[OOBE]

This happened to my TT600, but I didn't have a clue about it. After smelling smoke for months, eventually the wires caught fire under the gas tank. You can imagine the big scare I went through when the engine died one day, I saw the smoke, and I saw the little bonfire under the tank. I got off the bike and warned everyone in the vicinity (I was lucky I pulled over at the beach) to GTFO of the area because the bike was gonna blow. They ran QUICK, boy. Yeah, I just stood far away waiting for my baby to blow to pieces. Thank God the fire somehow died (it waw huge). A guy offered his toolbox, and I took off the gas tank and the fairings after letting it cool off for 10 minutes and to be safe. The stator wires were molten, so I'm sure it started there. The regulator wires were molten also. Makes sense. I was having problems months before with my battery dying, fuses being blown and the bike just leaving me stranded after the battery died. The injector harnesses where molten also. Pretty much 50% of the harness was toast. Don't ask me how I managed to cut and put everything back to how it was. No wires were recognizable. I believe in miracles. Anyway, after quick-fixing it, I went home and started rebuilding the harness. I noticed how smooth and strong the engine ran afterwards. It makes a big difference.

 

[mykidsdad]

You have an integrated automotive style alternator on your bike.

I also have a '98 T595 that has always been a bit reluctant to start even with a fully charged battery. If the battery is allowed to discharge at all it's time to break out the walking shoes as none of the starting tricks seem to work.

A few days ago my old battery tender malfunctioned and boiled my year old YUASA KCYTX14-BS battery dry, so once again I'm in the market for a new battery. No local shops here to help so I'm looking at mail order. I found a YUASA (now marketed as Motocross brand?)YTX14H-BS, the high performance version of the YTX14-BS that's supposed to have 260 cranking amps compared to the standard 200.
While searching for threads on high perf. batteries I ran across this one and naturally I'm very interested in this modification to improve the charging system.

I'll be the first to admit that I'm not much of a wrencher, but I'm reasonably smart and am pretty good at following directions. Just ask my wife and daughter! In the post quoted above, DEcosse wrote that the T595 has an integrated automotive type alternator. What does that tell me about my set up compared to the later model 955s insofar as this mod is concerned? Can it still be done on the earlier T595s? If so, any specifics on the mod would be greatly appreciated as I'm close to developing a permanent case of monkey butt from riding my CRF to work every day.

 

[DEcosse]

It doesn't apply that type of alternator, mykidsdad
- however one weak link on those generation bikes is the infamous 'ground block' (Brits call it 'Earth Block')
That is a termination plug where all of the grounds come together in one connector. The early ones were really poor and frequently failed. There was a recall on thos but even the initial intermediate 'fix' was not ideal

The original ones were white & supposed to be recalled; later ones are blue. It should be located by your battery box - it will be either blue or white with a bundle (20 or so) of black wires coming from it. It usually has some foam around it that will typically have melted into the plug.
Check condition of that block & the wires & make sure it all looks OK
You can see pics in this album that show the problem and location of the block. Part number for the replacement for the block & harness is T2505055.
One quick way to tell is the -ve terminal should have TWO black wires on it and one of those wires should connect into that ground block. If only one on the battery (& doesn't connect into the block), recall probably not done. Bikes that were affected by the 'bad' ground block should fall within vin range 60540 - 72706 (last 6 numbers)
You can check with your Triumph dealer to see if it was done by giving them your vin number - they should do that for you at no charge if it wasn't already done.

Take a look at yours & see what it looks like - replacing that may just improve your situation immensely.

 

[mykidsdad]

Thanks for the quick reply DEcosse.

I'll take a look tonight when I get home to be sure, but right now I don't recall seeing more than one black lead wire on the negative battery terminal. Maybe this will be the magic cure for the discharging/starting woes. Otherwise she's a beautiful bike and lots of fun to ride when the weather turns cooler like it is now. :thumbsup:

 

[wone]

i have a 2004 955i and it burnt up two rectifiers. can this be from drawing to much amps.and does any one know how many amps is suppose to ,come ,out of the stator.

 

[mykidsdad]

Took a look this weekend and I have only one black wire on the neg. battery terminal and the ground block housing is white. Looks like I'll be making a trip to the dealer for the recall replacement harness.

Thanks DEcosse.

I absolutely love the way this bike runs and sounds when it's in top form.

 

[DEcosse]

Excellent mykidsdad - I am convinced your bike will run sooo much better - & charge better too!
Ask them to supply it under the recall!

 

[Xian]

I just did this mod on my 06 955i. I bought this bike used and it has a power commander 3 installed. My rectifier/regulator was mounted on the left side, not the right as all the pictures show. Is this something that triumph changed in 06? Anybody else with an 06 have the r/r on the left(clutch) side?

Maybe it is something the previous owner did when installing the pc3? It started raining so I didn't get to finish installing the fuse block, maybe tomorrow.

 

[zam70]

The newer Daytonas had the RR on the left

 

[HiDesert]

14.7V! Hooray!

Mine is on the left, and slightly different from anything else described here, so I'll go ahead and show what I did. The connectors aren't on the rectifier, as you can see:

Here's the original connector, more toward the front of the subframe:

These are the parts I made:

Nothing but 12 gauge wire, no longer than they have to be.

 

[HiDesert]

Here are the new connections:

The red go where the brown wires used to be, and the black go where the (surprise!) black wires used to be. The wires have just enough slack to make them easy to install (I'd like to claim that was excellent planning, but it was mostly luck):

Then, just in case those desert downpours get unusually severe, I improvised some waterproofing with some gallon freezer bag plastic and electrical tape:

I'm hoping nothing will get warm enough to melt my waterproofing.

Viola! 14.7V when charging, regardless of engine speed! zam70, DEcosse, you guys rock!

Now to find a good hunk of copper and make a heat sink for the R/R.

 

[DEcosse]

.... Now to find a good hunk of copper and make a heat sink for the R/R.

If you plan to keep the OEM - at least until it gives up the ghost - the added heatsink will certainly help towards extending its longevity
I guess you wanted to keep your OEM R/R stock, but just getting rid of that connector plug altogether would not be a bad idea - then you can just heat-shrink your joints & nix the placcy bag!

 

[DEcosse]

Some great innovative methods for addressing the wiring for this mod.

Just wanted to give everyone a heads-up on a fantastic source for connectors - in fact you can get the specific one to match the OEM Triumph R/R plug if you wish to leave that intact.

This is the match for the 4-pin connector for output of the OEM Triumph R/R - http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/250_Connectors/250_connectors.html - scroll down to the Yazaki 4PF250K-B - $3.95 (plus shipping for matched pair incl new terminal pins (which you can solder or crimp)

(Incidentally the one immediately above that in the page is the set used for the stator side of things)

Alternatively (if you are not averse to removing the original connector plug from the R/R) I would actually recommend this sealed waterproof connector - http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/Sealed/Other/other.html - the very first one on that page, the Packard Dephi Metripack.

Also consider from same manufacturer this fuse-holder - http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Fuseholders/fuseholders.html

Incidentally the guy who has that site is awesome - great customer service - even though he's in Japan (Canadian ex-pat), you'll have these parts in your hands in a week with extremely modest shipping charges.
For example, for the Delphi connector and fuse holder you'd be out the princely sum of $14.30 incl shipping!

.

 

[zestymac]

Time to do this mod on Speedie....Thanks all

 

[malott442]

Just did her to my bike.....

I was having hard starts and fueling issues, thought my PCIIIUSB was to blame. Nahhh


I did this mod, and actually had to remap my bike to the old map, and hard starts are of the past.

Bike will start up at 13.7. Over the course of 40 seconds will ramp to 14.0. One twist of the throttle over 2800 rpms jumps the volts to 14.45. Then idle will stay around 14.4. It runs SOOOOOOO much better.

Somehow a wire must have got fried or something. My bike voltage usually was a tad low, but just never dealt with it. After fueling problems pissed me off enough, i ran voltage check. 13.7 at idle, 13.2 over 3k. Yes, my bike somehow ran on that low of voltage.

WOW

 

[DEcosse]

.... i ran voltage check. 13.7 at idle, 13.2 over 3k. Yes, my bike somehow ran on that low of voltage.

WOW

Why would it not run with those voltages? (which are quite typical for an unmodded wiring)
Don't get me wrong, I'm a big advocate for doing this mod to improve the efficiency, but don't misplace its value.
You could disconnect your R/R altogether and bike would continue to run normally - at least until the battery discharges significantly below 12V. Race bikes often run on total loss system - just the battery with no charging system at all and the battery is likely to be much less than your minimum 13.2V.

Just keeping it 'real'.

 

[zam70]

Very True

 

[malott442]

Why would it not run with those voltages? (which are quite typical for an unmodded wiring)
Don't get me wrong, I'm a big advocate for doing this mod to improve the efficiency, but don't misplace its value.
You could disconnect your R/R altogether and bike would continue to run normally - at least until the battery discharges significantly below 12V. Race bikes often run on total loss system - just the battery with no charging system at all and the battery is likely to be much less than your minimum 13.2V.

Just keeping it 'real'.

After fixing the wiring, and then restoring my old map, the bike runs cooler, smoother, stronger... MUCH stronger. My bike ran like crap at those voltages, to the point to where I had to lean out my map to make it quit stuttering and fouling plugs every 2 oil changes. Plus the hesitation to start is gone.

Why do race bikes run total loss systems? For the extra few ponies? I never knew that.........

 

[BombFactory]

After fixing the wiring, and then restoring my old map, the bike runs cooler, smoother, stronger... MUCH stronger. My bike ran like crap at those voltages, to the point to where I had to lean out my map to make it quit stuttering and fouling plugs every 2 oil changes. Plus the hesitation to start is gone.

Why do race bikes run total loss systems? For the extra few ponies? I never knew that.........

I don't see how a charging system running at a min. of 13.2 volts (which is enough for the coils to charge properly and ignite fuel) would create any sort of engine problems (sputtering, surging stalling, what have you), nor would it make an engine run hotter than usual. I think your issues were probably fuel map or CO related and unrelated to the charging system.

Some racebikes don't use a charging system to eliminate the drag on the crankshaft from the stator (both weight-wise and charging drag), thus allowing for faster engine revving creating more horsepower.

 

[mushman]

Pretty sure my bike has the integrated automotive style alternator with the regulator and rectifier built into it. That said, is this still something I can and should attempt? With my set-up, it doesn't seem as cut and dry as those with external components.