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1972 Triumph Tiger OIF Crappy Air Filter. Options?

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2.5K views 39 replies 15 participants last post by  Freakmaster  
#1 ·
This is the same TR6 that was being discussed in "1972 TR6 Tiger, Right Cylinder Hotter than the Left." That problem seems to have been fleshed out. However the new problem is the air filter design. I live on a dusty, rural backroad. The air filter boxes do not seal properly and I'm looking for options in fixing that. However I do not want to discard the stock look and feel of the bike.

The filter boxes on the '72 TR6 (and Bonneville I assume) have 2 metal inner housings in a sort of clamshell configuration around the frame backbone (oil tank). The actual elements are rearward, behind the backbone. There is a plastic cover that supposedly seals the elements and the housing using one bolt that actually appears to be offset from the center. This allows massive leaks all along the seams and front of the air filter housing.

I have tried using silicone sealer to discreetly seal the seam between the cover and the metal air box frame....no dice. Forward of the elements and where the air box loops around the frame, there is a sort of chamber leading to the carb on both sides. I took some thick mesh chicken wire and fashioned a sort of barrier on either side of the area where the carb opening is. There, I fashioned some oiled air filter foam as a sort of stop gap to make sure that air reaching the carb is at least filtered by something. (See photos)

Has anyone found a better way?
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#2 ·
Find a pair of the alloy outer covers on 71 bikes. They do seal very well but hard to obtain a used pair now. You might find some in the USA at autojumbles but over here the prices are rising.
I did buy one of those plastic covers in 1979 after i broke an alloy one and no new alloy ones obtainable and i also found it not very good.
 
#3 ·
I had a similar problem on one side of my 73 Tiger 750. I couldn't get the cover to seal and tried sealant to help but to no avail.

Eventually I used a very hot hairdryer to soften the plastic whilst fitting the cover. With a bit of time and patience I eventually got the groove in the cover edge to fit over the air filter housing all the way round. I bolted it up and applied a bit more heat then left it to cool. It seems to have largely retained the fitted shape and is now much simpler to refit when required.
 
#4 ·
Hi Bob
I know you wish to keep the look of the original bike but as Rambo has said unless you can find the alloy outer covers then sealing the originals will test your patience,especially if like Rambo you don't plan to run the filters .These leaks may also be contributing to your previous issue making one cylinder run hotter than the other . Personally I ended up fitting the retro plastic panels and POD filters . My bike runs really well whilst also shedding a few pounds so win,win
 
#7 ·
There are no alloy outer covers in that sale. They tend to be very scarce as they normally get crunched in a fall off. I have 4 covers in the garage, 3 left and 1 right but it has taken about 20 years to find those good ones. I keep a set painted so i can replace any that get petrol on the paintwork.
 
#9 ·
Here is one for the right side for a single carb...
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@bob_3020, Try giving Ed Zender at Morrie's Place in Ringwood Illinois a call, he might have a set...
I just finished a complete rebuild of a 77' TR7RV and gave up trying to configure a different air filter set up. There's just not enough room to work with. The OIF tube is too close.
But definitely, the metal covers will solve your issue, I found a set on eBay a few years ago for under 60 bucks....
 
#12 ·
several sets for sale pn ebay right now

 
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#13 ·
Hi, I see the alloy air filter covers are getting pricey. At last swap meet year ago, I saw several air boxes, only one alloy side cover. I bought it. Was end of day & seller was packing up. Was really a Harley swap meet. I got air box casting & one cover for $12. We was mad, but not mad enough to pack it up again. I got lucky!
Just like the swap meet air boxes are much more common on eBay. Where did the covers go?
The alloy cover doesn't have groove. It is slightly larger & slightly tapered. So the ID of cover is interference over air box. With some small gaps. So you'll need to find a way to seal alloy cover also. Factory said use thick heavy grease.

One of the problems with the plastic covers is they were overtightened. You can see this & it crushed the filter itself. Of course owner was trying to get the front part to seal.

Here's what I did with my plastic cover. I got some sheet stainless from Ace Hardware. Cut & bent into hooks. Attached to cover with screws & nuts. Peened screw tip over nut so they cannot fall off & get sucked into motor. Bought springs from Ace & cut them to right length. I install springs with needle nose pilers. I got thin self stick weather strip from Ace as well. cut it narrower lengthwise & stuck int in groove. I had to reform the groove in a few areas. This has worked quite well for some years now. As I said prior the foam is good for at least 2 years.

I don't know if your filter covers can be saved. Personally I'd get alloy ones. Fit them with some sort of seal. Felt tape comes to mind. Glued on with yellow 3M adhesive. Since I had the spare air box it was easy to check the fit from the inside. Sealing the gaps on alloy cover is not so simple as putting foam tape in a groove.

My plan with the alloy ones is fill the louvers, add Filler fin to rear edge & cut the Bonnie area off & weld in aluminum sheet to make the streamlined.
Don
 
#15 ·
you can buy stick-on door weatherstrip at a hardware store. put it on the mating surface, then put washers on the central mounting bolt until the cover can be snugged down tightly against the washers without deforming the cover.
 
#16 ·
Hi Happyfeet, Thanks for pointing that out! Dementia must be kicking in. I pulled the cover from the shed. The cover isn't tapered it has a "shoulder" that seats on face of air box. In this particular case, the cover has about 1/16" rock on the air box using a flashlight I can see light coming around the corner of gap where it rocks.

Saying that I have no idea what year the box & cover is. I don't even know if they were off same bike. I could be there was an alloy cover that had the groove.

That brings up a new thought. You could use bluing or the like. Then sand air box to match cover lip. Then use thin self adhesive felt tape wrapped around edge of air box. This would probably give good seal & last a long time. But I'd have to look closer at the overlap of shoulder.

Triumph had a good concept with the air box, but didn't follow through with proper sealing.

Here's some photos.
Don
 

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#19 ·
I was at the Eurojumble Today and looked around for alloy covers. I found quite a lot including a box of brand new BSAS 71/72 ones in Bronze and green paint. The prices were around ÂŁ35 each but some sellers were asking ÂŁ65 for 2 covers and the 2 centre sections. I saw about 15 in total but mostly T120r type with the holes for the 2 carbs. There were some for the TR6.
 
#21 ·
hit up the swap meets. people still think the OIF bikes are ugly stepsisters in lots of places, and bits are inexpensive.

or do what i did and use 1976 honda 360 sidecovers, which are a perfect fit and cost $20 a pair. they even have a cutout for the right side hinge. i have a spare set i bought just in case i buy another OIF.
 
#23 ·
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no recent puctures, sorry. im using large K&N filters atm, and so took them off. but i was planning on putting em back this weekend, so maybe i ll have some images.

its not a direct fit, and is peculiar to my condition. the zip ties hold the wiring. once mounted, these are seamless.
 
#26 ·
Its a long way from USA. Southampton in the UK. Its popular for the Europeans to come over on a ship as seen by a coach full arriving and i guess they will stay for the other sale at Beaulieu which is very near. There were a few European sellers but it must be expensive to bring a large van over here. Of course, if they buy parts in person, it avoids all the customs and taxes.
There are more containers of old parts coming here recently from the USA, mostly old rusty Japanese 2 strokes but British bikes are also being found.
One low cost bike was a 400 mile 2 year old Benelli 400 at ÂŁ2000 and it looked brand new
 
#28 ·
They are the same covers. The BSA frame and T 120 are the same apart from different lugs for mounting the engine.
2 types, one for twin carbs and one for single. Single carb has a central cut out in the inner boxes and no large holes in the outer.
twin carb has no hole in the inner boxes and large holes in the outer for the two rubber inlets to the carbs.
BSA was made in 71/72 then it all went bad
 
#30 ·
Earlier in this thread I posted a couple of Service Bulletins. Biggest problem I have had with the OIF airbox covers is the PO cranked the fasteners down to tight and distorted the covers.

I did replace the original air filter with a 71/72 open style

K
 
#31 ·
I was having the worst time attempting to position the filter elements and the outer covers. The filters always moved. Because mine have sheet metal in the center, I used nuts to hold the filters in place. Of course, that required trimming the center "post" on the outer covers by the thickness of the additional nut.

I think that the outer covers are now reasonably well-seated, though I'll probably use silicone sealant around the edges before I'm finished.

Bob
 
#32 ·
Hi, On my '73 Tiger which has plastic covers I ended up putting cut down foam door/window gasket material from hardware store in groove of cover. Then added 2 springs across the front of cover. I has worked pretty well. If/as needed you can apply thin foam to the air filter face as well. You need to replace the foam gaskets every 3-4 years.

The factory set up is rink a dink to say the least. The round original 1970 version will fit many bikes without modifications, Then install retro side covers. Of course that changes look of bike.

There is a principle of carbs, how the vent & air filters. Carbs that vent float bowl into atmosphere need air filter that basically doesn't change air flow as it gets dirty. The air filter was oil bath or wire/gauze. Paper air filters were introduced, which if high quality clean air better than oil bath or wire gauze. It was soon found with a paper air filter, as they get dirty the level in float bowl would change due to the pressure differential. They vented float bowl inside the clean air part of filter. You can see the vent tube in many older carbs. Sometimes just a hole though.

Paper elements can work in Triumphs, but wire/gauze in better choice as the wire gauze has very restriction as they get dirty.

Don't think all brands of filters are made the factory thickness. The thickness can vary almost 1/4"! How does that effect sealing. Of course something won't seal.

The filters in photo were obviously crushed. But were they too thick? Or was filter cover & housing too thin.

My observation is many covers on OIF bikes are overtightened. Why? Most often in an attempt to get cover to seal around edges. It is a very weak design.

The plastic covers on T140 are even worse in my observation. Have a huge tendency to warp also. Often if never overtightened to front will warp out & allow dirty air into filter housing. The inside of filter housing will have some oil & fuel deposits, but should NEVER be dusty or have dirt. That is a sign the cover is leaking. The plastic is extra flimsy, but we have to deal with what we can get.

A ring of clips or screws on the perimeter would be ideal. Factory didn't do that.

On my '73 which have never ever been overtightened the front warped out. I fabricated some tabs from stainless steel screwed to cover. I riveted screw over should nut come loose it can't fall off. The other screw hole is threaded into thick plastic with loctite. Should it fall out it will only leak air, not get sucking into carb.

Here's a few photos of my covers fitted on bike. The springs are strong enough to pull the warped cover tight. The heat of riding has allowed to the cover to bend tight to the air box. Springs all around would be ideal. But not very practical. Looks matter too. The springs in front don't look silly or out of place. Needle nose pliers unhooks the springs for servicing. A spring above carb & below carb. This will still work on Bonnies. Harder to hook on springs by far.

The '71 & 72 allow covers are a direct fit. Of course look very different. Alloy is much stiffer. But still would benefit from springs. The alloy can be exactly filed to fit the housing. You'll still need a seal of some sort. Thick grease from the bulletin doesn't cut it.
Don
 

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