I'd pull the stator. Sounds like it's goosed. You could probably have a shop test it once it's off the bike

 

It is virtually impossible to get zero volts out of the stator - even if it was burned up!
And from your resistance measurements, it appears to be fine anyway.
Are you sure you measured it with the correct setting for AC Volts?

 

You should be getting an increase of voltage when the bike is running the the stator is running.

I think the Stator is the culprit from the information you posted.

 

Hopefully checked the most simple thing first and validated Fuse 11 is good!



This is NOT a alternator and if referring to the DC voltage the first part is simply not correct.

And for the second part MOST of the information posted shows there is no problem with the stator;
and again, it is virtually impossible to get zero volts out of a stator with the resistances measured.
Even with a 'bad' stator, you will still get measured voltage and one phase is simply lower than the other two.
But zero? Pretty much impossible.
The ONLY thing that could cause 0V - if indeed being measured correctly, although suspect it's simply 'not' - would be if the rotor was bad to point all magnets had become completely detached and therefor not exciting the coils; (the rotor itself must be spinning or it would not be running). NEVER seen this on a Triumph rotor.

Most simple deduction is that the AC V is not being measured correctly.
Just from the resistance measurements - particularly the isolation one i.e. no short between any pin to ground - it suggests the stator is almost certainly OK.
Therefor the problem would be in the Rectifier/Regulator (if not the aforementioned fuse)

 

Quote :Hopefully checked the most simple thing first and validated Fuse 11 is good!

Where's fuse 11 ? mine go from 1 to 10 !
I have checked again and still getting results as in original post ... definitely using AC Volt setting on multimeter, tried two different multimeters, one digital one analogue, both measure 230V on my household supply, neither measure anything (at all) on any combination of the 3 pins from the stator connector (with the engine running, of course) .... absolutely mystifying. See pic

thanks for all replies

 

Sorry mate - was looking at a Sprint diagram I had open at same time
On yours would be Fuse #2
But that is irrelevant wrt the 0V out of stator
It would have been more helpful to see the meter in your pic

Since you are measuring ~ 1 ohm between terminals then you must have continuity through the stator.
Therefor the only way that you cannot get any voltage out of it is if the rotor is not exciting the coils.
There is one potential cause of there being 0V from the stator which would require the three wires all being fused together (yet not shorting to the case) - that is remotely possible I suppose. You measured 1.2 ohms between terminals - what do you measure if you just short test leads together?

You probably should just go ahead & pull the cover at this point to inspect both the rotor and the stator leads.

 

Quick update.... pulled the stator, looked OK to me (not fried) but a man who knows these things re-sleeved the tails and I refitted the stator and Eureka, AC volts again.
No DC out of the RR tho .. so I've ordered one of the Polaris 105C Series RRs I've been reading about wth the Triumph link lead .. waiting for it to arrive will post an update when it does.

 

RegRect arrived .. fitted .. battery charging again .. 13.68V at idle and constant up to 5000 rev. Next step is to fit a charging indicator LED to give me a warning if this ever happens again.

Thanks for the advice and help folks

 

Update to date - RR fitted was described as Polaris 105, stamped with SH775 on the body of it ... I believe it to be a 'series' device. I took the bike for an hours run last week after half hour the battery stopped charging.....
When I got home I checked with my meter, no DC volts from RR, AC volts from Stator, varying 25 - 60V with engine revs.
Ordered new RR .... ? This one .... anyone know if it should work with my 03 955i tiger ??
What happens is .. AC in, as before, DC output between 13 - 15V with nothing connected to RR output, ie at the terminals. Once i connect it to the bike, the voltage across the battery (with the bike running) is around 11.88V and increases to maybe 12.2V if I rev to 3000 or so.
This doesn't seem too healthy to me ... I'm not sure i really understand whats going on .... any thought ????
Andy

 

... What happens is .. AC in, as before, DC output between 13 - 15V with nothing connected to RR output, ie at the terminals. Once i connect it to the bike, the voltage across the battery (with the bike running) is around 11.88V and increases to maybe 12.2V if I rev to 3000 or so.

Sounds more like stator failure
Once again, check the continuity between the stator terminals and also check for isolation (i.e. is NOT short) between any terminal and engine ground.

Not sure what you mean about "re-sleeved the tails" ???? But given you had previous here, you should probably inspect it again - especially if you are NOT measuring short to ground.
i.e. your stator is either shorted (you will measure this to ground) or open - bad connection from one of the windings.

Can't tell anything from the pic of your purchase - the actual link would have been better. The image does look like an OEM R/R however.
There are a ton of fake Chinese-copy regulators on EBay that are not worth buying

 

One extra thing ... I connected a multimeter set to DC Amps in line with the RR output and was reading 6A at idle, increased to 7A with increase in revs. Doesn't seem a lot for a RR spec'd to 35A, is it that the stator isn't generating enough under the load of the RR and battery / bike being connected ??

 

The load is predominantly from the bike's electrical system plus some additional current for charging the battery
The main load (with both headlights on) is going to be somewhere around 14-15A or so (10 for headlights and about 3 for fuel pump plus some other smaller loads)
Those numbers (coupled with fact it regulates properly with no load) again suggest the Stator is the problem.