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Ais delete

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3.8K views 21 replies 8 participants last post by  mark vernon  
#1 ·
Hi there.
I have largely put up for winter and looking to tinker a bit since I won’t be riding for a while.
I bought my 22’ xe with ~500 miles and it came with a bunch of great parts that I would have wanted anyhow. One of which is THIS . I am curious if anyone here has installed this exact unit on their machine as I would like to remove some of the popping from my slash cut slip-on, cat intact bike. I have some reservation only because I do not see any kind of gasket in the kit.
thanks for the advice and info;
 
#2 ·
A lot of folks disable the SAI system by simply stuffing a marble in the rubber hose (part #5 in the diagram below) that goes between the SAI solenoid and the air box. Besides being way less expensive and much easier to install than the multi-part SAI delete kits, this also has the advantage of not needing additional resistors to prevent pissing off the ECU (since the SAI solenoid remains in place). It also has the benefit of stealth in the event you need to have warranty work done on your bike. Whereas the SAI delete kit would be visually apparent to a Triumph technician, blocking off the air intake hose wouldn't be. So no worries about denied warranty claims due to unauthorized modifications.

I did this mod on my Thruxton because I was hoping to slow the rate at which the stainless exhaust headers turn brown. I like the gold color, but with the SAI active, gold turned to dull brown pretty quickly. After blocking off the SAI air intake the header pipes have so far stayed a pleasing light gold color. The popping in the exhaust on overrun never really bothered me, and I don't notice much difference with SAI disabled. It's probably somewhat less prevalent, but it's definitely still there. Might have more of an effect if you're running an aftermarket or modified exhaust system (mine is still bone stock).

Instead of a marble to block off the airbox hose, I decided to use a rubber vacuum cap like the one shown by the second image. I know lots of people have used a marble with no ill effects, but I had visions of a slippery glass marble migrating along the length of the hose. A rubber vacuum cap inside a rubber hose is about as high a friction coefficient as you're gonna get, so I'm not concerned about it moving. And it was $0.89 at Autozone as opposed to the $5 bag of marbles from Target.

So my suggestion would be to try blocking off the SAI airbox hose first to make sure you get the benefit you're looking for. If not, removing the obstruction from the hose would take all of 5 minutes and you're back where you started. If blocking the hose gives you the result you're looking for, then you could install the high-zoot kit instead if you like that better. Or you could just leave the hose blocked off and sell the kit to someone else :)

By the way, the kit doesn't need a gasket because the reed valves (part #3) serve as the gaskets.

Good luck with whichever way you decide to go.


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#6 ·
A lot of folks disable the SAI system by simply stuffing a marble in the rubber hose (part #5 in the diagram below) that goes between the SAI solenoid and the air box. Besides being way less expensive and much easier to install than the multi-part SAI delete kits, this also has the advantage of not needing additional resistors to prevent pissing off the ECU (since the SAI solenoid remains in place). It also has the benefit of stealth in the event you need to have warranty work done on your bike. Whereas the SAI delete kit would be visually apparent to a Triumph technician, blocking off the air intake hose wouldn't be. So no worries about denied warranty claims due to unauthorized modifications.

I did this mod on my Thruxton because I was hoping to slow the rate at which the stainless exhaust headers turn brown. I like the gold color, but with the SAI active, gold turned to dull brown pretty quickly. After blocking off the SAI air intake the header pipes have so far stayed a pleasing light gold color. The popping in the exhaust on overrun never really bothered me, and I don't notice much difference with SAI disabled. It's probably somewhat less prevalent, but it's definitely still there. Might have more of an effect if you're running an aftermarket or modified exhaust system (mine is still bone stock).

Instead of a marble to block off the airbox hose, I decided to use a rubber vacuum cap like the one shown by the second image. I know lots of people have used a marble with no ill effects, but I had visions of a slippery glass marble migrating along the length of the hose. A rubber vacuum cap inside a rubber hose is about as high a friction coefficient as you're gonna get, so I'm not concerned about it moving. And it was $0.89 at Autozone as opposed to the $5 bag of marbles from Target.

So my suggestion would be to try blocking off the SAI airbox hose first to make sure you get the benefit you're looking for. If not, removing the obstruction from the hose would take all of 5 minutes and you're back where you started. If blocking the hose gives you the result you're looking for, then you could install the high-zoot kit instead if you like that better. Or you could just leave the hose blocked off and sell the kit to someone else :)

By the way, the kit doesn't need a gasket because the reed valves (part #3) serve as the gaskets.

Good luck with whichever way you decide to go.


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Thanks so much for the thorough and thoughtful reply. The kit came with a bin of oem and aftermarket parts at the time of purchase, so already paid for. I do think it valuable that I wait until warranty expires.
I will definitely try the plug/marble approach first to see if popping is reduced. I actually really like the sound, I just have concerns long term on the effects to the engine. I have heard it can cause wear to the valve train.
really appreciate the advice;
 
#3 · (Edited)
Hi there.
I have largely put up for winter and looking to tinker a bit since I won’t be riding for a while.
I bought my 22’ xe with ~500 miles and it came with a bunch of great parts that I would have wanted anyhow. One of which is THIS . I am curious if anyone here has installed this exact unit on their machine as I would like to remove some of the popping from my slash cut slip-on, cat intact bike. I have some reservation only because I do not see any kind of gasket in the kit.
thanks for the advice and info;
In the kit, the block off plates take the place of the original plates, which have ports to allow flow into the throttle bodies and nipples for the tubes from the air box. The inner plates (#3 in the instructions diagram) remain. The resistor plug in the kit keeps the ECU from sending a signal to open the solenoid valve. It looks like you can remove the solenoid along with all of the tubing. Tuneecu doesn’t disable AIS if you uncheck the AIS box. It suppresses error codes when you disconnect the solenoid from the harness.
 
#4 ·
I hope this link will open and the translation will work.
Interesting to read.

 
#5 ·
I used steel balls in the hoses on my old, carbureted Kawasaki. The SAI valve diaphram was leaking fresh air into the intake manifold so disabling it was more of a necessity than just wanting to remove it. I don't think the valve is controlled by intake manifold pressure directly with most (if any) current EFI bikes.
 
#10 ·
If I had any modifications whatsoever on my motorcycle and had to bring it in for warranty work, I would reverse them back to stock. They will look for any reason they can to deny warranty claim.
 
#11 ·
Argues for the marble approach. My understanding is that the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act requires the manufacturer to demonstrate that what you did contributed to the failure of the system your claim is about. That doesn’t mean they can’t deny, argue, or litigate the issue. My comment above that SAI injects air into the throttle bodies was wrong. It injects air into the exhaust port. So it has no effect on the fuel mixture.
 
#13 · (Edited)
Yes,i think this has an impact on the air-fuel mixture. Because the air is no longer injected into the exhaust by the valve, the oxygen sensor does not read the same mixture and the ECU therefore sends more fuel. This is also why on TuneEcu there are maps with the AIS disabled.
 
#16 ·
Thanks for the information. The oxygen sensor doesn't work when the system is open...but should I change the mapping? The mixture should still be different, even if the sensor doesn't detect it? The mixture should then be richer because there is no air injected and the sensor doesn't adjust the mixture through the ECU? Because there are maps with SAI disabled on TuneEcu
 
#20 ·
First of all, when the ECU is in open loop, the fueling is based on the fuel tables, either F based on throttle position or L based on MAP. The O2 sensor has no effect. If I was going through all this trouble, I would remove the O2 sensor and uncheck the O2 box. Unless you care about emissions, in which case you wouldn’t be disabling the SAI. Are you sure that unchecking the SAI box actually disables it, which is to say, closes the solenoid valve? I would at least plug the tube at the air box, disconnect the solenoid (if there’s a connector) and uncheck the SAI box. As for the map, there are differences between the 1050 maps with and without SAI. Not sure you would notice. Also not sure if this is directly related to the SAI as fueling is a bit different throughout the fuel table. For comparison, I looked at the Triumph Thunderbird 1600 which came out to the US in 2010 with SAI. Soon thereafter, the bikes to the US didn’t have SAI. The two maps, with and without SAI are the same. Again, you could try both maps (20542 and 20543).