Thanks, Jason! Wish I could like your post more than once.

 

This is so not unexpected . In a perfect world all after-market devices hawked to increase power would have to post Dyno proven effects. Of course poorly engineered exhaust mods are by far the most ubiquitous power-robbing devices folks throw their money away on.

 

I don't think anyone buys a BoosterPlug for better dyno runs or quarter mile times. They do buy it for improved rideability, especially at lower RPMs, and smoother starts, and it does well at that. My understanding is that the BoosterPlug is in effect only during "non stable" states, ie acceleration and deceleration. A dyno run is non-stable, so your results make sense. I have a BoosterPlug on my T120, and it has made a huge rideability improvement. But if I was seeking performance improvement, I'd take it off and install a Power Commander or some other programmable ECU (along with all the other intake and exhaust mods that are typically done).

 

As part of the install, the directive is to perform the 12 minute tune before riding. When you unplugged the device, did you do so or just threw it on the dyno with the adaptations that were learned with it installed?

I sent an email to boosterplug with a link to this thread, inviting them to join the discussion. Since ya know, they're the ones that designed this thing and know the most about it and how it works.

 

As part of the install, the directive is to perform the 12 minute tune before riding. When you unplugged the device, did you do so or just threw it on the dyno with the adaptations that were learned with it installed?

The 12 minute tune is unrelated to dyno tests. It's an adaptation process used to calibrate the idle stepper on cabled bikes and throttle tube stepper on the fly-by-wires, and it only applies to closed throttle operation.
In the official Triumph Diagnostics software I just click a button and it happens instantly.

 

Update: They responded really fast! Unfortunately due to forum rules they aren't allowed to post here or it would be considered "advertising", but I had a nice discussion with someone at boosterplug who read the initial post. It's too bad they can't post here, they had some very interesting things to say

 

Nah, they can post information. AJ Cycles, BellaCorse and others post regularly. If a post was solely advertising a sale or something a moderator might take it down. And product posts that aren't motorcycle-related are usually taken down. But BoosterPlug can certainly defend their product here.

And of course @MotoChooch, you could always tell us what they said. Anything worth repeating?

 

I don't get why anyone would use the booster plug, when the could simply use TuneECU and flash a proper map or tune the bike. There are enough people that have tuned the bike with the most popular mods, and that are willing to share their maps.

Just making the entire map richer, isn't what most motors want... When I installed the Tec cam and x-pipe and desnorkeled my Street Cup, you would think that the bike would run lean, right? Well it was crazy lean up top, running an AFR of around 15. Not good. So if I put in a booster plug, that would richen it up, right?

Well, we also found that I was running an AFR around 11 down low... Using the booster plug to richen the top end, would have me fouling plugs or stalling down low.

If you do the mods, get the $10 TuneECU app and a $30 bluetooth connector and just out the right map in there... If you can't afford dyno time to tune it properly, then leave it stock, IMHO...

 

Yeah, I wouldn't imagine that them answering some questions about their product directly would pose any sort of issues. Its quite common on most forums...

 

I will relay the message.

 

Thanks for your effort to gather objective evidence and posting it here. For many years I've heard report saying the same but this is the 1st objective measurement I've seen.

Paul

 

What year was the Thruxton?

 

And for the record, I don't think anyone is bashing their product. if it works for you, great.

I just don't personally agree with the method used... to just fool the ECU into richening up the entire map... It's rare that an entire map is equally lean, and just adding 8% fuel or whatever across the board will magically fix it... It is more likely to help one part of the rev range, but make worse another part...

 

This is a very detailed explanation as to how it works: Detailed explanation on the BoosterPlug

 

@MotoChooch, the information on that page applies to how an ambient air temperature sensor is used by the ECU, and is completely generic to any modern bike.
The only BP specific part is the last bit where it explains how they use a non-linear temp dependent resistor to simulate air being 20° cooler at all ambient temperatures.
So is that what's best for every bike? Ignoring the fact that you don't want it richer in most places, your bike's ECU will choose the fuelling based on ambient air temp and has already been set up to use a non-linear scale at each temperature. What makes you think on a 30° it will run better thinking it's 10°, and on a 5° morning it will run better thinking it's -15°?
All of this is a complete guess, attempting to override the values chosen through hundreds of thousands of dollars of research by the designers. There's no emissions issue here, as it's not idle or cruise, so there can be no claim that it's "to bypass emission restrictions", meaning the modern argument for these is essentially saying "The manufacturers all got it wrong, so our resistor makes everything as it should be"

I've attached a photo of a device that does the same thing on carby bikes. Simply insert this high quality 100% stainless steel device below the choke pull, and the finely tuned 1.22mm "spacer" will ensure your bike runs better by increasing the fuel by 3.6% at all times.
These can be purchased from my eBay site for $49.95 (free shipping within Australia, $18.95 to rest of world)

 

Epic, on point and funny at the same time. I like it.

I hate to bash their product, but its a poor solution to a problem... Like you said, it's like having the choke pulled out 5%, all the time. Might help at 7000rpm where it is lean, but at 4000rpm at 60% throttle where it was already rich, now it might be too rich.

The irony is that the Booster, costs more than a Bluetooth connector and the TuneECU app, that would allow you to tune the bike properly...

 

It's still just taking the entire map, and dumping a little extra fuel into it. That might help the areas that happen to be lean, but any areas that are already rich, will just get richer.

When for a princely sum of $45, you can get TuneECU and an BT ODB port and do it properly, not to mention clear codes, raise rev limits, play with ignition advance, disable O2 sensors and SAI, etc...

 

I have that already actually, and the DealerTool, but I have no desire to load any user made maps on my bike. How do I know they know what they're doing or weren't high as a kite when they made the changes they did? Besides, I think the 2020 Speed Twin is locked down pretty tight. Biggest reason to get the boosterplug is because they have tuned it to meet Euro4 which as I understand it is what causes the snatchy throttle response at low rpm.

 

I dunno... I made my map on a dyno with a tuner I have used for 12 years, who has tuned like 20 of my bikes, has tuned a lot of AMA/Moto America rider's bikes, wrenched for an Isle of Mann team, a Macau GP team, etc... You can always use TuneECU to compare the maps to see exactly what was changed, and determine if those are the types of changes that your bike needs.

Ultimately, I feel like if you make significant changes to the bike, get it tuned. Next best option is to find someone with your mods and a custom tune, and use that... After that, maybe the Booster Plug...

 

You, jsobell are, of course, completely right! But dont ever expect to convince a fan-boy or to get an admission of over-hype from an after-market huckster. You've done your bit to enlighten us. Your duty is done and I proncouce you free to return to your regular work. Thanks BTW!

 

I think @MotoChooch is right to question things. It's not nice to find you've been misled into buying something that doesn't really do what the manufacturer stated, so I don't criticise him at all for posting perfectly valid questions. My "keyboard warrior" reference is with regards to BP's comments, not his, as they seem to be implying that the information is deceptive or wrong.
I posted this article as an informative independent finding to let other people judge whether they should buy one, and yes, now I go back to my regular work

 

Apologies for misunderstanding the resistor you posted. Incorrectly assumed a static resistor was linked. My fault.

So now the next question. Long term effects of having one of these on a bike? We talking increased carbon buildup? Changing plugs more often? Or is it something more dangerous?

If it's a drop of what 1 to 2 up maybe for smoother running great, I'd be willing to sacrifice that. But what else is actually going to be impacted negatively?



Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

So now the next question. Long term effects of having one of these on a bike? We talking increased carbon buildup? Changing plugs more often? Or is it something more dangerous?

Not much really. Cruise and idle will still be 14.7:1, so just fuel consumption, a bit of carbon build-up over time, but not anything dangerous. If you prefer having it fitted, you can safely leave it on.

 

not to change the discussion BUT i was under the assumption that TUNE ECU did NOT work on newer bikes, my 2018 T120 included.

 

Tune ECU Tuning for water-cooled Bikes

edit http://www.dnktuneworks.com

www.triumphrat.net

 

When I did my intake mod, x-pipe, gutted and rebaffled mufflers and TEC cam, here was my AFR with the stock fuel map... Booster Plug might have made the top end slightly richer, but not rich enough... but the area down low that already had an AFR of 11, would have been even richer and likely fouling plugs and building up carbon.

That's not a "solution"... If your bike isn't running right, especially a modded bike, get it tuned and call it a day.

After some tuning...

 

I'm thinking your TEC Cam made tuning absolutely necessary. Beyond everything else that is.

 

Probably, although TEC claims that they didn't have to tune the bike for the mods that I did... YMMV...

 

Aren't modern bikes and cars, outboard motors these days designed to run lean etc, well I have had no problems with my Thruxton S after the Meerkat and open pipes, it has never had a snappy throttle down low revs, in fact it runs smooth from low revs to the limit, it runs smooth around town, on the highways, at top speed, the ECU addaps to all the changes within the first ride.
Of course anyone selling things for these bikes are always going to come out claiming things that surpose to help our bike preform better, so if you think it help all good, myself my bike been running great ever since I brought it new just on 2 years ago now just with the Meerkat and opened stock pipes and I am happy with just doing this, its fast enough for me and performs great at all revs, maybe because the Thruxton's have the lighter crank, who knows, why add these things when they really don't need it, maybe some people just over think things, I been riding British bikes for over 43 years, have hot rodded a few in my time and done heaps of performance tunes in that time and this Thruxton is so far the best for smooth running without doing much to it.
I don't ***** foot my bikes I ride them hard all the time, I am always pushing them to their limits, its the way I ride, keep the maintenance up and change my oils regularly and so far am happy the way things are on my Thruxton.

Ashley

 

Aren't modern bikes and cars, outboard motors these days designed to run lean etc, well I have had no problems with my Thruxton S after the Meerkat and open pipes, it has never had a snappy throttle down low revs, in fact it runs smooth from low revs to the limit, it runs smooth around town, on the highways, at top speed, the ECU addaps to all the changes within the first ride.
Of course anyone selling things for these bikes are always going to come out claiming things that surpose to help our bike preform better, so if you think it help all good, myself my bike been running great ever since I brought it new just on 2 years ago now just with the Meerkat and opened stock pipes and I am happy with just doing this, its fast enough for me and performs great at all revs, maybe because the Thruxton's have the lighter crank, who knows, why add these things when they really don't need it, maybe some people just over think things, I been riding British bikes for over 43 years, have hot rodded a few in my time and done heaps of performance tunes in that time and this Thruxton is so far the best for smooth running without doing much to it.
I don't * foot my bikes I ride them hard all the time, I am always pushing them to their limits, its the way I ride, keep the maintenance up and change my oils regularly and so far am happy the way things are on my Thruxton.

Ashley

Your bike isn't adapting after the first ride. It only adapts if the AFR is within the pretty narrow range of the lambda sensors, and even then, only in the closed loop section of the fuel maps... I am betting that if you tossed your bike onto a dyno and sniffed the exhaust, it would show your fueling to be off a bit...

 

I keep reading about the so called snappy throttle and that the benefit of the booster plug is to smooth that out. None of my 4 ride-by-wire Triumphs have this “snappy throttle problem” so am wondering whether the “problem” is in the bike. I can get my bikes, perhaps more so on the Thruxton than the others, to be a bit jerky if I don’t excercise proper throttle control but it is simple to avoid and overall I love the quick responsiveness of these hi torque engines. It seems to me that this so called smoothing out is in fact only making the bikes sluggish ie more forgiving. BP therefore perhaps has a place for some riders.

 

I was a motor cop for a long time. Most of my training and day-to-day riding involved low speed maneuvers. I learned to be very precise with the throttle and the clutch. My T120 has a “snappy throttle problem.” The Booster Plug resolved about 80% of that problem and my bike’s mpg hasn’t changed. [Insert shrugging guy here]

 

I was referring to when I put the xpipe and open mufflers on it adapted to the change on the first ride and not really interested in putting it on a dyno it runs pretty good to me and doesn't miss a beat.
As for sniffing the exhaust I leave that to my Blue Cattle dog she has a habit of attacking my exhaust when I fire it up she puts her mouth right over the end of the muffler she might be getting off lol.

Ashley

 

My point was, you assume it adapted, but you don't really know. That's what the dyno would show you. Best to KNOW that it is running right, then to find out down the line when you burn up an exhaust valve from it running too lean or something... My OCD won't allow me to just assume it's running right. I need to see it.

 

Not everyone has OCD. How do you know Tune ECU is accurate? How have you checked that?

 

My 2017 T120 had a very snatchy throttle response when I bought it April 2019,
also when rolling off the throttle it would act as though the throttle had been given a little blip at around the 2500 rpm mark, which led to a few scary low speed corner moments and had me wondering if i'd made a mistake buying this bike,
After a bit of online research i learned my snatchy/unpredictable throttle response wasn't uncommon,
various solutions were suggested - running in rain mode, turning off the traction control, fitting an X pipe,
none of those fixed my bikes problem, also read about guys that had bought an expensive PCV and that hadn't solved the issues on their bike and had only made a minor improvement to general performance,
at this point tune ecu was not available for the T120 but the Booster Plug was,
I'd heard mixed reviews on the Booster Plug but thought i'd give it a try ,
Well the Booster Plug made a huge improvement to the low speed running on my bike, with no detectable drop in performance or fuel economy, it 90% fixed my bikes issues,
Since fitting the plug i've removed the airbox snorkle and fitted a cat free 2 into 1 exhaust , the bike runs very well,
May still look into the Tune ECU if it can fix the remaining 10% of snatchyness and improve general performance , but for now i've got a bike i can live with whereas pre Booster Plug it was a real pain in the a** to ride slowly