like when you are following 30-40 MPH, (50-65KPH) traffic. I lent the bike to a mate yesterday to run an errand. He rides an old Triumph Legend and when he returned it his first comment was that it was really fun to flick around but he hated the on-off throttle response!

 

I'm starting to wonder if this is just how these bikes handle the increased airflow of the mods. I've been dealing with this since I pulled my airbox and installed D&D slip-on pipes. I've tried 3 different tunes, two free ones and TTP #11 and all have the same horrible low throttle response. I've been trying to troubleshoot it and am pretty convinced it has something to do with the MAP sensors but as far as I can tell there isn't any way to fix it. Once you get above 3500 revs the TTP tune is an absolute dream - easily the best of the bunch - but it really baffles me that the low rev issue can't be addressed in the tune. I also run a 19t front sprocket so that only makes the problem worse as there's inherently less torque in low gears. I've taken to revving up over 3500 before taking off from a red light to avoid stalling. It's a bit annoying but I'm getting used to it.