My first guess would be a bad battery. What you describe is exactly what I had happen right after I bought my 09, and after it was replaced I never had another issue (unless I left it for several weeks without putting it on the trickle charger). So, I'd start with replacing the battery, since, even if that's not the main issue, as it's a '10, it's probably not a bad idea to replace it now anyway.

The second thing I'd look at is the regulator/rectifier up under the seat in front of the rear shock. There was a recall on them, so if you have the old version, that may be your issue. The new version sits facing back so that you can see the whole, thing, but the old one face forward and was mostly hidden by its bracket. Look around and you can find plenty of threads with pictures.

 

Double check your fuses. I had a similar issue with my 09 STR and visually checked my fuses. Worked on the bike for hours testing everything and finally decided to start over. This time I used a volt meter and tested continuity of the fuses. I can't remember exactly which fuse it was, but it was a 20 amp (IIRC) that powered the headlights and the starter relay.

If it's not your fuses, check the your tip over switch, side stand switch, battery connections. You can test the starter relay by jumping the contacts with a screwdriver. Make certain that you use something insulated as you can get a jolt if you don't. Those are all of the quick and easy tests. Failing all of those tests, I'd take the battery to a local auto parts store and have it tested. Could be that the battery is dead. If it's the battery, after replacing the battery, I'd test the charging system to make certain that your R/R or stator hasn't gone bad which killed the battery.

 

What JHawkins said x2. Headlight and starter are on the same fuse, annoying as all get out for those of us doing track days, can't just pull the headlight fuse.

 

Thanks all for the help so far. I don't think the issue is with my battery, it is only two months old. Also I believe the no start when hooked to jumper cables eliminates the battery as being the cause (though I could be wrong there?). Also the R/R was replaced with the newer version per the recall.

I will double check the fuses with the multimeter tomorrow. Hopefully it's that simple, though I guess then I'd have to figure out why the fuse popped in the first place.

Here's hoping I can get it started tomorrow, it's beautiful here in Seattle currently and that bike is way too much fun to have sitting in the driveway

 

I'll also mention that on another bike that I own I recently went through this exercise. I was so frustrated because everything was testing out fine. The bike still wouldn't start and through the process of elimination I finally figured out that the starter button wasn't working. It was on my 08 Tuono and I carefully had to take apart the starter switch. The starter switch contacts looked okay - not very corroded - but a few seconds with a piece of emery cloth to touch up the contacts and reassembly and the bike fired right up. Probably not your issue, but thought that I would mention it

 

Ok latest update. Checked all the fuses with the multimeter, they do have continuity.

However, the #1 circuit (headlights and starter) has no power at the fuse when the key is on. At startup this fuse should receive power, correct? I even tried testing for power at the fuse while my buddy hit the starter button, and that didn't work either.

I also pulled the starter switch apart just in case, and it's receiving power correctly.

Any more thoughts? I'm about at wits end with this.

 

Could be a messed up ignition switch, or a chafed or broken wire leading to it. There should be power at that fuse with the ignition on.

 

I am just reaching here as I have never had either of these happen, but have you checked the side stand switch and the tip over switch to insure that they are working properly? I'd expect that you would have an indication that the side stand switch is bad because I would expect that the indicator would be lit on the dash, but not so sure about the tip over switch - although you don't mention that the bike fell over. Just reaching here at anything that I can think of. If it's neither of these, then I agree with Video Guy and it's time to begin tracing out wires to look for a break somewhere and test the ignition which is something that I have never had to do.

 

There should be other fuses that get power from the key switch. Check them all for power with the key on and off. That should tell you if it's the whole switch or maybe a broken/grounded wire between the switch and the fuse box. If all other fuses have power, it's not likely the switch.

 

I don't believe it's a side stand or clutch switch since I would still have headlights if those weren't functioning.

I don't get power to the headlights/starter fuse or the auxiliary lighting fuse. All other circuits are recieving power with the key on. I'm going to thoroughly check for broken wires tonight and hope that solves my issue.

 

This might help....

According to the schematic, there should always be power to all fuses as long as the fuse in the starter solenoid is good. Check right at the fuse box first, then work your way through the diagram until you do not get any power.

 

Any luck yet?

 

Hey thanks for posting that diagram. I had to go out of town for a last minute work trip, so I haven't been able to work on the bike yet. I am going to start by following the headlight circuit wire that runs from the fuse box to the ignition switch. I'll have to figure out how to get an ohm meter on it to check for continuity. From the diagram I believe there is a wiring harness between the fuse box and ignition so I'll find that an disconnect to stick the multimeter on.

 

@video guy: is that diagram of a 2013 street triple? i' m only asking because it says street triple WITH ABS on top, and before there wasn't an option for Abs. i don't know if it would make difference, though.


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Yep, that is a 2013, it's all I have. Hoping they didn't change too much between the years but figured it was better than nothing. Still looks to me as though power is at all fuses all the time unless the fuse in the starter solenoid is bad. Haven't actually checked mine though so I can't be 100% on that.

 

I just checked, the circuits are different.

If you don't get any power to the auxiliary light fuse and the headlight/starter fuse (should be 1&3) your problem has to start somewhere at or before the key switch.

Check the brown cable at the key switch, it should always have power since it comes directly from the main fuse.
The blue/Yellow cable runs from the key switch to the headlight/Starter fuse, no 1, and the yellow cable runs from the key switch to the auxiliary lighting fuse, no 3.
the blue/yellow cable and the yellow cable are connected through the switch with a red/blue cable.

 

Thanks for the wiring diagrams everyone, I found a full diagram of my 2010.

If you don't get any power to the auxiliary light fuse and the headlight/starter fuse (should be 1&3) your problem has to start somewhere at or before the key switch.

Check the brown cable at the key switch, it should always have power since it comes directly from the main fuse.
The blue/Yellow cable runs from the key switch to the headlight/Starter fuse, no 1, and the yellow cable runs from the key switch to the auxiliary lighting fuse, no 3.
the blue/yellow cable and the yellow cable are connected through the switch with a red/blue cable.

Ok here's what I've found so far. There is a brown wire that goes from the ignition switch to a wiring connector, connects to a blue/yellow which then runs to the number 1 fuse (headlights). The brown wire at the ignition switch has power, however the power does not reach the fuse. Also the yellow cable at the ignition switch is not receiving power. I put an ohm meter on the brown wire at the ignition, and the #1 fuse and got a beep (continuity). So I've got no idea why there's no power to that fuse. I didn't think to look at the ohm reading on the meter, so perhaps it's just a very weak connection? Another thought is maybe a wire is grounding out somewhere along the way, so there is in fact continuity but no power because of a weird grounding (though I'm not sure if it would work like that). I'm not really sure where to go from here.

 

Older schematics for the earlier triple.

 

I don't know the wire routing, but last time I lifted my tank, the harness that runs along the left side and up to the top of the air box was worn through the loom and starting to wear through the insulation on a couple of wires. Seemed like the tank rubbed hard on this spot when lifting front of the tank. I put some reinforcing tape on it with gorilla tape and it seemed to slip better when lowering the tank.

You might check for rubs under the tank.

 

Do You have continuity through your ignition switch?

 

Thanks for the help all, I can't seem to figure out what the issue is so the bike is going to the local service shop tomorrow. I've spent way too much of our already short riding season messing with this thing. I just want to ride!

I really appreciate everyone's input trying to help me figure this out.

 

Just for your future reference...here is the correct wiring diagram. I see they changed it quite a bit from your year to the 2013 models, sorry about that from my first post. I'll bet they find either a bad ignition switch, or a bad connector or broken wire coming from it.

 

No worries, thanks for the help. I will post what they find for future reference.

 

i seem to be having very similar problems with my 2010 Street Triple R just this morning.

rode the bike on 3 different occasions yesterday, all fine, no problems at all.

started it up this morning and it worked first time, but the usual couple of chugs as engine starts were noticeably slower and not as smooth as normal.

got to work, switched it off, tried to start it up again and nothing. display and headlights working as normal, starter switch is dead.

gonna try it again soon, once it's cooled down. i have had a few instances over the past year where the starter switch hasn't worked, turned the ignition off and on, and it's started up, never really thought anything of it. hopefully this is the same and it's just a problematic switch, nothing more serious.

 

I assume you checked the battery and the battery connections first. Had a BMW K1300s for a few years and we were having trouble with bad switches. When the bike was left in the sun and the switches heated up, the circuit traces on one of the internal boards would separate and te bike wouldn't start. Quick fix was to pour cold water on the switch cluster, or move to the shade and let it cool down. Eventually covered by a recall, but just wondering if the same thing happened to you.

 

turns out it was just a bad/flat battery, unrelated to anything previous. jump started it from a car first time, no problems. just rode it to a local shop and got a new battery fitted.

the guy there ran a test on it with a voltmeter, when it was revved it was reading 13.5v, he seemed to think it should be more like 14.5 and could mean the alternator isn't working fully? anyone had any similar issues, or ever run a test on their battery and had significantly higher readings?

if it's an alternator issue i might not have needed the new battery, but for the sake of £30 i figured why not replace it and remove one possible problem

 

My 2010 R also reads about 13.5-13.6 volts while running. Not great for lithium battery, but fine for standard type. As long as it doesn't get any worse........

 

ok so it wasn't the battery, same problem came back last night, battery doesn't appear to be charging. gonna have to try to book it in with Triumph sometime in the next week and let them look at it.

would the R/R be an easier/cheaper/quicker job than the alternator? or does it not make much difference at this point.