f you want to make sure the mung and metal filings that accumulate at the bottom of the fork leg are gone then disassembly, cleaning, and reassembling is the only way.

There are always ways to do a job more easily but not correctly.

 

I have a pretty strong electric pump, I'm pretty sure it'll pick up any shavings. But yeah I agree, a total disassembly would be best

 

"Pretty sure" and knowing are to different things.

Delboy is a HACK. He didn't put the towel on the gas tank when he was removing the fork caps and that is the time when the chance of damaging the tank is the greatest.

His cavalier statement that if you took your bike to the dealer they would change the fork oil the same way he is doing it is an insult to professionals who take their trade seriously and do the job the right way. If i caught a mechanic in my shop taking that short cut he/she would be rolling their toolbox out the door. He's obviously a screw-it-yourselfer.

I've had more forks apart than I care to remember and you'd puke if you saw some of what I had to clean out.

 

"Pretty sure" and knowing are to different things.

Delboy is a HACK. He didn't put the towel on the gas tank when he was removing the fork caps and that is the time when the chance of damaging the tank is the greatest.

His cavalier statement

So apart from not put padding on the tank before he removed the caps.

What else is wrong with the video on how to?

 

20 year old bike with original fork oil. I would do a complete rehab on the forks. Rubber components might seem okay, but at 23 years old, time to replace.

 

Yeah, I tend to agree.

 

Some bikes have a place to drain the oil from the forks my friend just changed the oil on his R65 Beemer and I am pretty sure that my 07 Speedmaster had drain ports as I replaced the springs and changed the oil. So if all the crap settles to the bottom and seals are not leaking why would one dismantle the forks to change the oilÉ (oil sorry French keyboard kicked in) ? Or if no drain why not used a couple partial fills and suck the crud out?

 

That's what I was thinking!

 

I'm pretty sure I don't have drain plugs on my 01, but I'll look.

 

Fork drain plugs were common 40-50 years ago, nowadays not so much.
The main problem with the "suck it out method" is that tube isn't going to go all the way to bottom, so it doesn't matter how good the pump is, there's still going to be crap in the bottom. Anyone who recommends this clearly has no idea what the insides of forks look like.
These are damper rod forks, correct? If so, the "easy" way that's not too horrible is to take the caps off, remove the fork tubes and hang them upside down to drain. Then refill with some ATF, pump them a few times, and rehang. Leave them overnight. Then refill, setting oil height correctly. Unless your bike is one of the 1-2% that comes with fork springs somewhat close to the right rate, strongly consider putting better ones in there.
Of course, a full disassembly, clean and inspection is best, but with only 12k miles the bushings are probably ok.

 

Fork drain plugs were common 40-50 years ago, nowadays not so much.
The main problem with the "suck it out method" is that tube isn't going to go all the way to bottom, so it doesn't matter how good the pump is, there's still going to be crap in the bottom. Anyone who recommends this clearly has no idea what the insides of forks look like.
These are damper rod forks, correct? If so, the "easy" way that's not too horrible is to take the caps off, remove the fork tubes and hang them upside down to drain. Then refill with some ATF, pump them a few times, and rehang. Leave them overnight. Then refill, setting oil height correctly. Unless your bike is one of the 1-2% that comes with fork springs somewhat close to the right rate, strongly consider putting better ones in there.
Of course, a full disassembly, clean and inspection is best, but with only 12k miles the bushings are probably ok.

Appreciate that!

 

After watching several YouTube videos, it looks like I have all the tools I need to change the fork oil. Considering I don't need to re build the forks since they don't leak, I think it'll be a half days work. If I had to re build them, I think I would let a shop do it. I just need the ft lbs of all hex bolts and what not. Also the air gap measurement for the fluid to the cap. Looking at older forums posts now.

 

After watching a video on doing the complete dismantle and cleaning I now understand why one cant get a tube right to the bottom of the fork, the damper gets in the way. So I stopped by the local Triumph dealer here in Ottawa to enquire how much to do the flush and refill if they do everything, wheel removal and fork removal with thorough cleaning and new fluid. $360 + tax. They would install new springs at that time as long as they were supplied because for some reason the two Canadian distributors they buy from no longer carry a variable rate spring by any company for my particular bike.

Would using a solvent of some kind aid in the simple flush and hang method or would that just be a bad idea?

 

After watching a video on doing the complete dismantle and cleaning I now understand why one cant get a tube right to the bottom of the fork, the damper gets in the way. So I stopped by the local Triumph dealer here in Ottawa to enquire how much to do the flush and refill if they do everything, wheel removal and fork removal with thorough cleaning and new fluid. $360 + tax. They would install new springs at that time as long as they were supplied because for some reason the two Canadian distributors they buy from no longer carry a variable rate spring by any company for my particular bike.

Would using a solvent of some kind aid in the simple flush and hang method or would that just be a bad idea?

360 seems excessive, I certainly will be doing it myself. I think tipping the forks overnight will get practically everything out, for my purposes especially. I hesitate to use a solvent. After emptying them overnight, I may swish a little fresh fluid around and dump it out again.

 

$360 is not excessive since they are removing and installing and servicing. I paid around $300 for my Daytona cartridge forks and I brought the forks in and drove about an hour to get there. I paid less than $300 for my original Showa shock to be serviced as well. After 26 years the bump stop rubber was disintigrated.

 

It is excessive for the poor working class

 

Owning a motorcycle is expensive whether you perform the work or by others. Especially on an older which can become a money pit.

 

That was my attempt at humor....however, I should be able to have a great machine with new parts for about 2000 to 2500 all in. I think that's pretty good for a bike with 12k miles on it!

 

Question....I got my Haynes manual in today. There's no mention of the proper fluid Level air gap for the 01 bonneville. I've seen on a few places it's 120mm. Can anyone confirm?

 

It's not a critical measurement. 120mm is fine. 110 or 130 would work ok too.
Most important thing is to measure correctly. You're measuring the distance from the top of the fork tube down to the surface of the oil, i.e. the air gap. Measured with the spring and spacer removed and the fork leg complete compressed.

 

I haven't had a Triumph fork apart yet on my 2023 ST900, but I'm thinking the internals are pretty similar to other forks. The bolt at the bottom of the fork that holds the rod in can be removed.

The method I've done on other bikes with no drain holes at the bottom of the fork, is to keep the fork in the trees on the bike and don't remove the springs or top cap. Use an impact on the allen bolt at the bottom of the fork ( you have to take the front tire and axle off the bike to get at this bolt. ). Let the oil drain out. Then you can take the top cap off and remove the spring. Don't disturb anything else in the fork. If you want you can poor some solvent down the tube and let it drain. Then put a new washer on the bottom bolt. When you put the bolt back in put some blue loctite on the threads ( helps prevent corrosion ) and tighten it up. You may or may not be able to torque this bolt at this stage and if not, install the spring and put the cap back on, then torque the bolt. Now just take the cap off and add the recommend amount of the right weight fork oil.

If installing aftermarket linear springs they have an oil level, measured from the top of the fork tube. If using the stock spring set up then just put in the recommended amount. The oil level is fairly critical as only the air inside the fork can be compressed, the oil can't compress.

If the bike is older, then I would redo the fork seals and any related parts. I recommend using impact for removing the bottom bolt, because it is very easy to strip and then you have to drill it out. Don't ask how I know.

 

The bolt at the bottom doesn't allow for all the fluid to come out. But if I were doing a complete rebuild for sure I'd remove that.

 

I had a conversation with my good friend and former art conservator about doing the drain method and using a solvent. A big part of being an art conservator is to know which chemicals react with what and what is the strongest that may be used to clean surfaces be they bronze statues his specialty or oil paintings and picture frames. He does not see anything wrong with using certain solvents especially as they are not being left to sit in the tube but used to rinse. Alcolhol could be used but his recommendation was mineral spirits used to thin the oil used as a flush, around 40%. If you are wondering what a guy that restores art knows about mechanical things he built from scratch an open wheel racing car like an old Ferrari from the 30s a Morgan lookalike with Miata engine and Corvette from end, restored a 32 Rolls and is just finishing a 1930 Phantom 2 which I occasionally help him with. So flush dont soak if you are not inclined to dismantle the whole front end and allow to drain thoroughly.
No doubt there will be doubters of the above and thats ok.