The OEM battery on my T120 seems to have reached the end of its life cycle. Does anyone have any suggestions for a replacement that they've been happy with? I had a Yuasa on an older bike that was pretty good. Thanks!
Mawni
I replaced the OE battery on my 2016 T120 with an identical unit. There was no guesswork as to whether or not it would fit, and it's about the lowest priced option out there.
I'll just replace it at the five-year mark without waiting for it to go bad.
I'll just replace it at the five-year mark without waiting for it to go bad.
I’d recommend avoiding the Duracell brand at Batteries Plus. I bought one to replace the factory Yuasa, and it died after 3 months. Had to argue to replace it under warranty and they said it was too small for the bike and they wouldn’t warranty it again.
I’d stick with the factory Yuasa battery - good life and reasonably priced.
I’d stick with the factory Yuasa battery - good life and reasonably priced.
+1 just installed new Yuasa in my 2015 Scrambler - replaced factory original after 8 years - no brainer 
Cost twice as much, last 10 years, voltage is constant - it never drops below 12.5 volts output, , loses 1% of charge per month. weighs a pound an a half, can mount upside down if you want!
Lightweight Lithium Batteries and Chargers - Experience The Future of Power (shoraipower.com)
Lightweight Lithium Batteries and Chargers - Experience The Future of Power (shoraipower.com)
I replaced my Yuasa original battery with exactly the same model. Original was 6 yrs old and was still working fine, but I replaced it just in case. Cheap, reliable....
Yuasa YTX12-BS is a perfect OEM fit. Amazon sells and ships these. A few years ago they were $61. Now they are $79.
PS: The Yuasa YTX12-BS comes dry with an electrolyte pack, so you have to fill and charge the battery.
I would go for GEL type - it's more expensive but it beats all other lead types in performance:
Highest cranking power
Slowest self discharge - only needs a maintenance charge every 6 months when in storage
Can withstand deep discharge without losing capacity (sulfates built up)
Has the longest lifespan
Often more capacity in same size as normal and AGM batteries
No gasleak that ruin the soundings.
Withstand vibrations the bedst do to the gel stabilizing the internal components.
The higher price tag is actuality more than fair and and will pay it self back fast.
This is not my opinion but facts that can be looked up and verified 😉
Highest cranking power
Slowest self discharge - only needs a maintenance charge every 6 months when in storage
Can withstand deep discharge without losing capacity (sulfates built up)
Has the longest lifespan
Often more capacity in same size as normal and AGM batteries
No gasleak that ruin the soundings.
Withstand vibrations the bedst do to the gel stabilizing the internal components.
The higher price tag is actuality more than fair and and will pay it self back fast.
This is not my opinion but facts that can be looked up and verified 😉
Plenty of options....not a sponsor.
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I've replaced all the batteries in my motorcycles with the AntiGravity lithium, including my '17 Thruxton R. Lightweight and they keep a charge forever. Never had an issue with them. If you need to put it on a charger you will need a charger specific to the type of battery you get, but still worth it to me.
The lithium batteries are more expensive but they last way longer. I was going through AGM batteries about every 2-3 years. Bikes stored inside, kept on a trickle charge, made zero difference. I've had the AntiGravity battery in my Thruxton for 5 years now and it can sit for months and still start like it was a brand new battery on the first push of the starter.
Plus I like the extra set of terminals for wiring up accessories.
The lithium batteries are more expensive but they last way longer. I was going through AGM batteries about every 2-3 years. Bikes stored inside, kept on a trickle charge, made zero difference. I've had the AntiGravity battery in my Thruxton for 5 years now and it can sit for months and still start like it was a brand new battery on the first push of the starter.
Plus I like the extra set of terminals for wiring up accessories.
batteries MUST be kept CHARGED + buying a dry battery that dont age until activated is best IMO + after activating a dry battery it needs to be FULLY charged before use for a long life! my 18 T120 has the OE battery + gets charged regularly with my 10+ YO CTek muse 4.3 charger that charges everything i own including the 13 Victorys OE battery!!!
Would I switch to Lithium technology?
No and for a lots of reasons but primarily because of the complexity of preserve capacity and battery life.
Can it be used and is there benefits?
Yes - A low self discharge and high power density reduces the weight significantly compared to a Pb battery.
Also high cranking amps reducing voltage drop when high power consumption is needed (starting the engine)
Here's a few of the drawbacks and conditions that will either -
- Price tag - still way to expensive caused by "new" technology (although it's been around for a decade)
Very low capacity - if you have a bike that once in a while dos'nt start right away, you will run out of power quite fast and if so, remember to stop trying starting the bike at 20% capacity at the latest (1) Going under 5% might and under 2%, certainly destroy the battery (2)
A short-circuit starter motor will cause the battery to destruct (3)
- On a "12V" Lithium battery, the voltage must not get under 10,5V (2)
This is normal controlled by the built-in protection circuit - if the battery is equipped with the circuit - but means in practice that the battery capacity is lower than stated.
- Can't be used in a temperature under - 20° C or over 60-80° C (2 and 3)
- Should be kept within a state of 20 to 80% charged (1)
It should Ideally be hold in a state of 60% charged to obtain maximum lifespan - around 300 to 500 charges.
- Your regulator on the bike and the built-in overcharge circuit in the battery - if it has one - is set to obtain a 100% charge (1)
- Should never be charged to full capacity unless you plan to use the battery (start the bike) right away or within a day after a full charge (1)
You just might get lucky and keep the charge within the 20-80% all the time and it will probably last you 5-10 years if you don't start the bike to often.
In the end - the choice is yours 🙂
No and for a lots of reasons but primarily because of the complexity of preserve capacity and battery life.
Can it be used and is there benefits?
Yes - A low self discharge and high power density reduces the weight significantly compared to a Pb battery.
Also high cranking amps reducing voltage drop when high power consumption is needed (starting the engine)
Here's a few of the drawbacks and conditions that will either -
- shorten lifespan of the battery (1)
- destroy the battery within a short period of time (2)
- or destroy battery instantly and potentially make it burst in to flames (3)
- Price tag - still way to expensive caused by "new" technology (although it's been around for a decade)
Very low capacity - if you have a bike that once in a while dos'nt start right away, you will run out of power quite fast and if so, remember to stop trying starting the bike at 20% capacity at the latest (1) Going under 5% might and under 2%, certainly destroy the battery (2)
A short-circuit starter motor will cause the battery to destruct (3)
- On a "12V" Lithium battery, the voltage must not get under 10,5V (2)
This is normal controlled by the built-in protection circuit - if the battery is equipped with the circuit - but means in practice that the battery capacity is lower than stated.
- Can't be used in a temperature under - 20° C or over 60-80° C (2 and 3)
- Should be kept within a state of 20 to 80% charged (1)
It should Ideally be hold in a state of 60% charged to obtain maximum lifespan - around 300 to 500 charges.
- Your regulator on the bike and the built-in overcharge circuit in the battery - if it has one - is set to obtain a 100% charge (1)
- Should never be charged to full capacity unless you plan to use the battery (start the bike) right away or within a day after a full charge (1)
You just might get lucky and keep the charge within the 20-80% all the time and it will probably last you 5-10 years if you don't start the bike to often.
In the end - the choice is yours 🙂
Thank you for your effort to give us your well-reasoned thoughts.
Not like I'm rich, nor do I 'desire' to spend twice as much on a LiFeP04 battery and due to erratic charging cycles need to buy a new battery every couple years, but .... 'available power' over 12 volts at all times is the main issue for me, not shortened life or double-price.
Give my ECU 12+ volts and rapidly spin my motor a couple 3 revolutions for a couple 3 times at the most and I'll likely never be stranded due to bad battery. That's worth the extra hundred every couple / 3-4-5 years to me.
Of all the shortcomings you mention, the idea of the battery catching fire is the most worrisome. I will look into buying some flame-proof underwear!
There are always ways to spend more money. I'd contend that Yuasa is pretty much the standard of the industry, and they have a reputation to protect.
My 2016 came stock with the Yuasas. It now has seven years and 40K miles on it. Because of weather and a skin graft I didn't start it for over a month and didn't have a tender on it. I walked out this morning and it fired right up as if I'd ridden it yesterday. I've never had a motorcycle battery last this long. They always have gotten replaced when they failed. I'm thinking I'll follow the advise above and go ahead and replace it. I've usually followed the if it's broke don't fix it rule but geez...that's a long time for a bike battery...let's hope the new one is as reliable.
For interests sake I replaced the Yuasas with a Shorai lithium in my 98 Sprint Sport two years ago. The T-300s are extremely sensitive to battery voltage and they go through batteries every 10K or so even though I keep mine on a tender. The Shorai is, so far at 15K, holding up better than anything I've ever used before.
For interests sake I replaced the Yuasas with a Shorai lithium in my 98 Sprint Sport two years ago. The T-300s are extremely sensitive to battery voltage and they go through batteries every 10K or so even though I keep mine on a tender. The Shorai is, so far at 15K, holding up better than anything I've ever used before.
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