Replaced?! Just bend it back when you're done!

 

It's a belleville type washer, and it applies a preload to seat the sprocket on the end of the shaft. It also has good locking characteristics and vibration resistance.

I'd buy a new one every time.

 

It is just a tab washer, with no spring tension. Even if it was a belville, you could use it again.

 

I hate to differ with you, but it most definitely is a belleville washer for Ripple's bike. The same Triumph part number, T1180181, is listed for all three 1050 models - 2005, 2008 and the new 2011s.

I have one sitting in my garage in the Triumph packaging, ready to go on the bike. It's a pronounced dish shape, maybe 1mm thick, but it rises >5mm off the datum sprocket face.

Any thoughts on how to make that nut stay put?

Get everything clean - squeaky clean - and install with a new washer per the manual. If there's any 'fretting' or raised areas on the sprocket dress them flat with a stone. You should buy a new nut, too, if you've done any miles on it with a loose nut.

^^ No. 29! ^^

(apologies to the RAT member who originally posted this)

 

I have a new one on order but decided not to wait.

The sprocket nut was loose, only being held in place by the lock washer. I found other postings where riders have had the same experience. 132Nm is not enough for a nut that size.

I bent the old washer in two new places. I think it'll be fine. I started out taking photos of the process to make a how to. Forgot I was doing it about 15 minutes in.



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Funny this should come up, I found my front sprocket nut loose again, after having tightened it back in 2010.



Back then I used the same washer folded in a different spot. Obviously didn't hold the nut in place.



This time around I too am looking for a new washer and also am trying to figure out of there is anyway to keep the nut from loosening again... I have a feeling the washer ends up spinning with the nut and ends up finger tight.



Any thoughts on how to make that nut stay put?

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Brute force

 

The friction will wear the washer through no matter what...not on the knocked over tabs, but on the splines, which hold the washer in place relative to the sprocket.
Replace it..don't make the same mistake I did...you've got over 100HP rubbing up against that washer, which is about 1mm thick.

 

I'm about to replace sprockets and chain. Any links for that washer?

 

Dealer should have them..they're about $12 for a pack of three.

 

Yea it's cheap. I don't think the new washer is going to help. Granted it won't hurt either.

Presumably we all had new washers on from the get go. And we've got free spinning sprocket nuts.

A Teflon locking nut would be good I think. I'd avoid over tightening the nut though. There may be a good reason why it's only 135. I'm not going to pretend I know it and will stick with the torque spec.


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I am going to have to check on mine before this season starts .

 

I check mine regularly now DG....my nut had worked loose and the washer had worn to wafer thin or nonexistent around the spline area....my driveshaft had stripped just a bit...the nut would no longer torque, but luckily for me a new nut and washer fixed it....so glad I caught it in time.

 

New washer doesnt work on older bikes. Just did my front sprocket two days ago('01) an had ordered what I thought was the correct part from Bike bandit. The washer I got had no tabs to bend over the nut, as the previously posted pic shows. ?? Am I missing aomething? Also, my sprocket was far from loose... After GENTLY using an impact wrench to get the nut off, I needed a bolt puller to get the sprocket off! No way that thing was coming off on a ride. Also only one of my lock tabs was used originally because it sat at one of the corners of the nut. So I think I'm ok. Anyone have any tips on how to torque the nut down? I hate to put 100 ft lbs. of pressure on my new chain to hold the sprocket


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The "dish" folds down on one side of the nut. I did mine on two after reinstallation. Here's a pic of mine before the change.

It doesn't take much to get a 100ftlbs on the nut since its so big. If you don't have a torque wrench, just tighten it down good. But don't overdo it.

My wrench has a long handle so maybe that's why it doesn't feel like that much. Try using a breaker bar.


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I would have never thought of that.... Thanks so much for the pic. Nut isn't torqued down yet, anyone have any thoughts as to wether i should use old with the tabs or the new flying saucer washer? Sill pissed I didn't understand the replacement.


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Also! Domed side in or out? I can see how this washer crushed into place would help with keeping everything in place. Lord flash-heart appears to be correct yet again.


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The washer should be appear concave after sliding it on the shaft. After tightening it fold a side in. I used really wide mouthed pliers.


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The washer should be appear concave after sliding it on the shaft. After tightening it fold a side in. I used really wide mouthed pliers.

:goodpost

Exactly per the (Haynes) manual.

 

This is exactly why I joined this forum. Thank you. New washer wins. Thanks again. I owe you a beer.


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Good thing...

Cleaning my chain last weekend, grabbed the front sprocket nut and was shocked it moved by hand. Wow. Glad I found this thread!

Here's the washer, ~$7 US

 

i guess i'd better check mine out since my S3 is used. never would of guessed this if i hadn't stumbled across this thread. thanks!