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Gracias por la información, me alegro de que lo tengas hecho.

Cuando investigué sobre la pieza del código que ponía en el otro post me pareció ver que era la misma para todos o casi todos los modelados.

También quería probar lo último que proponían de copiar las tablas ETV en todas las marchas, pero como tengo pagada la pieza en el concesionario a la espera de que llegue no haré nada más por el momento.
 
HOW THE RESTRICTION WORKS ON A ≥2017 STR 660 LAMS BIKE

Alright guys, for those of you interested in learning about how the fly by wire 660 works, I've spent a little bit of time fooling around in TuneECU and figured out the differences between the Aussie LAMS 660 and it's unrestricted brother, the 70 kW UK 660.
So, this is going to be a rather long post (1 beer to read, I'm guessing 3 to fully digest) but I'm going to try and explain the differences in an easy way to understand so you can use this information to make changes if that's what you desire. Before we dive into the nitty gritty, you need to be aware that making any changes to your bike will invalidate its LAMS status and is potentially illegal. So please think about the consequences in an incident and your appetite for risk before proceeding. This post does not contain any information on the legal process of de-restricting your bike and it is your responsibility to seek relevant engineering approval. Without doing so could potentially leave you uninsured and unlicensed.
I should also add, that making any changes using the information below will result in a large increase in power. Please be careful.

Please note, this guide was written primarily for the Aussie 660. The UK A2 model from a mapping perspective looks exactly the same. So a similar process would be used to that below.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
FLY BY WIRE - HOW IT WORKS - THE RESTRICTION
Fly by wire is the name given to the electronic system which controls power output from rider input via the throttle sensor. The ECU is constantly reading the throttle sensor position, applying logic to what it reads and then opening your throttle body using a servo motor to respond to your demands.
Before fly by wire existed, a wire rope from your throttle tube would mechanically pull the throttle body lever to open it and if you had bought a LAMS bike back then, Triumph would install a bracket which would prevent you from opening the throttle body the whole way.
Now, on the fly by wire LAMS bikes, this same throttle body restriction exists but is applied electronically. Triumph do this through a table which calculates what the throttle body position should be by comparing the current RPM of the engine and the requested power from you through the throttle sensor.

It's time to scroll down and look at Picture 1, this is the stock 'Electronic Throttle Valve' data table on a 2020 660 STR. Look at the far right column (this is what your throttle body position is when you are at wide open throttle). What you should notice, is that at 350 RPM (the bottom cell) the throttle body is 100% open. As your RPM increase (moving up that far right column), the throttle body remains fully open until 6500 RPM. At that point, your throttle body abruptly starts closing, even though you are still applying full throttle, to reduce the engine power, hovering around 40% open all the way to redline.

Scroll down to Picture 2. It's the ETV table from the UK de-restricted 2020 STR 660. Can you spot the difference?

Still confused? I've thrown a chart together which is only looking at the part of the table which corresponds to you requesting 100% power from the motorbike. The orange line is a normal non LAMS bike (the UK model in fact), the blue is an Aussie 660. Notice how the throttle body closes as the revs increase to limit the power of the engine? On a de-restricted bike, the throttle body position matches what you request (100% demand always equals 100% output) Scroll down and have a look.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
HOW TO CHANGE THE ETV TABLES

So if you've made it this far, you may be thinking, why can't I just copy the UK 660 unrestricted ETV table into the Aussie 660 restricted map and reflash my ECU? that's certainly possible, the below is how you would achieve that (please re-read the warning at the top!).
You'll need the following;
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tuneecu...
- A battery tender for your bike
Once you have these, you'll need to download the stock mapfile for your bike and modify it in TuneECU on your phone. Download it from here:
https://app.box.com/s/pusg6v7nyd/folder/56805524
For the 2017 - 2019, you need to apply your edits to map file 30111. For 2020 bikes, your base map to edit is 31035.
Just copy the whole ETV1 table from an unrestricted UK 660 (map file 30119 or 31037) and paste it into the ETV1 table for you base mapfile (mentioned above). ETV1 is 'road' mode, ETV2 is used when you are riding in 'rain' mode. Leave ETV2 alone if you want to keep your rain mode as a LAMS switch. Using TuneECU to copy paste tables can be frustrating. You'll need to open TuneECU, swipe over to the left, open the map file, swipe down until you reach ETV1, select the menu option 'Table', then press copy. Then, Open up your base map, navigate to ETV1 and then press table again and paste. Save the modified map file to your phone once you are done. Be sure to only paste into your ETV1 table. This is the hardest part of the process.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now you are ready to flash!
There's already a few written guides out there for flashing using TuneECU. I'll post a link to the process in the comments. If you've followed the above, everything is generic from here on out. You will need to select the ECU type as Triumph (Keihin) when you first try to connect. If you still find it a little daunting, I'm planning on making a video on how to flash the ECU over bluetooth with TuneECU shortly.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
FAQ (I'll add to this as needed):
How do I make this change legally for road use? I'm not sure. This guide is written for those of you who intend to conduct off-road track riding or racing using a LAMS 660 and would like to increase the power output. Investigating the legalities and insurance requirements for road use is your responsibility.
Is this safe for the engine? Yes, how do I know? The Australian 660 has exactly the same ignition and fueling tables as the unrestricted UK 660. I would encourage you to open the maps and compare them yourselves as a learning experience. The restricted 660 is tuned exactly the same as the unrestricted 660 UK model, it's simply the ETV tables that differ.
How much will the power increase? Using Triumph numbers from the unrestricted 660 as a comparison, an Australian pre 2020 model 660 will go from 47 Hp to 94 Hp. The 2020 660 will go from 54 Hp to 94 Hp.
Can this be undone? Yes, simply reflash the unaltered stock map to the bike
Why can't I just flash my bike with the UK unrestricted map? They are region locked, you cannot flash this map directly. You have to edit the ETV tables in the Aussie map
What if I flash the wrong map? You can't, TuneECU won't let you write an incompatible map to your bike
Can I 'brick' my ECU? It is possible the write to your ECU will fail and leave your bike unable to start (this is what people often call bricking, but it's not 'actually' bricking). This generally happens if your battery voltage has dipped too low during the flash (hence the requirement for a battery charger while flashing). There is a recovery process that works (I've had to use it!) but that's outside the scope of this guide. I'll make a video on recoveries soon. I still consider this low risk and having a spare android device available will be handy (when it happened to me, my phone was causing problems during the write process). I do not think actual bricking, where the ECU can no longer be recovered, is a risk worth worrying about.
Can you do this for me? No. I'm more than happy to share what I've learnt, but I'm not interested in potentially breaking any laws for you.
Is this detectable? Yes, but not how you may think. The simple details of the loaded map that are visible to a dealer or anyone with TuneECU will indicate it is no different to the stock restricted map. This is because the actual changes to the stock map loaded in the ECU can't be read from the ECU by anyone (dealer included). The easiest way to think of it is a one way function. You can write to but you cannot read from the ECU. So how is it detectable? Running the bike on a dyno would give it away instantly!
I flashed my bike and now it's not idling very well when I first start it, what do I do? You'll need to do an adaptions reset. It's basically a process which tells the ECU to reset a few parameters that it constantly adjusts to make your bike idle and run nicely. Your bike needs to be cold. Do the following steps in order, without touching the throttle at all during the whole sequence. Start your bike and leave it idling until you hear the cooling fan kick in. After the fan turns on, start a 12 minute timer. Once the 12 minutes are up (go 30 seconds over just to be sure) turn your bike completely off. Adaptations have now been reset.
Can I buy you a beer? **** yes you can. I drink anything you can shine a torch through. It will have to be in Adelaide
🙂


Got any other questions? Reply in the comments.
Take it easy, and have fun!
View attachment 738477
View attachment 738478
View attachment 738479
[/QUOTE
HOW THE RESTRICTION WORKS ON A ≥2017 STR 660 LAMS BIKE

Alright guys, for those of you interested in learning about how the fly by wire 660 works, I've spent a little bit of time fooling around in TuneECU and figured out the differences between the Aussie LAMS 660 and it's unrestricted brother, the 70 kW UK 660.
So, this is going to be a rather long post (1 beer to read, I'm guessing 3 to fully digest) but I'm going to try and explain the differences in an easy way to understand so you can use this information to make changes if that's what you desire. Before we dive into the nitty gritty, you need to be aware that making any changes to your bike will invalidate its LAMS status and is potentially illegal. So please think about the consequences in an incident and your appetite for risk before proceeding. This post does not contain any information on the legal process of de-restricting your bike and it is your responsibility to seek relevant engineering approval. Without doing so could potentially leave you uninsured and unlicensed.
I should also add, that making any changes using the information below will result in a large increase in power. Please be careful.

Please note, this guide was written primarily for the Aussie 660. The UK A2 model from a mapping perspective looks exactly the same. So a similar process would be used to that below.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
FLY BY WIRE - HOW IT WORKS - THE RESTRICTION
Fly by wire is the name given to the electronic system which controls power output from rider input via the throttle sensor. The ECU is constantly reading the throttle sensor position, applying logic to what it reads and then opening your throttle body using a servo motor to respond to your demands.
Before fly by wire existed, a wire rope from your throttle tube would mechanically pull the throttle body lever to open it and if you had bought a LAMS bike back then, Triumph would install a bracket which would prevent you from opening the throttle body the whole way.
Now, on the fly by wire LAMS bikes, this same throttle body restriction exists but is applied electronically. Triumph do this through a table which calculates what the throttle body position should be by comparing the current RPM of the engine and the requested power from you through the throttle sensor.

It's time to scroll down and look at Picture 1, this is the stock 'Electronic Throttle Valve' data table on a 2020 660 STR. Look at the far right column (this is what your throttle body position is when you are at wide open throttle). What you should notice, is that at 350 RPM (the bottom cell) the throttle body is 100% open. As your RPM increase (moving up that far right column), the throttle body remains fully open until 6500 RPM. At that point, your throttle body abruptly starts closing, even though you are still applying full throttle, to reduce the engine power, hovering around 40% open all the way to redline.

Scroll down to Picture 2. It's the ETV table from the UK de-restricted 2020 STR 660. Can you spot the difference?

Still confused? I've thrown a chart together which is only looking at the part of the table which corresponds to you requesting 100% power from the motorbike. The orange line is a normal non LAMS bike (the UK model in fact), the blue is an Aussie 660. Notice how the throttle body closes as the revs increase to limit the power of the engine? On a de-restricted bike, the throttle body position matches what you request (100% demand always equals 100% output) Scroll down and have a look.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
HOW TO CHANGE THE ETV TABLES

So if you've made it this far, you may be thinking, why can't I just copy the UK 660 unrestricted ETV table into the Aussie 660 restricted map and reflash my ECU? that's certainly possible, the below is how you would achieve that (please re-read the warning at the top!).
You'll need the following;
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.tuneecu...
- A battery tender for your bike
Once you have these, you'll need to download the stock mapfile for your bike and modify it in TuneECU on your phone. Download it from here:
https://app.box.com/s/pusg6v7nyd/folder/56805524
For the 2017 - 2019, you need to apply your edits to map file 30111. For 2020 bikes, your base map to edit is 31035.
Just copy the whole ETV1 table from an unrestricted UK 660 (map file 30119 or 31037) and paste it into the ETV1 table for you base mapfile (mentioned above). ETV1 is 'road' mode, ETV2 is used when you are riding in 'rain' mode. Leave ETV2 alone if you want to keep your rain mode as a LAMS switch. Using TuneECU to copy paste tables can be frustrating. You'll need to open TuneECU, swipe over to the left, open the map file, swipe down until you reach ETV1, select the menu option 'Table', then press copy. Then, Open up your base map, navigate to ETV1 and then press table again and paste. Save the modified map file to your phone once you are done. Be sure to only paste into your ETV1 table. This is the hardest part of the process.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now you are ready to flash!
There's already a few written guides out there for flashing using TuneECU. I'll post a link to the process in the comments. If you've followed the above, everything is generic from here on out. You will need to select the ECU type as Triumph (Keihin) when you first try to connect. If you still find it a little daunting, I'm planning on making a video on how to flash the ECU over bluetooth with TuneECU shortly.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
FAQ (I'll add to this as needed):
How do I make this change legally for road use? I'm not sure. This guide is written for those of you who intend to conduct off-road track riding or racing using a LAMS 660 and would like to increase the power output. Investigating the legalities and insurance requirements for road use is your responsibility.
Is this safe for the engine? Yes, how do I know? The Australian 660 has exactly the same ignition and fueling tables as the unrestricted UK 660. I would encourage you to open the maps and compare them yourselves as a learning experience. The restricted 660 is tuned exactly the same as the unrestricted 660 UK model, it's simply the ETV tables that differ.
How much will the power increase? Using Triumph numbers from the unrestricted 660 as a comparison, an Australian pre 2020 model 660 will go from 47 Hp to 94 Hp. The 2020 660 will go from 54 Hp to 94 Hp.
Can this be undone? Yes, simply reflash the unaltered stock map to the bike
Why can't I just flash my bike with the UK unrestricted map? They are region locked, you cannot flash this map directly. You have to edit the ETV tables in the Aussie map
What if I flash the wrong map? You can't, TuneECU won't let you write an incompatible map to your bike
Can I 'brick' my ECU? It is possible the write to your ECU will fail and leave your bike unable to start (this is what people often call bricking, but it's not 'actually' bricking). This generally happens if your battery voltage has dipped too low during the flash (hence the requirement for a battery charger while flashing). There is a recovery process that works (I've had to use it!) but that's outside the scope of this guide. I'll make a video on recoveries soon. I still consider this low risk and having a spare android device available will be handy (when it happened to me, my phone was causing problems during the write process). I do not think actual bricking, where the ECU can no longer be recovered, is a risk worth worrying about.
Can you do this for me? No. I'm more than happy to share what I've learnt, but I'm not interested in potentially breaking any laws for you.
Is this detectable? Yes, but not how you may think. The simple details of the loaded map that are visible to a dealer or anyone with TuneECU will indicate it is no different to the stock restricted map. This is because the actual changes to the stock map loaded in the ECU can't be read from the ECU by anyone (dealer included). The easiest way to think of it is a one way function. You can write to but you cannot read from the ECU. So how is it detectable? Running the bike on a dyno would give it away instantly!
I flashed my bike and now it's not idling very well when I first start it, what do I do? You'll need to do an adaptions reset. It's basically a process which tells the ECU to reset a few parameters that it constantly adjusts to make your bike idle and run nicely. Your bike needs to be cold. Do the following steps in order, without touching the throttle at all during the whole sequence. Start your bike and leave it idling until you hear the cooling fan kick in. After the fan turns on, start a 12 minute timer. Once the 12 minutes are up (go 30 seconds over just to be sure) turn your bike completely off. Adaptations have now been reset.
Can I buy you a beer? **** yes you can. I drink anything you can shine a torch through. It will have to be in Adelaide
🙂


Got any other questions? Reply in the comments.
Take it easy, and have fun!
View attachment 738477
View attachment 738478
View attachment 738479


Hey mate I tried to download the map files but got an error message saying unavailable?
 
Discussion starter · #44 ·
Hi Guys,
Am not on these forums often. I've updated the guide to include the details around pasting into all of the ETV(1) tables. This step wasn't necessary until an update to the TuneECU app. If you've flashed your bike but not noticed any power increase this is why.
 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
There is a datalog function in Tuneecu but i've never used it, you could just rev the bike while stationary and see if the throttle goes to 100% in Tuneecu.
I know its a new bike but the difference between 40% and 100% must be noticeable.
Are you riding in the mode you modified the ETV table, if you only changed one mode then switch rider modes and see if there is a big difference.
Testing it while stationary will not work as if you've only pasted the map into ETV1(N) then the bike will not be restricted while stationary or with the clutch in but will still be restricted while moving. You would have to ride it to test.
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
Do not order this part. It is not required to de-restrict your motorcycle, hence the guide. If you do buy it, you need to have a dealer flash the official UK 660 de-restricted map. This may not be possible depending on what country your bike was sold in.
 
Hello dear friends, I recently became the owner of a wonderful Street Triple 675. I am completely satisfied with both traction and acceleration, except for one issue. There is a limitation of 10,000 rpm. I later found out, this limitation is placed on all motorcycles released on the Japanese market. These motorcycles also have a limit of 85 horsepower. I looked through many forums and could not find information where you can remove these restrictions and what is needed for this. Maybe someone here will tell you what
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
Hello dear friends, I recently became the owner of a wonderful Street Triple 675. I am completely satisfied with both traction and acceleration, except for one issue. There is a limitation of 10,000 rpm. I later found out, this limitation is placed on all motorcycles released on the Japanese market. These motorcycles also have a limit of 85 horsepower. I looked through many forums and could not find information where you can remove these restrictions and what is needed for this. Maybe someone here will tell you what
I had a quick look at the difference in the maps between a 2013+ 675 Japanese bike and a 'standard' worldwide map. There are fairly significant fueling & ignition changes that seem to suggest there is a physical difference in the actual engine, whether that be compression or cam profiles etc. What is interesting though is that the standard map actually has fueling and ignition tables for all the way up to 13,000 RPM and TuneECU will allow you to increase the limit to that point. You could change the RPM limit and reflash the ecu, then have it verified on a dyno with Air/Fuel ratio readings to prove it is safe if you wanted to.
 
I had a quick look at the difference in the maps between a 2013+ 675 Japanese bike and a 'standard' worldwide map. There are fairly significant fueling & ignition changes that seem to suggest there is a physical difference in the actual engine, whether that be compression or cam profiles etc. What is interesting though is that the standard map actually has fueling and ignition tables for all the way up to 13,000 RPM and TuneECU will allow you to increase the limit to that point. You could change the RPM limit and reflash the ecu, then have it verified on a dyno with Air/Fuel ratio readings to prove it is safe if you wanted to.
found information that on some versions the exhaust system and the inlet pipe that goes under the tank are different
here is the link to the info
now I'm thinking of looking at my motorcycle, all of a sudden, the Japanese versions also have differences in these details
 
Looking at the charts - would I be correct that ETV-2 is the road, ETV-1 is the rain mapping ? Cheers
The OP says ETV-1 is Road, ETV-2 is Rain, which is the same as my TTR, they are not necessarily in the same order they appear on the dash, not sure which bike you're referring to though, its usually pretty obvious from the ETV curves which is Rain, Road and Sport.
 
The OP says ETV-1 is Road, ETV-2 is Rain, which is the same as my TTR, they are not necessarily in the same order they appear on the dash, not sure which bike you're referring to though, its usually pretty obvious from the ETV curves which is Rain, Road and Sport.
Hi, Question for anyone including the OP there are only 4 ETV curves on the trident map compared to the 660 lams 6 ETV curves plus the neutral.

Why are 5 and 6 missing on trident map?
 
Hi, Question for anyone including the OP there are only 4 ETV curves on the trident map compared to the 660 lams 6 ETV curves plus the neutral.

Why are 5 and 6 missing on trident map?
some bikes don't have ETV maps for each individual gear, one may be for 3rd & 4th or 5th & 6th, it should say on the map.
Or maybe the Tuneecu programmer hasn't included them, prior to an App update last year there was only one ETV map that covered all the gears on the Thruxton.
 
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Is there a video i can watch that'll explain this better? Have an obdl link and tuneecu on my phone and understand pretty well what ive gotta do. just a bit skeptical about doing it and gettin something wrong 😅
No video directly related that I found, but found this useful waffles on a bit but worth the watch talks about the tables towards the end.


I left the ETV2 rain mode map alone so switchable back to LAMS from full power. Just did my triumph trident using same process. Im not clever enough to mess around with the individual cells in the tables just copied and pasted someone else's excellent work as instructed. 👍

Its a shame you can't read the current map on the bike only transfer or change then upload. Would be good to see if what you changed worked but you will know if it did when you take it for a ride after 😉🏍👍

But my recommendation

753689


The power increase is amazing for less than $50 and 30 mins.

Also don't forget to do the "12 minute tune" after and only when bike is cool. Took mine out before doing it and was a wild ride around the block. You might not have to do it but I did 😆

753690




Last thing make sure you have battery tender connected to keep volts above 12 volts that's a sure way to brick ecu if it drops below. If you don't have a battery tender maybe connect jumper cables from car battery to bike to make sure voltage doesn't drop.

Good luck mate.
 
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