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odie,
if you're lookin for "smooth" then a gold wing or victory vision
is a better choice.
If you want heritage with distinctive styling and ubber HP and Torque, then you made the right choice for sure.
But smooth it ain't.;)
 
odie,
You Gotta come north of Tulsa and ride my Rocket NOW.
It ain't even the same bike as before.
It's real hard to keep the front tire on the ground,
and if you manage that,
you're probably burning that car tire off the back end..:eek:
I have unleashed the beast within..
 
Ok, so I have to ask (especially as I just ordered a cat bypass), why do you need an additional gasket?

Also, working on the premise that you do, can you tell me the part number / description so that I know what to ask for at the Dealers?

Cheers, John.
 
They're in the stock mufflers. The plumbing underneath is a highly restrictive maze with stepped down ID's inside, but no cats. Highly recommend replacing the crossover if you are after additional power.
Good luck.
 
Thanks Frank!

Where do I get the non restrictive crossover?
I got the Staintune crossover (freeflowing). I use them dwith the TOR's. If I could have done it again, I would have gotten their whole setup with the pipes to reduce weight.
If you change this out, you need to watch your A/F. I had a good dyno tune using Tuneboy (tuneedit) with an A/F setting of 13.1. After the crossover was added, it went to 16.7. Had to add more fuel due to lean condition and picked up an additional 7 RWHP.
There are no cats in the existing crossover on the Roadster, but there are reducers taking the pipes down to 1 1/4 inch. Really sad design. Not only do they go from1 1/2 to 1 1/4, the ends of the pipes are rolled over even smaller. Look at the reducers in the right photo.
I have triple filters, no BC on my bike. With just the new crossover, there might be a Triumph tune to handle it.
Good luck.
Staintunes out of Australia.
 

Attachments

The Staintune is stainless steel. Still expensive, though. The ones for the standard R3 (1 into 3) are mild steel and cheaper.
JR, did you pay 305 for the Roadster crossover are did you get the one for the standard Rocket3? Great price if it's for the Roadster (header into 2) I think you can get a new R3 std for under $400.00
 
Hi Frank, the std R3 - the Phoenix Stealership wanted $400+.. I could get it for less from Tucson, but then still had to ship - $380... so $305 incl shipping worked for me! :cool:
 
You know, just looking at the pic again of the crossover I bought, it could be fabricated out to carbon steel and sold for less than $300.00 easily. I bet if a quanity was run, you could have them for under $175,00. I'm surprised that nobody else is building them out of 1 1/2" carbon tubing.
Any pipebenders out here?
 
I've got a piece of stainless motorcycle exhaust pipe that is 21" long and has a 1 7/8" I.D. would that work if I can get my exhaust man to weld it up for me?
 
I gotta agree that the flow would be better with by pass pipes, but if we are only talking about a couple of Horsepower difference, then I think I will save my money for other stuff. If I cant feel the difference or see it on a time slip then what difference does it really make?
I plan to drag race my bike in stock form and then change little things at a time and see if they make more power. Maybe I will start with getting rid of the catalyst, and do some tuning, and then maybe K&N filters, Exhaust, Performance tune. etc. I wont spend to much on it though as I already have a car that will kick my bikes butt and I would rather just make it faster. Maybe this is not really the right thread for this. I think I will try to find out what these bikes will really run with an average rider on an average day............Who should I ask about that?
Check with Warp9.9 on the r3owners.com sight. He's got the fastest RIII that I know about,although it is blown & producing over 250 hp.
 
Umm, you do realize that despite the "Rocket" name, it's not really jet propelled? What happens inside the exhaust system (apart from maybe a freak explosion or something) has no effect on the smoothness of the ride.

Back pressure affects affects horsepower and the tune needed to achieve it without damage to valves. But if smoothness of ride and its corollary, smoothness of power delivery, are your primary criteria, then don't mess with the exhaust system as designed and certified, and don't mess with the secondaries. These are things which impact the bike's ridability in its intended environment, the street and highway. If you plan to race, then that's a whole other ball game.
Diego, touché man, you have just put into words what's been rattling around inside my head. I like the sound of the TOR with cat by-pass but don't like the distraction of the popping and banging on decal and slow riding around town. The other side effect that I'm experiencing is rough engine running down low. I'm in the process of reinstalling standard exhaust and will have the bike tuned back to factory and will see if that appeals more to my rider and pillion enjoyment. Having said that I'm still toying with the idea of standard pipes on cat bypass and retune :confused:
 
Got bored on the weekend and removed my TOR pipes and cat bypass pipe. Replaced with original factory pipes and cat converter. Bike is running sweet at all speeds and I'm enjoying the quiet ride. My conclusion, the bike probably was not tuned for the TOR and bypass. I'll have the tune checked but the way it's riding I think it's ok the way it is. :cool:
 
Popping and banging on decel.You need to let more air into the engine Ramair or Pods whatever and then tune correctly. No use having one without the other. You will only get a proper tune from a good bike tech with his own dyno.
 
Oh and if you go down this path have the bike tuned with secondaries fully open or just remove them as most do. Your almost there all you now need is finnish the job
R3T . Ramair. Cat Bypass. TORs. Dynotuned. From 98 stock to137hp with max fuel ecconomy set at 110-120kmh cruising speed.
 
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