Grand Prix 250
Main Motorcycle: 2018 T120 Triumph
Join Date: May 2019
Location: South Middle Tennessee
Other Motorcycle: 2006 750 Vulcan Kawasaki
You don't have to remove the rear fender or even the license plate.
Put it on the center stand and strap the base of the stand to some convenient point on the front end of the bike so that the center stand doesn't fold up when jerking things around. Hook the strap to the front wheel, front forks or engine guard and snug it up sufficiently.
I remove both mufflers so they don't get banged up. The only difficulty is to poke a thin smooth straight slot screwdriver between the right pipe and the outer shield to slide the muffler back on. It just happens to be the right on mine. Might be the left or neither on other bikes.
Using a 1 1/16" box end wrench on the axle nut or a tight fitting adjustable, you can get the axle nut off by just removing the right passenger peg and just moving the right muffler down and out of the way without removing the right muffler completely.
The left muffler has an added bracket in front of the rear brake near the left front of the tire which is there to add resistance when the center stand slams against the rubber pad underneath the left muffler. It requires two 12mm wrenches to remove the bolt. The muffler won't drop down or be removed without removing that bolt.
Then remove the rear brake... two 14mm bolts and bungee it forward to the shift lever or something else.
The left passenger peg must be removed to remove or drop the muffler down.
When removing the 12mm nut from the peg bolt, at some point the bolt will begin to spin. You can't get an Allen wrench in it, but no worries, just apply downward pressure on the peg and it will bind the head of the bolt to keep it from spinning.
If you want to remove the mufflers completely, you must loosen the Allen head bolts at the joints, Then just pull on them while wiggling them around and they'll slide right off. When putting them back on, it helps to loosen the other smaller Allen bolts which are just in front of the clamp bolts at the joints. Careful the Allen bolts strip easily when tightening too much.
It helps to fill the space between the tire and the floor with a thin piece of plywood, metal or something to get the axle out and to get it back in later.
There are metal spacer bushings on each side of the wheel which plug into seals in the wheel. Careful they don't fall out. If they do, just clean them, apply a thin film of grease and plug 'em back in.
You'll need a 12mm and a 13mm open end wrench for the chain adjustment.
Oh yeah, probably the first step is to remove the chain guard.
I just did all of this the second time a few days ago. I took off the 39 tooth sprocket and installed a 42 tooth. When I had the wheel back on, the chain was too short and having no extra links, I put the 39 tooth back on and then put it all back together. Fun!
Last edited by Roadworthy; 07-29-2019 at 02:00 AM.