According to the Liqui Moly website, the first option is mineral based, not full synthetic.

Motorbike 4T SAE 10W-40

High quality mineral-based motor oil for ideal behavior and engine protection in all operating conditions. Provides reliable lubrication, optimum noise suppression and low wear together with perfect clutch function and smooth shifting.

www.liqui-moly.com

The second option is full synthetic.

Motorbike 4T SAE 10W-40 Street

Fully synthetic high-performance motor oil provides optimum performance and engine protection in all operating conditions. Ensures outstanding engine cleanliness, excellent friction behavior and minimum wear together with perfect clutch operation, and smooth gear shifting.

www.liqui-moly.com

It looks like, from your research, that the Triumph recommended oil Castrol, is the cheapest.

 

According to the Liqui Moly website, the first option is mineral based, not full synthetic.

Motorbike 4T SAE 10W-40

High quality mineral-based motor oil for ideal behavior and engine protection in all operating conditions. Provides reliable lubrication, optimum noise suppression and low wear together with perfect clutch function and smooth shifting.

www.liqui-moly.com

The second option is full synthetic.

Motorbike 4T SAE 10W-40 Street

Fully synthetic high-performance motor oil provides optimum performance and engine protection in all operating conditions. Ensures outstanding engine cleanliness, excellent friction behavior and minimum wear together with perfect clutch operation, and smooth gear shifting.

www.liqui-moly.com

It looks like, from your research, that the Triumph recommended oil Castrol, is the cheapest.

The first one I linked to is the second one you linked to — Street. The first you linked to was not on my list - “motorbike”. The third I listed is Street Race, also full synthetic.

Edit: I saw the word “motorbike” did get included in the street Race line, removed that. Maybe that was the mixup?

 

Castrol power 1 is semi-synthetic, the full synthetic is Power 1 Racing or now called Ultimate.

 

@ jtho

That Castrol 4T is available in 10W50 weight if you live in a hotter climate.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MISF5...4/?coliid=I1EZCG99MJ8PW2&colid=RPVY1T2R5SVP&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

 

Castrol 1 is full synthetic.

Castrol Power 1 - Full Synthetic Motorcycle Engine Oil | Castrol® USA

Castrol Power 1 offers superior engine protection and performance with variations like 10W40, 10W50, and 5W40, enhancing your bike’s power and efficiency for every ride.

www.castrol.com

Edit: it looks like Castrol may have dropped the "4t" and now just has Power1 and Power1 V-Twin as full synthetic. The synthetic blend is Castrol Actevo.

 

Castrol 1 is full synthetic.

Not in the UK, but appreciate this post was about oil options in the USA, didn't realise they had such confusing regional differences and branding.

Looking at the prices, the Motul 7100 especially as its my go to, we're being ripped off as usual in the UK.

 

• Maxima ProPlus+ 10W-40 4T 3.785L (1 gallon) @ $47.39 / $12.52/L

 

Who is Maxima? There were several other brands available on Amazon that claim to be full synth, MA2, SN, and references/reviews indicating some of the, weren’t actually listed on the JASO or SAE sites…so I’m opting to skip unknowns (or unknowns-to-me at least).

Separately, as a techie, the inconsistency in their Amazon listings (in the “Maxima” brand/store) are red flags for me…”Pro Plus+ 10W-40” listing shows 1L 1/2/3/4 packs, 1 gal., 2 gal., 4L, and 5 gal. packs, yet all show images of 1L bottles of 20W-50. Even if the 1 gal. containers are actually 1 gal. and not 4L, and I buy the 3 gal. pack, it ends up about $10.50/qt, not as good as the Liqui Moly Street (today…) And last, who names their product “pro plus plus”?

 

Hey, I’ve recently done some light searching for oil options. Nothing new here beyond focusing on JASO MA2 and API SN certifications. This sent me down a brief rabbit hole to learn what the API cert was and what other certifications exceed it (since Triumph specs state “meet or exceed SN” and I was seeing SL, Sn, SN+, and SP). I didn’t see any that didn’t also include MA2, but I think I did see an MA3 mentioned somewhere but I didn’t dive into that one.

After that, I ended up adding the oils/brands that I would personally consider to an Amazon wish list so get a price comparison for reference next time I need to buy oil.

The list currently includes the following, including today’s price and what it works out to per liter or quart.

• Liqui Moly 4T 10W-40 Street 4-Liter @ $39.77 / $9.94/L
• Liqui Moly Motorbike 4T 10W-50 Street Race 4L @ $53.36 / $13.34/L
• Motul 7100 4T 10W-40 4L @ $53.99 / $13.49/L
• Motul 104121 300V Factory Line 4T 10W-40 - 4L @ $70.64 / $17.66/L
• Castrol Power1 4T 10W-40 - 6qt @ $64.99 / $10.83/qt
• Mobil 1 98JA11 10W-40 Racing 4T 6qt @ $71.99 / $11.99/qt

All are full synthetic, all are MA2 and SN or SP, and I’m very confused why I have seen barely any mention at all of that first Liqui Moly Street option at its price. Undervalued for what may be the same product as the Street Race, but I’ve got no idea/data on the differences. For the fans, Rotella doesn’t list on the bottle both SN and JASO MA2, but no 10W-40 or 10W-50 product, so I didn’t consider it.

The new bottles have SN back on it as well as JASO MA/MA2 - FWIW. Rotella T6 is like franks redhot. I put that **** in everything. (and yeah 5w40 or 15w40 only)

 

I'll stick with Mobile1 10-40 4T full synthetic.

 

My Bonneville has had Rotella T6 since new, and she got about 36k miles and runs like new, Oil changes are already too expensive without paying $13.99/qt.

 

Oil changes are fairly inexpensive compared to a motor rebuild, I'll pay a few bucks extra and change it at 2500 miles.

 

I'm with Mr. OJ & SP on this one. Rotella T6.

 

I get the Castrol full synthetic for about $11.00/qt at Advance Auto or O’reilly (US auto parts chains). They always have it. If there were another name brand full synthetic for bikes in 10/40 that were cheaper I’d buy that. I’ve been riding bikes and changing my own oil for too many years. I’m not a rider who can tell the difference between oils nor have any of my bikes seized/died prematurely due to oil issues.

 

Last week Amazon had a deal on a 6 pack of Castrol Power 1 4T 10W-40 Full Synthetic......$51 ($8.50/qt). Now it's back to its regular price of $65.

 

What it comes down to, is to change the oil at regular intervals along with the filter, use the manual as a guideline and whatever your preference is. Use a name brand oil that meets or exceeds the specs from the manual. Pay what you think is reasonable and what you think different oils are worth. It is a personal preference and you need to decide for yourself.

I have used Castrol since I can remember in my cars and motorcycles and never had a problem. That is just what I use. I dont think it is better or worse than anything else, it meets spec and people are creatures of habit. You use what you like. I also think that you should stick to one brand and weight as not all of the oil is drained on an oil change, and you would be mixing brands with different additives and/or weights if you switch up all the time. Again, just my opinion. Review any oil thread here or anywhere else and you will get 1,000 different opinions.

For a $15,000 machine, a difference of $10 for a once per year or twice per year oil change is not that much in the long run.

My dad taught me many years ago that the things that kill an engine are heat and friction. Manage both and your engine should last many miles. I think it is still good advice.

 

THIS!

 

As I change my oil every 5000km I don’t worry too much about getting the absolute best oil as long as it meets the triumph specifications.
If I only changed it every 10,000km I would probably fork out the money for the good stuff.

 

For a $15,000 machine, a difference of $10 for a once per year or twice per year oil change is not that much in the long run.

Yup! Though I just doubled my motorcycle population and don’t mind buying an extra change or two when I buy.

As I change my oil every 5000km I don’t worry too much about getting the absolute best oil as long as it meets the triumph specifications.
If I only changed it every 10,000km I would probably fork out the money for the good stuff.

Yeah, I’m less worried about “the best” and more about “what’s good enough to never be an issue down the road.” Oils meeting or exceeding OEM recommendations, at… (checks receipt from dealer…) less than $21.99 per quart…will be good going forward. Anyone know if dealers will usually take a return on oil? Asking for a friend…

But since I’m looking, I opt for current reasonable spec. If a manufacturer is still developing/testing and hitting the new specs, I’m happy. If everyone else is hitting MA2 and SP, why drop to MA and SN? Then the facts that I don’t change my oil that often (more than mfr recommended but less often than 3k mi) and while I’m not racing, I’m very rarely nursing my throttle…I prefer landing in that better-to-best range. After that, its price, and if the difference were $10/year, then I’ve already destroyed those savings in the time I’ve spent poking around instead of changing the oil and riding…but if I’m an idiot and double or triple my cost for one change and then do that on two bikes, well, no thanks.

Anyway, hopefully someone here finds that wish list link useful next time they need to pick up some oil (or compare prices to O’Reilly’s / Napa / AutoZone…

 

Tracking all the input on the oil... what oil FILTER are you all using on your Triumphs? I have a 1200XE and a Street Scrambler 900 (both are 2022 models).

 

OEM. Designed for and in spec with your engine. Also, as stated, support your dealer.

 

For me - Wix. Mostly because I can get them quick and easy on Amazon or sometimes the local auto store if I call ahead. The Ducati is the only bike I ever owned where I couldn't find an appropriate Wix filter.

 

I change oil and filter every 5k miles.
OEM Triumph filter. Have two on the shelf and when one is used I buy another.
Third party filters aren't much less $$$ and for a few extra bucks I'll support my dealer.

 

I have two K&N 204 filters sitting on the shelf so I'll use them. They are made in Thailand, probably in the same factory as a Triumph OEM filter.

 

Maybe, but the Triumph filters won't leak because there's no nut tack welded on which BTW resulted in K&N recalls and "lubed" rear wheels, BIG eyeballs, and soiled shorts.

 

Alright, I'll take a ride on the Rotella T6 bandwagon...and there's an AutoZone $25 visa rebate ending tomorrow if you buy a 2.5 gal bottle of T6. So ($62.99−$25)/320 ozs is 11.9 cents/ounce, which beats Amazon's $22.99/1 gal or 17.9 cents/ounce. Off to AutoZone, I guess.

 

Or, just walk into Walmart.

 

My reservations about using Rotella in bikes has been will it work and play well in primary drives, transmissions, or wet clutches and will there be problems with the stator assemblies and wiring.

There were problems with stator insulation deteriorating when using non HD approved oils in the primary drives. That's why I don't use Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W50 Full synthetic. It is formulated for use in an engine not necessarily in a primary drive, clutch, or transmission. Not that it won't work but that it might cause a problem.

I may be a sucker in believing that the manufacturer's engineers know what they are doing when they are specific in oil recommendations setting aside financial advantages to the manufactures.

Triumph recommends Castrol Full Synthetic 4T 10W40.
My dealer recommends Castrol Full Synthetic 4T 10W50 because we get some 100+ days in the summer.

I'd use Mobil 1 4T 10W40 without reservation in a more temperate climate and you can buy it @ Walmart

I chose Castrol Full Synthetic 4T 10W50 and use Triumph oil filters and my Speed Twin seems happy with both. It uses literally no oil between oil changes and doesn't smoke.

 

Twinsisin, you beat me to it. I was just looking for that as I knew it was in the manual.

I am also right there with you on the K&N oil filter. I cannot bring myself to use one as I would always be worrying about that nut on the filter. I already have to worry about all the nuts driving cars.

IMHO, why use an aftermarket filter that was designed to generally cover several different bikes of different manufacture when you can use one that is designed for the bike? Unless the filter fails (ahem, K&N), there are other factors such as filter media type and amount, the folds in the filter media, cardboard vs metal ends on the media, bypass valve spring tension, o-ring seal, capacity, etc. Yes I have read my share of oil threads for bikes and cars.

From K&N's website on the model 204 oil filter, it fits:

2025 Honda CB1000 Hornet 1000 All Models 2025 Honda CBR1000RR-R Fireblade 1000 All Models

2025 Honda CBR600RR 599 Non-US Models 2025 Honda CRF1100L Africa Twin 1084 Non-US Models

2025 Honda CRF1100L Africa Twin Sport 1084 Non-US Models 2025 Honda Forza 350 330 All Models

2025 Honda Forza 750 745 All Models 2025 Honda NT1100 1084 All Models

2025 Honda X-ADV750 745 All Models 2025 Triumph Bonneville Bobber 1200 All Models

2025 Triumph Bonneville Speedmaster 1200 All Models 2025 Triumph Bonneville T100 900 All Models

That is a pretty broad range of engines and bikes.

Now that we have another, fully disputed oil thread that started out as a price inquiry, there will be different opinion posted every minute.

 

@ND TIGGRR

There's an old saying that I can't remember where I heard but it rings TRUE...

Universal anything works equally poorly in most applications.

I'm confident that design characteristics of all those vehicles that K&N says their 204 filter fits vary dramatically. Just cause it fits doesn't mean it meet the manufacturer's specs.

On another note... it amuses me that people who spend $10k plus on a motorcycle will seek out the cheapest oil and oil filter they can find.

 

oil thread that started out as a price inquiry, there will be different opinion posted every minute.

Next different opinion: this started as a note to a price comparison resource I had slapped together, in case anyone else found it handy. We collectively went dutifully and dropped into debating the merits of brand X vs. brand Y.

I'm confident that design characteristics of all those vehicles that K&N says their 204 filter fits vary dramatically. Just cause it fits doesn't mean it meet the manufacturer's specs.

On the filter front, I'm willing to put some stock in the fact that a company like K&N, which is probably over 50% brand name, has nevertheless researched, understood, and invested into making better filters than the good/enough that most OEM suppliers need to put together to get their contracts. Probably the same tier 2 manufacturers that make FRAM, Wix, etc., but I do trust OEMs to have stronger standards for the filters that will carry their name, so I'll pass on FRAM, Wix, and house generic brands in this case.

But if K&N are going to maintain the brand they've built, I don't think it's just based on a logo. So I'll grant them the benefit of the doubt and understand some prior issues or recalls, which are likely due in part to the fact that they manufacture orders of magnitude fewer units than FRAM, Wix, etc. I'll also trust they've done the right thing through recalls, root-cause analysis, process improvements, and continued product development. But in the end, I've got no strong allegiances or preferences on filters, and the OEM, K&N, and HiFlo are all fairly similarly priced, so I'm good with any of them on my bikes (and my car).

 

Next different opinion: this started as a note to a price comparison resource I had slapped together, in case anyone else found it handy. We collectively went dutifully and dropped into debating the merits of brand X vs. brand Y.



On the filter front, I'm willing to put some stock in the fact that a company like K&N, which is probably over 50% brand name, has nevertheless researched, understood, and invested into making better filters than the good/enough that most OEM suppliers need to put together to get their contracts. Probably the same tier 2 manufacturers that make FRAM, Wix, etc., but I do trust OEMs to have stronger standards for the filters that will carry their name, so I'll pass on FRAM, Wix, and house generic brands in this case.

But if K&N are going to maintain the brand they've built, I don't think it's just based on a logo. So I'll grant them the benefit of the doubt and understand some prior issues or recalls, which are likely due in part to the fact that they manufacture orders of magnitude fewer units than FRAM, Wix, etc. I'll also trust they've done the right thing through recalls, root-cause analysis, process improvements, and continued product development. But in the end, I've got no strong allegiances or preferences on filters, and the OEM, K&N, and HiFlo are all fairly similarly priced, so I'm good with any of them on my bikes (and my car).

Contracted filter manufacturer meet the specifications of the company that hires them or they lose the contract.

K&N wants to cover as many applications as it can with the fewest SKUs. That's where the money is. That is how to maximize profit in aftermarket manufacturing 101.

Do you really think that all those engines that K&N says to use the 204 filter on have the same oil filter design specifications? If you do then have another glass of that K&N Kool-Aid.

 

@jtho

So if one engine manufacturer in K&N's broad 204 fitment specs relief valve tension at say 3lbs and another at say 6lbs How does K&N accommodate both specs without not meeting the specs of one or the other?

Does K&N arbitrarily decide that the engine that wants 3 lbs can be happy with 6 lbs?
What about all the applications in that list where their spec is between 3lbs and 6 lbs?

We're just talking about ONE specification for an oil filter.
What about each manufacturer's specification for media type, media volume, and media filtering capability?

Universal products work equally poorly in most applications because the aftermarket filter manufacturer generalizes all the specs and comes up with a product that meets the "average" of specs of their intended applications while usually meet none of the the specific applications specifications.

I'm not specifically picking on K&N because all third party manufacturer so the same thing but K&N's history of leaking welded nuts is reason enough for me to avoid using their filters.

I find that locally K&N 204 filters cost a dollar less than a Triumph OEM filter at my dealer.
To me a dollar isn't worth the time and bandwidth this thread has taken.

 

Likely the history of over zealous tightening of the oil filter. I've never had a KN filter leak but I have bought used bikes where the filter was probably tightened with an impact wrench.

 

I switched from Castro to Mobil 1 FS 10w40 at 2000 miles. I change O & F every 2000 miles. Now at 8500 miles. Engine runs cooler, quieter and shifts are much smoother. 2022 Speed Twin. Frequency may be overkill but I don’t care. I have the time, the money and it’s fun.

 

you has my vote govner!