The hot setup are EBC organic pads on the rear. EBC FA146HH double sintered on the front. Don't forget to use some light sandpaper on the disc to get rid of the previous pads residue. This is the combo that I've been using for years on my two T100's. Plus they do last a long time, unless your hard on brakes. All for under $80 - $90 USD.

 

I have the EBC floating front disc and sintered pads on my 2008 Bonneville. The front brake feels… exactly the same, actually. The pads I’d change but I wouldn’t really upgrade to the floating disc unless the stock one is due to be replaced.

 

Fred... you're on the right track to "optimizing" the front brake... as much as it can be... Bottom line... it's a simple two piston sliding caliper system... and has limitations...

As you are doing, you can get it to work its' best... for what it is. As has been stated else where on the thread, the floating rotor is not a revolutionary upgrade.... worthwhile if the oem one needs replacing and/or you need a fresh swept braking surface...

Here's a couple of tips that might help out...

The upgraded brake lines are a good move. I went with the Spiegler lines and they are definitely an improvement over the oem lines. I replace my brake fluid every two years-ish... I've found that the quality lines and fresh fluid makes the biggest difference in brake feel and stopping power.

Be sure that the caliper sliding pins are clean, smooth and well greased and that the boot seal are in good shape and pliable. Also make sure that the brake pad pins are clean and smooth.

Makes sure that the caliper pistons are free of gunk at the seal area and that the pistons move freely. I did a rebuild of my rear caliper as the pistons had pitting on them and weren't moving freely. I found a rebuild kit with stainless pistons for around $75... was an easy rebuild... getting the old pistons out was the most difficult part.. and even that wasn't bad, as I was trashing them anyway... The trick is to pump the pistons out a bit before you disconnect the brake line... DOH!!

I know you don't want to do a caliper upgrade... and I get it... but... I sourced the Honda 3 piston CB1000r caliper from a buddy that had an extra... and I have to say... I like it a lot... a definite improvement in over all stopping power without losing the ability to trail brake into corners... It lacks the strong initial bite that some multi piston brakes have... which is just fine with me... but it's very progressive in its' stopping power... I'm pretty sold on the upgrade... even though you do have to lose the bottom fender stay... which isn't really a problem....

I hope this helps out some...

Tom

 

Thanks very much for sharing the knowledge. Much appreciated.

The entire braking system is getting a full refurbishment over winter. I am collecting all the bits including wheel bearings and seals. While the wheel is out, front forks also getting an overhaul and progressive springs to match the new Hagon shocks fitted a few months back. By next spring, the bike should be about as well prepared as it gets.

Thanks again.

FB

 

Thanks very much for sharing the knowledge. Much appreciated.

The entire braking system is getting a full refurbishment over winter. I am collecting all the bits including wheel bearings and seals. While the wheel is out, front forks also getting an overhaul and progressive springs to match the new Hagon shocks fitted a few months back. By next spring, the bike should be about as well prepared as it gets.

Thanks again.

FB

just a suggestion here on suspension upgrades... as I've been through them all... If you are going to replace the fork springs... and carrying a wide variety of weight on the Bonnie isn't a concern (ie: basically just you on it.. and maybe some gear occasionally), I'd recommend getting single rate springs for your weight... the preload adjustable fork caps work well with the spring upgrade, especially if you do vary the load on the bike. Fork emulators are another good option on the upgrade pyramid.... but... and you just knew there would be a "but" in there... if you want the ABSOLUTE BEST front suspension that you can get, working with the Bonnie forks... the Matris fork cartridge kit is the way to go... I rank it among the very best upgrades that I've done... I wish I'd done it sooner... but that's another story... for another day... =;-)

Tom

 

Oh and just to add..... Anyone in the UK who wants to change out EBC brake pads over the winter, Demon Tweeks currently have some very good prices on the sintered pads. Less than £20 a set. Cheap postage too. Could be worth buying a set for the shelf.

The EBC MDS601LS floating disc I found on eBay for £122 and free postage. Widely sold by Norman Hyde and many other places for considerably more £££.

FB

 

Swap the front MC with one from a Rocket 3. Same style as the 07, but with a larger piston. EBC or galfer brakes...

-paul

 

Thank you that's really useful to know. So, 1" handlebars and a bolt on replacement? If you don't mind, are there any particular model years of R3 master cylinder that are known to bolt on?

Thanks again.

FB

 

I too am curious What Rocket III master is a bolt on.

 

I have a twin disc front end with 280mm discs and Brembo (BMW R1100) four pot calipers that one day I am going to need a suitable 1" bore master cylinder to fit! Would be very handy indeed if there's a Triumph one available that fits with the 2007 Bonneville T100 throttle and switch gear.

 

My 2 cents. I run EBC Wave Rotors front and rear. These are not floating rotors. They are a little lighter than stock. The only reason I replaced the originals was they were simply worn out. Rotors are stupid expensive for this bike. I was fortunate I found the EBC new stupid cheap on Ebay.

There is nothing wrong with the OEM rotors. The OEM supplied pads are semi-metallic. Significant improvements in brake feel and performance can be made by upgrading the pads. EBC makes a quality product. But there are a plethora of other options available. If you dont like the feel of a Semi-metalic Pad, try a different compound of pad. Depending on the brand the compounds of these vary. Some bite hard early. Some bite hard late. Some need a whole lot heat to bite. The more aggressive the compound, the harder they are on the rotors. I need Rotors to last 100,000 miles. I need pads to last at least at long as the tire. Price does not dictate performance or wear. All Pads sold in the EU and the US must meet a minimum standard. I have bought " Bikemaster" pads for $15.00 with $45 Gaflers in the box. If you buy a brand that is repackager, you have no idea whats in the box. I run Ebay Caltric on the Triumph and Honda, stupid cheap and the performance meets my needs. My Harley Davidson Softail is a different story.

The Rocket Scientists at HD outfitted an 800lb Softail with the same tires and brakes as a 600lb Sportster. The brakes absolutely sucked. Riding solo was like riding with a 200lb passenger. OK....let's get the alleged best pads available...$140 for Lydall Pads front and Rear. No significant improvement. Brakes feel "funny" when it rains. A dual disc conversion is out of the question. Arlen Ness offered a big brake conversion that used the OEM Caliper. A Floating Rotor kit with relocation bracket. $500 later I have a front brake that works but occasionally "knocks". I know this common complaint of floating rotors. I can live with that. The first time I ride in the rain I apply the front brakes and the bike will not stop. I sail halfway through the intersection. I get Arlen Ness on the phone...they point fingers at Lydall. Lydall never answers the phone. The problem has to be the pads. I order a set of MID-USA pads..the brake block doesnt clear the rotor buttons. Run up to HD and buy set of OEM pads. Now the bike stops.

 

Thanks for the ongoing interest, DUCKMAN. The new EBC floating disc I ordered is from an eBay seller and much cheaper than buying from any of the aftermarket Triumph parts outlets. Together, the EBC sintered pads and EBC floating disc cost me just over £140 for the set. Cheap really (UK prices, always expensive due to the tax). Would be much more costly if bought from a Triumph after market shop.

I figured rightly or wrongly that fitting a new disc with new pads would give me the best outcome without the complication of changing calipers and stuff. There is a limit to how much I will put into the standard brakes. I have a brand new set of Maxton/Ceriani replica forks, I am slowly but surely getting the bits together to build a bolt on complete front end with twin 280mm discs and four pot calipers. There's more work to do on that but that's ultimately what's most likely to be the end game on my T100.

That addresses both the poor quality front suspension and the weak front brakes in one go. Quite a bit of work to build it, but I am in no rush. The bike isn't going anywhere.

 

Another vote for a front rotor upgrade. I replaced mine with a Galfer floating rotor and sintered pads about 20,000km ago. The rear was not, for me, worth doing... for the job it has, it's plenty. The Galfer kit was very reasonably priced and bolted right up with great results. Everything else seemed to offer steeply diminishing returns.

 

Thanks. The new disc and pads are on the shelf now waiting for winter when I do the front fork progressive springs and wheel bearing change. Then it will be next spring before the fully refurbished front end gets it's first outing.

 

What are the benefits of Maxton/Ceriani replica forks? I have never seen them before

 

Fully adjustable compression and rebound damping and are set up with springs to suit the bike, rider and riding style. They are period correct for Bonnevilles of the 60 and 70's so they look the part. They are actually made in Canada to original Ceriani design. Maxton resell and service them in the UK.

First glance don't look much different to the cheap standard Hinkley Bonneville forks but carry twin 280mm discs and Brembo four piston calipers. It's not a cheap option (in fact far too expensive for a Hinkley Bonneville really if you bought all the bits for that purpose). I wouldn't really recommend it unless, like me, the forks and brakes are surplus left overs from another project! They are lying around and won't get used unless they go on the front of my T100.

Like this, but I would mount them will calipers behind the forks -

 

brakes on the Hinckley

your bike has brakes?

 

Almost. A bit like real brakes but not as good.

 

The M/Cylinder casting is basically the same on the early Rocket III as the Bonneville so are a straight swap. Sorry but I'm not sure which years but the first couple of years for the Rocket for sure.
The Rocket is 14mm bore, the standard Bonneville is 11mm. The early Speedmasters with twin discs use a 1/2'' bore.
I have the 4 piston Brembo kit on my 2002 T100, the kit came with a floating disc. I originally installed a Rocket M/C but it was too much, leaden feel to the brakes. I now have an early Speedmaster M/C which works fine. The Rocket M/C is in use on my America with a 6 pot Berringer caliper and works well.
The way to tell which M/C is which is that there is a number cast into the mirror perch part of the housing, reads 11, 14 or 1/2.
Hope this helps.

 

Thanks that helps a great deal and I feel a bit more confident looking at this. The castings are the same? Then I can buy a 14mm master cylinder overhaul kit for a R3 master cylinder and have the 11mm master cylinder bored from 11 to 14mm. Yes?

 

Don't know if it's quite that simple. Finding a R3 M/C might be simpler.

 

Thanks. I will look out for a 2007 14mm R3 M/C. I will have to overhaul it anyway for it to be safe. I can then determine if the T100 and R3 castings are the same. It is quite likely the case, but yes, for what a used M/C costs, I will look out for one.