Out of balance tire... Or something up front is loose or crooked. Sometimes a new tire could be wonky and out of shape or something.

 

Tire bead not completely seated.

 

Get the front end off the floor and remove the brake calipers. let the tire settle and mark the sidewall at the bottom. Rotate the tire to 3,12 and 9 o'clock positions and see if mark always goes to the bottom. If it does tire is out of balance. Look at sidewall above bead, may be line all around the tire. Should be same distance from rim all around tire if tire seated correctly. Hope this helps.

 

Check the headstock bearing.

 

Could be as simple as a bind in the forks, and that's super easy to test. Push down on the forks and see if it's a smooth operation. When mine was sticking, I was getting head shakes galore.

 

I have heard or read that forks might 'bind' but, I left the thoughts behind.
What causes forks to 'bind'. I have my thinking cap on but assuming the axle nuts and spacers are reassembled and tightened correctly, I cannot understand the problem.

 

Forks generally bind when they’re either too close or too far apart.

Any blemishing/witness marks on the expoed section of the wheel spindle/axle showing where the moveable leg was originally positioned indicating this could be the cause?

 

Forks generally bind when they’re either too close or too far apart.

Any blemishing/witness marks on the expoed section of the wheel spindle/axle showing where the moveable leg was originally positioned indicating this could be the cause?

Not that I can see. everything went together nicely and seems to be in the exact location as before.

 

Tension in the triples or in the axle nuts, my Thruxton RS came this way and as soon as I flagged the forks they fixed it via loosening and tightening.
That said serious trauma to a forks via a 100 plus headshake on a track can twist the forks in the clamps requiring the same remedy.)

 

Same tires as before?

 

If the front has a flatter profile across the center, that'll definitely do it and it will only get worse as it wears.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I jounced the front end on the floor and there does not seem to be any binding. Next chance I get I will try Smf895's method for checking balance. Other than the shake between 50-60 the bike rides fine, and it only shakes if I let go of the bars, I can otherwise keep it steady. I will likely have a different shop rebalance the tire if that seems to be the issue. Steve Ford, the Tires are different but not by much. I went from the tire the bike comes with factory (Pirelli Phantoms) and went to the Pirelli sport demon. I purchased the tires online from Cycle Gear and brought them into their store to be installed and balanced.

 

I jounced the front end on the floor and there does not seem to be any binding.

Loosen the fork leg PINCH bolt, NOT the axle nut, and jounce the front end a few times.

Carefully get off then tighten that pinch bolt. See if the problem is solved.

Also, check the air pressure in both tires. Might try increasing a few PSI from factory setting.

 

ok, I did a basic balance test it seems ok but a finer imbalance could still be present. I then took the wheel back off and checked that everything was happy. I reinstalled the axle and torqued to 65nm. Then the clamp bolt at 22nm. Reinstalled both calipers at 21nm. Spun it off the ground as well as a suspension jounce on the ground. Everything seems to be happy. Nothing seems bound up or sticky. I am going to go on a canyon ride later and will update if there is any difference.

 

ok, I did a basic balance test it seems ok but a finer imbalance could still be present. I then took the wheel back off and checked that everything was happy. I reinstalled the axle and torqued to 65nm. Then the clamp bolt at 22nm. Reinstalled both calipers at 21nm. Spun it off the ground as well as a suspension jounce on the ground. Everything seems to be happy. Nothing seems bound up or sticky. I am going to go on a canyon ride later and will update if there is any difference.

Did you pump the forks before you tightened the pinch bolt?

 

You have spoked wheels? Could be some of the tube is caught under the bead. Lift the front wheel off the ground and spin it to see if the tire runs true.

 

You're not the first with this problem and those tires.

Google Search

The best suggestions seem to be up the tire pressure (try around 37 PSI up front) and snug up the steering stem bearings.
If it still wobbles and the rim is straight, the bead is seated correctly and it's balanced correctly I'd say go to a different brand of tires. I've used nothing but Michelins since around 1993 with good results on various bikes.

 

So I did a short canyon ride and it still does it after being certain that there is no binding and all is well in the front end. I will take the wheel in next week to a trusted shop and see if its out of balance or if something is going on with the tire. I'll report back their findings.

 

Was it ok before you had new tyres fitted.

 

Yes, no issues at all.

 

I would ask them to sort it....unless you dont trust them.

What bike is it...does it have tubes?....if so could have twisted one.

I wonder if real wheel alignment could do that?

 

How many miles on the new tires did this start right away? How often do you Scrub your tires in? The fork pumping and alignment are important and actually in the shop manual as procedural for front tire replacement. As a pre check before every ride I look at tire pressure and I run my hands over my tires treads. You’ll find out a lot by doing this. The crown on the road leads to uneven wear and recognizing this is important. Scrubbing tires in reduces life but eliminates scallops and uneven wear and warms the tires up for a better ride. Just my .02. If all those are right, then try scrubbing your tires in, especially if you haven't done it yet, it's one of the first things I do with new tires during the first heat and cool cycle of the initial ride. There's a whole break in period routine I follow before I trust a new tire, and I use a similar modified routine each ride to be sure they'll perform as I'm used to them performing.

 

I would guess that this is a wheel bearing issue. Get some Allballs wheel bearings and you’re problem is solved

 

My 2022 Street Twin was doing the same thing . It stayed in the shop 5 weeks till I called customer service . The next day the dealer called and said my bike was ready . They told me that they adjusted steering head bearings and re balanced front wheel . They don't like warranty work!

 

I’d like to suggest your checking the alignment of your rear wheel (I believe you had both tires replaced). I’ve done 15 or more wheel R&Rs and had a couple of times where a wobble occurred at around 80 mph, and properly setting the rear wheel’s alignment resolved the issue.
Rather than depending on those dots near the adjuster, I’ve found an alignment tool like this: Chain Alignment Tool - Motion Pro
to be extremely effective.
Hope this helps!
-Sparky

 

Following this thread as i seem to have the same problem even after trying all of the above and it still seems to shake

 

Morning OneTireFire, I own a 2017 T120 as well, and had a bad head shake when I bought the bike used about a year ago. It had 6k miles on it then with the OEM tires. I've replaced the old tires with Conti Attack 3's, also installed the OUTEX tubeless kit. Head shake has all but cleared up, only notice very little on deceleration. I will check the head bearings soon, maybe when I relocate the rectifier!? Hope that helps, ride safe, and enjoy your T120!

 

Jounce Definition & Meaning - Merriam-Webster Hey, I just learned a word. Never heard of "jounce" before!! Thanks. I think I'll go ahead and use it in various conversations and contexts.

 

I had a similar problem with my T120. Thought it was a tire, forks, triple clamp, etc. Turned out that there was a small ding in the rim

 

I had a 2006 Sportster that I bought used a few years ago. First bike after a few years of not riding. Slow speed handling was not too good. I put it on the lift to check the steering head adjustment. It was tight so I set it to specs. It developed the same symptoms you are describing. It appears that the shop I bought it from tightened up the steering to mask the weave. I checked runout on the front wheel both laterally and radially, both were pretty good. I did find a small low spot in the rim in one small area. The bike had evidence of a tip over but it must have been a bit more than that. Another used wheel cured the problem. You might have something similar or an out of round tire or not seated on the bead correctly. Good luck.
kk

 

As the title says, between 50-60mph if I let go of the bars they shake back and forth like a car steering wheel would with out of balance tires. I just had tires put on and balanced so I’m thinking they didn’t balance them properly.

The symptoms of an out of balance car wheel aren't the same. A bike wheel will hop or shake fore and aft/up and down. It also gets worse the faster you go whereas, low speed wobbles go away over a certain speed.