Thruxton TEC Cam Break in/ bedding in period - Page 2 - Triumph Forum: Triumph Rat Motorcycle Forums
Water Cooled Twins Technical Talk Technical Talk for water cooled Triumph Twins.

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post #11 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 02:30 AM Thread Starter
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road report of an impatient fellow

Well after the straw pole on how to treat my new cam, I decided to throw caution to the wind after having already clocked up 160K's of a boring run in period. I decided to give it the bash and for @Hybrid81 this what happened when i stuck her in sport mode and gave her the flogging she desired.

And boy did she desire it. in 6th gear she was building revs so fast i thought the clutch was slipping, but a quick flick of the eyeballs to the speedo showed no slip.. she is building pace..and from 140 km/h up to 200 km/h she just went straight there, faster than a New York City Handbag snatcher!! Now i am watching that speedo head up to 210 Km/h and thinkin only 10 more k and i am gonna get her OTC woot..then I looked over in the same instant and tach was reading 7500... so i buttoned right back and just grinned. Me and "Eileen" 4Eva!!!

So after that i am thinking i might need taller gearing cos the way this engine runs now I am searching for 7th Gear.

So that is the upside..Downside.. fuel economy, she fair sucked up the juice during our little outing. But hey, i am happy as heck with results so far.

2016 Triumph Street Twin - Ace cafe dress up - Techbikeparts Cam and Xpipe (has gone to a new home) =>Triumph Thruxton S Jet Black 2017 - Meerkat X pipe - De snork - TEC 303 Cam

Last edited by Kiwi Dave; 08-17-2019 at 02:35 AM.
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post #12 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 03:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadydaverave View Post
I agree you should be able to just run it as normal straight away, only reason I can think of for running in a new cam is that if your cam has higher lift the valve springs could benefit from slowly adjusting to the new lift. dont want to stress them out with high revs when theyve not been opening to the higher lift before
If the cam has higher lift?

The inlet lift on the R is 10.3mm.
Is the S the same?
How much more lift can we have before we hit the piston?
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post #13 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 05:35 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tricolour View Post
If the cam has higher lift?

The inlet lift on the R is 10.3mm.
Is the S the same?
How much more lift can we have before we hit the piston?
Ok, @Tricolour the new cam has 0.5mm extra lift..so not much increase there.. the real difference is going from negative overlap to positive. There is a post from a guy called Dyno John over on Triumph talk who advises the following:

"The cam specs in the service manual are unusual to say the least for the New thruxton & Thruxton R. This is the first motorcycle I have seen with negative camshaft overlap. The intake valve opens 5 degrees after top dead center and the exhaust valve closes 4 degrees before top dead center. That's 9 degrees of negative valve overlap. The manual says these timing specs are taken at 1mm valve lift. Cam duration is 216 degrees for the intake and 215 degrees for the exhaust. Intake & exhaust valve lift is 10.3 mm (.4055") for the intake valves and 9.2mm (.3620") for the exhaust valves.Several very technical papers published by MIT, General Motors indicate that the main purpose of this cam timing is emissions related. It is effective at reducing cold start emissions. The Thruxton lift figures are pretty high for stock factory cams with 4 valves per cylinder and I expect this is where Triumph made up some of the HP they lost using cams with 9 degrees negative overlap. "

2016 Triumph Street Twin - Ace cafe dress up - Techbikeparts Cam and Xpipe (has gone to a new home) =>Triumph Thruxton S Jet Black 2017 - Meerkat X pipe - De snork - TEC 303 Cam
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post #14 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 08:19 AM
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@Kiwi Dave Youíre making me think I need this......
I swapped my front sprocket ages ago for the 17t front from a T120. I think itís just enough to make it rev a little less in 6th without loosing too much off the line. T120 rear sprocket is 5t smaller, so about equivalent to 1 2/3 bigger front sprocket. You could try that or even go with T120 gearing front and rear. Personally Iíd just do the front first and see how you like it. Costs about $40 and only moves the axle about 3 mm so no issues with chain length.
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post #15 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 11:53 AM
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@Kiwi Dave

I’m glad to hear the upgrade went well! Sounds like the top end has increased dramatically. Now that you’ve reported back I’m debating breaking the warranty to make the move. I probably won’t, because truthfully I’m really happy with the current performance of the bike, but this will definitely be something for the post warranty instal list.

I’d make the switch to 17t. I did that week one and I’ve just left it in sport mode ever since. Runs smooth and strong. Made me enjoy the bike a whole lot more. Never need to change modes, the wheel won’t come off the ground when you gun it in first, and it’s great to cruise right around 4000 rpm. For instance, 4000rpm is 50mph in third, about 63 in 4th, etc. so your at speed but still on boil. Best mod I’ve made to this point hands down.
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post #16 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hybrid81 View Post
@Kiwi Dave

Iím glad to hear the upgrade went well! Sounds like the top end has increased dramatically. Now that youíve reported back Iím debating breaking the warranty to make the move. I probably wonít, because truthfully Iím really happy with the current performance of the bike, but this will definitely be something for the post warranty instal list.

Iíd make the switch to 17t. I did that week one and Iíve just left it in sport mode ever since. Runs smooth and strong. Made me enjoy the bike a whole lot more. Never need to change modes, the wheel wonít come off the ground when you gun it in first, and itís great to cruise right around 4000 rpm. For instance, 4000rpm is 50mph in third, about 63 in 4th, etc. so your at speed but still on boil. Best mod Iíve made to this point hands down.
@Hybrid81 and @CanberraR3 thanks for the encouragement and advice.. i will try the 17T front cog next I think, you guys have ended up as pretty good mates over the internet. Appreciated
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post #17 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-17-2019, 11:32 PM
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Ou

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kiwi Dave View Post
Ok, @Tricolour the new cam has 0.5mm extra lift..so not much increase there.. the real difference is going from negative overlap to positive. There is a post from a guy called Dyno John over on Triumph talk who advises the following:

"The cam specs in the service manual are unusual to say the least for the New thruxton & Thruxton R. This is the first motorcycle I have seen with negative camshaft overlap. The intake valve opens 5 degrees after top dead center and the exhaust valve closes 4 degrees before top dead center. That's 9 degrees of negative valve overlap. The manual says these timing specs are taken at 1mm valve lift. Cam duration is 216 degrees for the intake and 215 degrees for the exhaust. Intake & exhaust valve lift is 10.3 mm (.4055") for the intake valves and 9.2mm (.3620") for the exhaust valves.Several very technical papers published by MIT, General Motors indicate that the main purpose of this cam timing is emissions related. It is effective at reducing cold start emissions. The Thruxton lift figures are pretty high for stock factory cams with 4 valves per cylinder and I expect this is where Triumph made up some of the HP they lost using cams with 9 degrees negative overlap. "
Dyno Johnís post is where I read these details.
I was confirming that the new cam wasnít going to Ďworkí the valve springs much more than the OEM cam when running at high rpm.

As an aside I have a 17T for my R.
I will give it a try and see how I like it.
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Last edited by Tricolour; 08-17-2019 at 11:46 PM.
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post #18 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-18-2019, 07:04 PM
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I am happy with the way my Thruxton S is with the Meerkat and open pipes it performs all good for me, yesterday coming home late afternoon from out in the country visiting friends I still took the back tight twisty roads home and really pushed it to its limits with power, speed and handling, so to me it works all fine with me and it gets up to the limiter pretty quick.
But over time more things will come out for these 1200s I am sure of that, but for now I am happy with the way it is.

Ashley
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post #19 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 02:58 AM
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@Kiwi Dave - Sounds great -did the extra top end come at the expense of low/mid range, or is it just more pull all through the range?
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post #20 of 35 (permalink) Old 08-19-2019, 06:38 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by kdxandrew View Post
@Kiwi Dave - Sounds great -did the extra top end come at the expense of low/mid range, or is it just more pull all through the range?
More pull all the way really, umm it just gets there quicker.. I got up to 210km/hr in a linear fashion, but then was pulling 7500rpm...now i guess most thruxtons will do 210km/h but i just got there a bit quicker than before.... so that is why i am thinking maybe a 17 tooth countershaft sprocket. In reality the advantage of the cam with standard sprockets seems to be quicker acceleration..i am not sure it can add much to top speed as you are well into the red line area at 210 km/hr (210 Kilometers per Hour =130.48795 Miles per Hour - IF your speedo is accurate) and i wouldn't want to be putting a leg out of bed by trying to take it to 8000rpm just to get it Off the Clock.
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2016 Triumph Street Twin - Ace cafe dress up - Techbikeparts Cam and Xpipe (has gone to a new home) =>Triumph Thruxton S Jet Black 2017 - Meerkat X pipe - De snork - TEC 303 Cam

Last edited by Kiwi Dave; 08-19-2019 at 06:52 AM.
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