Yes if you mark the Boyer position as you say it should go back OK - cant hurt to check it with a strobe after to be 100% sure - there are two seals in the cover and it makes sense to change both if the cover is comming off - BIG thing to be aware of when you remove the cover is that when the cover is off there is nothing holding the centre timing gear in place - it should stay in place - dont be tempted to pull it out as the valve timing will slip - the seal behind the boyer is a push fit in the cover - there is no step to push it up against - just push it into place with your thumb so it is flush with the case - the other seal is held in place by a circlip - remove it and lever out the seal - push the new one in and replace the circlip (proper circlip pliers make it easier) there is a small tapered tool that fits to the shaft that the Boyer rotor fits to - this spreads the new seal when the cover is replaced to prevent damage - can be done without but is recommended (not much cash to buy) -- like all jobs easy once you have done it a few times but can be daunting first time - go for it ! ( if my memory is working today the two seals are the same)

 

I'd think that it would work.

When I swapped the OEM RITA for a PAZON I got the bike to 38 degrees first, by using the pointer (you could use the notch if your bike doesn't have the pointer?) so that I knew where I was when changing the pick ups over. That might help? but a mark is a good idea
maybe a scratch as I once used a sharpie that rubbed of with oil.

There is a tool for the seal but think you can make do with a shim off a plastic bottle?

Have a feeling that plewsey's covered this with one of his videos (aka Lunmad) on youtube

 

Cheers , i should have known plewsey's done a video about it, where would we be without him ?? right time to order a pair of seals & watch the video a few times . Off to the TT next week (not on the tiger) so thats a job for when i return.
thanks again for the help
bodge

 

Like wol says be sure and order the little tool that guides the cam into its seal when you order your seals. Most parts suppliers carry it.

 

Both seals are the same.Make sure you fit them the right way round.Fitting the crank seal the wrong way and it will blow out.I never use a tool for the points seal.Seems to go in alright with fingers.Only other oddball is if someone has reground the crank where the oil seal is.Marking the points position is a good idea but you also have to be dead accurate with the plate that carries the magnets that also has to come off.A strobe really is the answer to get it accurate.Again,the lunmad videos have everything covered

 

No need to remove the timing cover.Screw a self-tapping screw into the side of the camshaft seal and pull it out.
Fit a new one.

Changing the crank seal can be a fatal mistake.If you don't use a good quality seal,like Pioneer-Weston,it could invert under pressure and you lose all your oil pressure.

 

Well its amazing what you learn on this forum...thanks everyone...now wheres the self tapping screw tin ???

 

I made the tapered tool on the lathe. The dimensions are here:

http://www.gabma.us/tools/D486_SealTool.pdf

Instead of the male threaded end I put a hole all the way through and used a caphead bolt to fit it.

 

WHooa! before you skrawk! the end of the cam where the seal should run, with a hard sharp self tapper.
A small hole should be drilled on the side of seal and a small (hard) self tapper should be screwed into that.
On the other hand if you haven't got a drill or self tapper, a small hook can be made,
poked through the soft seal lip twisted a 1/4 and the seal can be pulled out the points seal is never very tight.

 

Hello all, I'm just reviving this thread in the hope that someone can help with finding the Pioneer-Weston seal that is meant to be the best.

The original dimensions of seal 70-4568 are 1" x 9/16" x 3/16"

I can only find a pioneer-weston seal with a width of 1/4" instead of 3/16" on the eriks website (the official place for Pioneer seals in the UK):
https://sealshop.eriks.co.uk/t/ProductRotaryElastomerSeals

Clarks seals are the only place so far that I managed to find that have a 1"x9/16"x3/16" in their catalogue (see page 21 : http://www.clarkseals.com/pdf/shaft-seal-catalog.pdf). But they are in the US and I can't find a UK importer.

I'm losing oil pressure again at lower revs on my 650 and all the symptoms are the same as 1 year/2000mls ago so I want to get the best seals I can find before I take the timing cover of. I will also be rebuilding another engine this year so I want to stock up on these seals.

Regards,

Niels

 

I'm losing oil pressure again at lower revs on my 650

That doesn't sound like a seal blown inside out.

If the seal hasn't blown inside out, it's ok.

What hot oil pressure do you see, at what rpm, with what oil?

 

http://www.rockerbox.co.uk/home.htm

I don't know but you could ask these guys

 

Thanks for the replies.

The symptoms are the same as before (last year). It's all fine when the engine is cold but after a 10mile ride the oil light comes on when I slow down to 1000-1500rpm. On my last ride the light started to come on at 1500-2000rpm. I use valvoline vr1 20W50 oil and I have a screw on oil filter in the return line. It's 1967 TR6C engine in a 1972 frame. I am not sure how much of the engine is 1967. The head is definitely early 70s.

Last time I had a torn seal, not an inside out seal. The engine itself has always held pressure really well. Even a week ago it would take 3 to 4 seconds for the oil light to come on after I stalled the engine (when hot). Last year I fitted a new oil light switch and checked the pressure relieve valve (all ok). I am not saying it is the seal this time but I want to get the best seals possible. I can't remember where I bought the ones I fitted last year but they looked identical to ones that came out. I have also bought a T140 engine that I will be rebuilding this year and I want to use the best parts that I can find. I keep reading that the Pioneer Weston seals are the ones to get but I can't find a part number. It also seams that hardly anyone makes 1x9/16x3/16" seals.

Dave M, I have emailed Rockerbox tonight to see which seals they offer.

 

Tri-supply will only sell the best seals.Not sure what make but they do not fail.The bearings may be a little worn although,i have never had any wear on a crank if the oil is changed often.I would suggest putting some new oil in with a measured quantity of STP.Not the whole container of STP so read the instructions.This might raise the hot pressure.Personally,i would think it is sufficient oil pressure although its not nice to see the light come on.
If you do the cover seal,when the cover is off,check the oil pump and fit a new gasket behind it.

 

I don't know what the response to an email at Rockerbox will have?

It's a bit …old skool over there. Payment by card is easier on an island offshore from N. Korea. I always just ring them. Be aware that they have lunch hours on Tuesdays and Saturdays, closed Wednesdays