The plot thickens... I may not have noticed it when the bike was outside in the bright sunlight, but now that it's in the garage I also see that the alarm/immobilizer light *remains lit* when the key is on. When the key is off, the light blinks as usual.

I have tried both keys and the issue is the same with both of them.

Could this be the cause of the starting problem? If so, is there anything that can be done to fix/reset it short of trailering it to the dealer?

 

I'd check battery terminals are tight and voltage is good first but otherwise does sound like an immobiliser problem as that disables the fuel pump and starter I believe.

 

Terminals are rock solid and voltage is 12.68 at the battery. Assuming it is the immobilizer, is there anything I can do to get it running?

Man, what a disappointment...

 

Don't know this will help, but try removing the negative battery cable for a few minutes, then reconnect and try to start the bike. Might act like a system reset. The check engine light should go out after 3 heat cycles, ride, shut off, repeat. And never use the kill switch to turn off the bike. It messes up the ECU, and is for emergencies only.

 

Thanks for the suggestions! Yeah, I tried resetting the system by unplugging the battery. Didn't work at first, then it did, then it stopped working again.

The immobilizer light behavior is really strange. Every once in a great while, the light will go out and the bike will start. Then, if I shut the bike off and turn it back on right away, the immobilizer light will stay lit, but the bike will still start a few times. Finally, the light stays on and the pump and ignition stop working completely for some indeterminate time.

I'm trying to figure out if I could have done something to cause the issue, but the only thing I added was a GPS unit since getting the bike. I have it wired to the license plate light with the negative wire tied directly to the negative battery terminal. Could that possibly cause a problem? I just don't want the dealer to try and lay this at my feet because I installed a GPS if it's not possible that is the problem.

And I saw that about the kill switch, so I will definitely stop doing that immediately.

 

If you have an android smart phone, get a blue tooth OBD2 adapter (about $10) and download the tune ecu app. You can find out what the check engine code is.

 

I'm just taking an uninformed guess here, but is it possible that the key transmits a signal that is recognized by the immobilizer but it's too weak (low battery, distance) to be recognized? Try your spare key, or use your primary key in the ignition and move the second key around the bike to see if it's a signal strength issue. I have no idea if this idea is sound but I'm too lazy to research how the immobilizer works.

 

Do you have more then one key for the bike on the same ring?

 

On cars there's a chip embedded in the key fob and a pickup round the ignition switch. I would guess its the same. However it's well documented that some radio transmissions will trigger the immobiliser and stop vehicles starting. Happens in motrway services inthe UK. The pickup may well be getting interference from the GPS when it's on but if its not then just the wiring is unlikely to be the culprit IMHO. Sounds like a dodgy immobiliser tbh.

 

Try removing the wiring for the gps. If that was the only change before all the trouble, process of elimination says remove it first. BMW had a bunch of problems back in 2009 with immobilizer antennas being defective, same symptoms you report. As I recall it is difficult to remove the immobilizer on this bike by design, otherwise I'd suggest doing that. Not sure but if this bike runs with can-bus, the GPS could be upsetting the apple cart enough to trigger the alarm.

 

An update: This morning I went out and tried the bike again. To my shock and surprise, I turned the key and heard the familiar whirring of the fuel pump priming and NO IMMOBILIZER LIGHT. Pushed the starter and she started right up. Turned it off and tried again. Same thing. Perfect.

I have since started her up a dozen times over the past two hours and haven't had the issue again. GPS still installed and either key works fine. I have literally changed NOTHING.

While I'm thrilled that it is (so far) working again, I am left with very little confidence that it won't happen again in the future. Only the next time I am sure to be in some remote backwoods town in the Adirondacks with night falling and no cell service...

Anyway, I'm not sure where to go from here. I will obviously keep an eye on it, but I would still love for the dealer to figure out a way to FIX it if there is, in fact, a problem. Does anyone know if the immobilizer will throw error codes?

I do have a Cen-Tech OBD2 reader that I have used on my cars. Can that be used to read the codes on the STR? If not, I will order a BT OBD2 adapter today in the hopes that I can at least see what error codes are in the ECU.

Otherwise, thanks for the continued suggestions and support.

 

I think all the points have been covered already about the immobilizer. Only keep one key on the ring and near the bike at a time.

FYI- the ECU also has a shutdown process. When you turn off the bike the ECU can take a while to go to sleep. So quick on off on off can cause issues... waiting is probably what helped it finally start.

Universal OBD2 readers will only give you emissions related codes. If you want to know anything more you need triumph specific software(I have ECU Tune).

 

Only one key ever on or near the bike at a time. I tried my OBD2 scanner, but it couldn't communicate with the bike. So, I've ordered a BT scan tool and downloaded TuneECU. The scanner should be here Tuesday, so I'll scan it then and report back.

Oh, and while it starts now, the check engine light is still on.

Damn gremlins...

 

Only one key ever on or near the bike at a time.

I've been riding with two keys lately. So did the person who owned the bike before me.

What's the reasoning for not having two keys near the bike at one time?

 

I don't know too much about powertrain control module software, but I know that on Ford cars fault codes are only cleared after 3 successful starts. Maybe the control module had trouble dealing with multiple faults and just needed some successful trips to clear everything. If it's working fine now, then it might continue to work fine with no more kill switch signals.

I am curious to hear what happens when you plug in the scan tool. I need to get one myself, so I can flush the ABS module. Cheers.

 

I'm hoping the very same thing. Check engine light is now off and I've had ZERO trouble starting her up for the past two days. OBD2 adapter will be here tomorrow and I'll report back then.

Regardless, she's stayin' alive for now and I'm loving her again! :happay

 

Okay, I just scanned the error codes in the ECU and they are:

P0460 - Fuel level sensor circuit malfunction

P1650 - Lost communication with RCU (or immobiliser malfunction)

So, I'm guessing that the first error was related to the check engine light and the second error was tied to the starting issue.

I don't know if using the kill switch caused either of these problems, but I have had no further trouble since exclusively using the ignition switch to turn the bike off.

Coincidence? Maybe. Probably. But I'm still not using the kill switch except in an emergency.

 

I suspect the first one might just be a false code from the control module getting confused. The first time I checked codes on a car, there were several that didn't make sense and one that did. I fixed the one and the rest magically went away forever.

I think you're good to go now.

BTW, my ST3 manual says the following on page 66:

"The engine should normally be stopped by turning the ignition switch to OFF position. The engine stop switch is for emergency use only. Do not leave the ignition switched on with the engine stopped. Electrical damage may result."

So, probably a good idea to use the engine stop switch only in an emergency. Cheers.

 

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand...the nightmare continues. Last week, the bike began exhibiting the same immobilizer behavior as before. First, sporadically and now more regularly. Eventually it starts, but sometimes only after hours of sitting. I have not used the kill switch *at all,* so the likelyhood of the issue being related to that is dwindling rapidly if not dead altogether.

I have seen a number of instances of late-model Triumph bikes exhibiting the same problem the same way, so I'm hoping it will be dealt with by the dealer and Triumph professionally and completely the first time. Unfortunately, I am not confident that this will be the case.

It's a terrible feeling to walk up to a bright, shiny, brand-new $10,000 bike and wonder every time if it will start or leave me stranded. Again.

Here are a couple other poor souls who have had to endure the same problem:

http://www.triumphrat.net/tiger-800...et/tiger-800-800xc-mods-and-workshop/379681-tiger-800-immobiliser-problems.html

http://www.tiger800.co.uk/index.php?topic=5239.0

http://www.triumphrat.net/maintenance-and-workshop-talk/201678-immobilizer-fault-please-help.html

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z_GTi8acYpo

I hope this helps someone else who may be going crazy trying to figure out what's happening. It's absurd that there should be so many issues presenting the same way and the Triumph people claim to have no idea what's going on. I have to haul the bike the three hours it takes to get to the dealer on Friday. I will report back when I get more information.

Dammit, dammit, dammit, dammit, dammit, dammit, dammit...

 

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand...the nightmare continues. Last week, the bike began exhibiting the same immobilizer behavior as before. First, sporadically and now more regularly. Eventually it starts, but sometimes only after hours of sitting. I have not used the kill switch at all, so the likelyhood of the issue being related to that is dwindling rapidly if not dead altogether. I have seen a number of instances of late-model Triumph bikes exhibiting the same problem the same way, so I'm hoping it will be dealt with by the dealer and Triumph professionally and completely the first time. Unfortunately, I am not confident that this will be the case. It's a terrible feeling to walk up to a bright, shiny, brand-new $10,000 bike and wonder every time if it will start or leave me stranded. Again. Here are a couple other poor souls who have had to endure the same problem: Tiger 800 immobiliser problems Immobiliser won't allow bike to start - Electrical, Lighting, and Wiring - Triumph Tiger 800 Forum Immobilizer Fault, Please Help

I hope this helps someone else who may be going crazy trying to figure out what's happening. It's absurd that there should be so many issues presenting the same way and the Triumph people claim to have no idea what's going on. I have to haul the bike the three hours it takes to get to the dealer on Friday. I will report back when I get more information. Dammit, dammit, dammit, dammit, dammit, dammit, dammit...

I am having the same issue you are with the bike not starting did you ever find a solution

 

Probably don't need to ask, bur have you checked all the connectors associated with the alarm? How about your battery terminals? Tried wiggling the wire loom coming out of the ignition? Is there a way to remove the alarm completely? Never had your issue, but don't have the factory alarm either and I seem to remember you do. All the 13+ bikes have an immobilizer built in, but not the alarm. This also may sound crazy, but is it possible you have a short or broken plate in the battery?

 

An update: the dealer has had my bike for a few days and I finally heard from them yesterday. The diagnosis is that the "disabler is completely shot." Triumph is sending a replacement (a nearly $1,000 part), but it won't arrive for a few days. SO FRUSTRATING.

They have no idea what caused the problem which makes me nervous that it could happen again if they haven't addressed the root cause. Time will tell, I suppose. I'll update again when I get the bike back.

 

Did you ever get this sorted? My bike, a 2014 R is doing the exact same thing. My CEL light went out after a couple rides, but I have the random "lights are on but nobody's home" no start issue. Odd when this happens my headlight comes on, which I'm not sure if it did before unless the bike actually started. Funny you mentioned tapping the license plate light, I just added new rear signals. Thought maybe I ran the battery down while I was testing, so I just stuck it on the battery tender, it reached full charge in less than 10 minutes. I'm baffled, I really didn't muck around with much wiring for the turn signals, just used stock plugs on new signals and plugged them in. Super odd?

Dan

 

Did you ever get this sorted? My bike, a 2014 R is doing the exact same thing.

Yes, the disabler was replaced and the problem has not come up again since (over 2500 miles).

 

I have a 2016 bonneville t120 and it is doing the same thing!

 

I must have missed page 66 in my manual because I've been using my kill switch to turn off the engine since I got mine last month. This problem with the alarm has happened a few times, but nothing that a turn of the key to off then on again didn't fix. The more you know.

 

If your immobilizer is a datatool there has been a recall on these that Datatool hasn't made widely known. I had similar symptoms and took it back to the dealership who looked it up, and yep, my unit was due for recall.

 

immobilizer issue

I have a 2013 Street triple r. I am currently facing this immobilizer indicator problem. In all the topics online, users have ended replacing it under warranty. As mime is not warranty I am worried how much they might charge. Anyone had similar problem out of warranty? If so, did triumph cover the parts or you paid for it? I heard the parts are costly for this problem.

 

Contact Triumph America and ask them directly. They have a customer service warranty department.

 

Thanks for the info. Called them, told me to take my motorcycle to a nearest dealer. No other help. Need to call them after dealer looks into the issue.

 

Well that's a good start. That means they aren't flat out saying they won't warranty it.

 

Looking to take the bike to my nearest dealer today. Let's see what they would say after looking at the error codes. Fingers crossed.