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Nope and nope... I've got 7500 miles on my R, live the USA and have NEVER put any fuel in this bike other that Regular. The lowest octane available and it has 10% ethanol. Why? Because that's what the Owner's Handbook calls for and there's dozens of threads on this forum and hundreds of threads on other motoring forums that have done this argument. The science on this topic says if you're putting higher grade gas in your engine than is required, the money's going out the exhaust.

There are hundreds, maybe thousands of water-cooled Thruxtons here in the states, and next to none are having this problem - This thread was started before the one-and-only ECU tune update was released in August 2016 which solved the problem.

If anyone is currently having this stalling issue which some owners had when the bikes first came out - there's something wrong with their particular bike and they need to have their dealer to remedy it.

It is not happening to the entire ownership. If putting higher octane gas in your bike makes this problem go away, then there's something wrong with your bike - it should, and almost all of them do... run great on Regular.
 
Yep, I've heard the "click" more than once. Downshifting towards a stop, but I cant rmember any other common cause and effect. Happens when I need to get back on the throttle quickly. SO far, it hasnt been more than a slight annoyance. I'm usually in RIDE mode.
This has been over one year's time, in all kinds of temperatures ranging from 35 to 80 F.

Weedie
 
After experiencing and hearing I was not the only one with issues I decided to make a thread to keep a cleaner history on these issues.

ISSUE
While stopped, in gear, clutch lever pulled in, blip throttle, loud audible "CLICK" before revs ramp up.

Thinking its a ecu map adaptation issue, but please discuss for documentation sake.
I have this same issue. I just bought the bike last week (it is a leftover 2016) so have not yet had the 500 mile service. Is this going to hurt the bike / should let the service manager at my shop know sooner than later? Or should I wait for the 500 mile service? Thanks
 
Discussion starter · #85 ·
I have this same issue. I just bought the bike last week (it is a leftover 2016) so have not yet had the 500 mile service. Is this going to hurt the bike / should let the service manager at my shop know sooner than later? Or should I wait for the 500 mile service? Thanks
The clicking is typical drive by wire, its just the way it is now, you have to be smoother with your throttle blipping. The idle is issues get resolved with the maps. I still have erratic idle after flogging the bike and then coming to a stop. Even after 8000 kms or whatever I have on it now.
Sure, bring it up to him, I recorded it with my phone, then duplicated it when I got there, the clicking was "normal" I even got it to stall on camera. Has not stalled since the last ECU update.
 
Discussion starter · #86 ·
Just to keep this going, I am dropping my bike off for the second time this year with continuing idle issues, this time it stalled and I have it on video. The idle will not hold after booting around, turning off, restarting etc.
I rode around for an hour straight, shut if down for 15 mins, restarted drove for 10 mins, shut it down for 5, drove for 30 min, shut it down for 20, drove across the street to get gas, restarted and idle fluttered all between 500-1100 rpm gets close to dying then I revved it and it just died. Had a hard time getting it to idle after that until I just started it and drove away, I was an hour from home.
So, still annoyed. 2 years, same issue.
6 weeks ago I had it in for 3 hours while I hung out and they checked everything the computer could see and more and could not find any issue....
 
My '16 Thruxton R has been at the dealer for almost a month now with the stalling and idle issue. The bike will also start missing, like it is being fuel starved, while just doing a normal cruise at highway speeds. It became a safety issue to me after almost being rear ended at a stop light when the bike stalled and they guy behind me was looking for traffic to his left while still moving. I get updates from the dealer every 2 or 3 days but they are all starting to sound the same where they can't figure out what's going on.
 
The bike will also start missing, like it is being fuel starved, while just doing a normal cruise at highway speeds
Hello, for what it's worth, I had the dealer apply grease to the back of the rear brake pads under warranty for break squeal... When they put the rear wheel back on, they did so in a way that it shaved a touch of the rear ABS sensor off... By the time I was home from the dear & the next morning, it ran just like you are describing... Starved for fuel, and bucking every once in a while. I'm not sure I could even hit 40mph... All that was just due to the sensor. They replaced it, and bike runs perfect again... I'm not saying that it's what's wrong with yours too, but it sounds very similar. Have either of your front or rear tires been off before? If so, it might be something to check then... Seems like it is an easy issue to avoid as long as the tech isn't rushed and/or knows to be mindful of the ABS sensors when doing wheels maintenance. Best of luck. Cheers.
 
Discussion starter · #89 ·
Nah, I don't have any riding issues with fueling, just hot engine idle issues.
I did get fed up with the front brakes being soft and then grabbing at half a pull last month and took it in. They flushed the entire system and put in better fluid and it still pretty much acts the same. I have the lever adjusted to full out so I get a longer pull before engaging and it lever literally hits my knuckle sometimes on a good pull... I'm living with it so far, it's enough to get it documented for the future. A mechanic at the shop has an r and he is getting his master replaced under warranty, so I can see a master in my future.
 
@Adamantium, the brakes don't have to be that mushy, and I suspect it's often because we have a loop next to the top lever that traps air in a 'bubble'. Even flushing bikes doesn't tend to clear that area, so I tend to pull the cable down when bleeding to make sure the bubbles can go all the way up to the lever.
Also, as a tip (for all bikes), when you park up your bike at home use a cable-tie or a velcro strap to pull the brake lever hard against the bars. This causes any air bubbles to compress so they are tiny and they tend to travel up to the top of the brake-line. Then, when you bleed them at the lever, you can get all the air out.
Another thing this does is to push the caliper pistons further through the rubber seals, as they are designed to grip the pistons and pull them back of the disks when you release the brakes. When the pistons get tarnished they tend to stay in, and with 1mm gap between them and the discs that's a lot of slack to take up when you pull the lever. On some of my bikes I've regularly had to remove the calipers and clean the pistons to get decent firm brakes.
 
I did get fed up with the front brakes being soft and then grabbing at half a pull last month and took it in. They flushed the entire system and put in better fluid and it still pretty much acts the same.
Assume they did the bleeding on the diagnostic laptop. Otherwise it's impossible to bleed the ABS block. ;) Lots reported mushy on the first pull before this bleed was done correctly according to the service manual.
 
Discussion starter · #92 · (Edited)
@jsobell
i actually did that when i got the bike home from dealer flush. I tiewrapped the handle then flushed the master the day after quickly, it did improve a bit...yes, done hooked up to the laptop
Anyone ever notice a air "poof" everytime you pull the front brake? It comes from the right side cover every time I pull the lever. I thought this would be an air leak near the ABS module, just another mystery, but if it is air, would probably point to my brake issue.
 
The dealer called me yesterday and they are now getting Triumph involved with my issue since they can't figure it out. This Friday will be a month that the bike has been at the dealership and while it was nice that the service manager expressed his dismay that I'm missing out on some of the best riding weather Colorado has to offer, all it did was get me angrier that this bike ever made to the dealer's showroom. I've purchased 9 new Triumphs since 2011. Some didn't last too long in my garage but none of them had a single issue while I owned them. I guess I've been lucky but my luck has now run out.
 
The dealer called me yesterday and they are now getting Triumph involved with my issue since they can't figure it out. This Friday will be a month that the bike has been at the dealership and while it was nice that the service manager expressed his dismay that I'm missing out on some of the best riding weather Colorado has to offer, all it did was get me angrier that this bike ever made to the dealer's showroom. I've purchased 9 new Triumphs since 2011. Some didn't last too long in my garage but none of them had a single issue while I owned them. I guess I've been lucky but my luck has now run out.
I think Triumph and the dealer should have you on a loaner long before this point. Have you asked them?
 
I haven't asked them thinking that they were going to find the problem and the bike would be ready to go. Now that they've called in the big guns it's probably time to ask.
A month is the Lemon Law threshold in many states. How about CO? You have options.
 
A month is the Lemon Law threshold in many states. How about CO? You have options.
I just looked it up and you're right. "When a new vehicle has been purchased with a manufacturer's warranty and it has a defect that substantially impairs its use and market value within one year of purchase and that defect is not repaired after a “reasonable number of attempts,” the consumer may have recourse under Colorado's Lemon Law". Under the law, a “reasonable number of attempts” to repair a defect applies when the same defect remains after it has been subject to repair four (4) or more times within the first year after the date of original delivery. It also applies when the vehicle is out of service for repairs for a cumulative total of thirty (30) or more business days during the warranty term or one year after original delivery, whichever comes first.

Thank you.
 
@jsobell
i actually did that when i got the bike home from dealer flush. I tiewrapped the handle then flushed the master the day after quickly, it did improve a bit...yes, done hooked up to the laptop
Anyone ever notice a air "poof" everytime you pull the front brake? It comes from the right side cover every time I pull the lever. I thought this would be an air leak near the ABS module, just another mystery, but if it is air, would probably point to my brake issue.
I am surprised that cycling the ABS module didn't fix this issue.

I asked Peter Stevens Triumph to do this on the first service but my R came back with the same front brake issue.

I bought a Dealertool and fixed it myself.

And yes I have heard that sound from the RHS when I pull the front brake.
 
Discussion starter · #99 ·
I am surprised that cycling the ABS module didn't fix this issue.

I asked Peter Stevens Triumph to do this on the first service but my R came back with the same front brake issue.

I bought a Dealertool and fixed it myself.

And yes I have heard that sound from the RHS when I pull the front brake.
I too have Dealertool but have not tried it out as of yet, I will add that to my ever growing list of things to do in the winter along with the cb350 head gasket.
Also, I don't know the current debate about which octane gasoline to add on fill ups, but was told anything below 91 was a bad idea, not because of the octane level, but because of the ethanol playing games with sensors that can give fueling issues.
 
I too have Dealertool but have not tried it out as of yet, I will add that to my ever growing list of things to do in the winter along with the cb350 head gasket.
Also, I don't know the current debate about which octane gasoline to add on fill ups, but was told anything below 91 was a bad idea, not because of the octane level, but because of the ethanol playing games with sensors that can give fueling issues.
The octane issue has been beaten to death and back.

FWIW I don't use ethanol in any of my cars/bikes and I see no issue with 98 RON (in Oz) in these Triumph engines but 95 if you want.

The extra $$'s may be of concern to some?
 
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